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insulating a shipping container
- Thread starter P-NUT
- Start date
I'd put a vapor barrier, frame it with metal studs, insulate it with fiberglass insulation and cover the walls with bathroom sheetrock.
I'd assume a dehuey is a must just like a basement at the very least an exhaust system. If you think about it the same type of problems can arise in a finished basement with condensation forming between the cold concrete walls and the finishing material.
I'd assume a dehuey is a must just like a basement at the very least an exhaust system. If you think about it the same type of problems can arise in a finished basement with condensation forming between the cold concrete walls and the finishing material.
Dude i was just bout to start the same thread... but i got a few more?s to add.... i been looking into connex containers. ... how many lights do u run in them... seems like it could only fit one row of lights to leave access room... so 5 k per 20 ft container maybe fit 2 more at the end... just doesn't seem worth it maybe get the 40ft but they the same width... space use isnt very practical but i love the extra security they provide. .. guess u gotta give up some space for a piece of mind is well worth it... all u guys rockin containers can u share details on ur setup???? Pm me if u dont wanna post them in public ...
I do them with 2x4 wood studs then spray foam the walls and ceiling
also add a wall with door about 18" in from the doors
4kw lighting cooled with 15k BTU ac and a santa fe classic dehumidifier
with the right strain if your are on your game it will do about 1LB/week
also add a wall with door about 18" in from the doors
4kw lighting cooled with 15k BTU ac and a santa fe classic dehumidifier
with the right strain if your are on your game it will do about 1LB/week
I just use the standard spray foam from the local big box store
one of the kits with the tank that looks about the same size as a BBQ propane tank 20 LBS?
First i frame in the studs then spray in the foam then i use 1/4" plywood rather than drywall because the wood holds screws far better
All wiring is surface mounted on the plywood with armoured cable for safety and ease of modification
this is with a 20' sea can FWIW
http://www.insulation4less.com/
Multiple layers, R14+ per 1/4" layer, but add air space twixt layers. Good luck. -granger
Multiple layers, R14+ per 1/4" layer, but add air space twixt layers. Good luck. -granger
prodex!
use it.
one of the best and easiest types of insulation to work with
and it has superior insulative value
and a vapor barrier
AND it sports a -19db drop with direct contact.
it's your best bang for the buck imo.
I'd also use spray foam, its the way to go tho for sure.
if it's feasible to spray it to the container walls it would do a lot for sound deadening control.
I would also opt for a commercial grade foam.
I use prodex in combo with polyisocyurante foam panels.
polyi-foam is way superior to eps foam/panels in the R dept..
my room could be used as a walkin cooler.
i got my poly-iso panels from a roofing supply house.
you can get em from 3/4" to 4" thick.
they also come sloped, they could be put on the floor and have it graded for water to runoff... just a thought.
Ive always liked the idea of using those shp'g containers
use it.
one of the best and easiest types of insulation to work with
and it has superior insulative value
and a vapor barrier
AND it sports a -19db drop with direct contact.
it's your best bang for the buck imo.
I'd also use spray foam, its the way to go tho for sure.
if it's feasible to spray it to the container walls it would do a lot for sound deadening control.
I would also opt for a commercial grade foam.
I use prodex in combo with polyisocyurante foam panels.
polyi-foam is way superior to eps foam/panels in the R dept..
my room could be used as a walkin cooler.
i got my poly-iso panels from a roofing supply house.
you can get em from 3/4" to 4" thick.
they also come sloped, they could be put on the floor and have it graded for water to runoff... just a thought.
Ive always liked the idea of using those shp'g containers
P-Nut, you aint finish this yet? JK 
Dont forget about that santa fe or similar dehuey as GSF says. Its gonna be pricy but i dont think you are gonna swing it with big box dehuey's unless you enlist a small army of them. The mini will help but not that much. I guess it depends on how much of the space you plan on utilizing.
Dont forget about that santa fe or similar dehuey as GSF says. Its gonna be pricy but i dont think you are gonna swing it with big box dehuey's unless you enlist a small army of them. The mini will help but not that much. I guess it depends on how much of the space you plan on utilizing.
N
noyd666
Terrible idea to bury those without reinforcement, there have been at least a few collapses I've heard of.
10000-50000k (UK pound)?
Maybe if they sent along a trained monkey operator.
10000-50000k (UK pound)?
Maybe if they sent along a trained monkey operator.
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=53293&pictureid=1297884&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] this one in oz just been found after bush fire went through, 115 plants? poor grower got pinged.
G`day Noyd
Yes the Cops followed the extension leads from the house to the mound in the back yard where some thing was obviously buried .
Two half asses don`t make a whole .
Thanks for sharin
EB .
Bad Habits
Member
Only 4k in a 20' container???
Been thinkin about doing one of these next summer once I have some coin saved...
here is my plan for insulating my container: your thoughts are greatly appreciated.
walls: 2x2's mounted to the inner corregations leaving me with about 1/4" between the face of the wood framing and the outer portion of the corregations...attaching a moisture/radiant barrier along the framing/walls that leaves an air gap in between the steel and the back side of the walls that will be finished off with 2" R-max panels basically looking at steel/air gap*/Radiant barrier/Rmax panels * that varies from 2-1/4" to 1/4" depending on corregation orientation
ceiling: 2x4 framing @ 24" on center, radiant barrier in between steel and framing, normal fiberglass insulation in the 2x4 recessions, and finished off with 1" Rmax panels
do I really need the radiant barrier? the rmax panels have radiant barrier on either side of them, but I do live in a desert and although I had my container dropped in a partially shaded area of my property I'm betting this thing will get pretty hot being in direct sunlight in the middle of summer
I'm going to run 4 gavitas, a 2 ton mini split and I have a small dehuey if necessary...the climate is very dry especially in the winter...I'm really just hoping that I don't do all of this insulating only to have the ceiling and walls pouring down on top of me once I get this all up and running
walls: 2x2's mounted to the inner corregations leaving me with about 1/4" between the face of the wood framing and the outer portion of the corregations...attaching a moisture/radiant barrier along the framing/walls that leaves an air gap in between the steel and the back side of the walls that will be finished off with 2" R-max panels basically looking at steel/air gap*/Radiant barrier/Rmax panels * that varies from 2-1/4" to 1/4" depending on corregation orientation
ceiling: 2x4 framing @ 24" on center, radiant barrier in between steel and framing, normal fiberglass insulation in the 2x4 recessions, and finished off with 1" Rmax panels
do I really need the radiant barrier? the rmax panels have radiant barrier on either side of them, but I do live in a desert and although I had my container dropped in a partially shaded area of my property I'm betting this thing will get pretty hot being in direct sunlight in the middle of summer
I'm going to run 4 gavitas, a 2 ton mini split and I have a small dehuey if necessary...the climate is very dry especially in the winter...I'm really just hoping that I don't do all of this insulating only to have the ceiling and walls pouring down on top of me once I get this all up and running
