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is this nute def or root mites????

EZlistener

Member
i'll send pics l8er, plant was brought in from outside thats why i 1st thought some kind of pest, blackfly larvae or summink living on roots. i have seen occasional blackfly which i've swatted in flower room.
plant is in soil about 3-4 wk into flower, symptoms are top leaves started going pale between veins and have now fully yellowed, other leaves starting showing same symptoms, pale starting from stem not tip of leaf
leaf stems toward top of plant are a purple colour, lower leaf stems normal green. if it is nute def i'm thinking iron. i know nitrogen def yellows leaves but i always thought this started from lower leaves.
plant was flushed last weekend incase of salt build-up but symptoms still persisted.
there are no additives in the soil, lime, food etc just soil
ph = 6.5
so my q is nute def or pest attack??
 
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S

Space Ghost

i think (and I stress THINK) it has to be a problem with a micro nute, as it is starting at the growth tips, so get yourself a micro complex, I suggest earth juice micro blast. Give them a fairly strong hit of a micro complex and see how they respond... I highly doubt it's a pest problem.

pics would help a lot, but until then, good luck...
 

XrelaX

New member
you have fungus gnat larve.

the larve eat root hairs causing all types of leaf distortions. this causes the grower to concentrate on the assumed problem, ie. nutes, ph, ect...

my bog does eactly what you described. others claw badly...ect.

too save any kind of yeild you need to get B.T.I. and apply. for hydro you can use peroxide right out the cvs. if you can't find instrvctions on how to use these in QnA. i'll help you out. you need to do this asap...larve feed up to 14 days.

sorry and gl
 
G

Guest

soil or not i see some leaf margin defects this may be a calcium problem.
 
G

Guest

Needs pics out of the light... there are different 'shades' of the colors you provided and one must be able to see it clearly to label it effectively. Could be burnt, Ph, rootbound, mg, cal,early N def. but again can't know for sure... what are your temps btw?
 
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EZlistener

Member
some better pics now lights are out, main branch is bent over and tide down











the plant was originally outside in my garden, its in a 10 litre bucket in my flower room which is set-up for flood + drain which will be active in 3-4 week, i'll put plant in bucket to the side of my flood table which will be full with clay balls. i've not kept close attention to it nute wise as i don't grow in soil but rather than destroy the plant i thought i'd finish it in flower room.
i've since remembered there is a slow release food in the soil but only half recommended dose as they were only set to be outside 4 month not 6. its been getting canna nutes flores for hydro which should be ok and PK 9/18 hammerhead, reason i'm not buying any soil nutes are if PK can be used for both then so should most nutes though i wouldn't try organic nutes in a hydro system, i only started giving canna nutes last few days since yellowing increased. room temps are 25-28C light on 21C light off, temp probe under light reaches 31-32C but i don't pay much attention to that, i use back of hand method, light = 400W home made cool tube
any info appreciated as its 4 week into flower and buds looking OK
 
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EZlistener

Member
421- are you sure, i originally thought some kind of pest cos i fetched it indoors from outside, if so whats the remedy, is this why top cola has developed white cluster type thingy, i'm gonna have to clean room right thru b4 i fill table up :badday: i'm still torn between nute def still any info mucho appreciatedo amigo
 
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G

Guest

This may be helpfull :Fungus Gnats
HYG-2114-95

William F. Lyon

Common Name Scientific Name
Darkwinged Fungus Gnat Sciara spp.
Fungus Gnats Orfelia spp.
Darkwinged Fungus Gnat
Adult, Larva

Fungus gnats occasionally become a nuisance indoors when adults emerge in large numbers as mosquito-like insects from potted plants or flower boxes containing damp soil rich in humus. Adults are attracted to lights and are often first noticed at windows. Larvae or maggots, which feed in soil high in orangic matter, can injure the roots of bedding plants, African violets, carnations, cyclamens, geraniums, poinsettias and foliage plants. Plant symptoms may appear as sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth, yellowing and foliage loss. Some are serious pests in mushroom houses. Fungus gnats inhabit fungi or dead plant materials and are harmless to humans and animals.
Identification

Adult fungus gnats are about 1/8 to 1/10 inch (2.5 mm) long, grayish to black, slender, mosquito-like, and delicate with long legs, antennae and one pair of wings. Identification can be made by the vein patterns in the wings. Darkwinged fungus gnat adults have eyes that meet above the base of the antennae. Eggs are hardly visible, oval, smooth, shiny white and semi-transparent. Larvae or maggots are legless, thread-like, white, shiny blackheaded, up to 1/4 inch (5.5 mm) long and transparent so food in the gut can be seen through the body wall. Pupae occur in silk-like cocoons in the soil.
Life Cycle and Habits

Fungus gnats reproduce in moist, shaded areas in decaying organic matter such as leaf litter. The life cycle is about four weeks, with continuous reproduction in homes or greenhouses where warm temperatures are maintained. Broods overlap, with all life stages present during the breeding season. Larvae not only feed on fungi and decaying organic matter, but on living plant tissue, particularly root hairs and small feeder roots. Brown scars may appear on the chewed roots. The underground parts of the stem may be injured and root hairs eaten off. Damage occurs most often in greenhouses or plant beds.

