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Hygrozyme for soil/soiless - Great results
- Thread starter jmansweed
- Start date
Chronic777
Member
Ive been using this stuff, at first on one plant & not on another, then on both.
The plant i used it on grew a bit faster, but also grew a deformed leaf, not sure ifits related but id bet it is
The plant i didn't use it on has now surpassed the one i did!
I waited until it was a week or so older to use Hygrozyme on it
I may have used slightly too much of it on the first plant, but only slightly (3.5ml/lter)
I was also using Bio-Rhizotonic at the same time, the plants were seedlings...
Id recommend this stuff as the plant i used it on grew faster, but id also say use it sparingly especially on young seedlings, or wait until you are in the first week of decent Veg growth
The plant i used it on grew a bit faster, but also grew a deformed leaf, not sure ifits related but id bet it is
The plant i didn't use it on has now surpassed the one i did!
I waited until it was a week or so older to use Hygrozyme on it
I may have used slightly too much of it on the first plant, but only slightly (3.5ml/lter)
I was also using Bio-Rhizotonic at the same time, the plants were seedlings...
Id recommend this stuff as the plant i used it on grew faster, but id also say use it sparingly especially on young seedlings, or wait until you are in the first week of decent Veg growth
Chronic777
Member
Cool, im a first time grower so good to know!
I started one plant & said i was not gonna use anything on it but light & water, but then i saw how well the Hygrozyme & Bio-Rhizotonic plant was growing & had to start using it on both!
I started one plant & said i was not gonna use anything on it but light & water, but then i saw how well the Hygrozyme & Bio-Rhizotonic plant was growing & had to start using it on both!
psycho pirate
Member
I'll vouch for the Hygrozyme... I started using it when i was running DWC because i had high temps and it was the only thing that would keep my res clean... Now that i use soil/soiless organic I have kept using it because you can tell that the root systems on the plants are much healthier when using Hygro
I have been searching all over IC's site for nutrient info and there is very little. Any Nutrient help would be hugely beneficial. I have been growing for a few years now with a health canada exemption but nobody tells you how to feed your plants except the manufacture on the bottles.
jmansweed
Member
B. Friendly - not sure if you checked it out but my nute study might have some valuble info if your up for the read:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=149234
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=149234
B. Friendly, I would encourage you to start a new thread, as this topic needs further discussion. Warning: there will be drama and childish antics, and a clash of egos. The field is in transition from a traditional european concept (characterized IMO by heavy applications of manure and other natural amendments high in ionic nutes) and the NPK paradigm that fueled the environmental disaster of the century - to an approach based on the soil food web that seeks foremost to cultivate what we lovingly call our microherd.
The short answer I can give is you never have to think about nutes, pH, and flushing again if you take the time to cultivate a good soil well populated with the right microbes.
You know how devout christians say their treasures are stored in heaven? Well, all the nutrients I will ever need are or will be stored in microbes, not bottles or bags of manure. When a plant needs nutrients, it asks for or robs them from the microherd, at a cost. Just like the market regulates overconsumption (er... ideally), the cost of acquiring nutes from the microherd discourages overconsumption for plants.
Nitrogen - found in proteins, for instance, required for bacteria, and easily acquired from predation by protists.
Phosphorous - the basic unit of cellular energy used by every member of the herd (and the guy watering it) is called adenosine triphosphate, or ATP. You guessed it, each unit carries three P ions.
this list goes on and on, well beyond my knowledge set. but what it means, in short, is that the best way to determine true quality is not through chemical analysis of soluble ions, but by looking through the microscope and measuring density and diversity of microbes.
You should listen to both sides, and make up your own mind.
The short answer I can give is you never have to think about nutes, pH, and flushing again if you take the time to cultivate a good soil well populated with the right microbes.
You know how devout christians say their treasures are stored in heaven? Well, all the nutrients I will ever need are or will be stored in microbes, not bottles or bags of manure. When a plant needs nutrients, it asks for or robs them from the microherd, at a cost. Just like the market regulates overconsumption (er... ideally), the cost of acquiring nutes from the microherd discourages overconsumption for plants.
Nitrogen - found in proteins, for instance, required for bacteria, and easily acquired from predation by protists.
Phosphorous - the basic unit of cellular energy used by every member of the herd (and the guy watering it) is called adenosine triphosphate, or ATP. You guessed it, each unit carries three P ions.
this list goes on and on, well beyond my knowledge set. but what it means, in short, is that the best way to determine true quality is not through chemical analysis of soluble ions, but by looking through the microscope and measuring density and diversity of microbes.
You should listen to both sides, and make up your own mind.
