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IPM - (INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT) PREVENTION, INSECTS, MOLDS, FUNGUS, VIRUS

acespicoli

Well-known member
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IPM system designed around six basic components
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Please, come share you knowledge, link your threads. Let us discuss different methods :huggg: welcome!
 
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Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
View attachment 18941665
IPM system designed around six basic components
View attachment 18941667
View attachment 18941668


Please, come share you knowledge, link your threads. Let us discuss different methods :huggg: welcome!
Thanks friend, very interesting.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
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A work in progress, comments and advice at any stage is welcome
If anyone would like editing and commenting permissions DM with a alias email for link
Otherwise just post below as a conference speaker on this subject to have your ideas added to papers


This may seem a little commercial, not the intention. Knowledge for everyone's benefit.
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
Outstanding informatics you're posting!

First pic reminded me of a shot I took a month or two ago:
Yours I like better, its a beautiful thing watching them work :)
Im thinking of tagging some upcoming photos
https://creativecommons.org/ for public use that way everyone benefits from them
Microscopy and high quality digital we will see how much we can accomplish

Again feel free to comment and or link related threads :huggg:
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
TABLE OF CONTENTS
  • IN NEED OF CONTENT... ;)
I am not accustomed to saying anything with certainty after only one or two observations.
— Andreas Vesalius, (1546)[85]
IPM system designed around six basic components
Maybe we could break these six topics down and discuss them each then form a treatise paper
Each paper of combined content from the thread could be linked from the TOC contents ?
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
  • Acceptable pest levels
What is a acceptable level of pests ?

First idea is using beneficial insects, and chemical as needed that does not kill bene's
Maybe an acceptable level is pests are ok controlled naturally as long as
quality and quantity of the finished product is not affected?

Im thinking this may well connect with processing of products as well extracts etc



Decarbing requires two things to coexist: time and temperature. Finding the right balance is essential, and it’s important to note that this isn’t an exact science. With that in mind, you can destroy the terpenes at an improper temperature for the wrong amount of time.


Decarboxylation at high temperatures of 300 degrees Fahrenheit or more can cause degradation, which would evaporate the terpenes. The ideal cannabis decarboxylation temperature ranges from 200- to 300-degrees, but the “sweet spot” hovers between 230- and 250-degrees Fahrenheit.


Properly Time and Temps​


The good news is utilizing proper lab equipment makes this process easy to perform. But you will need to have a basic understanding of the two properties that make the decarbing work. Here are some examples of times and temperatures in the decarboxylation process for oil, hash, kief, and flowers.


  • 212 °F, 2-4 hours for high CBD kief and hash
  • 245 °F, 30-40 minutes for high THC kief and hash
  • 250 °F, hot oil bath until the bubbles taper off
  • 300 °F, in an oven for 10-18 minutes for high-THC flower


post contains tangent... clean feed product is of utmost importance as well as post harvest processing
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member

Part II: Voluntary Best Practices for Your Nursery
A systems approach offers practices that can make any nursery safer, more efficient and more profit-
able. In Part II of this guide, we spend several chapters describing best practices that any nursery can
adopt, whether or not it participates in a formal systems approach certification program. These prac-
tices address every major aspect of nursery production.

Chapter 5: Plant Production: Procurement ...................................................................... 35
How do pests and pathogens make their way into a nursery where they didn’t exist before?
Frequently, it’s by hitchhiking on incoming plant material. This chapter offers best practices
nurseries can follow so the risks associated with buy-ins are minimized, and pests and patho-
gens are detected before they become established.

Chapter 6: Plant Production: Propagation ....................................................................... 41
Nurseries can reduce their risk of importing pathogens and pests by propagating their own
plant material. However, the risk is not eliminated. This chapter offers best practices to help
prevent new material from becoming infested, and keep it from spreading pests and pathogens
to other, healthy plant material.

Chapter 7: Plant Production: Containers and Media .................................................... 49
Once a nursery has either bought or propagated new plant material, the plants are still vulner-
able to infestation during the production process. Chapter 7 focuses on exposure risks for
container production, and how to mitigate them. These risks can come from infested contain-
ers as well as infested growing media. The best practices here will help you do what’s necessary
to curtail those risks.

Chapter 8: Plant Production: Water Management ........................................................ 57
All nurseries must manage water, through irrigation, site drainage, or both. Whether a given
nursery produces in containers, in the field or in greenhouses, it can be vulnerable to water-
borne pests and pathogens. Chapter 8 offers best practices to keep pathogens from spreading
via infested irrigation water or flawed site drainage.

