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hydrohuts
- Thread starter bugbud63
- Start date
to be honest i dont use an intake fan for my 3x3 hut. I have a six inch can fan pulling air through the hood and venting through the top. I have had no light leak issues from the vent flaps. I keep the plants on the inside above the flap level so that helps.
Try tacking a long piece of dark but lightweight fabric that is large enough to cover the whole vent and then hang over the edge of the flap by a couple inches- when you're running the exhaust fan during lights-on, it will lift by air pressure and fall again when the fan is off.
I've never seen light leak probs with a hydrohut though- is your inner floor installed properly?
I've never seen light leak probs with a hydrohut though- is your inner floor installed properly?
stretchpup
Active member
I bought a roll of industrial strength Velcro and applied it to the inside of the flaps in my mini. Been shut even sense... and it's been almost 10 runs in the tent.
stretchpup
Active member
Running 400w..
A 4" Vortex pulls air through my glass hood, and pushes it out of the tent and into a carbon scrubber on the floor next to the tent.
The 4" moves a lot of air and pulls fresh air in passively, no intake needed.
Unless you had intake from a separate clean room or an AC unit I wouldn't worry about it.
I also run two other cabs in the same room, and keep the room dark in general.
A 4" Vortex pulls air through my glass hood, and pushes it out of the tent and into a carbon scrubber on the floor next to the tent.
The 4" moves a lot of air and pulls fresh air in passively, no intake needed.
Unless you had intake from a separate clean room or an AC unit I wouldn't worry about it.
I also run two other cabs in the same room, and keep the room dark in general.
OK, just look @ stretchpup's pics, notice how he's hung mylar, and hung it long enough to go between the inner and outer floor. That solves your light leak problem w/ the vents. HH needs to make those vent flaps longer to catch the inner floor and keep 'em down. If I turned on my vortex 6" on full, it sucks those flaps right up! But I don't run it on full. :wink:
I've also heard peeps using furnace filters over the vents?
My HH has a BIG light leak where the btm zips meet, and the vertical one starts. Presto Change-o VELCRO!
I've also heard peeps using furnace filters over the vents?
My HH has a BIG light leak where the btm zips meet, and the vertical one starts. Presto Change-o VELCRO!
did you guys have pinhole light leaks? i bought a 4 x 4 and my buddy had a hard time putting it together. got a 600hps digi aircooled with a canfan for extraction. also got a speed controller for the canfan and a carbon filter as well. how do you guys keep the flaps lightproof while trying to maintain negative pressure? any problems with the zippers malfunctioning? very excited to see what that 600 will churn out...
G
Guest
Use "seam sealer" for pinhole leaks.
Velcro for the zipper tabs
I put cardboard painted white on the inside between flaps and innner tub wall.
I have a 4" 90cfm blower blowing air in thru the lower front left side port.
My carbon filter hangs top right. Air is pulled out thru it with a Dayton 465 sitting outside. (6x4 adapter needed) Makes very little noise. Squirrel cage fans beat Vortex style hands down for noise. No speed controller needed. Both squirrel cage blowers run wide open I can't hear them in the other bedroom and I have peeps living over me.
I don't need to pull thru my 400W light. Temps stay in mid 70s. Sometimes it is cooler inside the tent than in the bedroom it is in!! Being in a cold climate helps
This setup creates a negative pressure in the tent. Sides suck in slightly. Hydrohuts are not made perfectly. They beat the hell out of anything else out there on the market. I found mine very easy to setup. Took maybe 30 minutes. Working like a champ.
MT
Left side with 90cfm intake blower
Mini hydrohut
Dayton 465 on right side
Day 63 of flower
Velcro for the zipper tabs
I put cardboard painted white on the inside between flaps and innner tub wall.
I have a 4" 90cfm blower blowing air in thru the lower front left side port.
My carbon filter hangs top right. Air is pulled out thru it with a Dayton 465 sitting outside. (6x4 adapter needed) Makes very little noise. Squirrel cage fans beat Vortex style hands down for noise. No speed controller needed. Both squirrel cage blowers run wide open I can't hear them in the other bedroom and I have peeps living over me.
