Looks like Iron to me?

[greenspiritz]

OK, so i potted these up the other week with (Biobizz Lightmix)

Pots are relatively light now, so no over watering and no feed or stimulants have been fed.

I think i know what the issue is, but would like a second opinion for verification

So...

I tested the PH of the water that has been stood for a few days, and the PH was 7.5, they have had 2 watering's with this PH. Once when potted up, and allowed to dry, then again 2 days ago.

Would that be the culprit so quick and early on, i read that some Indica plants prefer a more acidic soil like 6.2?

This is slowly showing up on some of the others also.


I have had this mother nearly a year and she was potted in (Westland - Jacks Magic) and that had a more acidic environment and never showed up and Iron deficiencies

Temps: 23c - 29c
RH: 40% - 50%


I'm thinking my solution would be, to water with a PH 6.3 - 6.5 from now on until they show signs of hunger.

I was suppose to flip to 12/12 today. But i think i might have to hold out till this resolves

 

[greenspiritz]

How long has this problem been going on? Few days
What STRAIN are you growing? Grand Daddy Purple
What was the establishing technique? (seed or clone?) Clone
What is the age of your plants? 7 weeks
How long have they been in the soil mixture they are in now? 7 days
Were they in the same mixture when they were seedlings/smaller plant? If not, what mixture were they in before? yes
How Tall are the plants? 5-6 inches
What PHASE (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in? Veg
What Technique are you using? (SOG, SCROG etc) SOG
What size pots are you using? (Include how many subjects to pot) 1 litre then 5.7 litre
What substrate/medium are you using? What brand of soil mixture are you using?(percentage of perlite, vermiculite...etc?) Biobizz lightmix
What brand Nutrient's are you using? none
How often are you feeding? every 2-3 days
What is the TDS/EC/PPM of your nutrients used? 1.2EC thats already in the soil
What is the pH of the "RUN-OFF"? Not tested
What method of pH test was administered? Using Strips? pH pen? PH Pen calibrated 1 week ago
How often are you watering? ever 2-3 days
What size bulb are you using? 400w HPS
How old is your bulbs? New
What is the distance to the canopy? 28 inchs
What is your RH Factor? (Relative Humidity) 40 - 50
What is the canopy temperature? 28c
What is the Day/Night Temp? (Include fluctuation range) 23c - 29c
What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.) 5 inch RVK
Tell us about your ventilation, intake exhaust and when its running and not running ? No intake, 5 inch RVK running 24/7
Is the fan blowing directly at plants? Slightly, just above plants
Is the grow substrate constantly wet or moist? moist
Is your water HARD or SOFT? 170PPM
What water are you using? Reverse Osmosis (RO)? Tap? Bottled? Well water? Distilled? Mineral Water? Tap water
If using tap water, what is the ppm/EC/TDS of the water right out of the tap?(Only if you have a tds pen) 170PPM
Has plant been recently pruned, cloned or pinched? no
Have any pest chemicals been used? If so what and when? Pyrethum 5EC 10 days ago
Are plant's infected with pest's? few thrips

 

[greenspiritz]

It would be awesome if someone could give me their option whats going on here? Thanks

 

[Cvh]

Start feeding your plant or transplant to a hotter mixture.
Biobizz Light Mix is to weak to provide for a plant of that size.

 

[greenspiritz]

Thanks for chiming in, Are you sure dude? Biobizz light mix is set at 1.2EC and they say provides for 4 weeks, they rooted in 1 litre pots and i transplanted them into 5.7 litre pot only 7 days ago.

They are only 5 inches tall?

I thought the 2 waterings with a PH of 7.5 would of been the culprit for an Iron deficiency so early on. I read that PH should be 6.5 for iron and anything over 7 will start to lock out nutrients like iron and such.

What's your thoughts guys?


Edit: I sprayed them today with a few drops of Ionic Cal/Mag and Formulex with a PPM of 475 @(500TDS) or 0.95EC.
Just waiting for them to dry a little further and i'll water them PH6.5?

That's the plan i'm thinking?

 

[Cvh]

I always ran into deficiencies when using Biobizz Light Mix past the seedling stage. It's a very Light mixture. You can compare it to a cutting/seedling soil you can get at a regular garden store.

Try to feed it some Fish Mix (or any other fish hydrolysate) and it will bounce back.

 

[greenspiritz]

Ahh right, i use chem nutrients you see. These are my nutrients that i have to hand

Ionic Soil - Grow & Bloom
Ionic - Cal/Mag
Formulex - Growth Technology

These are the only nutrients i have with Iron



This was my plan from week 1 flower: @500TDS scale

Week1 - 600 - 1.2EC
Week2 - 650 - 1.3EC
Week3 - 700 - 1.4EC
Week4 - 750 - 1.5EC
Week5 - 800 - 1.6EC
Week6 - 850 - 1.7EC
Week7 - 900 - 1.8EC
Week8 - Flush

I would reach week 5 to check for over fertilising and go from there and see if increase was needed, the strain is Grand Daddy Purple and can range from 8 - 11 weeks so i've read

 

[greenspiritz]

Still progressing rapidly this, starting on another 2 or 3

 

[greenspiritz]

I've just finished 50 litres of feed for everyone, this is what I've added.


