Leaves changing color 5 weeks into flower

[MdNewgrower]

So, I am now at 5 weeks and 1 day since 12/12. My leaves on the upper 1/3 of both plants are really discoloring, although each is different. Each is in original Dr. Earth soil, being fed FF Tiger Bloom, with a touch of Dr Seedlingers Plant Elyxir .

1st plant has lots of yellowing and rust colored fan leaves as seen in the 1st 2 pics. CalMag maybe?

Second plant has gotten bright, yellowish tinted, kind of faded, as seen in the second 2 pics.

Any thoughts? Suggestions? I'd hate to get this far and really screw the pooch.

 

[mango420]

You've got multiple problems going on. What strengh of feed are you giving them? What ph? How often are you feeding them? What size pots?

 

[MdNewgrower]

I figured as much.

I am feeding at slighty be below the recommended strengths for both. 1.5 cap of Tiger Bloom, and 1/2 cap Dr Seedlingers per 2 liter bottle of water.

Haven't tested the ph, but per online sources should be about 6.5ish (always been "Acadia" (store brand) bottled water.)

They are each in 1.5 gallon sub irrigated containers, each fed about 1 liter of water every other day.

 

[Vanilla Phoenix]

What's your ec and pH of your nute solution?

If I had to take a guess with no actually info, I'd say overfert. And there is obvious light bleaching on pics 3 and 4.

I tried using Foxfarm nutes years back and hated them, personally.

 

[Lycof]

To me, those pics are screaming root aphids. Don't take my word for it though.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

To me, those pics are screaming root aphids. Don't take my word for it though.

The timing would be about right for root aphids. I agree.

 

[MdNewgrower]

Ok, I can't check for aphids until this evening, but when I can, how do I do so, and if they are present, how do I get rid of them?

Not sure what "ec" is.

I get the bleaching part, and can reduce the lighting directly above the affected buds by removing a couple of bulbs, but don't have room to increase the distance between plants and lights.

Also, I realized last night that I have only ever checked temps at soil level, which has been running 80ish. Last night I put the thermometer at canopy level, and it's running close to 100, so I definitely need a circulation fan, which i am going to pick up today.

 

[iloveweed123]

Ok, I can't check for aphids until this evening, but when I can, how do I do so, and if they are present, how do I get rid of them?

Not sure what "ec" is.

I get the bleaching part, and can reduce the lighting directly above the affected buds by removing a couple of bulbs, but don't have room to increase the distance between plants and lights.

Also, I realized last night that I have only ever checked temps at soil level, which has been running 80ish. Last night I put the thermometer at canopy level, and it's running close to 100, so I definitely need a circulation fan, which i am going to pick up today.

Total Dissolved Solids is a measurement of the nutrient concentration in hydroponic solutions. You can buy meters that measure EC ( Electrical Conductivity ) of your nutes and convert it to TDS in ppm ( parts per million )

Hope that helps

 

[MdNewgrower]

Total Dissolved Solids is a measurement of the nutrient concentration in hydroponic solutions. You can buy meters that measure EC ( Electrical Conductivity ) of your nutes and convert it to TDS in ppm ( parts per million )

Hope that helps

It helps, thanks. But I am using soil, not hydroponics, so never even thought about "ec". Nor am I gonna buy some kit that I likely won't have use for ever again(I plan on sticking with soil for the foreseeable future.).

 

[iloveweed123]

It helps, thanks. But I am using soil, not hydroponics, so never even thought about "ec". Nor am I gonna buy some kit that I likely won't have use for ever again(I plan on sticking with soil for the foreseeable future.).

Don't matter soil or hydro, by hydroponic solution i meant water

 

[MdNewgrower]

Don't matter soil or hydro, by hydroponic solution i meant water

Gotcha.

Still not spending $75 plus for a test kit. Thanks, though.

 

[.357 mag]

spend 20 on drops with the ph up and down
general hydro
then test your run off so ya know what the plants r doing

an ec meter ya could get by without
ph ya need and a cheap ec tds meters about 30

iffa ya wanna grow fire ya should consider it

itsa a tool knda like a carpenters hammer ya aint gonna put a nail in without it

ya dont grow plants like this without a hammer lol
choice is urs at the end of the day

 

[iloveweed123]

Gotcha.

Still not spending $75 plus for a test kit. Thanks, though.

