issues brought on by light intensity

[gmanwho]

soo getting back into it......... i took some leafs off one of my latest concerns.


the details of this room . tried an tested room. de's with phillips bulbs, set to 660w, about24-30in above canopy. plenty more of ac for this room an set to 80-82 at canopy level. co2 set to 1150, 60% humidity. night time room exhausted. mind you ive gotten the lights closer before with no issues, certain runs certain clones etc....

ppk, 3.5 gal buckets half tupur coco & half grow stones. fed 1 quart ever 60 min at lights on only.

1 : .6 jacks calnit, 3mill cal mag, 3 mil biomin. a few biomin ca foliars, 1 calmag foliar. ph from 5.8-6.0. 11-1250ppm at .7 conversion. rez changeouts every 15 or so days. 700ppm top off strength.

problem started around day 30 or so for 3/4 room. (but the GG#4 on the other side started day 15 or so)

so i know its not a disaster. but i know it could be better. an this is why im striving to understand growing better all around.


this first pic is all 4 upper fan leaves. leafs where placed in order of how i thought at the time of taking the photo the healthiest to the least healthy. it basically came down to the greener of the leafs was towards the outter less lite area. an as i worked my way into the canopy under more direct light the problems where worse. again my problem i feel is directed to areas with increased photosynthesis. Ca mg B P an K an Su

day 50

this was the healthiest an also an outside leaf, still has leaf tip curl an dying off.

then a little further

i would expect this during the last 7-10 day week flush. but not this early



because of how green that outer leaf is at this point i am thinking of removing more calnit from the orginal 1 to .6 ratio, down to 1 to .5 for the next run.

 

[Speed of green]

maybe the Ca foliar and the extra calmag in the rez is blocking something else out. jacks and cal nit alone work well for many in ppk's maybe go back to basics and see if that makes a difference. check your r/o to be sure you are starting at 0 i was getting phantom deficiencies/burn when my r/o filters were getting old.

 

[gmanwho]

maybe the Ca foliar and the extra calmag in the rez is blocking something else out. jacks and cal nit alone work well for many in ppk's maybe go back to basics and see if that makes a difference. check your r/o to be sure you are starting at 0 i was getting phantom deficiencies/burn when my r/o filters were getting old.

appreciate the reply speed of green. the ro is a good point brought up. i do swap filter out every 3 months on the first filter an it seems about every 8-10 on the rest including the ro membrane. the psi gauge is a direct indicator on this filter setup. seeing when it comes for 65-70psi down to 50psi its time to swap something out. i will monitor it more closely.

i used to run the jacks & calnit exclusively when i first started the ppk's. full runs. but the problems where worse then. now im 12-15 runs later. in fact without the addition of cal or cal mag i cannot run strains like og's or sour diesels. they do not like they lack of ca, period, they grow horrible. brittle purple stems. cal rust spotting everywhere. running the jacks to cal nit at 1:1 was worse.

you run jacks an calnit? if so whats your basic feed schedule & environment?

thanks for the reply....

 

[Nichead]

Looks like a magnesium issue to me. These past few weeks I halved some doses, trying to eliminate my burnt tip issue, and got bleaching like what you show. I put my magnesium-sulfate back to my normal dose, and the problem cleared right up. I use cal-nit too (all in how it's mixed, if you know), but I'm keeping the cal-nitrate dose lower with no issues.

I think it's something with the chlorophyll, but my degree isn't in botany. The purpling on the side of the stems that is facing the light, green on the bottom, seems to be another indicator. It turns green, ime, when fed more magnesium.

 

[Bongstar420]

Try lowering your Ca/Mg amount or increasing your NPK(S?)....and I don't see your NPKS and assume biomin is their high iron micro blend which is OK. You could just need more NPKS. I'm not sold on the value of nutrient foliar spraying as a general practice though its very valuable in certain circumstances.

I'd say it looks a little hot with slightly higher EC than ideal in there by the looks of the leaves, but I've run those temps and ec without problem before. And since you got CO2, the optimum temps and nute levels are pretty high, though I don't believe 1100ppm CO2 is that great. I haven't ran the stuff prior, but I suspect 900ppm is the better place because it is about the place where diminishing returns occur.

soo getting back into it......... i took some leafs off one of my latest concerns.

1 : .6 jacks calnit, 3mill cal mag, 3 mil biomin. a few biomin ca foliars, 1 calmag foliar. ph from 5.8-6.0. 11-1250ppm at .7 conversion. rez changeouts every 15 or so days. 700ppm top off strength.

 

[Nichead]

Nope, that's light bleaching. You can see from the purple on the petiole. The parts shaded from the light are green. Plants can't produce the green for the light used. Pretty simple, and it always fixes it. A lot of people use less light, or give up on other lights, instead of feeding more mag for more light. Not complicated. People don't want to listen, fine. Give it more nitrogen... I think most of yall sell fertilizer, tbh. Good luck.

 

[gmanwho]

Nichead im with you thinking its mag, an something else is being consumed faster then the i can feed it back. different genetics in the same room started showing upper fan leaf boron spotting.

wondering how much mg i can really feed them? what is a suggested rate of epsom per gal? looks like i should be hitting them every 7-10 days.

reason why i say foliar is im not a chemist or i dont know how to tell when the ca or mg my actually cause an imbalance in the nutrient solution, plus foliar would be consumed quicker once the problem appears. i hate spraying the colas thou...unless theres a way to not spray the colas?

 

[944s2]

Running multi strain I have found some varietys don't like direct light in my experience,
Terperella, GG4 are just a couple who performed much better on the edge of the our gardens then under direct light where they often looked like the ops pics,
Food for thought,,,,,,s2

 

[gmanwho]

Running multi strain I have found some varietys don't like direct light in my experience,
Terperella, GG4 are just a couple who performed much better on the edge of the our gardens then under direct light where they often looked like the ops pics,
Food for thought,,,,,,s2

thanks 944, i have had the gg4 much happier before. but that may have been more dumb luck, or not.
def a thought i may have not considered fully.

grew up with 356's, 924's, 911's an later my brother had a 930 turbo. that 930 had an oversized turbo. tires would break free at 55mph when she would spool up hard.

back to the plants...

but on the other hand i say, why doesnt she not like the light? most of me says i am not feeding her correctly so she can use the light properly. umols at the 600w level should be easily within reason, an def not pushing the plant that hard.

but i hard enough i guess i couldnt get her to keep up.

gonna be trying a vitamin an amino acid treatment next rounds. i also been playing with a brix meter. realizing what an important tool the brix meter can be

thanks for the replies!!