Chapter 9: Plant Production: Infrastructure .................................................................... 65
The term infrastructure, as applied here to nurseries, is a catch-all term that includes site selec-
tion, sanitation facilities, composting facilities, cull piles, equipment management, and overall
site biosecurity. All of these are potential avenues of pest and pathogen risk for nurseries. In
Chapter 9, we provide best practices to prevent risk

Important Note: There is No Silver Bullet
 

So Hai

Well-known member
Hi,

The first video here is about using kangen water as part of ipm. So it is water treated through a device that makes it alkaline or acidic. I have no experience using it but stories like this caught my interest.



This second video is somehing that showed up as a link after the first. It struck me though that bicabonate has similar uses and properties as the kangen water and it is readily available, more so than some expensive machine (even cheap ones are expensive).



I thought that I would also mention this article about spinosad and the importance of using it as integrated management rather than a stand alone solution. Imo this also acts to invigorate the plant.

 

acespicoli

Well-known member
View attachment 18944231
100$ -/+ in a 50gal barrel maybe natural or artificial light ?

Copper Ionization​


The process of copper ionization uses electricity to harness the natural molecular properties of copper (See Figure 16.13). Because soluble copper ions lack two electrons, they are “eager” to bond with other suitable atoms that can supply the missing electrons. When copper ions encounter organic matter, including plant pathogens, they firmly attach themselves and disrupt the pathogens’ cell walls, killing the organisms. A concentration of 0.5 to 1 ppm is effective against pathogens, while 1 to 2 ppm may be required for algae. Copper ions have a residual effect. Copper ionization is widely used by plug and liner greenhouse growers. Copper ionization can be combined with other technologies, such as filtration and ultraviolet light.
Hi,

The first video here is about using kangen water as part of ipm. So it is water treated through a device that makes it alkaline or acidic. I have no experience using it but stories like this caught my interest.



This second video is somehing that showed up as a link after the first. It struck me though that bicabonate has similar uses and properties as the kangen water and it is readily available, more so than some expensive machine (even cheap ones are expensive).



I thought that I would also mention this article about spinosad and the importance of using it as integrated management rather than a stand alone solution. Imo this also acts to invigorate the plant.


Preserving effective controls (brakes on thrips article! (y) )

To preserve the longevity of spinosad, greenhouse growers must rotate spinosad with other insecticides possessing different modes of action. These insecticides are registered for use on thrips and have different modes of action:

* Spinosad (Conserve): nicotinic acetylcholine receptor agonist.
* Methiocarb (Mesurol): acetylcholine esterase inhibitor.
*Chlorfenapyr (Pylon): oxidative phosphorylation uncoupler.
* Abamectin (Avid): gamma-amino butyric acid chloride channel activator.
*Acephate (Orthene): acetylcholine esterase inhibitor.
* Novaluron (Pedestal): chitin synthesis inhibitor.
* Kinoprene (Enstar II): juvenile hormone mimic.

Like the low cost availability and low toxicity of baking soda!
:love: Some great information in there thx:huggg:
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
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Since I have sulfur, beewax, old 100% cotton tee shirt wicks, and metal cans (without plastic liners)
It got me to thinking how hard would it be to make a 20-30$ candle ? not paying shipping
Save me a hour ride to town...

Also availability of products
Micheal's Crafts sells beewax in 1 lb blocks (cooking animal and vegetable fats)
parrafin gulf wax $3.97/LB canning wax remember this from the good ole days?

Walmart sells lantern wicks (old 100% cotton rags)
Walmart HomeDepot Lowes sells Sulfur ... (composting or volcanoes)
Maybe reuse a empty candle container (used sterno can, mason jar, hardware store empty paint can ?)

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recycle a walmart candle bucket ?

Features​

BrandBattles
SKUBA8192
Weight (lb.)0.5
Width (in.)3
Prop 65No
Height (in.)2
Length (in.)3
Lead TimeThis product ships in 3-5 Business Days
ETL ListedNo
UL ListedNo
Bug TypeFungus, General Insecticide, Gnats, Thrips, Whiteflies
Application TypeFogger
Product TypeInsecticide & Fungicide
OMRI CertifiedNo
Usage AreaIndoor & Outdoor
ConcentrationReady-to-Use
Ingredient BaseSynthetic Based

Candle Making Instructions
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Foggers and wet sulfur mixed sprays may be preferable
Setting candles on a 12"x12" granite stone or ceramic tile

Me I may just fall asleep and take a day nap so 🤷‍♂️ maybe not the best advice
Best advice is probably get yourself a aerosol fogger? copper sulfate or neem ?
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In a closed empty greenhouse no problem? Prior to planting ?

