InterestingPie
Member
If you have a Y-duct and the post-ducting size reduces back to the original intake size what problems are encountered?
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Increasing/Reducing ducting sizes?
- Thread starter InterestingPie
- Start date
Flux451
Member
This is for intake? Not exhaust?
Regardless they may be the same size but flow would be much more optimal if the fan and inline ducting was of greater width, since it is then funneled through (or from) two channels of equal (and together greater) width... if the flow from your fan and connected ducting is how much you need (divided into each room) your fine since the Y shouldn't restrict much at all, but the Y and post Y ducts could deliver more if it were provided
EXAMPLE - If this was an exhaust system the fan would be overworked since two would be squeezed into one, like two lanes yielding into one in a traffic jam
The criticality of all this is dependent upon your veg and flower room size and temperatures, ambient temperatures drawn from... etc... use lots of circulatory fans
If you'd like more advice, I have many general understandings but it always helps to be more specific
Regardless they may be the same size but flow would be much more optimal if the fan and inline ducting was of greater width, since it is then funneled through (or from) two channels of equal (and together greater) width... if the flow from your fan and connected ducting is how much you need (divided into each room) your fine since the Y shouldn't restrict much at all, but the Y and post Y ducts could deliver more if it were provided
EXAMPLE - If this was an exhaust system the fan would be overworked since two would be squeezed into one, like two lanes yielding into one in a traffic jam
The criticality of all this is dependent upon your veg and flower room size and temperatures, ambient temperatures drawn from... etc... use lots of circulatory fans
If you'd like more advice, I have many general understandings but it always helps to be more specific
InterestingPie
Member
Sorry not to stipulate - Yeah I meant as exhaust. What would be the symptoms of this traffic jam and overworking? Fan burn out? Back pressure? Lack of power in each chamber (tents)?
Any ventilation system is only as large as its smallest aperture. So, if the numbers you're using is metric, you have a 100mm system. Better to have both 100mm tubing going to a 150mm Y followed by 150mm tubing/fan/exhaust port. Two 100mm circles equals 15.7 cm2, but one 150mm circle is 17.6625 cm2.
Also, if one room gets warmer than the other, you can install a damper to choke down the flow from the cooler room forcing more draw from the warmer room.
hth
Also, if one room gets warmer than the other, you can install a damper to choke down the flow from the cooler room forcing more draw from the warmer room.
hth
Flux451
Member
I'm not sure what you mean by lack of power... I guess you mean lack of exhaust, which could be true, all one can really do is monitor the environments and see if there is a lack.
(If you search ventilation threads there is a ratio recommended. something like replace the volume of your space every two minutes)
There should be no pressure build up or even much of a increase in noise with this system, I guess it could sound a little more raspy but that parts safe.
It makes the fan work harder though I wouldn't imagine it would cause it to burn out too fast either... its your call - watch it in action, and, the faster you supply new air and CO2 to plants the better, however - on humid occasions (wet nights, etc) you may want to tone down the fresh supply of moisture - it's an alive deal!
(outlet dimmers DO wear fans out though, so one way to lower flow is to use an exhaust with a neutral intake, though this may be how your set up is full time I don't know... if thats 100mm, then no need to blow in indeed)
(If you search ventilation threads there is a ratio recommended. something like replace the volume of your space every two minutes)
There should be no pressure build up or even much of a increase in noise with this system, I guess it could sound a little more raspy but that parts safe.
It makes the fan work harder though I wouldn't imagine it would cause it to burn out too fast either... its your call - watch it in action, and, the faster you supply new air and CO2 to plants the better, however - on humid occasions (wet nights, etc) you may want to tone down the fresh supply of moisture - it's an alive deal!
(outlet dimmers DO wear fans out though, so one way to lower flow is to use an exhaust with a neutral intake, though this may be how your set up is full time I don't know... if thats 100mm, then no need to blow in indeed)
