i thought it was a N def

[Shmee]

well the title says it all. my plants leaves started turning yellow. i thought it was just a N deficiency so i gave it a little more nutrients then normal, but the problem just gets worse. thats why ive turned to everyone on this site. please, can anyone tell me what the hell is wrong with my plant. i looked in the sick plants forum and it kind of looks like a potassium deficiency, but i have no idea. please someone help.

 

[Guest]

Judging by the way the tips curl downward my guess is a phosphorous deficieny, Has your growth stunted? Whats your soil ph? I would flush before you add anything else IMO. It does kinda of look like a Potassium def, but I am not sure of that. How many weeks into flower are you? What are you feeding her by the way?

 

[Shmee]

Judging by the way the tips curl downward my guess is a phosphorous deficieny, Has your growth stunted? Whats your soil ph? I would flush before you add anything else IMO. It does kinda of look like a Potassium def, but I am not sure of that. How many weeks into flower are you? What are you feeding her by the way?

well im feeding her expert gardener 15 30 15 all purpose plant food(not the best i know). shes been in flower 4 weeks tomorow. i havent seen any real stunted growth, i only have a 100w hps light so growth is slow anyway. oh yeah, i had a ph meter but it broke and i dont have the money to get another one so i have no idea what the ph is. do you think i should flush after the soil dries a bit or do it right now. thanks for helping.

 

[Guest]

Flush now. use twice the amount of water as size of the pot. Let her dry and feed normal. A ph meter would help alot but I know how it goes man. I think ph may play a role in whats happening here. Also some yellowing is nomal but that is too much. As far as your nutes go I am not familar with them I dont grow with soil(hydro for me) but did once and I used shultz 15-54-10 for bloom I think it was. ratio might have been a little different with great success. Might want to get better nutes if possible. I am gonna do some talking with a soil grower buddy later for you and post back what he has to say.

 

[Shmee]

Flush now. use twice the amount of water as size of the pot. Let her dry and feed normal. A ph meter would help alot but I know how it goes man. I think ph may play a role in whats happening here. Also some yellowing is nomal but that is too much. As far as your nutes go I am not familar with them I dont grow with soil(hydro for me) but did once and I used shultz 15-54-10 for bloom I think it was. ratio might have been a little different with great success. Might want to get better nutes if possible. I am gonna do some talking with a soil grower buddy later for you and post back what he has to say.

wow thats great man! thanks so much for looking in to this,i'll flush her right a way and feed her when she dries. its nice to know people are still willing to help others. thanks again man.

p.s. i'll post in this thread again after i flush and feed her again. in the mean time if you find out anything form your buddy post it here or pm me, which ever.

 

[VanGrow]

The question isnt what defeciency you have.....you ve got a few....its why????
I doubt the solution is "adding" more of anything....if the soil has been wet it could be that......Thats some strong fert....i think its over fertilized causing all your problems....I would say water with fresh water and dont feed anymore....you see what that got you when you fed....things got worse....Defs arent the problem....something your doing is.....i ll bet the ec in your soil is very high.....sucking the life out of those plants....just my opinion.....
good luck


VanGrow

 

[MTF-Sandman]

^^Yeah, I'm leaning towards a lockout as well. Flush em and see how they respond before doing anymore nuting. If the damage stops spreading a few days to a week after the flush then you're nute levels were too high. It's also very possible that you've got some PH probs as well, so try to get a sample of the nute water and the runoff and take it to a hydro shop to check the levels if you can't afford a decent meter.

 

[Shmee]

The question isnt what defeciency you have.....you ve got a few....its why????
I doubt the solution is "adding" more of anything....if the soil has been wet it could be that......Thats some strong fert....i think its over fertilized causing all your problems....I would say water with fresh water and dont feed anymore....you see what that got you when you fed....things got worse....Defs arent the problem....something your doing is.....i ll bet the ec in your soil is very high.....sucking the life out of those plants....just my opinion.....
good luck


VanGrow

so your saying i shouldnt flush and stop feeding it period or just lower the dose and not feed it as often.oh and whats "ec" never heard that before.

edit: sandman me and you posted at the same time. i will still flush it. thanks all of you for the help.

 

[dogmeat]

it does look like a PH lock. Maybe a little nute burn cant tell too much without being closer.

 

[Core]

if you flush them 2 get out all the nutes...you should flush again afterwards with a weak fertilizer....otherwise you gonne be worse of....IMO

 

[sproutco]

Maybe I can give you some insight if you answer a few questions...

What is the ph of your soil mix? This is important. Directions for testing are in my signature below. Follow them closely. You should at least get some ph test strips for a couple dollars from the aquarium section of a petstore.

What do you mean by normal feeding? How much 15-30-15 are you using per gallon of water? You should be using about 2.5 to 3.75 grams per gallon of water. This works out to be about 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon.

Does the 15-30-15 contain all the micronutrients? They are iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, and molybdenum. Some shultz ferts lack some micros that are important. Check your label.

Is there dolomite lime in your soil mix? This provides calcium and magnesium that the shultz ferts definately lack. Its good to add calcium and magnesium to your ferts in the water even with dolomite lime in the soil. 1/4 teaspoon of both powdered gypsum and epsom salts per gallon of water along with the shultz/regular ferts. Do this maybe every third fert or every fert if levels have run low.

