LED FAQ) Building and DIY

[exploziv]

Wire gauge should fit the input amperage, add one size for precaution.

Wire on the AC circuit should fit the input max amps, but those on the DC side should be calculated for DC circuits and can and usually will need thicker wire, because amps are what matters, even if lower overall power. The 80% load rule is a good one for continously running circuits as well. You have the need for 10A, you just size it for 12.5A or higher and so on.

 

[xet]

My opinion is you have a lot to learn before you should play with electricity.

I am not "playing" with electricity and you should stop replying to me.

 

[xet]

Resistance is a nice easy answer for how 10amps can output 62.5 amps or 15.7 amps but it is more complicated than that and very capable of being more complicated than that and my aim is to understand each of the parts in the driver and over the next two to three years model a better driver and have that better driver manufactured. There are some obvious upgrades all drivers can undergo day one but a completely new creature is the goal here.

Being I have had hold of 1956 total watts of my LED's and drivers for 5 years now I am obviously not in a hurry to plug anything in.

My LED is a tri-band novelty and that what was why this project started.

One of the nanometer wavelengths cost 300% more to manufacture than the other 2 wavelengths combined because of a rare earth mineral used in the manufacturing process.

If I could learn faster I wouldn't be on here being insulted by nobodies.

And when this project wraps up it will be a 3912 watt LED light show so I am only halfway into this necessarily and still not close to plugging anything in.

 

[xet]

 

[Three Berries]

Ha. You branch circuit is similar to what I have going outside to my shed. It's a 2 wire 10 ga 240v 30 amp coming off the main breaker panel, then going to another small two circuit breaker panel that I added dual breakers to. So 4-30 amp possible circuits ( not to be used all at once of course). About a 100 ft run. I also have my generators out there and use that to backfeed into the house panel in emergencies.

Input says 10 amps, then 16-14 ga is what to use to the light from the final switch.. The DC output needs bigger due to the 30a but if it is short and the wires exposed to air a lot smaller wire than what would be used in walls or conduit. Generally you can downsize one or two gauges based on length. 30A can use 14 ga if the wire is exposed for the DC.

Working with 10ga wire is a PITA.

 

[xet]

My brain is so tired.
For prototype 1 I am likely to isolate 1 cob for 1 unit and use my 30Amp dryer receptacle to plug in a [3 prong dryer to 6-20R adapter] as my plug for connecting a 240v hydrofarm 6-15P 16/3 with 3 terminals on the end to connect to the PSU.
At least I know this works and I can continue studying everything electrical as time goes on and my system becomes more complex and requires that knowledge later on.
My parts list is heavy enough as it is since I cannot avoid buying parts for essentially a workstation which could output a couple hundred units once I have my 800pc set of heatshrink wrap etc etc etc small screws, , all that basic stuff that if I were to go the sub-panel right now I'm looking at another $800 vs get it safely plugged on an existing plug minimizing parts and my own labor for only another $200

 

[xet]

Right now it feels like a sort of endless learning curve for every single item.

does https://www.amazon.com/10-30P-T-Blade-adapter-3-Prong-Adapter/dp/B081NNSFZS really match with https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055F541K/ etc etc etc

and I go rooting around for a page like this that confirms my answer https://shop.worldcordsets.com/shop/reference-materials/nema-reference-guide#6p

 

[Three Berries]

The one thing to remember is the fuse or breaker device should be set to protect the wiring, not necessarily the devices being supplied. You can down rate them.

Nothing in my house has 10 ga wire for an individual circuit. AC, electric oven and well pump are all wired for 240 single phase and 20A circuits using 12 ga wire. The well really doesn't need it but instead of 10 amps on one wire I get 5 amps on two. Less startup surge.

 

[xet]

Here is the Meanwell tech email.
View attachment 18748471

Is it a simple matter of addition, 10a + 10a = 20a for 2 PSU?

I am still wanting to understand how current amplification works.

I am wondering this:

If the input is 10amps and the output is 27.8amps then is the total draw on the entire circuit 27.8 amps back to the sub-panel or does the current amplification from 10a to 27.8 only occur at the PSU therefore the total draw at the sub-panel is only 10amps?

I realize the question sounds redundant but redundancy is being my best teacher in this new field. But I don't understand current amplification and I am definitely not finding the right search terms for literature on the topic. By redundant I mean 10amp input, 16AWG Input, what could be more explicit on what to use, but I am looking for the understanding of the mechanisms producing a 27.8a output and as far as I can tell it is something to do with transistors, collected current.
View attachment 18748470

Is the tech saying that all of the wire shown here can be 18 AWG for this 2 PSU 240V setup?

