Light Proofing

[LyryC]

I took my closet door off its hinges and mounted a large plywood sheet to a few hinges mounted onto a wood board screwed into the wall adjacent the door frame.

I put some shitty weather stripping onto it and got most of it light proof, but there are areas that require a few stacks, or layers, of the stripping, which IMO will not cut it, because its just foam with adhesive on it. . .

The Plywood door will be fabricated to accommodate a Stanley blower mod(really lasko) intake with a filter, a Plexiglass window that I need to light proof as well, for viewing of the garden without disruption of the environment, and an exhaust port to mount an exhaust fan and filter when time comes.

For now I need to stabilize the light leak into my closet and I was wondering if anyone had any advise or ideas regarding a good material or a simple method of achieving this.

Is minor light leak acceptable, like a sliver? Or any/all is the devil!?

I feel like I can't have any leak and I don't want any, and my concern is in getting basically the plywood flush with the door frame and/or wall to get pure darkness. The blower mod won't be hard with a DIY passive light block/filter, and I might even DIY for the Carbon filter, we'll see if materials seem capable and up to the task at hand.

Was wondering if anyone has had experience with light proofing in this scenario.

Thanks all, need to get this done so I can finally flower!

 

[The_Core]

I am a new grower I once read that for cracks and hard to get to places, Expandable spray foam in a can works great. Just my thoughts. Hopefully one of the experienced growers know about this.

 

[LyryC]

Oh I know about that but I need something to attach to the door like a foam or something to act as a air and light barrier. fill in the gap type of deal.

 

[LyryC]

Does a Carbon Filter attached to an exhaust fan installed into a 6 in exhaust port block light if it is air tight? I have no experience with carbon filters and was unsure if they are light proof so that I technically do not need to make a passive light block for the exhaust on top of the intake, thank you!

 

[qupee]

Does a Carbon Filter attached to an exhaust fan installed into a 6 in exhaust port block light if it is air tight? I have no experience with carbon filters and was unsure if they are light proof so that I technically do not need to make a passive light block for the exhaust on top of the intake, thank you!

Every carbon filter I've used has been light tight. I've had 4x12 phresh, can 2600, can 33, 10x24 phresh.

There is like door sealing foam shaped like C or J so that when a door closes on it, it squeezes the C channel shut... It's been a long time since I saw it somewhere however so I don't have a link sorry

 

[LyryC]

Progress

Progress

I needed to finish light proofing this plywood door. It was going to be expensive. Instead I found out that a new closet door would be 30$. So instead of spending around 100$ total to finish the plywood door, I'm going to spend under 50$ to finish the original closet door.
I already returned a few things I used for the plywood. The only down side is I will not have a plexiglass window to view the garden and not disturb it.

I need some more weather stripping to close the light leaks in the pictures. I installed a lock on the door, and I measured and marked out the cuts I need.

I purchased pipe insulator to block the bottom of the door, and after I make the cuts and install the exhaust/intake ports I will use the Sealant I purchased Great stuff, to permanently attach/seal the bottom of the door. Will be using it to seal the cuts in the doors for the vents.

Some pictures, and more to come.

 

[LyryC]

Noticed a lot of views and no replies and just went on my own intuition since that what this is all about, learning.

Gorilla duct tape for the win! Duct taped everything together on the stanley blower mod.

Build a custom light filter for the intake vent. I also built in an air filter to ensure that I keep the junk out.

The blower is mounted on wood to move with the door.

Right now I need to determine how I will control odor. I'm going to build a custom DIY Carbon Filter.

I am either going to turn the vent on the top left into a vent/filter combo. With some Screen, a 4" to 6" difuser, 4" cap and 5 pounds of activated carbon, oh and a few panty hose, and of course more duct tape.

Don't know exactly how to do it just yet.

I can stuff the 6" radius 14 inch long vent I have with panty hose and carbon, and attach a fan to the other end, but that would not work like a traditional filter where the air is spread through the entire filter at the same time, opposed to going through one end and out the other.

Or I can make a cylinder to act like an air channel from the ducting into the vent, with the carbon between the air channel and the vent walls, like a traditional filter, but with still the air going in 1 end and out the other, opposed out the entire filter.