Assessment of the Effects of Triticonazole on Soil and Human Health



Then this from Purdue on organic treatments


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For Quick Reference
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member

OMRI Generic Materials List with OMRI Standards Manual©​




The 2022 OMRI Generic Materials List with the OMRI Standards Manual contains the requirements your product and its ingredients must meet before being eligible for listing in the OMRI Products List©. Please carefully review this manual prior to submitting your application.
application/pdf icon
22StanMan-amended-June-2023.pdf

Page 10-12 starts Page 45 finishes the organic crop inputs nice list
Many ideas may present themselves reading in there
If a organic certification isnt your goal this may or may not interest you
My latest interest is the alcohol and peroxides ad irrigation disinfectants
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Price for ISO is cheap for use on pruners etc
Ammonia and Acetic acids are interesting as well uses...
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While this is certified as organic it has been detected in cannabis smoke
As certification of cannabis safe products expand we want to maintain best practices in our homes etc
Best>>> :huggg:
 
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chilliwilli

Waterboy
Veteran
I got sulphur pucks to be burned for wine vat disinfection. Is it same thing? Can it be used?
It's dev not the same as a sulphur burner. The burner vaporizes the sulphur without beeing burned to SO2. Not sure if the candles vaporizes part of the sulphur but they will dev burn some of it.
When u burn sulphur it turns into SO2 what reacts with water to H2SO3/sulphurous acid. Imo not good for plants but ok for cleaning a growspace without plants.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
I got sulphur pucks to be burned for wine vat disinfection. Is it same thing? Can it be used?
Thats a great question and I also enjoy a little homebrew, I wouldnt know without checking the label
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USING OUR
SULFUR VAPORIZORfor killing powdery mildew
Sulfur Burners/Vaporizer:
Sulfur Vaporizers (Burners) are the best overall remedy to the powdery mildew problem. It is what commercial greenhouses
use for a very good reason - it works. Sulfur changes the pH on the leaf surface, making it unhospitable for plant growth.
If you want the “final solution” to an infestation, than use a burner. They smell something awful (Sulfur is not safe to inhale.
Do NOT enter the sulfur cloud) and create a huge amount of smoke when being burned. Use a Digital Timer in conjunction
with our Sulfur Burner and your exhaust/inline fan(s); this will manage the Sulfur application and prevent exhaust fans from
turning on while the Sulfur is being applied. Hooking the burner up to a timer is critical. We also recommend having the
exhaust fan hooked up to another timer (turning on after the Sulfur burner has been turned off) to vent the room.
Application Instructions:
For best results make sure to follow these instructions closely:
For preventative use turn on the unit for 4-5 hours 2 times per week.
For active infestation turn on the unit 4-5 hours 4 times per week. Can use up to 6-8 hours a night for severe infestations.
Do not use after day 21 in Bloom.
Also the cup needs to be adjusted properly over the heat plate (lower the cup down all the way, so that it rests on the
heating element), and the right amount of sulfur needs to be added (the cup must be cleaned, and filled half-way up with
approx. 100g. of sulfur) or a flame can result from the canister within. Make sure to turn OFF exhaust fans and lights during
opperation. Make sure plants are dry. Usually, Burners are lit during the plants “night” (dark) cycle only.
Our (Yellow) Electric Vaporizer / Burner (We cannot say this applies to other burners sold in other stores - only ours):
Filling - Thoroughly clean any debris from the cup. Fill the cup half full (approx. 100g. of sulfur). Do not overfill as this could
cause the unit to boil over. Boiling over is very dangerous - if this occurs, keep the cup only half full.
Cup Placement within unit – lower the cup down all the way so that it rests on the heating element.
Coverage Area - 1,000 Sq. Ft.
Placement of Unit - The burner should be hung (by its handle) 2-3 feet above plants (make sure it is hung vertically / not
sideways or any other way). Make sure this is ample air flow going around the unit.
Saftey Precautions:
Adjust plate properly within (all the way down) so it is resting on the heating element.
Wear protective clothing (This should include a “sulfur rated” mask, gloves, eye protection, long sleeves, pants and shoes.)
Perform all Vaporization of sulfur at night.
Do NOT enter or inhale the sulfur cloud.
Make sure leaves are dry before vaporization begins.
Do NOT attempt to “fix” or repair burner if there is a problem. Please bring back to the shop.
Do NOT touch unit while it is ON.
Wash all produce before consumption.
* For storage - keep sulfur in original package in a cool dark place. Make sure to keep away from children. Sulfur tends
to take in moisture, so the packaging must be closed tightly and securely after each use, if you want it to last.
WARNING
DO NOT use a sulfur burner on or near plants that have been foliar sprayed with any type of oil-based additives, pesticides
or other products within the last 30 days or the plants can catch on fire.
DISCLAIMER
The Sulfur Burner / Vaporizer has been tested and approved with the above directions and application instructions. Neither
GreenCoast Hydroponics nor the manufacturer will take any responsiblity for ill use of this Burner / Vaporizer or any damage
that might be incurred as to a direct use of this Burner / Vaporizer unit. It is impossible for us to be there watching to insure
that all steps listed above were followed accurately.

