Let's Combine The Knowledge

[mrwags]

ATTENTION ALL GROWER'S


With the demise of the largest weed site on the Net I felt it was time to embrace the fact that ICM has gained so much in the past weeks (members,knowledge,experience) and have decided that we need an FAQ page. So with that in mind could you OG,CW and any others who wishes to start posting the much needed info on THIS thread so that once compiled Gypsy might have GL hook it all up and give it it's own Forum for all newbies or old stoner's like me, a place to go to for that quick answer. The one at OG was the BOMB. If this one could be even close I feel it will serve the group very nicely. That damn page was invaluable for that head high stoner brain lock moment when you said to yourself damn it I know the answer but?

So Welcome New Folks and Let's Share The Love. :friends:

Please


Hope All Is Well In Your World

Mr.Wags

 

[Guest]

mr.wags..... Indeed!...

 

[gOurd^jr.]

Damn straight Wags!! that FAQ was indeed an invaluable tool and I would love to see something similar here on IC.
keepitgreen
gOurd

 

[Babbabud]

Great Idea guys and I just found another thread that gave me inspiratiion and hope
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=20848&page=1&pp=30

 

[Guest]

nice wags,

I already started this thread a few days back tho just impossible to find it i'm sure because of the massive amount of BULLSHIT threads.*

00420 posted the entire OG FAQ in the thread, feel free to sort through it and organize it here, maybe GN will move them to a forum of it's own with each "write-up, or 'TEK'" as it's own thread.

so long.

*sorry, just a bit P.O.'d, not even my 2 grow threads have had replies because of the people making silly threads covering them up ..i'm just fedup

 

[00420]

The History of Hydroponics

The History of Hydroponics

The word hydroponics comes from two Greek words, "hydro" meaning water and "ponics" meaning labor. The concept of soil less gardening or hydroponics has been around for thousands of years. The hanging Gardens of Babylon and The Floating Gardens of China are two of the earliest examples of hydroponics. Scientists started experimenting with soil less gardening around 1950. Since then other countries, such as Holland, Germany, and Australia have used hydroponics for crop production with amazing results.

The Benefits of Hydroponics
Hydroponics is proved to have several advantages over soil gardening. The growth rate on a hydroponic plant is 30-50 percent faster than a soil plant, grown under the same conditions. The yield of the plant is also greater. Scientists believe that there are several reasons for the drastic differences between hydroponic and soil plants. The extra oxygen in the hydroponic growing mediums helps to stimulate root growth. Plants with ample oxygen in the root system also absorb nutrients faster. The nutrients in a hydroponic system are mixed with the water and sent directly to the root system. The plant does not have to search in the soil for the nutrients that it requires. Those nutrients are being delivered to the plant several times per day. The hydroponic plant requires very little energy to find and break down food. The plant then uses this saved energy to grow faster and to produce more fruit. Hydroponic plants also have fewer problems with bug infestations, funguses and disease. In general, plants grown hydroponically are healthier and happier plants.

Hydroponic gardening also offers several benefits to our environment. Hydroponic gardening uses considerably less water than soil gardening, because of the constant reuse the nutrient solutions. Due to lack of necessity, fewer pesticides are used on hydroponic crops. Since hydroponic gardening systems use no topsoil, topsoil erosion isn't even an issue. Although, if agricultural trends continue to erode topsoil and waste water, hydroponics may soon be our only solution.

Growing Mediums
The purpose of a growing medium is to aerate and support the root system of the plant and to channel the water and nutrients. Different growing mediums work well in different types of hydroponic systems. A fast draining medium, such as Hydroton or expanded shale works well in an ebb and flow type system. Hydroton is a light expanded clay aggregate. It is a light, airy type of growing medium that allows plenty of oxygen to penetrate the plant's root system. Both types of grow rocks can be reused, although the shale has more of a tendency to break down and may not last as long as the Hydroton. These grow rocks are very stable and rarely effect the pH of the nutrient solution.

Rockwool has become an extremely popular growing medium. Rockwool was originally used in construction as insulation. There is now a horticultural grade of Rockwool. Unlike the insulation grade, horticultural Rockwool is pressed into growing cubes and blocks. It is produced from volcanic rock and limestone. These components are melted at temperatures of 2500 degrees and higher. The molten solution is poured over a spinning cylinder, comparable to the way cotton candy is made, then pressed into identical sheets, blocks or cubes. Since Rockwool holds 10-14 times as much water as soil and retains 20 percent air it can be used in just about any hydroponic system. Although the gardener must be careful of the pH, since Rockwool has a pH of 7.8 it can raise the pH of the nutrient solution. Rockwool cannot be used indefinitely and most gardeners only get one use per cube. It is also commonly used for propagation.