 

[xet]

Dimming With The Mean Well HLG & ELG LED Drivers | Australia's LED Power and Lighting Control Specialists

The MEAN WELL HLG 'B' & 'AB' series, and ELG ‘B’ & 'AB' series LED drivers utilise a common dimming method, where the amplitude of the current fed to the LEDs is varied.This method of dimming works very well, but there is a key factor that you need to be aware of, when selecting a LED driver for...

www.led-drivers.com.au

Is this pretty standard practice setup for ensuring on/off of the LED unit?

 

[Three Berries]

How many amp output are the drivers?

Dimming With The Mean Well HLG & ELG LED Drivers | Australia's LED Power and Lighting Control Specialists

The MEAN WELL HLG 'B' & 'AB' series, and ELG ‘B’ & 'AB' series LED drivers utilise a common dimming method, where the amplitude of the current fed to the LEDs is varied.This method of dimming works very well, but there is a key factor that you need to be aware of, when selecting a LED driver for...

www.led-drivers.com.au

Is this pretty standard practice setup for ensuring on/off of the LED unit?
View attachment 18757971

I assume you PS put out 25-32A? How many lights off one driver or what is the load per light? Depends on the length and wire type insulation but 10 ga out to the 25A load.

If I had more than 15A AC load total I would use a relay. Most switches are rated at 15A.. Quality of switches is rather broad, just because it's rated at 15A doesn't really reflect the quality and lifetime the switch has. Never bad to use relays but they complicate things.

 

[exploziv]

He just needs to handle 2 x 3.9A (~8A) @ 230VAC on the input side. 1.5mm2 or equivalent would be enaugh for that, with all the reserves and precautions. A simple switch will handle 10A as well, as that is what they are designed to work on 230-240VAC systems. A good relay would do it as well, properly sized.

 

[xet]

How many amp output are the drivers?

I assume you PS put out 25-32A? How many lights off one driver or what is the load per light? Depends on the length and wire type insulation but 10 ga out to the 25A load.

If I had more than 15A AC load total I would use a relay. Most switches are rated at 15A.. Quality of switches is rather broad, just because it's rated at 15A doesn't really reflect the quality and lifetime the switch has. Never bad to use relays but they complicate things.

1 708w light per 1 750w PSU

I have quite a lot more studying to do to fully understand the relay. What a complicated device. They can be used to amplify current or switch it on and off, fascinating.

Presuming I am going for a straight plugin like in the above double PSU installation manual, is the tech saying I can do 18 AWG all the way for the input current? Or is it something like soldering the 18 AWG fed off the PSU onto 14 AWG wire coming from the mains+breaker? I was about to order wire last night and realized This double PSU setup is the way to go for me so I backed out to resolve this and maybe, hopefully, could place my order today for all my last gear and hopefully in a week or two you guys (and gals?) see a cool light show, i've sat on this project for 5 years now so it literally is no rush but it's beginning to need to be

 

[Three Berries]

700w isn't much to get excited about. 14 ga from outlet to PS is plenty for 120v., 6A load. Same with a switch. Your timer is a relay. 10ga Service cord will work for the PS to lamp.

 

[xet]

I am pretty excited about an $800 cob that took me 2.5 years to design and 6 months for engineers to manufacture. I have other designs and sizes too. All in all 5 cobs right now. Might do them all for a 1956 watt light. Been searching for another manufacturer for 2 years now who is skilled on exact kelvin temperature lights. If so the application will be a 3912 watt light. Will see. They all scale at the factory, larger or smaller.. It's about the nanometers and photosynthesis. 30% faster growth than whatever everyone else is doing with LED's right now. About a dozen designs with a few dozen separate designs to correct current designs. It's a really long term project. I need an electrician's education. I'll take the project offline for now, thanks for everyone's input.

 

[xet]

This is an expensive hobby. You electricians are nuts. https://www.amazon.com/INDUSTRIES-61-076-Solenoid-Voltage-Vibration/dp/B000BVKUSA

 

[xet]

Is this chart right?

So if I had to run a 240v 15a receptacle circuit 50 feet with 3 receptacles on the end then I would run #12 and hook it up to my 3 receptacles and then plug in my 3 devices which have their own #16 or #12 or #18 plug/cord

 

[exploziv]

Any table like that that doen't give acceptable losses % is incomplete.. You would be way better by calculating your own table, than using something thats incomplete and calculated for an example or other project.

 

[xet]

Do you like a calculator like this? https://www.electrical4u.net/calculator/cable-power-loss-calculator-formula-calculation/

 

[xet]

I did 240v 10a circuit breaker on a copper circuit at 50 feet and came up with 6% loss which at a 6.4a total draw still makes #16 fit