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Hygrozyme Info

Scrogerman

Active member
Veteran
Ah someone finally in the know!!Great....!

Ah someone finally in the know!!Great....!

Thanks for the info Guys, i have 60f'in quids worth of this stuff lying about.
Couple of Qs
1. Why does Cannazyme & other zyme products work clean and not cause the algae.??
I went out & got some(Cannazyme) cause i know its clean and i dont need to add anything to it either! I do know there is a lot more enzymes in the hygropoo. I was thinking of using Gardian Angel with the hygrozyme.
2.What Beneficials do you recommend my system is NFT.?
"Its grow time" Ive been lurking around and noticed that you were quite involved in the threads concerning this issue, i know you must have got to the bottom of things and i'd appreciate the anwsers on this stuff, so thanks in advance for any help you give me here bro'!
3.Can you give me a link to the relevent info on hygrozyme & why i need to add beneficials and when etc.?
Hey really - Thanks for chiming in guys-looking forward to your response's!
Peace....Be-Lucky...........scroger' :eggnog:
It is recommended in a sort of way that you can use H2O2 with hygrozyme-that sort of gets the bells ringing.
 

WeedIsGod

Member
Scrogerman: I think It'sGrowTime pretty much said it all, but I think I can give you a bit more detailed description by use of analogy. Much like humans shed skin, which, btw, makes up a huge percentage of the dust in your home, plants do also which includes their roots. You can think of Hygrozyme as a beauty face cream for women with micro beads that exfoliate their faces, making them appear smoother and younger. Well this stuff sorta exfoliates your roots which allows it to either grow new tissue faster some how or just expose younger root tissue which is better for water/nutrient absorbtion which leads to faster growth? Anyway, all the slough that comes off the roots gets into your reservoir and bad microorganisms start to feed on this stuff and multiply, hence scummy reservoirs and root rot. But there is still hope. If you inoculate the res with a beneficial bacteria or use some sort of root rot inhibitor before applying Hygrozyme it can actually make a nice little micro-ecosystem in your reservoir which can, when used correctly, promote accelerated growth.

bghydro.com said:
SubCulture-B is a probiotic inoculum of beneficial microorganisms that will help increase the vitality and yield in all plants. Whether in soil or hydroponics, our proprietary blend of bacteria and trichoderma fungi colonize the root zone and media to form a symbiotic relationship with your plants. Root systems will increase, as well as nutrient absorption; thus creating bigger, healthier plants. Start with SubCulture-M, add SubCulture-B to establish root systems. Microbiological root diseases will be supplanted by the colonized beneficial microbes; as the beneficial organisms out-compete the pathogenic organisms.

bghydro.com said:
For Treatment of Root Diseases:
SM-90 is a root disease inhibitor which controls common anaerobic fungal and bacterial pathogens. Effective treatment for root disease from ascomycetes pathogens including fusarium, pythium, rhizoctonia, phytopthera, sclerotinia, etc. When added in small quantities directly to plant nutrient solutions, root disease infestations are inhibited and new root growth emerges. Treated plants develop greater root area and root runs and exhibit a generally healthier root development.
Additional Benefits:
Controlled lab and greenhouse tests revealed an unexpected benefit that was observed with the treated subjects. Results indicate that SM-90 dramatically increases the transpiration rate which improves the plants water and nutrient uptake capability. The plants treated consistently used 30% more water and nutrients than the control plants. This would result in an increased metabolism and accelerated growth rate.


Why Cannazyme doesn't cause root rot, I can only guess. Pretty sure we can say, however, that it is because one is doing something that the other isn't. As to why I have no clue, but I think it could be bad or good depending on how you look at-and act upon-it. That said, use one product or the other in regards to SM-90 and any culture you might use. SM-90 cancels it out, but from the looks of it SM-90+Hygrozyme does many of the same things as a culture+Hygrozyme, but in different ways. Speaking of different ways, has anyone tried Florashield+culture set+Hygrozyme?
 

Cat Jockey

Member
Throw me in the 'NIMR' column. Not In My Reservoir. I did not like it nor had good luck with it. And it is expensive as hell to boot. Plenty of people love it and find it beneficial, and that is their prerogative. And no offense to those that swear by it, but until I come across a side by side between two res' in the same environment, I remain a bit unconvinced that it does anything for yield or quality.

