load center question

[SiR-GrOwS-aLoT]

i have 3 400hps an 1-1000hps

my question is, can a load center be plugged onto a 220 circut like a dryer outlet and supply 110 to its outlets?

all my ballasts are 110 and i dont have enough power to operate my lights,fans, a/c so i figured id get a load center built if this can be done

also if i CAN get a load center that will plug into 220 and supply 110, how would the amperage work out? will my light be drawing half the amps cause its comming off a 220 circut or will it draw full amps cause its been plugged into a 110 outlet even tho the panel is plugged into 220

thanks

 

[SiR-GrOwS-aLoT]

anyone?

 

[cesartime]

The load centers that you buy from the hydro store come in 30A and 50A, I use the 30A box, and you only get 10 amps of 110v power, so you cant run more than a 1k light on that circuit supplied by the load center, I beleive that the 50A board is only equipped w/ 10A of 110v also, so youre out of luck trying to run the 110v lights off the load center. Are you positive that your 1k is only 110v? Maybe its multi-tap and you can run it on the 240v.

Have a nice one.

 

[ItsGrowTime]

This is probably what you are looking for.

http://www.progressive-growth.com/proddetail.php?prod=43060

 

[SiR-GrOwS-aLoT]

yea the 1000 is dual voltage but everything else i have is 110. DP, that guy that builds these things on here said it would be easier to run it at 110..but he has not returned anymore of my messages, so im on the hunt for one i can order i guess

the 1000 is dual but my 3 400's and all my fans and a/c and such are 110

 

[cocktail frank]

the load center can be plugged into a 220v dryer outlet, but......
it must be a 4 wire dryer plug.
if you want 120v, you need to have a neutral. if you have a 220/120volt load center on a 3 wire dryer cord, youre asking for trouble.

 

[Local420]

If you check that link, something isn't making sense.

It says it's a 30amp 6 light timer, but the description says:
Timer Panel with individual 15amp breakers for each ballast. Run up to 6 x 1000 Watt ballasts.
Included in this model are 2 x untimed 120 volt recepticles.
Comes with pre wired Dryer Plug.

All ballasts must be wired for 120 volt power!!

if this is true, then running 6x 1000w ballasts, wired for 120 then you're looking at approx. 57amps. (6 * 9.5 = 57)

I see a major issue with this....as all I see is basically a subpanel with an intermatic timer.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but I dont think I am.

 

[cocktail frank]

it is 220v, the 120v ballasts are plit up on 2 hot legs.
so its really 28.5a on each leg.
still too close to the 30a rating.
shouldn't go over 80% of the 30a breaker, which is 24a.
thats cutting it close.
and by 30a breaker, i mean the brkr that feeds the dryer plug, not whats in the subpanel

 

[I2KanGrow]

Hey SirGrOwS:

Have you noticed that your dryer outlet has 4 pins?? I did a quick google images search and found this:


220V is basically 2-110V circuits strapped-together, phased 180-degrees from each other.

Typically, your wires are colored as 2 110V legs (Black & Red), a Neutral (White) and a ground (Copper). This means that you can derive 2 110V circuits of the same amperage as your 1 220V circuit.

Use a volt meter, if your wire is of the above color scheme (using the standard colors) - 1 110V circuit would be Red-white and the other would be the traditional Black-White.

You'll need to wire-nut a "Y" for both the ground (copper) and the neutral (white). So, wire 1 110V socket with Red/White and copper, the other with Black/White and copper, and you're good to go.

a typical example: 1 20Amp 220V circuit will give you 2 20-amp 110V circuits using this scheme.

 

[Local420]

it is 220v, the 120v ballasts are plit up on 2 hot legs.
so its really 28.5a on each leg.
still too close to the 30a rating.
shouldn't go over 80% of the 30a breaker, which is 24a.
thats cutting it close.
and by 30a breaker, i mean the brkr that feeds the dryer plug, not whats in the subpanel

Thanks for clearing that up!!

 

[SiR-GrOwS-aLoT]

i have no idea what u just said man..heheh...i know nothing about electricity so ur post was like chineses to me..
but
found this link on aonther thread will this work for me?
http://refreshyourhome.com/new-steamer-windows/220-110V-CONVERTER.html


these converters come in both 3 and 4 prong plugs...will one of these handle my 1000 and 3-400's? and a 10 amp a/c?

thanks guys

SGA

 

[I2KanGrow]

i have no idea what u just said man..heheh...i know nothing about electricity so ur post was like chineses to me..
but
found this link on aonther thread will this work for me?
http://refreshyourhome.com/new-steamer-windows/220-110V-CONVERTER.html


these converters come in both 3 and 4 prong plugs...will one of these handle my 1000 and 3-400's? and a 10 amp a/c?

thanks guys

SGA

Sure, that will work, they've even backed-up each leg with individual breakers. I'm not uncomfortable about splitting the legs myself, and saving around $150. in the process, but, ya gotta understand your limits, and I think you're being being wise to do so.

As far as handling the load, this unit can handle a 20-amp/220V load, which means up to 20-amps per leg... or 40-amps total. Amps = Watts/Voltage, so let's figure this out for you.

It's best to try to divide the load equally... I'd say put the air conditioner and 1-400-watter on 1 circuit (1500W or 13.7 Amps total), 2 400-watter and the 1000-watter on the other (18000W or 16.4 Amps total). I put less amperage on the air conditioner side because they draw a lot (spikes) when the compressor kicks-in.

But, before you do all of that - you need to find the breaker that this load is connected to, see how many amps we have available for us to use in the 1st. place. This also assumes that there's nothing else on that circuit - it's important to check this out, OK??

RE: which plug... it doesn't matter really, 3-prong plugs tie the neutral and ground together. What kind of plug do you have??? What's really important is finding how many amps you have available, and you'll find that out by looking in the breaker box, and reading the number off of the handle of that circuit breaker (actually 2 breakers that are tied-together, you'll see!).

 

[SiR-GrOwS-aLoT]

thank you very much.

il check my panel asap

 

[cocktail frank]

dude, listen to me. it is UNSAFE to use that 3 wire plug for 120v outlets!!!!!!
i dont care what other people do, do you really want to play with fire when it comes to your grow?
that 3 wire plug has 2 hots and a bare ground, NO NEUTRAL!
you cannot use a bare ground as a neutral because a neutral technically is a current carrying conductor, it needs to be insulated!!!!!!
i cant fathom how those people actually get away with selling that setup

 

[cocktail frank]

do yourself a favor and read the link in my sig on ELECTRICAL SAFETY.
that is why i posted it there, to help people out who need it.
read whats there for a better understanding on juice.
some stuff in there is way technical, but i do have laman terms in there aswell.

 

[I2KanGrow]

dude, listen to me. it is UNSAFE to use that 3 wire plug for 120v outlets!!!!!!
i dont care what other people do, do you really want to play with fire when it comes to your grow?
that 3 wire plug has 2 hots and a bare ground, NO NEUTRAL!
you cannot use a bare ground as a neutral because a neutral technically is a current carrying conductor, it needs to be insulated!!!!!!
i cant fathom how those people actually get away with selling that setup

Yeah, I have to admit cocktail, I'd rather be dealing w/ 4 wires here also... I've never understood how those 3-wire dryer plugs/outlets pass UL certification. Notice the (lack of) UL certification on that box??

You're absolutely right to be cautious, but in reality, it's amazing how many older houses are still wired with 2 wires/no ground. BX-wired houses were the state-of-the-art till around 1960, and you can still buy ungrounded (phased-pin) outlets.