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Leaf damage. Gnats?

kubrickhal

New member
Hello.

I have two hopefully unrelated questions. The first are pictures of a plant with what I think is insect damage. The grow is indoors but I have seen gnats in the box and I assume that they are eating the plants. Regardless I have to kill them, but I just want to check that people dont think its something else causing the damage. Thanks for looking, this is my first grow and my first real question about it so far.











My second question is about my bigger plant. The bottom leaves are yellowing but it looks completely different than the other plant above. I wonder if its a lighting issue? Its very bushy and I wonder if the bottom leaves just are getting shaded?




Thanks again.
 

Sleepy

Active member
Veteran
need more details

need more details

fungus gnat larvae eat roots...if you have flying gnats, you also have eggs and larvae...Gnatrol and/or Neem and less frequent watering will kill the gnats/interrupt the cycle...

best to identify the problem correctly, first though.

>whats in the soil?
>pH of water you use?
>pH of runoff?
>what are you feeding the plant?
>how often?

i would guess the pH is out of range, but if you have flying gnats, you gotta fix that, too.

can you get a better close up of the leaf damage?

oh yeah, Welcome to ICMAG.com!!! :woohoo:
 
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Rodriguez

Member
i would check ph and nute levels first as ive lived with black fungus gnats for years and they have never eaten my leaf matter that i have noticed.

that first pic to me looks like ph issues, the second yellowing pic just looks hungry and maybe a little overwatered.
 

kubrickhal

New member
Thanks for the comments. I havent gotten a ph level finder yet. The tap water in my area is really good but now I think I'll get one just in case.

As it turns out the damaged plant is showing some male tendecies so I've removed it. Oddly enough I caught a spider in the box who appears to have taken care of the flying gnat issue. Hopefully with removing that plant and Charlotte taking care of the flying buggers I'll be rid of that. I havent seen any of them in 2 days.

I usually water twice a day as the climate inside the box tends to dry the soil quickly(I did get a soil moisture reader), as well as mist the plants twice a day for the same reason. I am using Scotts potting soil and using fertilizer sticks, im not sure of the brand or exact description but will get it next time I post.

I read in someones post, can't remember which :joint: that blending chili peppers and water then straining, works to kill the larve and eggs but doesnt injure the plants with any chemical side effects. Has anyone used method similar to this of have any ideas non chemical that would work to kill the larve or eggs?

Thanks Sleepy for your advice also.

Thanks for stopping by and thanks in advance for any help.
 
G

Guest

Hey kubrick, I told you a while ago you needed the pH tester, even a crappy one just to have an idea around where your at. The leaves curing like that is definetly pH malfunction, you need to flush your plants. The way you do this is with a 3:1 ratio of pH adjusted water.

First and foremost go out to a pet store and buy pH nutralizer or pH 6.5 solution (which will automatically adjust your pH) Check it just incase its different. Then give you plants 3 times their bucket size. Ex: for a 1 Gallon bucket, run 3 gallons of water through it to flush it.

Problem number two, This could be a few things. Are you using ferted soil? I don't think you are, number two, they need to be transplanted! There getting way to big to be in those little cups. its very easy to do.

To transplant get your container(2liter bottle, 1 gal bucket, anything) Fill it up and dig a hole for the plant. Then take the cups and turn them upside down, hodl the plant between two fingers and tap on the bottle until the plant slides out. Then put it in the new bucket and give it a light watering of pH adjusted water,

These are a few essntials to do if something goes wrong.

I know these are the problems as I had the same ones when I started. Good luck and Ill come check em out sometime.
 
G

Guest

transplant man immediately !!! ,, those are the extreme sign's of Root-Bound

peace
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
Beat me too it Hallucinogen. That was what I was going to say. Also keep an eye on wind burn. If the cab is drying out the soil that quickly, then it is hot and dry in there which suggests lots of air movement (which is good) but if the air is quite warm and its constantly moving over leaves they can dry out and crisp up. Try to get the air flowing over the plants first then the light or get a second fan or just leve the doors open if you can.
 

kubrickhal

New member
Thanks all. I really appreciate it. Should have read a little more before I started, didnt think they would get so needy so quickly.

I think GMT nailed it. I have an air filter/circulator and the radiation from the light keeps the box warm. Then the warm air is blown around and crisping them. I think I have a mad idea to fix that, I'll keep you updated if it works and I look smart.

