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Ideas for Passive Intake on Tent with Closet Doors Shut

trouthugger

Active member
How can I set up a passive intake from the tents lower left port while still being able to shut my doors?

There is about half an inch between the door and carpet. Would shaving a little more off the door give me proper passive intake ventilation? Any ideas?

ShutDoors.jpg
IMG_9013.jpg
 

Ca++

Well-known member
What are the wall made of.
What's above the ceiling
What is under the carpet
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
You have no plans to use a scrubber for the odor? You would need at least a 4" inline for air exchange in such a closed environment IMO. I don't think passive will work well. If possible use a port at the top to extract with intake at the opposite side bottom. Without exhaust, your tents walls will prob accumulate condensation. It depends on how much air gets sucked in from around the door. Air exchange is super important.

 

trouthugger

Active member
You have no plans to use a scrubber for the odor? You would need at least a 4" inline for air exchange in such a closed environment IMO. I don't think passive will work well. If possible use a port at the top to extract with intake at the opposite side bottom. Without exhaust, your tents walls will prob accumulate condensation. It depends on how much air gets sucked in from around the door. Air exchange is super important.

I have a 6" Carbon Filter and 6" Exhaust Fan inside the tent extracting out of the top right corner (opposite of intake) of the tent and outside of the closet.
 

Three Berries

Active member
What's your exhaust fan rated at? Any bends in the piping will reduce flow considerably. You probably need about 3" at the bottom of the doors my guess. I have my intake filter box in a closet and the door is open 2" or so all the time (~2" x 80") plus whatever from top and bottom.. It has a 6" round duct with a 14" x 10" rectangular opening though the wall. My exhaust is a 6" AC Infinity that usually runs at 6 out of 10 max.

I think the numbers below are for the pressurized side.

CFM Sizing Chart For Flex Round Ducts (50-1,700 CFM)
Duct Size (Inches)Flex Duct Airflow (CFM)
5 inches50 CFM
6 inches75 CFM
7 inches110 CFM
8 inches160 CFM
9 inches225 CFM
10 inches300 CFM
12 inches480 CFM
14 inches700 CFM
16 inches1,000 CFM
18 inches1,300 CFM
20 inches1,700 CFM
 

Ca++

Well-known member
So cavities in each direction.
Less call them ducts.
Under the carpet is a good place to go into a duct, as access into floor voids isn't unusual to see, but to see them means lifting the carpet. If you own the home, you don't need to hide things so much though.
That duct under the floor reaches a long way. At times I have changed light fittings or installed smoke alarms such that holes in ceilings are covered. It's better still if you have another cupboard, as boxes stacked to the roof can cover holes. Even a high wall shelf can hold a box that touches the ceiling, and is an inlet
 

trouthugger

Active member
What's your exhaust fan rated at? Any bends in the piping will reduce flow considerably. You probably need about 3" at the bottom of the doors my guess. I have my intake filter box in a closet and the door is open 2" or so all the time (~2" x 80") plus whatever from top and bottom.. It has a 6" round duct with a 14" x 10" rectangular opening though the wall. My exhaust is a 6" AC Infinity that usually runs at 6 out of 10 max.

I think the numbers below are for the pressurized side.

CFM Sizing Chart For Flex Round Ducts (50-1,700 CFM)
Duct Size (Inches)Flex Duct Airflow (CFM)
5 inches50 CFM
6 inches75 CFM
7 inches110 CFM
8 inches160 CFM
9 inches225 CFM
10 inches300 CFM
12 inches480 CFM
14 inches700 CFM
16 inches1,000 CFM
18 inches1,300 CFM
20 inches1,700 CFM
I use 6" AC Infinity on the lowest setting for exhaust
 

trouthugger

Active member
So cavities in each direction.
Less call them ducts.
Under the carpet is a good place to go into a duct, as access into floor voids isn't unusual to see, but to see them means lifting the carpet. If you own the home, you don't need to hide things so much though.
That duct under the floor reaches a long way. At times I have changed light fittings or installed smoke alarms such that holes in ceilings are covered. It's better still if you have another cupboard, as boxes stacked to the roof can cover holes. Even a high wall shelf can hold a box that touches the ceiling, and is an inlet
I'm renting the home long term, which is why I prefer stealth and as little construction as possible. I don't mind going through drywall and patching it but carpet and floor might be a different story...
 

Ca++

Well-known member
I wouldn't cut the carpet. Just lift a corner.
What's behind the dry wall? Often homes have cupboards from different rooms, side by side.
I presume you have gone through the roof with your exhaust
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I have a 6" Carbon Filter and 6" Exhaust Fan inside the tent extracting out of the top right corner (opposite of intake) of the tent and outside of the closet.

I think that should be fine. With the doors closed, it will have an impact on the exchange rate. Are you Ok with cutting holes?. If you don't want to cut into the walls/Ceiling the door gap is the only option. You could take off 1" from the bottom. That should let in/out air when the door is closed. I would leave 1 side open whenever possible. Those doors are a lot easier to replace.

Cutting holes is easy. Just make sure there's nothing like water lines where you cut.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
That's nothing. That is my minimum speed I run 24/7. An inch at the bottom on both would be plenty.
Unfortunately the tent covers 1.5 doors. Though it would probably be enough with a centrifugal fan.



Edit: I'm apposed to cutting the doors. You can't put it back as it was. Somebody had already made a mess of that job. Likely the owner after the carpet went in. They know that gap. Otherwise you could pinch the carpet and underlay flat with a door plate.
 

Ca++

Well-known member
You could fit your own door/s ?
Then you could put a grill in each. Like a boiler cupboard. Bit rare these days, but it depends why you are hiding it anyway
 

trouthugger

Active member
You could fit your own door/s ?
Then you could put a grill in each. Like a boiler cupboard. Bit rare these days, but it depends why you are hiding it anyway
That is my next option is to put a vent on the door. But do I need it?
 
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trouthugger

Active member
I think that should be fine. With the doors closed, it will have an impact on the exchange rate. Are you Ok with cutting holes?. If you don't want to cut into the walls/Ceiling the door gap is the only option. You could take off 1" from the bottom. That should let in/out air when the door is closed. I would leave 1 side open whenever possible. Those doors are a lot easier to replace.

Cutting holes is easy. Just make sure there's nothing like water lines where you cut.
how would you cut holes? I'm not opposed to getting new door and cutting holes and replacing the old one when I move out.
 

trouthugger

Active member
A lot of fan for that. I have a 4" AC Infantry fan in a 30x30x60 tent and it's plenty.
I started small, but when I get a bigger tent I can still use it. Plus I figured a larger fan running at the lowest setting would be quieter than a smaller fan running at a higher setting. The only issue is it takes up more space.
 
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