LC/Greencure: OD Disease Control Dangers!

[moondawg]

For the past few years, ive been fighting crop loss from multiple fungal diseases and the only help with my fight are the threads i read here. It inspired me to join. I learned about Liquid Copper as disease control from the sticky above. I used the LC with decent results and i used Greencure on some plants.

I have a friend that works in a lab and ive been trying to get my cured bud tested for some time and finally, her boss got the flu and she was able to test my bud for residue. I got the results yesterday.

Results:
High, dangerous concentrations of the Liqid Copper were present in the cured bud! She explained that smoking the bud wouldnt necessarily make one sick, but that copper is a heavy metal and will build up in the body with each joint smoked and once a toxic level had accumulated then illness would occur. Copper toxicity is very dangeous.

She also found significant concentrations of Greencure in the dried bud, but it isnt a heavy metal like the copper and is probably less threatening to the human body, but that there wasnt any research on the topic so effects are unknown.

This is terrible news for me and im back to square 1. It was over 30 days from my last treatment of LC and harvest. There has to be a safe way to kill this disease in plants that are smoked. Even though LC is safe to use on food crops, smoking the product is very different than eating it. Food crops are washed and cleaned.

Ive checked into fungicides for tobacco, but ive learned that it gets washed and cleaned as well.

Any alternatives from anyone before summer gets here and kills every plant i have?

 

[purple_man]

high bro! you could try using: strobulinulines... such as azaxystrobin or others for prevenetive measures, should help prevent different fungal disseases. it's analogues to strobulin a, an active compound off a pine tree, which protects it, against fungal infections. should be non toxic, and is used on different crops (vegetables, fruit, ...).

blessss

 

[Campfire]

I might be worried @ the copper build-up, but you might be able to actually eat the Greencure - it might even be good for indigestion. HOWEVER, I do NOT recommend doing that, of course. I ain't a doctor.

Greencure is similar to baking soda.

 

[harold]

i would never spray liquid copper on an edible plant, ive heard from people in the know that plants will sponge up all kinds of contaminants, washing is no good as it penetrates beyond the skin layer... copper is very toxic.

 

[harold]

i wouldnt be concerned about greencure though...

ive heard of absorbic acid being used against fungus. Please if people have more info to share with absorbic acid, dont be shy

 

[Campfire]

I read @ the ascorbic acid thing, but damned if I remember where. Maybe in the Tom Hill forum, now that I think about it - run 'ascorbic acid' through the search function, see what you get.

 

[zachrockbadenof]

i've used greencure... i have not a side/by side comparision, but it seems tobe useless in my very (very) humid end sept enviroment...

every plant we grew rotted.... i will not be using it again...

 

[LazLo]

Never tried the LC but have used Greencure. Last year the leaf spot fungus was challenging to say the least. I used 3% hydrogen peroxide with outstanding results. It was sprayed on and added to soil waterings. Saved my crop. Greencure was tried first and failed. I had only 1 wee spot of budrot and no caterpillars. Going with weekly spraying beginning in mid July this season.

 

[hamstring]

I wont pretend to be a biologist but not sure I completely understand the premise. LC has been used for many many years as a fungicide on many eatables so you would have thought something would have come out by now.

I agree that food and tobacco may be washed before processed but wouldn’t the heavy metals be brought into the plants systems so washing wouldn’t rid it of them completely. There I would assume this problem would have raised its head before.

Also in my research LC is a "leaf spot" control and for some reason leaf spot usually attacks prebud formation and when the buds are very small. Although there would still be some LC present but not like you are spraying it on large colas to protect from mold. I will admit I was thinking of using it in this regard but not anymore.

Again I have no evidence in my statements but have many questions on your friends premise. Does she have any other info she could provide to support this I would love to get a better understanding?

 

[harold]

I used 3% hydrogen peroxide with outstanding results. It was sprayed on and added to soil waterings. Saved my crop.

how much did you add? 1/2 teaspoon per gallon?


Canada was secretly eating GMO for 10 years without there knowledge, like lab rats! the truth accidently leaked out. Cancer coincidently shot up around that time too!
So much is hidden from the mass its incredible really... most food is drowned in arsenic as a pesticide, grapes and carrots are the worst, they wick it all up deep into the flesh.

I think the horrors of copper toxicity have been known by the few for a long time, but then isn't almost all truth only handled by a small percentage? I wouldnt trust any corporation selling a product, public relations was once known as 'the department of Propaganda', but propaganda got a bad rap so they changed the language.

I like the sound of hydrogen peroxide, i would be tempted to buy food grade and not from the hydro store as it contains pollutants you dont want to be eating or smoking.