I also got some good advice on nutes for this stretch. Pure Blend Grow, Pure Blend Bloom and Earth Juice Bloom from BOGs masterful tutorial

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=4986&highlight=earth juice

The Ph stabalizer I'll pick up tomorrow. Hell I might pass for a grower one day.

I'll update after I flush and repot which hopefully will be tomorrow.

Thanks for the replies
 

Rodriguez

Member
heh i might pass for a grower one day too mate but for now im still in the torture category, you should have seen some of my learning curbs, this poor plant has put up with me like nothing else, she is hard to displease and is very forgiving, im sure she will look after you and still produce you some fine ass herb, good luck :sasmokin:
 
G

Guest

kubrickhal said:
Thanks all. I really appreciate it. Should have read a little more before I started, didnt think they would get so needy so quickly.

I think GMT nailed it. I have an air filter/circulator and the radiation from the light keeps the box warm. Then the warm air is blown around and crisping them. I think I have a mad idea to fix that, I'll keep you updated if it works and I look smart.

I also got some good advice on nutes for this stretch. Pure Blend Grow, Pure Blend Bloom and Earth Juice Bloom from BOGs masterful tutorial

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=4986&highlight=earth juice

The Ph stabalizer I'll pick up tomorrow. Hell I might pass for a grower one day.

I'll update after I flush and repot which hopefully will be tomorrow.

Thanks for the replies
just my opinion .. but if it was .. what you say .. the whole plant would be crisp .. especially the tops ,, where the foliage is still very soft & fresh

but it could be .. you never know ..
 

Verite

My little pony.. my little pony
Veteran
Rodriguez said:
... you should have seen some of my learning curbs...

M3%20Curb%20Marks.jpg
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
No worries Hal,
Halluginogen, clearly not a problem you suffer from, but when it occurs, it is a real pisser. It'll take a leaf a week to 10 days to start showing wind burn signs, and then just gets worse until the prob is removed. This tends to keep the newly forming leaves at the top of the plant looking healthy, as if it was a nute problem that has been fixed. Really frustrating until you cure the prob.
 
G

Guest

Wind burn ....believe me my friend it has happened to me many times .. growing here in the most southern part of europe ( just above Libya & Egypt )

when those southern winds blow from Libya & Egypt temp goes to 43 cel ,, plants growing in pots even put under the shade are toast in 1 day man

mother nature has killed off alot of premo genetics i had this way

but it just seems to me that .. Kub's problem is more of a rootbound problem

Kub thought it was gnats .. so he doesn't know what to believe .. and i think he is just going by what ever sounds good to him ..just my 2 cents

only 3 things can cause what ever he's got ... nute burn ... rootbound ... and wind burn ... its his job to figure out what exactly he's got

peace
 
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G

Guest

kubrickhal said:
I am using Scotts potting soil and using fertilizer sticks, im not sure of the brand or exact description but will get it next time I post.


Definitely lose the fertilizer sticks, IMO!!!!!!
 
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GIO

Member
definatley loose the fert sticks..they usually for trees. what i can see is 3 things going on .....the color washout is from early overwatering,the lower crust is nut burn and hell yea...the height of the plant says you need to hurry up and transplant. may take up to couple weeks for plant to recover from transplant. matter fact dont even use nuts for a few weeks....most fresh potting mixes have plenty nuts for your plants. peace g.
 

kubrickhal

New member
Thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it all.

The repot went well.

As it stands now the only problem is with discoloration on the bigger plant. The little ones healed and are showing no ill effects which is making me lean back toward bugs. I havent seen anything in there since last saturday. So now my only issue is the discoloration which I am hoping will pass with repoting and adjusting the ph.

I'll hold off on adding any nutes for a while Gio.

This setback will only make me stronger and her daughters will remember the sacrifice their mother made for me and mine.

Pictures to follow.
 

GIO

Member
hey bro sorry didnt get rite back to ya. sounds like your on way to recovery now..just give some time for plants to heal them self. couple more tips: if your in cold climate ?watch the soil temps..try to keep soil about 60*+ to promote good root growth and uptake. once you notice the plants standing tall again..cut off any old necrotic leaves(the burned,crunchy ones) they wont grow back and divert energy from the rest of the plant. stay easy on the nuts ! 1/4 stregth when ya start back up.
peace bro...keep us informed. G.
 

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