Leaf Curl Troubles-------

[Santa1949]

As I posted in Organic Soil, I am new to soil and wanted to try..
I am a DWC person......

Using "Roots Organic" in 1 gal pots, indica from bag seed, 18/6, 3X2X5 tent, 400W HP 18" from plants.....

Soil 6.3 ph, water/nutes 5.7ph - 6.2ph... 39 days young....

Thought I Over nuted 11 days ago, flushed with h2o 7 days ago because plant D2, D3 had leaf curl..... gave h2o only 3 days ago at 5.8ph neither had much leaf curl.....

Today 7:30am CDT USA

D1 is 8" and pot is full and green...
D2 is 6" and filling pot green (Light curl)
D3 is 5" and pot is full and green (1/8' curl on 1/5th of leaves drooping......

Fan leaf on each 3 1/2" Good plants
Stalk 5/16" to 1/2" cir...

Gave each plant h2o @ 5.8 - 6.0ph 1.5 qt with little leach on 1 & 2, but D3 leached 1/2 cup

Humidity @ 34 - 42
Temp @ 74 - 83

Should I worry about D3 or just keep a good Eye???

Was using Budda Grow at 1/4% and went to 1/2% and think this could cause the curl.....

Also am woundering when to start flower.........container is 9" tall with 6.5" bottom plants heights stated above

63" height minus 11" for light and exhuast lines = 52" minus 9" pot equal 43" thinking plant height about 10/12"

thanx for your knowledge

 

[Friend]

Pictures would really help..... are they curling upward? or down?

 

[Santa1949]

rolling to the inside.....

Lights affect my camera and could not take any.......next time I will remove from tent and use a different camera......at work at this moment

 

[Santa1949]

No tip burn or browning

 

[Avinash.miles]

so leaf curl down is "the claw"
leaf curl up is "canoeing"
thats my vocab, wassup? no pics?

 

[Santa1949]

Canoeing......

Just asking advise

 

[Santa1949]

I'm just a down home farm boy, no card, grow from bag....Live the no see, no tell.....

Afraid of the mail, the man and all my friends passed on in Vietnam.......82nd Airborne - 11B4P

sorry.....
do not want to inconvinence anyone

 

[Friend]

if the leaves are taco-ing up in a canoe shape, they are most likely upset about being way too hot.... some plants like mild temps, and even 83F is enough to cause heat stress sometimes.

to answer your other question, with your current amount of vertical space i would recommend flowering at around 12"

 

[Coba]

Santa1949,

Many reasons for leaf curl... please check the following quote from _____...

PLANT MOISTURE STRESS - symptoms and solutions...

Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems -> “Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!”, or, “My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?” Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell *exactly* what the culprit is, and unfortunately the “solution” the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis-diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I’ll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.

1. Over-fertilizing - the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant size, vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. Sometimes copper colored necrotic spots show in the leaf also. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (or in the root medium) compared to lower salinity levels found in the plant’s tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the ppm imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root’s epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips and hairs, which then creates another set of problems such as nutrient deficiencies. A note for the bio folks - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. Leach (flush) your pots once in a while to get rid of excess salts.

2. High Heat - the plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling (up or down) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll in and the grass will take on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling by supplying sufficient moisture for good plant health. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant located near HID lamps. The damaged leaf (usually) does not recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.

3. High Light - yes, it’s true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, debris and dust collection on the leaf surface, twilight periods of early morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor growers. Again, back off on the light and concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system. Keep in mind that all but equatorial material receive less light during flowering than during the vegetative stage.

4. Overwatering - this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. IOW, the roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition causing root decline and root rot with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. <gasp!> Alot of times folks think the plant is not getting enough plant food (which it can't under such adverse conditions), they add more nutes for a "curative", and just add insult to injury.

5. Underwatering - not only is the plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic growers may need to soak the pot from the bottom up until moisture levels reach an even consistency throughout the medium especially with mixes that are heavy in peat. If severe, a little surfactant (liquid Ivory dish soap) added to the drench will help return the organics back to a normal moisture retentive state. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the sides of the pot or leaves droop before you water.

I hope you can figure it out... I'd start first by up-potting into fresh, quality soil then go from there.
HTH
Coba

 

[Avinash.miles]

no inconvinience at all,
off top of my head ill guess heat or low humidity because u say there is not much if any yellowing or browning on leaves, right?

 

[Santa1949]

Thanx, thats about what I thought, I should know this evening when the lights come back on after the 6 off.......if its heat or liquid....

enjoy a goooooooooooooood one

 

[SeaMaiden]

Without pix I'm going to suggest getting your relative humidity up.

In my experience with cannabis and other plant species, leaves canoeing UNDER is generally a sign of transpiration stress; i.e. they're trying to preserve moisture. It occurs most often when it's hot, but can occur when it's very cold as well (rhododendrons do this when it's cool).

In my opinion and experience with cannabis your girls will be much happier if you drive that RH up to at least 50%, my girls and I prefer it much higher, including during flowering (still need to experiment with low RH at the end of flowering).

 

[Santa1949]

I do reall think its the nute I upped, but I have now flushed and rewatered again after 3 days.......leaf droop on one plant.....
Heat is always a problem, but don't run light after 11:30am to 5:30pm use 6" thru light exhaust w/4' intake fresh air and 8: occ fan over tops....

If doesn't strighten out, my go ahead and repot to a wider, not taller pot system

thanx for your input.

 

[Santa1949]

Thanx SeaMaiden ---

Will truly consider...

 

[Santa1949]

Avinas.miles

Love your garden.....Thanx for the input