 

[harold]

the wonders of hydrogen peroxide

http://www.drinkh2o2.com/

Hydrogen peroxide is produced by the body's T-cells for destroying bacteria, viruses and fungi. Blood platelets release hydrogen peroxide when they encounter particles in the blood stream. Microbes in the body, called peroxisomes, combine water with oxygen to produce hydrogen peroxide, when enough oxygen is available. Acidophilus lactobacillus bacteria produces hydrogen peroxide in the large intestine to stop candida yeast from multiplying out of control. Dr. Edward Carl Rosenow worked 60 years researching the medical uses of hydrogen peroxide at the Mayo Clinic.

please research this substance it really has wonderous healing qualities, especially for healing the lungs.... see the link.

 

[moondawg]

Thanks for the tip pupleman. Im looking into them


Hamstring, I believe the issue is a simple as the LC not being removed from the plant by the enviroment. It seems to be that unlike some chemicals and pesticides that nuetralize over time with exposure to air and light, LC never goes anywhere. Even if washed from the plant, its in the soil. The directions suggest that rain removes the LC and it must be re applied after rain. It could be that in the 30 days after spraying, i had only 2 rain events and both qualified as a "sprinkle". The results might have been different if the plants had actually been rained on.

Plus, every crop that LC is recommmended, Cauliflower, brochili and other plants get a serious, high pressure washing that removes bugs, dirt, leaves etc.

There are several labs in california that test some dispencery bud for contamination and im trying to contact them for discussion about Lc or other fungicides. I bet they know things that i dont. IM hoping for knowledge.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Hey hamstring, lazlo and other growbuddies!

I hope to hell that we dont have to spend another whole grow season fighting this shit.

moondawg, with my first harvested bud last fall, i twisted up a big fatty and concluded about the 3rd toke that i was smoking some of the nastiest, chem tasting shit i had ever put in my mouth. I felt the LC was all over the bud and i could taste it. I also had drought and in fact, my poor plants didnt see the first drop, so its possible that could have impacted the scenario as the label indicates that rain removes it from the vegetation..

As a result, i water cured any bud sprayed with it. This is essentially washing the weed and removes any remaining residue. The stuff works and water curing works so .....

My grow list has been reduced big time because of the disease. Its too hard to fight. MY sensi star is resistant to it and only catches it when surrounded by other infected plants. Even then, it doesnt defoliate or deteriorate as quickly as other strains with it. So, this year many of my sites will have only SS plants. I wont mix them at all. There have to be other strains that are resistant too, but ive grown 10 strains in the past 2 years and all had it but the star. Biddy E and GHS WW were the worst, Blue hash wasnt quick to catch it, but once it did have it the plants died in a hurry.

Purple Mans suggestion holds promise and is the rock im looking under at the moment.

 

[hamstring]

Hey DS nice to see you here and all the rest; moondawg, harold, lazlo, zach, campfire and purpleman.

What a timely topic as we all get ready for another season. Fighting mold is one thing but this F***ing leaf spot is a KILLER so any info is important.

Lazlo
How hard were you hit by leaf spot last season because it hit me hard and now that LC may be out of the picture i am scrambling for something that will work against it.


PLEASE tell me more about the hydrogen peroxide treatment you used??

How much per gallon??

When did you apply it end of July?? August??

How effective was it. I mean did it halt or just slow it down??

How often did you apply while fighting the leaf spot??

What type and where did you buy the hydrogen peroxide ??

Thanks

 

[Campfire]

Guess I'm lucky or something, but I've had plants go through some mighty slimy stretches of gooey weather, and virtually no mold. Maybe the Greencure is effective on the fungals endemic to my area, but not on yours. (?) Tom Hill says high calcium in the soil helps prevent mold on cannabis, something I do as well.

I want to move to western Costa Rica - got to be a mold-proof climate for buddage, but, I'm stuck in the rust-belt, for now.

Keep on trying different things, that's what Edison did.

 

[darby crash]

Whats up guys I can answer some of your H2O2 questions. The 3% solution is the over the counter type, and you would not need to dilute it any further. If your leaf spot disease is bacterial, then the 3% will take care of it. Mold too can be eliminated by using H2O2. If only i knew the difference when looking at em then I would truly be something. Its a great addition to your tool box because its easy to get,it easy to carry, and on the right pathogens it works well. Also wouldn't hurt to be proactive and spray it on before problems develop. One of the things Im working on this season is to more proactive. Good luck to everyone this season. Stay safe.