Other commonly used growing mediums are perlite, vermiculite and different grades of sand. These three mediums are stable and rarely effect the pH of the nutrient solution. Although, they tend to hold too much moisture and should be used with plants that are tolerant to these conditions. Perlite, vermiculite and sands are very inexpensive options, and work charitably in wick systems, although they are not the most effective growing mediums.

Nutrients
Most of the principles that apply to soil fertilizers also apply to hydroponic fertilizers, or nutrient solutions. A hydroponic nutrient solution contains all the elements that the plant normally would get from the soil. These nutrients can be purchased at a hydroponic supply store. Most are highly concentrated, using 2 to 4 teaspoons per gallon of water. They come in liquid mixes or powered mixes, usually with at least two different containers, one for grow and one for bloom. The liquids are the slightly more expensive and the easiest to use. They dissolve quickly and completely into the reservoir and often have an added pH buffer. The powered varieties are inexpensive and require a little more attention. They need to be mixed much more thoroughly and often don't dissolve completely into the reservoir. Most do not have a pH buffer.

Like soil, hydroponic systems can be fertilized with organic or chemical nutrients. An organic hydroponic system is considerably more work to maintain. The organic compounds have a tendency to lock together and cause pumps blockage. Some hydroponic gardeners simply supplement their hydroponic gardens with organic nutrients, using the chemical nutrients as the main food supply. This gives the plants a stable supply of nutrients without the high maintenance a hydro-organic system.

pH
Most plants can grow hydroponically within a pH range of 5.8 to 6.8, 6.3 is considered optimal. The pH in a hydroponic system is much easier to check than the pH of soil. Many hardware, pet, and hydroponic supply stores sell pH-testing kits. They range in price from $4.00 to about $15.00, depending on the range and type of test you prefer. Testing pH is easy and essential in a hydroponics system. If the pH is too high or too low the plant will not be able to absorb certain nutrients and will show signs of deficiencies. pH should be checked once a week. It is easy to adjust by adding small amounts of soluble Potash to raise pH, or phosphoric acid to lower pH. There are also several pH meters available. These give a digital reading of the pH in the system. The pH meter cost around $100 and are not necessary in most cases.

Hydroponic Systems
Hydroponic systems are characterized as active or passive. An active hydroponic system actively moves the nutrient solution, usually using a pump. Passive hydroponic systems rely on the capillary action of the growing medium or a wick. The nutrient solution is absorbed by the medium or the wick and passed along to the roots. Passive systems are usually too wet and do not supply enough oxygen to the root system for optimum growth rates.

Hydroponic systems can also be characterized as recovery or non-recovery. Recovery systems or recirculating systems reuse the nutrient solution. Non-recovery means just what it says. The nutrient solution is applied to the growing medium and not recovered.

The Wick System
The wick system is a passive non-recovery type hydroponic system. It uses no pumps and has no moving parts. The nutrients are stored in the reservoir and moved into the root system by capillary action often using a candle or lantern wick. In simpler terms, the nutrient solution travels up the wick and into the root system of the plant. Wick systems often uses sand or perlite, vermiculite mix and a growing medium. The wick system is easy and inexpensive to set-up and maintain. Although, it tends to keep the growing medium to wet, which doesn't allow for the optimum amount of oxygen in the root system. The wick system is not the most effective way to garden hydroponically.

The Ebb and Flow System
The Ebb and Flow hydroponic system is an active recovery type system. The Ebb and Flow uses a submersible pump in the reservoir and the plants are in the upper tray. They work on a simple flood and drain theory. The reservoir holds the nutrient solution and the pump. When the pump turns on, the nutrient solution is pumped up to the upper tray and delivered to the root system of the plants. The pump should remain on for about 20 to 30 minutes, which is called a flood cycle. Once the water has reached a set level, an overflow pipe or fitting allows the nutrient solution to drain back into the reservoir. The pump remains on for the entire flood cycle. After the flood cycle the nutrient solution slowly drains back down into the reservoir through the pump.