Any help and advise on that would be much appreciated.

Some pictures of my finished work



Light proof except for the exhaust up top.

100% air tight.

 

[DocCrow]

build a jamb inside of the door, like a normal door has

 

[DocCrow]

Here i drew this up really quick for you in case you were not sure what I meant


Your door should have a frame (just 2x4s) as pictured. just nail a 1x2 jamb on the inside of the frame, inset 1/8" more than the thickness of the door. Then put the weather stripping (use 1/4" thick and 3/4" wide) so it is attached to the jamb and the door compresses it slightly when closed. Easy Peasy.

DC

 

[LyryC]

What a brilliant ide DocCrow! but too late I already put all the stripping down but I like what you have taught me, and I thought I was smart

My custom Light filter contracts airflow too much so I took it off. It's also useless haha, lol

Right now I am in the Carbon Filter dilemma.

Buy new one, or make custom. . .

16$ 90 ounces of activated carbon, 5.5 lbs
7$ aluminum screen
5$ 4Inch Vent cap
7$ 4" to 6" diffuser
2$ zip ties
Just need pantyhose from a girl! Been asking and getting the ones with holes, started specifying lol.
Got Duct tape.

Roughly $40 to $50 for the custom Filter, not including the $13 Intake Vent cap to use as an exhaust port / Filter Combo.

Don't need it yet since I haven't started to flower and I won't need it for a few weeks after I do.
Just trying to be prepared.

 

[Loids]

Sounds like you got it all figured out but for in the future or for other peoples theres this stuff called Butyl rubber tape it works good for filling up empty space or sealing leaks/holes. Its not a actual tape because it doesnt have a backing but it comes in a ribbon similar to tape, most Rv supply places carry it or it can be found online. RV places use it for sealing windows and the stuff its very versatile. It has the consistency of bubble gum but wont get stuck as much as gum would but its still sticky though. it helps a lot it also can be used as a vibration damper or sound damper. It fills gaps really good(perfect for air tightness) and its easier to remove than caulk or mastik. Its pretty dense stuff
heres what it looks like

Also there's this butyl rubber tape with foil backing and the stuff is ridiculously strong and sticks/molds to almost everything but doesnt leave a residue it and creates a perfectly airtight seal and its far superior to gorilla tape for some applications check it out. its what we use in the hvac industry
Polyken 367-17

heres the data sheet
http://www.conservationmart.com/specs/Polyken 367-17 Sell Sheet 119.05-09.pdf

 

[LyryC]

Sounds like you got it all figured out but for in the future or for other peoples theres this stuff called Butyl rubber tape it works good for filling up empty space or sealing leaks/holes. Its not a actual tape because it doesnt have a backing but it comes in a ribbon similar to tape, most Rv supply places carry it or it can be found online. RV places use it for sealing windows and the stuff its very versatile. It has the consistency of bubble gum but wont get stuck as much as gum would but its still sticky though. it helps a lot it also can be used as a vibration damper or sound damper. It fills gaps really good(perfect for air tightness) and its easier to remove than caulk or mastik. Its pretty dense stuff
heres what it looks like View Image

Also there's this butyl rubber tape with foil backing and the stuff is ridiculously strong and sticks/molds to almost everything but doesnt leave a residue it and creates a perfectly airtight seal and its far superior to gorilla tape for some applications check it out. its what we use in the hvac industry
Polyken 367-17
View Image
heres the data sheet
http://www.conservationmart.com/specs/Polyken 367-17 Sell Sheet 119.05-09.pdf

 

[DocCrow]

What a brilliant idea DocCrow!

Brilliant I am not. I admit I got the idea from my garage door, and every other door in my house. Haha. I think sometimes we get so caught up in building this stuff that we forget to see what is right in front of our faces. I mean, that is just how a normal door is built, (well roughly). I had the same issue when building my cabinet yesterday, and got so frustrated I had to take a break. When I walked through the door it dawned on me.

As far as filtering goes, If I can make something I usually do, since I know it will usually turn out better, and I can make sure it is sized for my applications. I like to build shit as much as I like to grow.

