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Is more than one drench with Bayer complete needed for Root Aphids?

marrdogg

Member
Veteran
Thanks for that bit of info on both ends appreciated. I will get Met52. I will also try the hot water treatment on one plant to see if the roots don't become soup. Thanks Fellas
 

sneaky_g

Member
Phone number for a Met retailer out of colorado.. i think about 90 bucks for 2.2 lbs. + 20 dollars to ship anywhere in the states.

Phone #

214 335 9496.

Basically i talked to him on the phone and he explained in great detail how it works.. It is not meant to treat a huge infestation. However, once you kill your mothers, veg, clones, and pyro bomb the shit out of your space, Apply 3 grams per gallon of the pellet stuff in your medium. Be sure to mix it thourougly, the safety guide lines call for mask and gloves, but he shared that it doesn't effect him to touch with his hands. Only stays active for up to a year, which means alot of us can get 4 cycles out of it.

Bottom line gotta kill the fliers, wipe your space down with bleach, wipe your equipment down, change ducting out, more bleach, a pyro bomb for good measure. THAN when all is gone and no signs of them, apply it to medium and he gauranteed they wont fuck with ur plants.

Personally im a little scared of the bayer tree and shrub. Does anyone know if its even safe to make edibles out of it? Is it safe to submerge as a root drench in flower assuming your just smoking the bud from harvest?
 

Budwhyser

Member
I have read through a bunch of Root Aphid threads and have a quick question. Do I need to apply repeated drenches of Bayer Complete to get rid of Root Aphids or just one? I have already applied one drench about a week ago and wondering if I should drench another time or two or is once going to be sufficient?

You will find that everyone gets different results from the same products.One of the variables is an accurate ID of what you have. Some may have acquired RA's that are resistant to certain chems already. At any rate, whatever you use, you must be consistent. The life cycle of these things is about three days. So the best plan is to hit them at least a few different times maybe with different chems. Also, your rooms and grow area need to be sterilized. If you have dirt or open bags of soil and or amendments I would probably toss them all. Old pots need to sterilized. They are really hard to eliminate. I had to do a full reset to get rid of mine. The super important thing going forward is to have as sterile an environment as possible in your grow space. Preventive practices like not bringing in outside clones, not wearing your street clothes inside your grow space, watching plants daily for indications of possible infestation and possibly giving all your plants a dose of imid before they hit the flower room can help tremendously. I have a friend I no longer visit because of mites and the fear of bringing them out with me. Just my observations...your mileage may vary
 

ozzieAI

Well-known member
Veteran
as mentioned by budwhyser people get different results depending on their different grow variables...one application of bayer (conifer) mixed with neem worked for me....
 

Budwhyser

Member
How long does it take until met52 seriously affects the root aphids?

Few days, 2 weeks?

When Imid (Met52) works, it's an instant kill, which is where most people make a fatal mistake and think thats the end of it. If you miss one egg or one flyer they comeback in full force although it may take weeks before you notice at which point you back to square one. Whatever you do plan for multiple applications no more than 6-7 days apart. It all depends on if the species of RA's you have is resistant to Imid. The beauty of Met is that is like 20 times more concentrated than its Bayer counterpart
 
When Imid (Met52) works, it's an instant kill, which is where most people make a fatal mistake and think thats the end of it. If you miss one egg or one flyer they comeback in full force although it may take weeks before you notice at which point you back to square one. Whatever you do plan for multiple applications no more than 6-7 days apart. It all depends on if the species of RA's you have is resistant to Imid. The beauty of Met is that is like 20 times more concentrated than its Bayer counterpart

Well you dont really have an other choice than applying it more than once during one grow. You mix the granulate of met52 to your substrate and than you have to wait until the grow is finished until you can apply met52 again since its a granulate...
 

LEDNewbie

Active member
Veteran
What about Merit 75 WP? I bought some. Haven't used it yet but it seems to get good reviews..... Anyone have experience using this product?
 