During the flood cycle oxygen poor air is pushed out of the root system by the upward moving nutrient solution. As the nutrient solution drains back into the reservoir, oxygen rich air is pulled into the growing medium. This allows the roots ample oxygen to maximize their nutrient intake. Rockwool and grow rocks are most commonly used growing mediums in Ebb and Flow type systems. The Ebb and Flow is low maintenance, yet highly effective type of hydroponic gardening.

Nutrient Film Technique
The Nutrient Film Technique or NFT system is an active recovery type hydroponic system. Again, using submersible pumps and reusing nutrient solutions. The NFT uses a reservoir with a submersible pump that pumps the nutrient solution into a grow-tube where the roots suspended. The grow-tube is at a slight downward angle so the nutrient solution runs over the roots and back into the reservoir. The nutrient solution flows over the roots up to 24 hours per day.

Oxygen is needed in the grow-tube so capillary matting or air stones must be used. The plants are held up by a support collar or a grow-basket and no growing medium is used. The NFT system is very effective. Although, many novice hydroponic growers find it difficult to fine tune. It can also be very unforgiving, with no growing medium to hold any moisture, any long period of interruption in the nutrient flow can cause the roots to dry out and the plants to suffer and possibly die.

Continuous Drip
The Continuous Drip system is an active recovery or non-recovery type system. This system uses a submersible pump in a reservoir with supply lines going to each plant. With drip emitter for each plant the gardener can adjust the amount of solution per plant. A drip tray under each row of plants, sending the solution back to the reservoir, can easily make this system an active recovery type. In the early days of hydroponics, the extra solution was leached out into the ground. Continuous Drip systems are often used with Rockwool. Although, any growing medium can be used with this system, thanks to the adjustment feature on each individual drip emitter.

Buying a System or Building a System
This is the most asked question relating to hydroponics. Should I buy one or build one? This author recommends a little of both. If you have an engineer's mind and dream of building your own hydroponic system, buy one first! Getting an inexpensive system will allow you to get your feet wet and give you a better understanding of how hydroponics works. The hands on experience is worth the cost of the system and chances are, you will be able to reuse the parts in that system when you set out to build your own.

If you would rather get right into building your own, do your research. Get all the information you can and don't rely on just one source. This is a constantly changing industry and there are many books still on the shelves that are already outdated. Building your own system can be very rewarding or extremely frustrating. It's mostly trial and error so, be patient.

Hydroponic gardening is the wave of the future. It is currently being studied in classrooms around the country, local horticultural societies and in government funded research at major universities and NASA. It is also becoming a popular hobby. Hydroponics is fun, exciting and easy to get involved in.

 

[Guest]

ut oh..... here he goes!

 

[00420]

ut oh..... here he goes!

this is not og faq's

i have all of them if some one wants them......

 

[Guest]

yessir mr. chatroom moderator, sir

i thought you were going to start the post frenzy here, i wouldnt bother tho as you already did it at the other thread...all 7 pages worth LOL

GN etc has yet to do anything here with this, so i really wouldnt bother..yet

 

[00420]

pH Meter Electrodes

pH Meter Electrodes

Did you know that all pH electrodes will eventually fail? Some faster than others. The chemicals we use for hydroponics will contaminate and deteriorate the electrode. A replaceable electrode is critical for pH meter affordability.

In hydroponic applications, pocket-sized pH meter electrode failure is due to chemical attack on the single junction pH reference electrode systems that are normally used with this style of meter. In hydroponics, pocket pH testers will fail too quickly to be economical to use. Even though pocket pH testers are inexpensive, highly portable, and otherwise ideal for hydroponics, early electrode failure causes users to become frustrated

Why single junction electrodes fail in harsh applications
The reason most pocket pH tester electrodes eventually fail is that all pH reference electrodes (whether used with glass sensors or ISFET sensors) deteriorate with use. This deterioration is a combination of two factors:

1. One factor is the reference electrode’s electrolyte ions (suspended in liquid, gel or a polymer) are very slowly depleted with use. Electrolyte depletion occurs with all pH electrodes whether they are a heavy-duty industrial electrodes, a sophisticated laboratory electrode, or an electrode on a pocket pH tester. If this is the only factor deteriorating a pH reference electrode, electrode life should be long enough to meet the user’s expectations.

