I am trying to set up a recirculating DWC grow in my attic as this will provide the most stealth possible. I would like to run a water line up there so I wont have to carry buckets of water by hand. What is the quickest and easiest way to run a water line up there? I would like to have it connected directly to a RO filter.
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How to run plumbing into attic
- Thread starter smooth24
- Start date
cyberthreat
Member
Its mad easy all you need to know is you need to is where in your home your water line is and open the walls with a 3 to 5 inch round hole were you have to tie in to the cold water then just cut 1/2 out with hacksaw with the water shut off there should be a main valve to turn off the water or depending were your going to tie in might have a seprate valve in your house after making the cut ruff both ends of the pipe then do the same to the copper tee coat the ends in flux the place you can get it at hd with the sodier (sp) and the sand paper they sell for ruffing up the pipe and then place a thick wet rag or leather they sell at hd this is so you don't burn the wall or start a fire
fire this is real hard to do so don't worry about or keep a bucket of water so after you put the flux on then You take a propane only torch and heat the were the end of the fitting fitting until it glows this only take a few seconds because copper is very thin and only do one side at a time because it will cool and remove the torch a 1 inch from the end of the fitting then just lightly toch the end of sodier in between the grove were the fitting meet's the pipe that's easy it's not like welding as soon as it start melting you wanna move the sodier so you seal the pipeand I use a long lenth of sodier so if it drips it does not burn you and you can try to go around the whole pipe by if you have stop ahalf and move the torch a little closer never touch with the torch the pipe or you will melt out the sodier you put on making sure you over lap the sodier so you put so you have ok now the tee in you can start to do a puzzle like I call it your going to wanna break a hole dry wall going up from tthe tee a 1/2 inch wide all the way to the top if you need to run it up a floor and when you get to the top of 2by4 that hold the studs in place and then go to the upper floor break a hole big to get a half inch long shafted spade bit at the bottom stud on the top floor and before you try to drill the hole check and the bottom floor for any nails then drill the hole on the top floor it's easier the ruff both ends the pipe like before and if you didn't do the same to the top end of the tee put the flux on the pipe and the tee then soldier it like I explaiin the copper pipe in ten foot length so your probaly going put It in the hole you drilled so it will going in the tee then so now that's done move up to to the top floor can the you use a pipe cutter to cut the pipe down to add the next fitting so to don't have to make another hole and if you need to go up again the repeat the process just as I told but instead conecting to a tee your going to use a strait fitting so you can add another pipe before you fit them ruff then put the flux on and sodier it if your not going up to the next floor or not you would finish the same way ruff 90 degree fitting And ruff it up flux it and soldier in a garden house spiget or if it's threaded you can have home depot put threads on a 2inch piece of pipe or longer depend's on how much you want it to stick out and the pipe that comes threw the hole the cut setts the height of the spiget
Then when you cut the big holes make sure you cut a 5 by 5 square it makes it easier to but before you fix it check for any leaks on the fitting you install on how ever many floors you do that's you can get a piece of dry wall and cut to 5 by 5 square and replace you can throw dry wall a in it the tape it up and and cover the the tape and any cracks with dry wall puddy and repeat then for the half inch line you cut can be tape up or the sell this fiberglass tape its called it like a piece of cheese cloth its hard and it sticks to the wall and hd it carries right were the puddy is so then you cover the half inch holes with that puddy over it sand it and paint it and your done this will only work if your house has copper piping me and my moms ex did a whole salon in 3 days to finsh re plumbing the whole salon in 3 days and I was 12 doing the sodier it so easy
tv
fire this is real hard to do so don't worry about or keep a bucket of water so after you put the flux on then You take a propane only torch and heat the were the end of the fitting fitting until it glows this only take a few seconds because copper is very thin and only do one side at a time because it will cool and remove the torch a 1 inch from the end of the fitting then just lightly toch the end of sodier in between the grove were the fitting meet's the pipe that's easy it's not like welding as soon as it start melting you wanna move the sodier so you seal the pipeand I use a long lenth of sodier so if it drips it does not burn you and you can try to go around the whole pipe by if you have stop ahalf and move the torch a little closer never touch with the torch the pipe or you will melt out the sodier you put on making sure you over lap the sodier so you put so you have ok now the tee in you can start to do a puzzle like I call it your going to wanna break a hole dry wall going up from tthe tee a 1/2 inch wide all the way to the top if you need to run it up a floor and when you get to the top of 2by4 that hold the studs in place and then go to the upper floor break a hole big to get a half inch long shafted spade bit at the bottom stud on the top floor and before you try to drill the hole check and the bottom floor for any nails then drill the hole on the top floor it's easier the ruff both ends the pipe like before and if you didn't do the same to the top end