I don't need to pull thru my 400W light. Temps stay in mid 70s. Sometimes it is cooler inside the tent than in the bedroom it is in!! Being in a cold climate helps
This setup creates a negative pressure in the tent. Sides suck in slightly. Hydrohuts are not made perfectly. They beat the hell out of anything else out there on the market. I found mine very easy to setup. Took maybe 30 minutes. Working like a champ.
MT
Left side with 90cfm intake blower
Mini hydrohut
Dayton 465 on right side
Day 63 of flower
I built a table in my 4' x 4' hydrohut. The top of the table was just over the tops of the flaps so with a 6" inline fan sucking air in and the flaps open there is no light coming out. The table makes everything under it nice and dark (lightproof) without restricting intake air flow too much. I have a few 4" notches on the edge of the table with 4" ducting going from the top of the hut to the bottom (top is over table, bottom is under). The exhaust fan creates a vaccum in the hut and the sides of the hut are sucked close to the edge of the table so the 4" ducts allow intake air to flow from bottom to top.
I've used this 4 x 4 for over a year now and no problems so far.
I've used this 4 x 4 for over a year now and no problems so far.
stretchpup
Active member
lc00p4 said:
I wish I went 600 originally!
Yep, my mini had a couple pinholes right out of the box. Never patched em.
I keep them in a back room, always dim and on the dark side, and run two other contained cabs in the same room. I also leave the door to the room open for air circulation and some indirect light does get in the room, and hasn't been a problem in a couple years.
Heavy duty velcro on the inside of the flaps, then mylar to hang over them... air still gets through the velcro ya know. I used to cut filters to fit but have to do it too often so I stopped and just keep the room extra clean.
My zipper at the bottom started to fray on the flap. I had to use some gorilla duct tape to patch it up but it's doing fine.
That's after opening and closing it at least once a day for the past 2 years or so.
G
Guest
texasluv said:
Hi!
I built a table for mini too. I use it when the plants are small. Later I have to take it out because of height limits in my mini, the feature I don't like most on the mini. It needs to be as tall as the regular huts and have 6" ports. Anyway...do you find the table restricts you to SOG/SCROG grows or do you rmove it as plants get taller?
MT
PS
I left the pinholes alone so far. I may seal them since I have a haze hybrid grow coming next. They aren't a big deal at all. I have pics of the light leaks "as it came without any modification" They don't amount to shit.
sativalicious
Member
Hi.
Great ideas here. I was surprised by the flaps and how much light leaked from an unmodified HydroHut. The solutions described here are good. I think the mylar will help light dissipation too; as the white plastic sides are nice and all, but not reflecting as well as my previous enclosure, which was much smaller but covered with mylar style insulation that looked like bubble wrap. The reflection was awesome.
Does anybody wish the wire-like metal cross-members at the top were stronger? It seems only the lightest lamp assembly will not cause the ceiling supports to distend and sag downward. I wish not to lose a single inch of vertical height due to sagging. I think the wimpy supports provided with hydrohut is one of the weakest aspects of an otherwise (apparently) decent product.
Has anyone created a modification that would serve as a light support? I am not handy with materials so I am unfamiliar with potential options. It seems that I could obtain a 5/8 diameter (actual width but may be known as 1/2 inch) pipe like those that come with the HydroHut kit, and attach two end caps with a U shape to each end of the pipe (or smash the ends of the pipe and fashion into a U-shape; then I could set the U-shaped ends over the front and back (perpendicular) cross members. This would provide a strong support "beam" for hanging a heavy light.
Does anyone have ideas of how to make a support beam that does not sag? Is there a better way to easily fabricate such a part from components that are readily available at the hardware store? I do not have tools for anything major so I am dependent upon local services of the hardware store, like cutting pipe to a specific length, etc.
Thanks!
Sat
Great ideas here. I was surprised by the flaps and how much light leaked from an unmodified HydroHut. The solutions described here are good. I think the mylar will help light dissipation too; as the white plastic sides are nice and all, but not reflecting as well as my previous enclosure, which was much smaller but covered with mylar style insulation that looked like bubble wrap. The reflection was awesome.