2. The second factor is that contaminating ions from the measured solution can rapidly cause chemical reactions with the silver/silver chloride reference electrolyte system commonly used in pH reference electrodes. This causes sluggish, erratic, wrong or even no pH electrode response as the reference electrode wire is spoiled or the reference junction is clogged. This results in fast electrode failure. This type of deterioration proceeds most rapidly when the pH reference electrode is a single junction pH reference electrode and the solution measured has high concentrations of chemicals (ions) that contaminate and then attack critical components of the reference electrode.

Advantages of double junction electrodes in harsh applications
In high priced, high performance meters, it is common practice to use a double junction pH reference electrode design to slow down pH reference electrode chemical attack. The double junction pH reference electrode isolates the chemically sensitive Ag/AgCl based pH reference electrode system behind a second reference junction and a reference cell filled with KCl electrolyte (suspended in a liquid, gel or polymer).

In double junction electrodes, chemicals (ions) that attack the pH reference electrode signal wire or react with the internal pH reference electrolyte (Ag/AgCl), take much longer to come into contact with the pH reference electrode signal wire and internal pH reference electrolyte. These contaminants must migrate through the first (outer) reference junction, build up a concentration in the cell filled with KCl reference electrolyte, and finally migrate through the second (internal) reference junction before coming in contact with the pH reference electrode signal wire and internal pH reference electrolyte. This longer migration of contamination to internal reference cell delays the pH reference electrode damage that ruins the pH reference electrode. This makes the double junction pH reference electrode and the entire pH electrode system last much longer than single junction pH electrode systems.

 

[00420]

Watts Cheaper 110 or 220 Volts?

Watts Cheaper 110 or 220 Volts?

How much will I save on my electric bill if I run my lights on 220 volts?

A quick answer: Probably nothing.

This is a common misunderstanding about how electricity works and how the power companies charge you for it. The point often noted for the money saving argument is that the amperage is half as much when running grow lights on 220 volts instead of 110 volts. This is true but the utility company doesn’t charge you for amperage, they charge you for wattage. They bill you in kilowatt-hour units. A kilowatt-hour is 1000 watts of usage for one hour or approximately equals a 1000 watt light running for one hour. There’s a nice formula for this: Wattage / Voltage = Amperage. If we plug in the numbers for a 1000 watt sodium grow light, you can see that although the voltage and amperage can change, the wattage always stays the same.

1000 Sodium Grow Light
On 110 Volts: 1100W / 110V = 10A - On 220 Volts: 1100W / 220V = 5A
Note that a 1000 watt sodium ballast draws 1100 watts.

Right about now is when I get the question "well why do they make stuff to run on 220 volts then?" Usually large machines and appliances that draw lots of power run on 220 volts (or more) mainly because of the size wire you would need to use to run them on 110 volts would be very large. The gauge and length of the wire will determine the maximum amperage it will handle before it melts! On a 220 volt circuit, the load is split between two 110 volt wires. This allows you to run smaller wire. This brings us to the "probably" part of the answer. There is another factor, it’s the voltage drop or the voltage lost when the power travels down the wire. The lower the resistance on the wire, the less the voltage drop. If you are running one or two lights in a typical home with the breaker box a short distance away, the efficiency lost due to voltage drop may not be significant enough to justify rewiring your grow room for 220 volts.

 

[00420]

Symptoms of Deficiencies and Toxicities by Element

Symptoms of Deficiencies and Toxicities by Element

Element

N Nitrogen: Deficiency: Plants will exhibit lack of vigor as older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.
Toxicity: Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.

P Phosphorus: Deficiency: Plants are stunted and older leaves often dark dull green in color. Stems and leafstalk may turn purple. Plant maturity is often delayed.
Toxicity: This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability of copper and zinc.

K Potassium: Deficiency: Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions (dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken.
Toxicity: Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron.

S Sulfur: Deficiency: The initial symptoms are the yellowing of the entire leaf including veins usually starting with the younger leaves. Leaf tips may yellow and curl downward.
Toxicity: Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted. Leaves yellowing or scorched at edges.


Mg Magnesium: Deficiency: The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins.
Toxicity: Magnesium toxicity are rare and not generally exhibited visibly.


Ca Calcium: Deficiency: Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Bud development is inhibited and roots may be underdeveloped or die back. Fruit may be stunted or deformed.
Toxicity: Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank.


Fe Iron: Deficiency: Pronounced interveinal chlorosis similar to that cased by magnesium deficiency but on the younger leaves.
Toxicity: Excess accumulation is rare but could cause bronzing or tiny brown spots on leaf surface.