If you research it, you will find a pretty healthy dose of anti-hygro folks. It seems to be split as far as consensus. Bottom line, if as many people have had problems with hygro as seem to have had and the price is as high as it is, then spend your money on something else is my advice. Save what you would spend on pricey hygro and improve your environment. CO2, AC, proper RH and temps and airflow, etc.

I further qualify my remarks by stating that I think that a lot of companies are making a lot of money these days coming out with the latest greatest weed growing additive, guaranteed to give you elephant dick sized colas. I think a lot of these additives are unnecessary and nothing more than snake oil. I am not calling Hygro snake oil, but defintitely I think it to be unnecessary and a waste of money.
 

Scrogerman

Active member
Veteran
I'm interested what you got to say. My initial thoughts are that cannazym only has 12 enzymes where hygro has a hell of alot more, of course they are gonna do slightly different things. with the Cannazym i dont have to add any bene's and my res stays clean just the dead floating roots in my res which i filter out of course. Why does hygro do this why do you have to add bene's when you use hygrozyme and not with Cannazym. These are the anwsers i'm looking for.
I got a load of Hygro knocking about and want to get it used up. I need to know why adding bene's works with this stuff and how long it takes to colonise the roots with bene's before i can use it. and also why the sm-90 product works with it too, dont get it here, so i need an alternative product basically.
In summary i can use it with sm 90 or a similar product or add bene's to my res-HOW LONG BEFORE i can start using the hygro'.
Thanks for the responses guys Cool as fk'. What your take on things "its grow time"?
Do you get my Q's buddy?

"Peace & Respect"....................Scroger'
 

WeedIsGod

Member
superultramega: What about a recirculating DWC like Blazeoneup's?

Scrogger: I think Cannazym has something to break down the root remains which helps protect against pathogenic organisms. I don't believe Hygrozyme has anything like that, however, if it does it can't keep up. ItsGrowTime said it should only take a matter of days for your culture to settle in. It just needs to get a head start on its competitors, but I bet it varies per the culture used (check directions on the bottle?). And yes, SM-90 can be used in conjunction with Hygrozyme and not beneficial microbes (SM-90 kills everything!). I hear it works very well and is what I plan on using. Just for the record, I have no real experience with any of these products yet. This info is based off online research and a bit of personal speculation.
 

Scrogerman

Active member
Veteran
Listen to these other guys and get bene's in there or the sm-90 or yeah you'll get the slime in a recirc DWC too if you use hygrozyme, i've seen it first hand bm!!Use Cannazym and no slime!!simple!
Peace..........Scroger!
 

opt1c

Well-known member
Veteran
i don't think hygrozyme plays nice in reservoirs; seems ok for adding to batches of food for feeding soil/coco plants etc...


if i want to clean my res and i'm not going the ewc beneficial route there is nothing that keeps a res cleaner than some dutch master's zone if you ask me
 

WeedIsGod

Member
So has anyone seen the brown algae in E&F?
Why would it matter? Your reservoir will pretty much stagnate/be in a state of DWC no matter what. Is it a matter of root to flowing water interaction? Roots simply can't stagnate in the stuff?

i don't think hygrozyme plays nice in reservoirs; seems ok for adding to batches of food for feeding soil/coco plants etc...
What did you use it with, i.e. nutes and supplements?
 
C

chytil151

this is for scrogerman,

If u check out big tokes tute on the bio-bucket he will tell you all u need to know about colonizing BB in a rez. Rule of thumb from big toke that is, is that u should let ur BB colonize for at least 10 days to 2 weeks to have a strong BB colony.In less you add a jump start BB to speed up the proccess. When i used hygrozyme in my dwc I had mixed results. When i added it to a system that had a BB colonized it worked wonders w/ breaking down old root mass . But when i added it to a fresh rez. w/o a BB colonized it created an algae like no other killing roots with in 6 hrs. of adding it to the fresh nute's. you could literally see the sludge growing before ur eyes. In less u catch it early and do a massive sterilize and cleaning to your whole system This stuff will NOT go away and to me this was not worth the money in buy'n all new pumps, airstones, buckets, air line let alone all the time it takes to set everything back up or the girls we love so much looking super in the begining and dying before ur eyes it only took 1 insident like this to change my thoughts on this product. To this day I am still sceptical about any additives other than chemical for chemical and organic for organic in my system's Plus the cost of the hygrozyme isn't cheap to begin with.
 