Does anybody wish the wire-like metal cross-members at the top were stronger? It seems only the lightest lamp assembly will not cause the ceiling supports to distend and sag downward. I wish not to lose a single inch of vertical height due to sagging. I think the wimpy supports provided with hydrohut is one of the weakest aspects of an otherwise (apparently) decent product.
Has anyone created a modification that would serve as a light support? I am not handy with materials so I am unfamiliar with potential options. It seems that I could obtain a 5/8 diameter (actual width but may be known as 1/2 inch) pipe like those that come with the HydroHut kit, and attach two end caps with a U shape to each end of the pipe (or smash the ends of the pipe and fashion into a U-shape; then I could set the U-shaped ends over the front and back (perpendicular) cross members. This would provide a strong support "beam" for hanging a heavy light.
Does anyone have ideas of how to make a support beam that does not sag? Is there a better way to easily fabricate such a part from components that are readily available at the hardware store? I do not have tools for anything major so I am dependent upon local services of the hardware store, like cutting pipe to a specific length, etc.
Thanks!
Sat
stretchpup
Active member
sativa it's not that big of a deal. You planning on growing 7' trees? I'd try a flower run or two in it before you start modifying it... I mean it's 6.5' tall minimum, the regular is 7' - it wasn't an issue for me and I've done plants way too large. It's a perfectly legit concern, I thought the same when I put my hood in, but as it turns out it's fine. I always have at least a foot to spare even with my tallest plants.
lc00p if nobody posts any I'll grab some tonight. I only velcro'd down the sides on the inside flaps and not across the bottom of the flaps. It was enough.
Four Way
Kill Bill
It's a perfectly legit concern, I thought the same when I put my hood in, but as it turns out it's fine. I always have at least a foot to spare even with my tallest plants.lc00p if nobody posts any I'll grab some tonight. I only velcro'd down the sides on the inside flaps and not across the bottom of the flaps. It was enough.
Four Way
Kill Bill
sativalicious
Member
I believe you are joking and expressing "tongue in cheek" how a 7 foot tree would never fit. However, it does become apparent that one only has about 44 inches to work with, if... in a 7 foot hut when one considers 12 inches between the a powerful HPS and the top of the plant, the vertical height of a modest 5 gallon container, and the vertical height of the lamp fixture. I have a lamp clamped to the wimpy top support directly, with no chain or extender mechanism. The weight of the lamp alone is enough to make the support sag significantly. I was using those little black plastic retractable cord thingies as a light height adjustment system, however I lost too much vertical height from the support's sagging to use those adjusters, as they also "waste" a few inches of vertical height.stretchpup said:
I believe you when you say it is not a big deal. However you are probably speaking for yourself and your specific application's needs. What grow style are you using? Perhaps I should adopt that style too.
Until then, I'm still looking for a top support solution.
Cheers,
Sat
Hey man, this looks great. I have a mini-hydrohut and a standalone carbon filter. You say you hang it inside the hut? Is it a standalone filter? Anyway you could take a picture of the filter?
Thanks
Thanks
MTweedman said:Use "seam sealer" for pinhole leaks.
Velcro for the zipper tabs
I put cardboard painted white on the inside between flaps and innner tub wall.
I have a 4" 90cfm blower blowing air in thru the lower front left side port.
My carbon filter hangs top right. Air is pulled out thru it with a Dayton 465 sitting outside. (6x4 adapter needed) Makes very little noise. Squirrel cage fans beat Vortex style hands down for noise. No speed controller needed. Both squirrel cage blowers run wide open I can't hear them in the other bedroom and I have peeps living over me.
I don't need to pull thru my 400W light. Temps stay in mid 70s. Sometimes it is cooler inside the tent than in the bedroom it is in!! Being in a cold climate helps
This setup creates a negative pressure in the tent. Sides suck in slightly. Hydrohuts are not made perfectly. They beat the hell out of anything else out there on the market. I found mine very easy to setup. Took maybe 30 minutes. Working like a champ.
MT