Mn Manganese: Deficiency: Interveinal chlorosis on younger or older leaves followed by necrotic lesions or leaf shedding. Restricted growth and failure to mature normally can also result.
Toxicity: Chlorosis, or blotchy leaf tissue due to insufficient chlorophyll synthesis. Growth rate will slow and vigor will decline.


Cl Chlorine: Deficiency: Wilted chlorotic leaves become bronze in color. Roots become stunted and thickened near tips.
Toxicity: Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.


B Boron: Deficiency: Stem and root tips often die. Root tips often become swollen and discolored. Internal tissues may rot and become host to fungal disease. Leaves show various symptoms which include drying, thickening, distorting, wilting, and chlorotic or necrotic spotting.

Toxicity: Yellowing of leaf tip followed by necrosis of the leaves beginning at tips or margins and progressing inward. Some plants are especially sensitive to boron accumulation.


Zn Zinc: Deficiency: Chlorosis may accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled.
Toxicity: Zinc in excess is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency.


Cu Copper: Deficiency: Young leaves often become dark green and twisted. They may die back or just exhibit necrotic spots. Growth and yield will be deficient as well.
Toxicity: Reduced growth followed by symptoms of iron chlorosis, stunting, reduced branching, abnormal darkening and thickening of roots. This element is essential but extremely toxic in excess.


Mo Molybdenum: Deficiency: Often interveinal chlorosis which occurs first on older leaves, then progressing to the entire plant. Developing severely twisted younger leaves which eventually die.
Toxicity: Excess may cause discoloration of leaves depending on plant species. This condition is rare but could occur from accumulation by continuous application. Used by the plant in very small quantities.

 

[00420]

if anyone has any pic's of the above Deficiencies i would like to add them...

 

[Guest]

f anyone has any pic's of the above Deficiencies i would like to add them...

have you looked in my gallery lately?

lol, i have some on the hard drive and i just deleted a section of a memory card i moved a shitload of defieciency pics to for a TIme like this......alas, i just deleted it totally. like 5 fucking minutes before reading this

 

[Guest]

o, on the hard drive-a few N def. pics and mag def. pics if you need.

uploading is a bitch for me though so use what you can find on the site first if possible

 

[00420]

EC vs. TDS

EC vs. TDS

The debate over EC and TDS has been an ongoing issue for a long time. These two measurements are used to determine the strength of hydroponic solution. Although they are widely used they should only be used as a guideline and you should always follow mixing instructions on the label of you nutrient.
EC stands for Electrical Conductivity and is measured in mS/cm or miliSiemens per centimeter. TDS stands for Total Dissolved Solids and is measured in ppm or parts per million. TDS is acquired by taking the EC value and performing a calculation to determine the TDS value. Because TDS is actually a calculation it is really only a guess at what the nutrient concentration is. On top of that, there are three different conversion factors to determine TDS and different manufacturers use different conversion factors. In other words you could test the same solution with two different meters and get two totally different readings. But the EC is read the same by all meters the only difference is the conversion factor.

Some additional information for the geeks like us



First of all lets talk about the differences and similarities between EC and TDS. We all know that they are both a measure of the amount of dissolved solids in your nutrient solution. This measurement is used by growers to get an idea of how much nutrient is present in the solution. By maintaining the correct level of nutrients in the solution your plants will achieve maximum results. This all sounds very important but there are some major differences between the different meter manufacturers. Some of you may have noticed that some calibration solutions that are marked to read at a certain TDS may actually read different from meter to meter. This is where the problem begins.
Some of you may have not even heard of EC and others may have heard of it but do not even know what it is. Unfortunately many growers in the United States have become very accustomed to using the TDS scale while in most other countries, including Europe, they don't use anything but EC. The fact is that TDS is actually a result of a calculation from EC. The problem is lack of consistency among manufacturers when it comes to conversion factors. This is where it may get a little confusing. Most meter manufacturers in the hydroponics industry use one of two conversions. There is the 442 conversion (40% sodium sulfate, 40% sodium bicarbonate, and 20% sodium chloride) which some say is the closest thing to a hydroponic solution. The 442 conversion is approximately 700 x EC in miliSiemens (mS). Then there is the NaCl conversion (sodium chloride) which others say is the closest thing to a hydroponic solution. The NaCl conversion is approximately 500 x EC in miliSiemens (mS). You can see where the confusion comes from because the same solution will read 2100 ppm on one meter and it will read 1500 ppm on the other. That is a difference of 600 ppm which as many of you know could be devastating. Both meters are functioning correctly they are just calculating the TDS using a different formula. So, if you do not calibrate your meter using the correct calibration solution your meter could give you a very inaccurate reading.
The solution is simple, use EC. With EC, no conversion is required so all meters will read the same regardless of the manufacturer.

