hvac help split system ac

[AVALANCHBUD]

installed a split system ac. During installation I lost a little refrigerant. unit was working good...until now. Now not cooling good. I know it needs refrigerant. So here's my question: Can it be recharged without the tec. gaining access to the inside unit? I can't have him inside cause I work all day, and so he would have to come do it with no one home to let him in. I am sure it can be done..OR HOPE IT CAN BE DONE I SHOULD SAY!! This sux as this thing was kickin ass b4 it caught up with me. ANYONE???

 

[ogatec]

they should be able to do it all outside, as long as here are no leaks n the copper that he might want to check out... just make sure everything else is done right so he wont have to go over any other problems.. someone will have to be there though to turn the unit on & off...

 

[AVALANCHBUD]

Idk what to do

Idk what to do

Thanks man, when would it have to be turned on and off? The indoor unit? Or just power to the out side. If outside I will just add a disconnect. If you mean run inside unit.. this may be a problem. He might want to try n get involved. Anyone with similar prob? Or knowledge of what I'm asking?

 

[Guest 18340]

Dude, im in the same fucking situation, only i need my lines evac'd, not recharged. Let me know how it goes, i got cloes going and the weather is warming up...

 

[cocktail frank]

the tech needs to get to your compressor.
which is the outdoor unit.
you really dont even need to run the machine while the charge takes place.

 

[ArcticBlast]

http://home.howstuffworks.com/home-...ng/how-to-repair-central-air-conditioners.htm

ArcticBlast

 

[ARTofMAKINGfire]

He will want to get inside.

As a tech. there is NO way I'm putting my "it's fixed" stamp on it without checking everything on both sides of the condensor.

You could test for leaks yourself by spraying some dish-soapy water on all joints that were welded. If there are little bubbles, that means gas is escaping.

Did you have a snap in fitting system where no braizing of pipes is required?

Otherwise? Did you evacute the unit into a vacuum to see if it holds a vacuum? Indicating there are NO leaks and removing ALL non-condensibles from INSIDE your line-set? If you didn't do this and braized copper pipes without pressurizing with Nitrogen gas, there are ALOT of impurities that formed on the INSIDE of your pipes from welding that very well could have reaked HAVOC on you condendor. You cannot condense a "non-condensible" (such as water) and if they reach the condensor, bye bye.

About how much gas do you think you lost?

Do you know WHAT KIND of gas your unit uses? R-22? R-410?(High pressure gas, aka Puron in Carrier systems)

You cannot mix gases. If you has a set of refridgerant gauges, I could walk you through.

How was this installed?

 

[Mr.M]

Artofmakingfire is correct. No good tech will want to charge a leaky system. A system is only as good as the install no matter what the make, model, SEER. A system must be running in order to correctly charge it. Depending on the type of control/metering device used (orifice, txv, etc) the tech will need to charge your system based on the superheat or sub-cool method requiring the unit to be running (optimally at least 15 min). The tech will also want to make sure the indoor unit is functioning properly and has the proper airflow for the condenser tonnage. Your best bet is to find a bro who is a pro or temporarily transfer your op.

ArtofMakingFire- Nice post. Many techs/installers overlook the nitrogen purge while brazing, a nitrogen pressure check, and the importance of a triple evac or a micron guage to ensure a clean, leak free system.

Peace,
M

 

[Zeinth]

yup

yup

theres a leak somewere..gonna have to use dyes or thermo gun to trace leak..then patch and check pressure at valve heads...r22 or 410a. check voltage windup on start.

 

[Mr.M]

I'd stay away from the dyes. I personally like the Yokogawa H10-G. You have to get used to setting it correctly because it can be a bit touchy.

 

[ogatec]

i would use pre-manufacured copper line sets, cost is a little more on the outset, but ALL problems i have seen installing a mini-split comes from the copper. i was able to purchase a 35ft. pre insulated line set that was more than enough lenth for my run... i just left the extra slack in the attic. setup was a snap, no flaring, welding or leaks to deal with!

evlme- ur situation is a little different..evac the lines is very easy & you prob woulndt have to be there for them to do it..it'll take them about 5 min, plus time waiting to see if the vac. holds to do.

for a tech replacing the refrig. will be easy too, but trying to keep out the tech who wants to wans to come in in to check your work that situation will be harder to explain.

for both of you i would just say my crazy/pregnant/sick girfriend is asleep on the couch & you dont want to wake her or she will rip your balls off...so you will "sneak in" to see if everything is working right on the inside. i use that 1 all the time for the cable techs...

 

[AVALANCHBUD]

This sux

This sux

Thank you all for your thoughts. Artofmakingfire: connection fittings are flare.I do not believe there to be a leak in the system now. Refrigerant was lost during installation, inside connection had a leak at the flare, which caused gas to escape for about a min. ,when I released refrigerant into lineset. I tightend fittings and no more gas escaped.This is why I think all that needs to be done is add more or replace refrigerant (r410a) because the unit cooled perfectly for awhile. everything on unit is working still except that it blows out not cold or cool air. So, if there are no leaks, is it possible for me to just have a tech come during my work hours and recharge from the outside only? thanks again

 

[Hydropimp]

Just get a vacumm pump it's like 200.00 plus gas is like 150.00 and guages are 50 if you up and leave you need these things anyway to take ypur stuff with you

 

[Mr.M]

I'm personally not a fan of pre-manufactures linesets or mechanical joints. I'm guessing you replaced the evap coil at the same time when you switched to the 410a condenser (I'm trying to eliminate possible evap leaks from the equation). Remember R410 requires different charging procedures because it is an azeotropic mix. You are running higher pressures and you are about 20 degrees colder than R22 equating to more danger to the tech. The oil used in the R410a is also very hygroscopic, meaning it will pick up moisture very easily. In short it is much easier to screw up the charge, introduce moisture, and get hurt using R410a. Because you do have mechanical joints, make sure they are tight, but not over tight. Anyway you could move your op temporarily? That way you could have the system done correctly by a pro. If it is done right the first time you should have little trouble with the refrigerant circuit. As long as there are no leaks you never need to replenish refrigerant. I would hate to see you damage your compressor with an incorrect charge or even worse get hurt. If you go it alone be careful.
Peace, M

 

[Mr.M]

Could you make it look as if you are moving and stack boxes, furniture, etc in front of the locked grow door / doors, blocking entry? At the same time have some one cleaning with strong cleaners, while you paint the walls. This may help cover scent while loud exhaust fans can't be run. Also, if the indoor section is in the attic, make sure that the tech doesn't see weird exhaust ducts coming up from your room. Then hope like hell he doesn't step through the sheetrock and land in your grow! I know it's sketchy, but your choices are limited. Also, make sure the breaker box is not in the grow. That could cause another problem. I hope you get it worked out.
Peace, M

 

[Hydropimp]

I think mine leaked out to can someone help me charge the system I can post pics and have the tools.

The samething happen to me opened the vavle and heard a leak tighten and work fine but now blows air but not cold and my small pipe is freezing is that normal? I open the outside unit and saw frost on the pipe.