When Imid (Met52) works, it's an instant kill, which is where most people make a fatal mistake and think thats the end of it. If you miss one egg or one flyer they comeback in full force although it may take weeks before you notice at which point you back to square one. Whatever you do plan for multiple applications no more than 6-7 days apart. It all depends on if the species of RA's you have is resistant to Imid. The beauty of Met is that is like 20 times more concentrated than its Bayer counterpart

As far is I know Bayer doesn't have a "counterpart" of Met52. Imid and Confidor both contain the active agent "Imidacloprid".

Met52 contains a fungus called "metarhizium anisopliae".

Just wanted to clarify that nobody gets confused....

Hydrodreams
 
I just bought the Bayer Confidor, one of many products of Bayer that contains Imidacloprid, but the only Bayer product with Imidacloprid that we can get here.
But I just saw that it is an oil- dispersion, which some people say, that for example pyrethrine oil- dispersions can cause your roots a hard time to breathe or absorb nutrients, if wathered in the soil. That makes me scared.
And as written on the bottle, the concentration of the Imidacloprid is very high (19.34%). So what concentration would you use?

Anyway, i just harvested, but I didnt remove any of the old roots with 1inch of the stem from the soil bed (1x1m). I think even if I cut most of the plant its still "alive" and should be absorb the water etc, or dont you think so?
It would be an advantage that I could use a bit higher concentration of confidor, because I cut the plants already, just the rots and a bit of stem left. But Im planing to reuse the soil again and I dont want to give the new clones a bad start because they will be exposed to a soil oversucked with Imidacloprid...

Your opinion please...
 

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Budwhyser

Member
Soil is cheap. Toss it and start fresh. Why take the unnecessary risk of starting a new crop with potentially infested soil?
 

Budwhyser

Member
As far is I know Bayer doesn't have a "counterpart" of Met52. Imid and Confidor both contain the active agent "Imidacloprid".

Met52 contains a fungus called "metarhizium anisopliae".

Just wanted to clarify that nobody gets confused....

Hydrodreams

My bad I was confusing Met52 with Merit75 and I have used both
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
If the RAs developed a resistance to imidacloprid....then a thousand drenches/dunks will not get rid of em, cuz the survivors (yeah lots will die--but not all, hence the OP's question) of subsequent imidacloprid treatments will continue to pass their imidacloprid resistance trait to their offspring...and with each generation of survivors (more offspring)...the resistance increases as this silly routine is repeated over and over and over.

Think about it...if the original RA you got had already been overdosed with imidacloprid by another grower--long before he met you. Then the offspring from that one resistant RA is now the father of all your RAs....got the picture?

Google "imidacloprid insect resistance" to see people smarter than me have to say about imidacloprid resistance.

RAs are difficult to eradicate--I know, been there and done that...and yes it is possible (but not with imidacloprid).
 
Soil is cheap. Toss it and start fresh. Why take the unnecessary risk of starting a new crop with potentially infested soil?

Well, good soil isn't that cheap here. But I wouldn't mind the cost. Its just that the root aphids will come back anyway, so you will have to treat them anyway. They are so small that you wont catch all of them..
 
If the RAs developed a resistance to imidacloprid....then a thousand drenches/dunks will not get rid of em, cuz the survivors of each subsequent imidacloprid treatment (yeah lots will die from the treatment--but not all) will pass the imidacloprid resistance trait to their offspring. Google "imidacloprid insect resistance" to see people smarter than me have to say about imidacloprid resistance.

RAs are difficult to eradicate--I know, been there and done that...and yes it is possible (but not with imidacloprid).

Before I plant the new clones, I will mix met52 into the soil as well. So i will have Imidacloprid and met52.
 

EclipseFour20

aka "Doc"
Veteran
Do not want to hijack this thread...cuz for many imidacloprid did the job for them.

But please research half life properties of imidacloprid (both soil and hydro mediums) and compare them other alternatives, including my Orthene + Riptide recipe I posted in several ICMAG threads.
 

sneaky_g

Member
Thats what i'm wondering.. I plan to use bayer tree and shrub WITH met 52. i'm guessing the two can be used together? Anyone have any input on this.
 
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