200ml - Ionic Soil Grow = 60% Dose
10ml - Ionic Cal/Mag = 20% Dose
6ml - Buddha Tree Flower Burst = 50% Dose
80ml - Rhizotonic = 30% Dose
2ml PH Down

PH 6.4
PPM 500 = EC 1.0

 

[greenspiritz]

77 views, c'mon guys surely there's some others that could help me with my situation please?

The last thing i want to do is go throwing nutrients at them, and making it worse and having to flush them all, like an old saying.

"Treat it like a cake, you can add to the cake, but you can't take away"

 

[greenspiritz]

There seems to be some improvement developing, each blade is returning green towards the leaflets.

How long does it take to reverse an iron deficiency, i'm in day 3 flower now and hoping it resolves before it has an impact on them.

I have fed them

Total solution 50 litres_________________

200ml - Ionic Soil Grow = 60% Dose
10ml - Ionic Cal/Mag = 20% Dose
6ml - Buddha Tree Flower Burst = 50% Dose
80ml - Rhizotonic = 30% Dose
2ml PH Down

PH 6.4
PPM 500 = EC 1.0
Temps 18c - 28c
Humidity 40% - 50%


And I have been foliar feeding with half a cap of formulex and 10 drops of cal/mag twice a day in 1.5 litre pressurised sprayer. PPM475 = 0.9EC

 

[TanzanianMagic]

What size pots are you using? (Include how many subjects to pot) 1 litre then 5.7 litre

1. It looks like iron lockout from underwatering.

Saturate the medium thoroughly when you do water.

2. Pot size - 1 gallon per foot of expected growth

5.7 litres is 1.5 gallons which is ok if the plant naturally grows to 1.5 feet. If it's naturally more like 3 feet, you'll need at least 3 gallons.

Most descriptions of Grand Daddy Purple's height say it's 'medium' or even 'compact', which isn't very helpful in estimating pot size.

3. Light Mix

Also, any Light Mix is good for using as the basis for a supersoil. However if you try to grow in them, you're completely dependent on liquid nutrients.

- Just a few thoughts.

It's much easier to mix in 1/3 worm castings, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 light mix, on top of a large layer of perlite, blood meal (N), bone meal (P), alfalfa pellets, magnesium lime (pH, Mg), seaweed, woodash (K), epsom salt (S, Mg), silica clay (Si), lava meal/basalt meal (trace elements), which give you all the N, P, K, Mg, Ca, S, Si and Trace Elements needed, and a good helping of more perlite that the plants' roots can grow into. Mix with water. This needs at least a month to rest before the organic nutrients are stable enough to plant into.

Or mix the light mix with a couple of table spoons of magnesium lime (for higher pH, Mg for the leaves and Ca) and rock phosphate (P for root growth, and more Ca). Use that as the top layer and use a heavily perfertilized lower layer.

You mainly use a low concentration of liquid nutrients, like 0.4 EC of bloom fertilizer and 0.1 EC of epsom salt.

Right now I'm making my own kombucha of worm castings and seaweed (Si for resin, trace elements for the cannabinoids, some K, lots of vitamins), and a sugar source (molasses, fruit, rum of which alcohol has evaported), for the ripening phase. The plants react very well to it with extra scents and just good health. I also think it works against insects. And it certainly stimulates the soil life.

 

[greenspiritz]

1. It looks like iron lockout from underwatering.

Saturate the medium thoroughly when you do water.

2. Pot size - 1 gallon per foot of expected growth

5.7 litres is 1.5 gallons which is ok if the plant naturally grows to 1.5 feet. If it's naturally more like 3 feet, you'll need at least 3 gallons.

Most descriptions of Grand Daddy Purple's height say it's 'medium' or even 'compact', which isn't very helpful in estimating pot size.

3. Light Mix

Also, any Light Mix is good for using as the basis for a supersoil. However if you try to grow in them, you're completely dependent on liquid nutrients.

- Just a few thoughts.

It's much easier to mix in 1/3 worm castings, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 light mix, on top of a large layer of perlite, blood meal (N), bone meal (P), alfalfa pellets, magnesium lime (pH, Mg), seaweed, woodash (K), epsom salt (S, Mg), silica clay (Si), lava meal/basalt meal (trace elements), which give you all the N, P, K, Mg, Ca, S, Si and Trace Elements needed, and a good helping of more perlite that the plants' roots can grow into. Mix with water. This needs at least a month to rest before the organic nutrients are stable enough to plant into.