of the tee put the flux on the pipe and the tee then soldier it like I explaiin the copper pipe in ten foot length so your probaly going put It in the hole you drilled so it will going in the tee then so now that's done move up to to the top floor can the you use a pipe cutter to cut the pipe down to add the next fitting so to don't have to make another hole and if you need to go up again the repeat the process just as I told but instead conecting to a tee your going to use a strait fitting so you can add another pipe before you fit them ruff then put the flux on and sodier it if your not going up to the next floor or not you would finish the same way ruff 90 degree fitting And ruff it up flux it and soldier in a garden house spiget or if it's threaded you can have home depot put threads on a 2inch piece of pipe or longer depend's on how much you want it to stick out and the pipe that comes threw the hole the cut setts the height of the spiget
Then when you cut the big holes make sure you cut a 5 by 5 square it makes it easier to but before you fix it check for any leaks on the fitting you install on how ever many floors you do that's you can get a piece of dry wall and cut to 5 by 5 square and replace you can throw dry wall a in it the tape it up and and cover the the tape and any cracks with dry wall puddy and repeat then for the half inch line you cut can be tape up or the sell this fiberglass tape its called it like a piece of cheese cloth its hard and it sticks to the wall and hd it carries right were the puddy is so then you cover the half inch holes with that puddy over it sand it and paint it and your done this will only work if your house has copper piping me and my moms ex did a whole salon in 3 days to finsh re plumbing the whole salon in 3 days and I was 12 doing the sodier it so easy
tv
I was thinking bout this
I was thinking bout this
After much thought I think it would be best to keep the reverse osmosis filter down stairs. Plus I really don't feel like running plumbing. I was thinking about getting a 100-200 gpd RO filter with booster pump and attaching it to a 50+ gallon drum w/ shutoff valve and then pump it up stairs to the attic. My question is what kind of pump/psi would I be looking at to get it roughly 30-50ft down a hose and up a story to my attic.
I was thinking bout this
After much thought I think it would be best to keep the reverse osmosis filter down stairs. Plus I really don't feel like running plumbing. I was thinking about getting a 100-200 gpd RO filter with booster pump and attaching it to a 50+ gallon drum w/ shutoff valve and then pump it up stairs to the attic. My question is what kind of pump/psi would I be looking at to get it roughly 30-50ft down a hose and up a story to my attic.
G
Guest
LOL - The things one does to answer a question here.
I happened to be doing some ladder work on my house today so I took the 30' hose from my 50 gal drum up the ladder to second story height and it worked fine. In my 50 gal. drum I've got a Walmart pond pump. I don't know the gpm but they have several different sizes and I've got the pump that cost about $40.
PC
cyberthreat
Member
Its realy easy maybe a two hour job not counting paint time and I would save a piece of dry wall for a paint match but I can understand not wanting all that work and u might rent also I think you would be go by head pressure for the pump
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Im actually a welder. Ive done the brazing your talking about but to be honest I wasn't that good for some reason. Plus with all the preparation and measuring it would take I could easily see it ending up being a full days work. Since I am running electricity also I am looking to just keep it as simple as possible. I definetly appreciate everyone's help though. Im sure this won't be my last post while constructing the room.
The thing is you're soldering not brazing. If you ever try it again the basic rules are: Cut your copper with a pipe cutter, not a hack saw, make sure your connection joints are very clean; use flux; then, when soldering, you heat the entire joint a little bit at first but then you direct your flame uphill from the solder joint, not directly on the joint - this will suck the solder into the joint. For example, if soldering an elbow you heat the curve, not the joint. Heating the joint directly pushes the solder out instead of sucking it in. As you heat the pipe, touch the edge of the connection with the solder, when the solder starts to melt, quickly touch it around the edge of the entire joint then leave it alone, it's done. The most common noob mistakes are not getting the joint clean enough , not heating evenly or overheating.
PC
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cyberthreat
Member
He's right
Carl Spackler
Member
It is very easy to get water for a RO setup wherever you need it. My water lines run in the attic but this would work no matter where your lines are. Get a saddle tap, 1/4 line and some quick connect fittings and you are ready to go. It took me 20 minutes to get H20 into my room. Also keep in mind you will need a drain for your RO as it produces 4-6 gallons of waste for every gallon on RO water. Here is an example of a tap http://www.bicwarehouse.com/self-piercing-tap-valve-419844.html
GeneticHeirloom
Member
Just don't put plumbing on the exterior walls or behind the vapor barrier, last thing you'd want is a major leak and a plumber busting your walls in to find the leak and having to go into the attic to maybe find your plants.
Good idea to have a water source so you dont have to lug it everyday or week though, would like to see pics of the way you made it work.
edit: if you live in cold climate.
Good idea to have a water source so you dont have to lug it everyday or week though, would like to see pics of the way you made it work.
edit: if you live in cold climate.
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