That's ok, but they're well worth the investment if you ever have a bit of spare cash

 

[.357 mag]

ecup ph down = to rich

ec down ph up= to lean
ya want the sweetspot ph stays the same as well as ec slite variences not extreme
its not rocket science
would ya put diesal or race fuel in your car or gas
or perhaps guess like ur doing

half a capfull of this or that means crap iffa ya dont know what the plants doing or wanting
should be a little nicer to someone giving ya good str8 advice

 

[MdNewgrower]

Sorry, life kept me away for a day or two.

I didn't mean to come across ungrateful for any and all advice offered, but I currently do not have the cash to invest in test kits, etc. Right now, this is , I guess you could say a "test run" on the first grow, so I am most interested in keeping the plants alive and growing with the least effort as a proof of concept. I already know some things that I will need to improve the grow on the next grow.

So far, I am cutting back the nutes by half, reduced the lighting over the most bleached looking buds, and added a touch of molasses. Picking the fan up tomorrow, and also going to pick up ph test strips.

 

[iloveweed123]

Sorry, life kept me away for a day or two.

I didn't mean to come across ungrateful for any and all advice offered, but I currently do not have the cash to invest in test kits, etc. Right now, this is , I guess you could say a "test run" on the first grow, so I am most interested in keeping the plants alive and growing with the least effort as a proof of concept. I already know some things that I will need to improve the grow on the next grow.

So far, I am cutting back the nutes by half, reduced the lighting over the most bleached looking buds, and added a touch of molasses. Picking the fan up tomorrow, and also going to pick up ph test strips.

You didnt sound ungrateful,well too me anyway. I only gave you a answer and a recommendation about the spare cash as everyone has to start somewhere and it doesnt come cheap. Keep at it

 

[Space Case]

Looks like Na toxicity, which is also causing a K deficiency. How is your source water? Dirty? Do you at least know the EC of that?

Soil EC is a measurement they use in field agriculture, both conventional and organic. Commercial bag soils often come with a high salt content. Soil is both a colloid and a solution. The soil solution is what the roots take up elements from. You are merely using the tools available. You aren't going to suddenly turn into some terrible hydroponic Monsanto grower because of using the available tools.

 

[closetdreams]

I'm a novice grower, and recently posted about thinking I'd accidentally pickled my plants - because the leaves rapidly started yellowing at week 5 after I switched out the lightbulbs. Turns out it was probably/definitely heatstroke because I'd left the doors closed.

If you measured 100° in the air by the canopy, yeah... it's waaay too hot in there.

Definitely get a ph testing kit, and test your solution AFTER you add the nutrients. The nutrients totally change the ph of the water. My tap and RO water are very basic, and after adding the nutrients they get very acidic. PH is super important whether in soil or hydro. I think the only difference between soil and hydro watering is soil gets full strength solutions through the week, and hydro gets full strength reservoir changes and half-strength top offs during the week.

I also am using the Fox Farms line of products, but pretty much just the basic Big Bloom, Grow Big, Tiger Bloom. I have almost all their other additives too, but the guy I inherited them from said they're not really that important - but I still make sure to add 2 drops of the Sledgehammer per gallon to help prevent nutrient lockup.

 

[closetdreams]

Oh, and this is the ph test kit stuff I use:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Test-Kit-Ounce/dp/B000BT32UA

It's $36 for the ph test stuff, and both the up/down additives. Once you get the hang of adding the down to the acidic solutions you won't use much (if any) of the up stuff. One pipette (2ml) of nutrient solution and one drop of the test liquid is enough to figure out where your ph is at, so that $7 part of the kit will last well over a year when you're a small closet grower (only 3-4 plants) like me. The $16 bottle of down solution should also last you through several grows.

 

[bsgospel]

I concur with some others here- there are multiple things going on. Heavy nutes, maybe eating up your Cal/causing N imbalance, some very real heat near your tops....

The Tiger Bloom even in small doses can build up. I've fried a plant or two with it even going at the recommended rate Fewer times over the life of the plant. My feeling is that you have to have a fair root mass to deal with its strength continuously. It might not be ideal in a microgrow/quick veg setting/using LED's with relatively lesser negative pressure draw despite your watts. You could use this recipe again with a different light/longer veg time and find you get a much better result.

(And do a quick check for root bugs while you're at it )