Here is a chart showing some sample measurements:

____Electrical Conductivity (EC)_______|_________Parts Per Million (PPM)
miliSiemens (mS) microSiemens (mS)___|___NaCl Conversion___442 Conversion
____1.0____________1000___________=_______500 ppm______700 ppm
____1.5____________1500___________=_______750 ppm______1050 ppm
____2.0____________2000___________=_______1000 ppm_____1400 ppm
____2.5____________2500___________=_______1250 ppm_____1750 ppm
____3.0____________3000___________=_______1500 ppm_____2100 ppm

 

[00420]

Rockwool

Rockwool

Rockwool is a horticultural growing media made from the natural ingredients Basalt rock and Chalk. These are then melted at 1600° C into a lava which is blown into a large spinning chamber, which pulls the lava into fibers like "cotton candy." If you have ever visited a volcano you have probably seen these fibers flying around in the air surrounding the volcano. Once the fibers are spun they are then compressed into a mat which is then cut into slabs and cubes. The rockwool granulates are just bales of uncompressed fibers. The process is very efficient, producing 37 cubic foot of wool from 1 cubic foot of rocks. Since rockwool is born in fire it renders the product chemically and biologically inert and creates the ideal growing medium for hydroponics. Since its development in Denmark in the early 1970's, rockwool has become the major vegetable and flower production medium throughout Europe and North America.


Horticultural Rockwool growing media is primarily available in two general formats. First, as rigid slabs, blocks, and cubes known as "bonded" products because the fibers are held together with a "gluing" or binding agent which renders them stiff and brittle. This is the primary format for the vegetable and cut flower industries. Secondly, rockwool is available as a highly refined and consistent hydrophilic or hydrophobic granulate which is basically water absorbent or water repellent. This format can be used as a component in various peat moss based soilless media or for ground bed incorporation to improve the tilth of heavy clay or light sandy soils.


The formed products are available in various sizes and shapes which are adaptable to many applications. We offer various sizes of seeding and propagation cubes and plugs, blocks and slabs. The most important characteristic of all formed rockwool lies in the fact it allows growers to quickly respond to fluctuations in the plant's rooting environment. The rockwool being an inert media means that rockwool fibers do not modify or restrict the availability of nutrient to the plants. Due to this zero Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC), the material can be leached of all fertilizer "salts." In addition to this, rockwool possesses a near-zero absorption capacity for water, thus allowing more water to be available to the plants when compared to production in soilless media. Of the total amount of nutrient solution applied to a rockwool slab, only 2% is unavailable for plant uptake. Organic media such as peat moss and sawdust, possess a 65% water holding capacity and nearly 4-8% of the nutrient solution is absorbed to the colloidal structure of the material and hence is unavailable to the plants. Due to the unique pore structure of the rockwool, it can safely receive large volumes of nutrient solution without leaving it water logged. After excessive soaking, the slab, block or cube will drain sufficiently, in a short period of time, so that 40-50% of the pore space is occupied by air. Deliberate leaching of the slab with excessive nutrient solution can be used as a management tool to control crop health and maintain optimum growing conditions in the root zone.


Multiblocks are designed for seed and cutting propagation prior to "blocking on" into the larger growing blocks. Multiblocks are a free standing module type growing system. The V-shaped individual "cells" within a multiblock sheet allow effective air pruning. this encourages rooting within, rather than between, individual blocks. All multiblocks come in 1.4" blocks and fit in a standard 10x20 propagation flat.


Miniblocks are used for seed and cutting propagation also like the multiblocks. The difference between the two are the Miniblocks are square and are wrapped in white UV resistant plastic on four sides which helps maintain moisture. These blocks may also be transferred into larger Growblocks by tearing off the plastic and sliding them into the pre-cut holes in the top of the Growblocks. The Miniblocks come in convenient bags consisting of two strips containing 15 blocks per strip.