Scrogerman

Active member
Veteran
Thanks Bro'

Thanks Bro'

Right on dude, Thanks for the info chytil151, i really respect Bigtoke's threads & got a load of his stuff permenently bookmarked, he's taught me a load of stuff, especially helping me understand water chemistry, thats a great thread. Do you have the link there buddy? i'll try to find it though.!
Thanks alot anyway dude, so in summary i need to colonise for 14 days then i can use the hygropoo. Do you think i would get away using Oxy+(H2O2) as its recommended that you may use the stuff with hygropoo and it makes me wonder if that is what it was designed for use with H2o2, as its recommended by my hydro supplier c/o!??
Thanks for your response great buddy, really appreciate it!
Peace & Much Respect'............Scroger'

Quote: Is Organically reg'ed(OMHCI-listed organic)something like that, and is the ONLY enzymatic product that is suitable for use with H2O2! Interesting ah & makes me wonder why?-"ANYONE" know the reason why they rec the use of this with hygropoo, gets me thinking allsorts as h2o2 kills fk'in everything it touches thats organic !?

Do you think the supplier is trying to help users of this stuff out by recommending its use with h2o2, so as to kill all the nasties it will help produce? ie - Brown algae-is this one of them the use of h2o2 from the beginning of use will this eliminate the algae or not? or at least stop it from getting a foot-hold. i wonder as i think once algae gets a foot-hold h2o2 will not work only physan 20 then -or curtains!
 

Cat Jockey

Member
Cat Jockey: Do you remember what you used in conjunction with Hygrozyme?

At the time, it was PBP, C/M+, LK and some GH Kool Bloom liquid. Again, I know some people swear by it and have great luck. One of my beefs is that I think it can be a catalyst for issues that would have otherwise remained latent if it was not addede and catch a grower unaware, especially a newbie, with a problem that has the potential to destroy a crop prior to harvest. Plus, it is pretty pricey and I just think there to be better investments of capital to improve yield and quality that don't carry the potential to ruin your crop.

But again, to each their own and some people swear by it and have great results. But again, some people swear by GH FloraNova as the only necessary ingredient ... and have great results. People have popped gram/watt using nothing more than 16mL/ga of GH Flora Bloom and 8 mL Flora Micro.

I dunno, the longer I study the subject of growing the digitty dank, the less convinced I am of the benefit of additives and complex nute regimes. Don't get me wrong, I think there to be great additives out there that work and can have a positive effect on both yield and quality, but the next time you are holding a $50.00 bottle of Hygrozyme in your hand at the grow store to add to a shelf in your grow room that already has 6 different nutrient products costing several hundred dollars, ask yourself:

'How the fuck do people get a gram/watt off of the Lucas Formula?'
 

Cat Jockey

Member
So has anyone seen the brown algae in E&F?

Yes. I only saw it when I used Hygro. It also went away when I stopped using Hygro mid flower without completely sterilizing the system and only a res change, a mild soap scrub of tray and res and a good, hot, plain water rinsing of pumps, stones, etc. And I haven't seen it since.

That made up my mind, pretty much, that it had the potential to introduce otherwise latent non-issues and was not worth the risk for whatever benefits it may provide. But, I am obviously unwilling to fully explore and experiment with the benefits, if there are any, for many reasons.
 

WeedIsGod

Member
Thanks for your input. Appreciated greatly. I plan on using something close to the Lucas formula with Hygrozyme, SM-90 and Nutriboost 1. Does this sound out of control for a newb? I just want my girls to be happy, not freaks of nature... as cool as that would be.
 
I've been using Hygrozyme for over a year with great results, in D.W.C., ala RubberChicken & TrainOne from Overgrow. I have been growing with this method for about 8 years. I used to use SM90, but not anymore, just 8 ml per gal of Hygrozyme. My roots look great, I will attach a picture. I have had slime and algae in the past, and I found two things, hi-temps and a Calcium Deficiency. Lack of air could also be a problem, I use about 2L per bucket, ie a Alita 40 would do 20 buckets. I use a 4 inch airstone, per bucket. I keep my water temps around 75-80 during the day, and it drops down to about 60 at night, and it works great. My nutes are a modified G.H. Lucas mix with some additives for the micro stuff...
 

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Thanks for your input. Appreciated greatly. I plan on using something close to the Lucas formula with Hygrozyme, SM-90 and Nutriboost 1. Does this sound out of control for a newb? I just want my girls to be happy, not freaks of nature... as cool as that would be.

You gotta a problem with some freaky girls? These freakazoids are 25 days in flower.... Grape Ape!:yoinks:
 

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