Is that vent going to be light proofed? is that your intake or exhaust? I am finishing my light trap based off of ScrubNinja's design this morning, if you need I will put up some pictures.


DocCrow

 

[LyryC]

Well my closet door frame has that set up for me to place the stripping on, so I didn't need to build it and adding wood behind/onto the set door frame to add stripping would actually cost more and take more work in my situation.

The top left is for Exhaust. I could make it a passive exhaust because the air tight room creates pressure, but I feel the air flow wouldn't be suffice for the plants.

Now I just need to make the carbon filter. I'm going to air seal and light proof the exhaust vent on the top after I make my filter because I need to use the Vent it self for part of the custom set up. Then I will set it in place permanently with some Great Stuff expanding foam and my favorite, more tape haha.

I am in a dilemma about if I want the filter to be part of the vent because I will need to replace it / the carbon, and the fact that I won't need it for a weeks still means I got time to let it settle.

I'll have pictures up of the whole shahbang later

 

[SplitOpen&Melt]

Sounds like you got it all figured out but for in the future or for other peoples theres this stuff called Butyl rubber tape it works good for filling up empty space or sealing leaks/holes. Its not a actual tape because it doesnt have a backing but it comes in a ribbon similar to tape, most Rv supply places carry it or it can be found online. RV places use it for sealing windows and the stuff its very versatile. It has the consistency of bubble gum but wont get stuck as much as gum would but its still sticky though. it helps a lot it also can be used as a vibration damper or sound damper. It fills gaps really good(perfect for air tightness) and its easier to remove than caulk or mastik. Its pretty dense stuff
heres what it looks like View Image

Also there's this butyl rubber tape with foil backing and the stuff is ridiculously strong and sticks/molds to almost everything but doesnt leave a residue it and creates a perfectly airtight seal and its far superior to gorilla tape for some applications check it out. its what we use in the hvac industry
Polyken 367-17
View Image
heres the data sheet
http://www.conservationmart.com/specs/Polyken 367-17 Sell Sheet 119.05-09.pdf

This stuff looks awesome. Is this available at hardware stores/home depot?

 

[Loids]

Homedepot has a knockoff half ass version thats not even close. dont waste ur money at homedepot hit up a HVAC supply house i get my rolls for 14$. i barely use any other tape like gorilla or duct tape, only on certain applications. Also theres some tape called Venture 1599B tape its really good too but doesnt use butyl in it. its good in its own way though, its really strong and has very sticky adhesive and has a little stretch so you can really torque it down on stuff. These are some real high performance tapes and well worth the time/money to find. Also if you need a fan Fantech FG series are top notch also they sell dimmers that work well with there fans. i covered my fan in butyl rubber and then polyken it helps reduce noise i also put some of the butyl rubber tape around the duct connection and use a hose clamp to seal it down nice and good then put a wrap of polyken or venture. Also Fantech fans have a 100% airtight case and made in usa and have no relation to the hydro biz. there made for Hvac in houses and commercial. supply places that know whats up carry them. heres a vid you guys probably dont need a fan but i thought id let the info be known. Can fans are probably just as good or others i just dont have any experience with them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVsmUAB1QXg

http://www.venturetape.com/pdfs/sellsheets/1599B_sellsheet.pdf

 

[LyryC]

With constant entering and leaving the grow closet the door stripping has failed.

Going to upgrade. Update in the up coming week. Flowering starts on the 22nd and I need to be able to do 12/12 with 100% darkness.

Not fucking around!

 

[Vernal Equinox]

With constant entering and leaving the grow closet the door stripping has failed.

I once had this issue as well.

The problem is that most of that stripping is sticky on both sides, so it sticks both to the door frame, and the door itself, then gets pulled apart. On stripping edges that butt up to the door, I rub talcum powder on the exposed glue to de-sticky it, so you still have the seal of the foam but without the damage from the glue issues.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

how about just using reflectix for the door like this.

Here is a link to how I did this.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=246681

 

[LyryC]

Damn thats way smarter! I bet cheaper in the end also.