Or mix the light mix with a couple of table spoons of magnesium lime (for higher pH, Mg for the leaves and Ca) and rock phosphate (P for root growth, and more Ca). Use that as the top layer and use a heavily perfertilized lower layer.

You mainly use a low concentration of liquid nutrients, like 0.4 EC of bloom fertilizer and 0.1 EC of epsom salt.

Right now I'm making my own kombucha of worm castings and seaweed (Si for resin, trace elements for the cannabinoids, some K, lots of vitamins), and a sugar source (molasses, fruit, rum of which alcohol has evaported), for the ripening phase. The plants react very well to it with extra scents and just good health. I also think it works against insects. And it certainly stimulates the soil life.

Thanks for the advice TanzanianMagic, I've only tried organic once before and it went terribly wrong lol. So I've always stuck to chem way from then on lol

I think the few girls are recovering, the yellowing has slowed down and starting to green up again in between the veins in the last 2 days. It's starting to look like a Mg deficiency, but it's certainly not, it's just regressing back. I understand iron is very immobile so might take some time to revert her leaves back to green, but shes still growing, and the other 4 or 5 have stopped yellowing also now.

I still haven't watered yet, so might of been a case of overwatered and high PH at 7.5 that caused this, and maybe under fed. The pots are getting really light and one or 2 plants are now showing signs of watering needed, so i'll do that tomorrow morning first thing.

My next feed will be PH-6.3 and PPM-550 = EC-1.1

Then i'll continue to increase EC 0.1 each week and keep on with the foliar spray until they've improved fully.

I was also thinking of getting (Fe-EDDHA 6% Iron Chelate Fertilizer)

This was suggested by Canna on their website. Maybe worth getting for any problems that may arise in the future.

Canna: "The best thing you can do is spray the plants with a watery solution of EDDHA - (max. 0.1 grams per litre) or EDTA chelates (max. 0.5 grams per litre)."

Again, thanks TanzanianMagic for taking your time to help me, i'll post back here for update on this deficiency.

 

[greenspiritz]

Picture 1# Is today, and picture 2# was 2 days ago.

 

[greenspiritz]

How they are all looking today

 

[Americangrower]

Lower PH 7.5 is to high. I aim for 6.5 to 6.8.

They need nutes. I would give them a fish emulsion like the Organic gem I use. Liquid karma would help as well.

 

[greenspiritz]

Lower PH 7.5 is to high. I aim for 6.5 to 6.8.

They need nutes. I would give them a fish emulsion like the Organic gem I use. Liquid karma would help as well.

I've not normally had a problem watering the soil with just the standard PH of the tap water before, but this strain seemed really fussy, also the last soil i used was a lower PH around 5.5 - 5.8 so watering with 7.5 would equalled things out i presumed.

Anyway, I've continued with the foilar spray, its now at 400PPM and wow they're recovering fast, I still haven't watered them yet and their getting rather dry but still a little weight there.

I think this problem was caused by over watering too much after potting up and high PH 7.5

I have only fed them twice since this developed, first with 450PPM and then 500PPM the second, i don't think nutrients in the soil was the problem, i think the case was lock out due to high PH and overwatering.

It's one of the fussiest strains I've done up to now but they're picking up now.

Recap to how i fixed this:

Foilar feeding twice a day with half a cap of formulex and 10 drops of cal/mag to 1.5 litre. PPM-475 PH-7

First feed was (450ppm PH 6.5)
Second feed was (500ppm PH 6.4)
3rd feed tomorrow will be (550ppm PH 6.3)

Week 2 starts this Monday so i'll ramp up the PPM to 600. I'll be adding:

Ionic Soil - Grow
Ionic - Cal/mag
Growth Technology - Silicon
Canna - Boost Accelerator
Buddha Tree - Flower Burst

All half strength dose.

Thanks for the help and advice

 

[greenspiritz]

It definitely wasn't lack of nutrients i can't even hit over 550PPM, they're showing mild early signs of Nitrogen toxicity (Clawing & Canoeing leaves).

 

[greenspiritz]

Starting to make a recovery Although this now looks like a Magnesium deficiency, it isn't. The green has slowly started working it's way back in from the lack of Iron, almost mimicking a Magnesium deficiency.

Just another learning curve i guess

 

[TanzanianMagic]

Starting to make a recovery Although this now looks like a Magnesium deficiency, it isn't. The green has slowly started working it's way back in from the lack of Iron, almost mimicking a Magnesium deficiency.

Just another learning curve i guess

That's great.

Iron is a non-mobile nutrient, and magnesium is mobile. The only difference between the two deficiencies is that Iron def. starts at the growing tips and top, and mangesium deficiency starts from the middle leaves and moves up node by node.

It's great that your plants are recovering.