Adults live about 7 to 10 days and deposit eggs on the moist soil surface or in soil cracks. Females lay up to 100 to 300 eggs in batches of 2 to 30 each in decaying organic matter. Eggs hatch in 4 to 6 days; larvae feed for 12 to 14 days. The pupal stage is about 5 to 6 days. There are many overlapping generations throughout the year.
Control Measures
Prevention

Inspect plants carefully before purchase for signs of insect infestation. Always use sterile potting soil to prevent introduction of fungus gnats. Overwatering, water leaks and poor drainage may result in buildup of fungus gnats. Allowing the soil to dry as much as possible, without injury to the plants, is effective in killing many maggots. Houseplants taken outside during warm weather may become infested with insects before being brought back indoors. Inspect plants carefully and discard if heavily infested and unable to save. Remove all old plant material and debris in and around the home. Practice good sanitation. Electrocutor-light fly traps will attract and kill many adults at night.
Monitoring
Use yellow sticky cards (traps) for adult fungus gnat detection. Place traps just above the plants at a frequency of one per 500 to 1,000 square feet. Replace when covered with insects. Check traps 2 to 3 times each week.
Insecticides

Adult fungus gnats are killed easily with pyrethrins spray or aerosols labelled for "gnats" or "flying insects." Repeat applications several times if necessary. Commercial mushroom growers may get control with diazinon, methoxychlor or naled (Dibrom), whereas commercial greenhouse growers can use Bacillus Thuringiensis Berliner var. israelensis (Gnatrol, Vectobac). Licensed pesticide applicators can apply a restricted use pesticide, namely oxamyl (Vydate). Always read the label and follow directions and safety precautions. If this is fungus gnats and people tell you they will not hurt your grow do not believe them! those larvae will eat roots. I tried all this othen than organo phosphates and such freezing all soil and amendments worked and now I am gnat free.
 
G

Guest

Damn gnats

Damn gnats

Fungus gnats reproduce in moist, shaded areas in decaying organic matter such as leaf litter. The life cycle is about four weeks, with continuous reproduction in homes or greenhouses where warm temperatures are maintained. Broods overlap, with all life stages present during the breeding season. Larvae not only feed on fungi and decaying organic matter, but on living plant tissue, particularly root hairs and small feeder roots. Brown scars may appear on the chewed roots. The underground parts of the stem may be injured and root hairs eaten off. Damage occurs most often in greenhouses or plant beds. this is the important part :bashhead:
 
G

Guest

Has any body still have any doubts that fungus gnats will destroy a crop?
 
G

Guest

Well you may have Gnats, but it looks to me like you have a Boron def., and that is what is causing the rusty looking leaves. Here is a pic from stiche's guide which is extremely useful.



 

EZlistener

Member
K- it is a brown rust colour and 'infected' leaves feel dry almost brittle, plant was given nutes last night so i'm gonna let dry out for couple of days incase its gnats, spray also with bug spray and see how it is and hopefully it will be on the mend and give me some juicy buds in 4 week or so

some good guys on this site cheers
 

421oops

New member
if it's gnats, drying out will not help. the larve are feeding. and uhey do so for 14 days. drying the soil can cause the larve to bore up into the stalk ending all growth. you need them dead now.

couple ways. need help ask. put a slice of potato near the stalk. larve will come up to it and then you will know. or flush some soil near the roots and look for maggots. tiny w/black head.
 

EZlistener

Member
421-it makes sense, they like it moist eh!, will they bore into peel or summink? anyways if hydro shop sells some sort of soak then it'll be a sale
 

Chiefsmokingbud

Slap-A-Ho tribe
Veteran
If your leaves look like this it is a cal deffeciency. I fought this problem for 3 grows before i figured out what it was. Added some cal/mag and it stopped. It usually starts with round brown spots on the leaf edges.
 
G

Guest

^ yea try some cal mag or lime, it won't hurt unless you already did add it...but the above is a possability
 
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