 

[hamstring]

Darby
Thanks for the input there is a sticky on leaf spot and pics if you want to see what it looks like. It is a type of over wintering fungus and it is a Bastard. It has only hit us here in the Midwest the last oh 4 years or so and it hits late July and defoliates your plants. Depending on strain and conditions you will be left with nothing but pool cues.

A bunch of the guerillas around here have been up to our eyeballs in this shit the last few years. Mold is like a weak little girl compared to this stuff. Strains haven’t really been breed specifically to withstand Leaf Spot as of yet. Some do better than others but unlike mold/bud rot breeders aren’t out there looking for phenos to fight this stuff YET.

Hey Lazlo get back to us when you get a chance really want to hear your personal experience fighting leaf spot with H2O2?

 

[LazLo]

My H2o2 ratios

My H2o2 ratios

Used 1 tsp per pint of tap water for spraying and 3 tbsps per gallon for soil watering. Only watered in the soil once. Didn't want to kill the good bacteria too.

First noticed the fungus attack on Aug 3. My last visit was on Jul 30. The lower half of a 4' girl had lost her leaves and spots were appearing on her 2 nearest sisters. Greencure sprayed next day on all girls at site. Aug 6 visit was to test the Greencure effects. But....brought along my hydrogen peroxide spray. The new top growth on the affected girls were showing spots. Greencure wasn't the help needed. I sprayed the girls with the H2o2 until I ran out of the 1/2 gallon solution I brought that day. Oversprayed all the greenery at the site. From then on, it was a once a week spraying right up to 5 days before harvest.

DS
I hear you about the taste on your buds. Blood tates of copper. I worked with a guy 30 years ago who had TOO MUCH cooper in his system and eventually died of the disease within 5 years. Somehow I just didn't want anything metallic in my grow. I did NOT notice any after taste or have any issues smoking my harvest.

hamstring
We are both in the midwest where the summers and early fall can be more humid than the tropics. I shake the morning dew from my buds just before sunrise. After the sun finishes the drying, I spray. And.....no caterpillars and only 1 wee spot budrot on 1 TT.

campfire
Western Costa Rica isn't that dream land. I was there in '97 and the entire coastline was full of litter. The mangrove swamps are full of trash. And then there is the botfly. Did get to see a Jesus lizard doing his thing accross the steam next to the hotel.

H2o2 may not be a cure all, but it worked for me. I get mine at the dollar store and a pint will last me for the season. A Windex spray bottle nozzle makes for the perfect pattern/droplet size. And don't forget the undersides of those leaves. Best hiding place for all bad things.

 

[Campfire]

Thanks Laslo, pity to hear that @ costa Rica. Hydrogen Peroxide, I'll add that to the arsenal.

 

[D.S. Toker. MD]

Lets talk about this some more guys. Im going to use Liquid Copper again but in limited ways.

2 yrs ago, was my first experience with blight was a Gh Himalayan Gold plant. It lost some leaves in early july, then whole branches died and it was dead withing 3 weeks of me noticing the disease. I read that the disease overwintered in surrounding dead veg but i was hoping it wouldnt come back. Last year, i grew another plant in that same spot and again, died dead as hell and was again, the first plant to die. That site/ spot is infested and overun with the spores so to plant a plant there without taking action is to garuantee the plant will die. Ive learned that much.

1. Because of that, I sprayed the dirt and dead weeds around every hole i have last Oct and im going to blast the hell out of them again come spring/ summer. The stuff lives in the soil and dead plants around my plant and it has to be killed. I would advise every grower here to spray every piece of vegetation, dead or alive and the ground itself with a kick ass powerful systemic fungicide. Im using Acrobat. You could never spray it on your plants because of its toxicity, but your not smoking the surrounding vegetation so spray the shit hard and heavy with heavy duty shit. I aim to kill it this year before it gets on my plants.

2. In combination, i will spray my plants with LC up until aug 1 when flowers appear. I dont smoke the leaves and thats what will have the spray on them, not the buds. But once i see flowers, no more Lc. Its my hope that the combination of killing the disease around me and preventing it for as long as possible on my plants will do the trick. The labeling says that Lc kills for 2 weeks after treatment, so if i treat aug 1.....The disease here, shows up early july.

3. I will be watching my shade leaves like a hawk. One yellow leaf and......

The fungicide labeling states that these products are much more effective at preventing the disease than it is as a cure so thats the approach im taking this year.Keep it out of the soil and keep it off of my plants up until Aug 1 and after that, ill be living on hope, to some extent. Although i feel that if i had kept it off of my plants until flowering, i would have been much better off.