Growblocks are used for direct sowing or "blocking on" of Multiblock and Miniblock raised plants. Just root or sprout in the smaller blocks and transplant into larger blocks once the roots begin to become exposed and the plants will root right into the larger blocks. The blocks are individually wrapped in UV resistant white plastic on four sides and supplied in convenient tear away strips. The base of the Growblocks are grooved to promote uniform and complete drainage preventing the occurrence of root rot. If the plant begins to become root bound in one of these Growblocks you can either place the block right on top of a slab and let the plant root into the slab, or you can stack the cubes on top of each other. These come in a wide variety of sizes ranging from 3" side to 4" wide and up to 4" tall. These Growblocks work excellent in all ebb and flow or drip hydroponic systems. All Growblocks are sold in packages containing strips of blocks which vary in the amount of blocks according to the size of the Growblock.


Slabs are the premium product for vegetable cropping. They are available wrapped in UV resistant polyethylene sleeves for ease of use. The special structure provides a uniform environment allowing plant roots to rapidly explore all the available growing volume for a quick start. Water and nutrient distribution is also more uniform and provides a larger effective rooting volume than previously possible. Slabs come in 36" lengths and 3" heights and have two different sizes of widths. The 6" slab is suitable for crops that do not tend to require a very large root capacity. The 8" slab is mainly for extremely vigorous crops such as cucumbers that require a strong and stable base and a large root capacity. The Slabs are easy to use just cut holes in the top of the slab set your cubes on top and cut a few slits in the bottom of the slab's plastic for drainage.


Granulated Rockwool can be used alone in pots or as an amendment to organic based mixes. Water absorbent granulates can be used as a substitute for peat in media where the peat breaks down rapidly such as in orchids and bromeliad production or in cases where disease transmission in peat is rapid. The addition of water absorbent granulate to peat mixes at 20-50% volume increases water holding capacity and aeration, improving plant growth and shelf life. It is recommended for use alone or mixed with water repellent granulates, depending on the air/water ration required. The water repellent granulates are substituted for aerators such as perlite and styrofoam. Granulated rockwool will not break up under severe soil mixing the perlite or vermiculite do and it can withstand the heat of sterilization under conditions that melt styrofoam. We sell a 30 lb bale of a 50/50 mix of both absorbent and repellent mixes.

 

[00420]

Hydroponics, gardening

Hydroponics, gardening

A hydroponic garden can be as simple as a plant in a pot filled with rock or some other type of inert growing media, that is watered by hand. The water must contain the elements required for plant growth that the plant doesn't get from the air. Water mixed with these elements is called the "nutrient solution".

The elements required for a nutrient solution are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium, Sulfur, Iron, Manganese, Copper, Zinc, Molybdenum, Boron, and Chlorine. Off the shelf soil fertilizers don't contain all the elements, in the right proportions, to make a hydroponic nutrient solution. Only quality hydroponic nutrient formulas contain all the elements required.

A nutrient formula can be made from scratch with a little knowledge of chemistry and what chemical form the elements should be in. But that is beyond the scope of this discussion. We will be adding a link to a book on this topic in the future.

Watering a hydroponic garden by hand may be impractical with more than a couple of plants or with a growing medium like rock that will dry out in a few hours. Most hydroponic gardens have a "hydroponic system" that is automated with pumps and timers to do the work for you.

Most hobby growers like to experiment with different types of hydroponic systems, often building them from parts. Here is a few of the most common systems with a brief description.

Flood/Drain system
A plastic tray filled with plants (usually in pots), on top of a reservoir filled with nutrient solution. A pump in the reservoir is connected to the bottom of the tray. When the pump turns on, the tray fills with water. When the pump turns off, the water runs back down through the pump into the reservoir. The tray must be above the top of the reservoir so gravity pulls the water back down. An overflow fitting must be added in the tray to regulate the depth of the flood. When the water level reaches the top of the overflow, it runs back into the reservoir. The pump can be turned on with a timer. A system like this usually waters 3-4 times a day.

Drip system
Drip systems can use a number of different types of containers but the operation is usually very similar. The nutrient solution is stored in a reservoir. A pump in the reservoir has tube connected to it that runs up to the base of the plant. The tube may branch off to smaller tubes feeding many plants. It works just like a drip irrigation system in your yard. In fact, you can use most of the parts available for drip irrigation systems like drippers, stakes, tubing and fittings. If the nutrient solution is going to be recovered, the containers should be above the reservoir so gravity can do the return work for you. If not, the system becomes more complex with another pump to return the water. Of course you don't need to recover the nutrient solution at all, it could just run off. This may not be the best setup if it's in your extra bedroom. Some drip systems run continuously, others are on a timer.

Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) system
The NFT system starts like a drip system, it has a reservoir with a pump. The pump has a tube that branches off to smaller tubes to feed the plants. But, the plants are watered at the roots. The plants are setup in troughs like rain gutters. The trough has a cover with round or square holes cut out for each plant. The holes are spaced correctly for the crop. The plants are growing in small plastic baskets about 2 inches across, filled with rock or rockwool. The baskets are placed in the holes in the cover of the trough. Some systems don't use baskets just a cube of rockwool or similar growing material. The water comes in the trough at one end and drains out the other. Most of the roots will fill the bottom of the trough. The goal with this system is to get just enough water flowing all the time to keep the roots wet and also keep them exposed to the air to get the extra Oxygen. It works quite well when setup and maintained correctly.

Aeroponic system
An aeroponic system looks like an NFT system but works a bit different. The plants are growing in small plastic baskets that are placed in holes cutout along the top of a tube. The roots grow down into the tube. The tube is filled with water by a much smaller tube running along the inside of the large tube. The small tube has holes cut every 6 inches or so to let the water come out. At the end of the large tube is an overflow just like the Flood/drain system that regulates the depth of the water. The large tube remains half-filled with water. The trick with this system is to have a high-pressure pump so the water coming out of the small tube sprays, oxygenating the water in the large tube. The pump should run all the time.

 

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How to Choose a Grow Light

How to Choose a Grow Light

How much area are you looking to light?

The best place to start is to figure out the square footage of the area you are trying to light. For high-light plants like tomatoes you will want to achieve around 50-100 watts per square foot for optimal growth and fruit production. When figuring your area don't necessarily go by the actual size of the room. You will want to measure only the plant area that you will be growing in. In other words, if the grow room is 5 x 5, but you will only be growing in a 3 x 3 area there is no reason to get a light big enough for the whole room. Using that as an example, you have a 3 x 3 growing area so you must figure out how many watts you will require to light that area. We will be growing tomatoes so we will want to achieve 50-100 watts per square foot.

Width x Depth = Square Feet 3 x 3 = 9 sq. ft.
Watts x Square Feet = Desired Wattage 50 x 9 = 450 watts

We will just round the 450 watts up to 600 watts. So, we know that we will be in the market for a 600 watt grow light...

Should I Purchase a High Pressure Sodium or Metal Halide Grow Light?

Traditionally gardeners would use the Metal Halide fixtures for vegetative growth and the High Pressure Sodium (HPS) fixtures for flowering. According to some gardeners, flower volume and fruit weight can increase by as much as 20 percent when using HPS lights for flowering. But, Metal Halide is a very balanced spectrum and works very well for leafy vegetables like lettuce and herbs. Many growers will use the Metal Halide spectrum for vegetative growth and switch to HPS for the flowering cycle. In recent years switchable ballasts have been introduced in 400 watt and 1000 watt configurations, which allow you to run a HPS or Metal Halide bulb off of the same ballast. Since we will be growing tomatoes which spend most of their time flowering, we will go with the High Pressure Sodium system.

So, we will be looking to purchase a 600 High Pressure Sodium system.

Which Reflector Should I Get and Why?

The reflector is the most important part of a grow light. This will be the deciding factor in the amount of light reflected upon the plants and how uniform the light is. You want to have an even distribution of light over the entire growing area. Horizontal reflectors are the most efficient reflectors and are the most popular. A horizontal lamp position increases light up to 40 percent over a lamp burning in the vertical position. Smaller reflectors reflect light at a higher intensity because the light does not have to travel as far before it is reflected. Then you must factor in the size and shape of your garden. For those people who have a large garden with low light plants the larger reflectors may be a better choice. For our 3 x 3 garden with tomato plants we will go with a small reflector to get the maximum amount of light on the plants. Almost all of the lights we carry have air-cooling flanges and tempered glass as add-ons to your grow light. Air-cooling makes keeping your grow room cooler easy, by exhausting the heat emitted by the bulb before it escapes the reflector.

 

[Verite]

Where the faq on how to assemble faq threads? One thread with a bunch of loosely related subjects isnt exactly going to be the boon the crowd was looking for.

Until some organization is brought to it I suggest peeps use the cleverly designed search engine.