Use wisely at your own risk.

I got sulphur pucks to be burned for wine vat disinfection. Is it same thing? Can it be used?
Im glad you asked prills preferred in burners then there is all that safety stuff
(not for everyone better outdoors greenhouse)
The volume of wine barrels and the sq ft area your treating :thinking:
Is you burner and the volume area the same as the ag one if it works let us know how it works
There may be better options such as bluestone copper sulfate 🤷‍♂️
I have never used the wine sulfur, I use campden tables for my equipment was looking at sani brite
Is there a homebrew thread here ? Maybe some of those chemicals work in both fields

Best :huggg:
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
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Metabisuphite tablets release sulfur dioxide, comes in powder as well
@exploziv glad you mentioned that this may work well for plant container cleaning :thinking: Bleach and Quaternary Ammonia or Sulfur

Keeping Benches Clean
Greenhouse benches are like the counter tops in the kitchen. They need to be kept sanitized to prevent plant contamination. Chlorine bleach, mixed to a 10 percent solution and allowed to stand for five minutes is very effective at killing disease pathogens, note the authors of the above paper. Caution is in order when using bleach, which is highly volatile, phytotoxic, and can irritate mucus membranes and lungs, and can even corrode metal.

Another product that can be used in greenhouses to sanitize are those products containing quaternary ammonium, which are less volatile and more stable than bleach but don’t penetrate wood so well, so use this product mostly on metal benches.

Products containing chlorine dioxide effectively sanitizes surfaces. Chlorine dioxide is a gas, so it can penetrate and infiltrate greenhouse nooks and crannies far better than liquid products. Always follow the labeling on a product and wear the proper protective gear.

For home use safety is very important
 
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acespicoli

Well-known member
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Doktor Doom​

Check pricing on Amazon.com
View more products from Doktor Doom
Insect Fogger

The biggest benefit to using Doktor Doom Total Release Insect Fogger is that it’s made with natural pyrethrum which biologically breaks down in a couple of hours. Provides very fast re-entry times to fumigated areas and NO long-lasting obnoxious odors lingering in the air. Safe to use around growing plants. Does NOT contain CFC’s or other ozone depleting substances.
Effective against fungus gnats, spider mites, aphids, whitefly, scale, mealybug and thrips.
Sizes:
3.0 oz – Treats up to 3,000 cu. ft. (19-1/2′ x 19-1/4′ x 8′ tall)
5.5 oz – Treats up to 5,500 cu. ft. (30′ x 23′ x 8′ tall)
12.5 oz – Treats up to 12,500 cu. ft. (60′ x 26′ x 8′ tall)
Note: To calculate cubic feet, multiply length x width x height.
Active Ingredient:
Pyrethrins ….. 0.4%
Piperonyl Butoxide ….. 2.0%
Inert Ingredients ….. 97.6%
Contains Piperonyl Butoxide (PBO), a sassafras extract that is NO longer approved for organic use.
Grower’s Tip:
Best used 2-3 hours after HID lights are off or 2-3 hours after sunset
— the greenhouse or indoor grow area cools down and bugs come out!

SERIOUSLY PUTS A HURTING ON THE BUGS
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ProductNatural Pest ControlBotanical Insecticides

Spider Mite Knockout​

Check Pricing on Amazon
View more products from Doktor Doom

An insecticidal plant spray for tomatoes and vegetables! Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout contains a high concentration of the naturally-occurring insecticide pyrethrin (0.20% formula).
Effective indoors or out against aphids, spider mites, whiteflies, leafhoppers, Japanese beetles and much more.
Unique nozzle sprays in all directions — even upside down for hard to reach areas. Safe to apply on food crops up to one day before harvest. Does NOT contain PBO.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE:
Always apply in the dark-late at night or early in the morning — NEVER in direct sunlight or with HID lights on. Water plants before application.
Be careful to remove any webbing that you see by hand prior to treatment — webs work as an umbrella and prevent sprays from getting through to the plant.
Spray the underside of the foliage from a distance of 2-3 feet away from the plant. Spider Mite Knockout is equipped with a special spray valve that sprays upside down.
Spray with short bursts 1-2 seconds at a time — a light mist is all that is required. Do NOT soak foliage.
Active Ingredient:
Pyrethrins ….. 0.20%
Inert Ingredients ….. 99.80%
Grower’s Tip:
Natural pyrethrins degrade in a matter of hours after exposure to light, air flow and humidity — NO residuals!
 
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