You can get powdered gypsum at a good garden center. Hoffman is a brand.
You might send the company that makes it a email listed below to find a store. Also try calling around rather than waste gas looking.

Good Earth, Inc.
Marketing Department
P.O. Box 290
Lancaster, NY 14086
Tel: 716-684-8111
Fax: 716-684-3722
[email protected]

Epsom salts you can get at the drugstore.

What is the type of nitrogen in the shultz ferts? Alot of cheap ferts contain urea and/or ammonia nitrogen and little or no nitrate nitrogen. This can lead to ammonia toxicity especially in potting soils and not outdoors in the ground. Check your label.

Ammonium toxicity: leaves in the mid and lower portion of the plant become chlorotic and possibly thickened. Leaves curl to give a wilted appearance or simply become distorted. Older leaf necrosis then follows usually from the margin inward; root tips take on an orange brown color as they die

Your applying alot of phosphorus. This builds up in the soil mix and can be toxic. Symptoms could appear as if the plant has potassium def. Every third or fourth fert when using high p ferts, it might be wise to take a break and apply a fert with nitrogen and potassium but no p. 13-0-44 potassium nitrate is an excellent choice. It contains no ammonia or urea that could be toxic. 1/2-3/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. This is the ingredient in some stump removers. Dexol, grants, spectricide, greenlight are some brands that definately contain just 13-0-44. If you find another brand, check the label for ingredients. You can also look the brands material safety data sheet (msds) up on the internet and find out exactly what the ingredients are. Home depot and Lowes both should carry a stump remover.

Phosphorus toxicity: general yellowing of leaves, older leaf tips and margins later become yellowish or brownish, followed by colored necrotic spots; leaf abscission develops (leaf loss); similar to potassium deficiency in some plants and nitrogen excess in others

 

[Guest]

Sproutco, he said he has no money to be buing all that shit. Are you a salesman for stump removal?? Dont confuse him with all that lab talk this problem can not be fixed by adding this that and the other. He needs to flush for a week or more. Just watch the plants. I would hold back on feeding for a while. Maybe a light feed a week or 2 later IMO. SHMEE, is there any way you can get some sorta ph tester? Maybe check a nursey for those cheap soil PH test kits. The ones that have a tube and a tablet. There like a $1.50 I think. I think you have ph lock out causing a few defeciencies. Either that or do like MTF-sandman suggested and get a soil run off sample and go to the hydro store. Do you remember what the ph of your water was when you had a meter?

 

[agro]

i agree with haze toker flush and wait 3 days to see how plants react,hey srpoutco what are you smoking? ...that bad shit for sure

agro

 

[HeadyPete]

I was wondering about micronutrients as a lot of these commercial chemical plant foods are misssing them.

Next crop I'd switch to a quality complete organic fert.

I would agree that those plants probably do not need any more ferts.

 

[Shmee]

well sproutco to answer some of your questions. i give it about 1\2 teaspoon per feeding, it does have all the micronutrients that you put there, no my soil does not have dolomite lime. about the nitrogen 4.8% is ammoniacal, 3.2% is nitrate, and 7% is urea.

hazetoker-i do have a pool store in the small town that i live in so i can get some of those ph test strips.

headypete-i am saving my money to get a good fox farm nutrient for the next grow.

thanks everyone for the good advice especially you sproutco, some very good info i didnt know. so my plan is to flush wait a few days to see if it gets better or worse and go from there. thanks again for the help eveybody!

 

[sproutco]

Your using 80% ammonia or urea. You should never go over 50% in potting soil. Ammonia toxicity Try to follow the rest of the suggestions.


Ammonium toxicity: leaves in the mid and lower portion of the plant become chlorotic and possibly thickened. Leaves curl to give a wilted appearance or simply become distorted. Older leaf necrosis then follows usually from the margin inward; root tips take on an orange brown color as they die

 

[Shmee]

Your using 80% ammonia or urea. You should never go over 50% in potting soil. Ammonia toxicity Try to follow the rest of the suggestions.


Ammonium toxicity: leaves in the mid and lower portion of the plant become chlorotic and possibly thickened. Leaves curl to give a wilted appearance or simply become distorted. Older leaf necrosis then follows usually from the margin inward; root tips take on an orange brown color as they die

Thanks Spoutco i will.

 

[sproutco]

Ammonia interferes with the function of calcium in the plant. You might add the gypsum (calcium sulfate) + epsom to the ferts. Switching to potassium nitrate like i suggested would put your plant on a 100% nitrate nitrogen diet with no chances of ammonia toxicity anymore. You could not do this too long because it lacks phosphorus, micros, etc...If you used the shultz twice and potassium nitrate once over the course of 3 ferts, you would average about 50% nitrate which might be good enough to avoid toxicity. Keep temps warm. Follow other suggestions...

 

[sproutco]

Ammonium toxicity. This is not so common anymore because most growers use water-soluble fertilizers that supply about 50/50 ammonium and nitrate to fertilize plants in soilless media.

http://www.umass.edu/umext/floriculture/fact_sheets/specific_crops/bedfert.html