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How to keep spider mites under control, outdoor and indoor infestation!

Red October

Red October

Active member
I've been struggling to keep spider mites at bay in my garden and indoor tent. Im starting to think they are very common in my direct area as I've noticed them on our aloe plants outdoors and I'm starting to realise they are going to be common place in my garden as no matter what I use within a day or two they already start making a reappearance.vive tried neem, a few different pyrol sprays, some wierd eco fungus stuff? Supposed to make the insects get infected and die, some organic mix stuff with garlic extract that smells so bad and spinosad but these fukrs keep coming back.

What else can I use that has a longer half life after being applied that will deter them from a re appearance after only a day or so? I don't mind washing my plants afterwards as I realize I will have to do this because I live in a sandy area but these guys are relentless and literally everywhere
 
PizzaMan5000

PizzaMan5000

Member
I am pretty liberal with the sevin dust.

Cleared my mites (broad) in a few days.

Has a half-life of up to 70 days etc when dark and dry, like 2 days once wet.

I don't believe in organics, especially when I'm using it as a pesticide lol

Edit: I have hurt/burned my plants with sprays. Last insecticidal soap I had was incredibly alkaline too.
 
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maryjaneismyfre

maryjaneismyfre

Well-known member
Veteran
you have to break the cycle, then dont let them get their foot in the door... Have to hit them weekly for four weeks at least, complete coverage to break a cycle..Eggs will hatch when ever temps get hot for a month after killing every adult..Spinosad not effective against mites, you need a "mectin" but those can only use twice in a season then must use others, do not spray flowering plants with anything, predator mites there your only control. Alternate the mectin (avermectin/abamectin etc.) with garlic and pyrethrum for a month weekly, use the fungal control too it will also be effective. After a month you must smash weekly the garlic spinosad pyrethrum combo for maybe 2 to 3 weeks for severe infestation, using the bio fungal control inbetween..Then once you got them out, clear dont let them come back..fortnightly sprays of garlic, pyrethrum and spinosad keep most away and dont let cycles start in the first place..once a cycle of reproduction of any pest has started its uphill from there. This all on vegging plants only as said, use predator mites on flowers only option aside from the risky baking the mites with a few hours of HOT temps, but that risky..spray at lights out and turn fans off, or in dark outside..


IPM, clear out the whole area around where you grow of weeds and spray any shit dead there too..spray at night so birds and bees unaffected and dont spray nasty persistant stuff..There are effective low impact sprays available these days..dont bring in un-quarantined plants..once out dont let them come back or as they do, arrive on the wind, if they do make sure they get nuked every fortnight and then they cant get an egg lay on the go and start trouble.
 
troutman

troutman

Seed Whore
Just looked for some online and I like Neoseiulus cucumeris. :)

It can even live on pollen in absence of prey insects.
Neoseiulus cucumeris is an aggressive predator of several soft-bodied pests, generally seen on the lower leaf surface or inside flowers.
They are known to feed on the immature stages of a variety of pests including important thrips species; western flower thrips, onion
thrips, melon thrips, common blossom thrips, and chilli thrips; Asian citrus psyllid; whitefly, and plant damaging mites; broad mite,
cyclamen mite, spider mite, and tomato russet mite.
Click to expand...
https://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/BENEFICIAL/Neoseiulus_cucumeris.htm
 
chusss

chusss

Active member
My homemade mix is

500cc water
1 cigarette
1 teaspoon potassium soap
1 teaspoon of powdered garlic

You leave this resting for 2 days and spray it, the last time i also added tabasco, lemon juice and alcohol, but i guess that becasue of some of that or the amounts of it was too much cause i burned some leaves with little yellow spots

This usually works for me for any kind of insect
 
NEW ENGLAND

NEW ENGLAND

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
chusss said:
My homemade mix is

500cc water
1 cigarette
1 teaspoon potassium soap
1 teaspoon of powdered garlic

You leave this resting for 2 days and spray it, the last time i also added tabasco, lemon juice and alcohol, but i guess that becasue of some of that or the amounts of it was too much cause i burned some leaves with little yellow spots

This usually works for me for any kind of insect
Click to expand...

I think a bartender made that for me once.
 
Red October

Red October

Active member
Thank you everyone, I need to go do some reading up on this. I have a very active garden insect wise and need to find a way for us both to live in harmony, lol. I do like the idea of using predator mites to keep the main outdoor garden area under control because I don't really want to destroy the current balance the bugs have found:biggrin: and then can take harsher measures for the ones that find their way to my plants. Need to see what's available in my country.
 
Red October

Red October

Active member
Ok so we do have companies that do supply both Neoseiulus cucumeris and Californicus, I'm wondering if I can actually setup some type of breeding box for them, I know in our worm bins we get infestations of those golden fruit eating mites.
 
chilliwilli

chilliwilli

Waterboy
Veteran
I prefere chrysoperla indoors. The predatory mites have specific temp and rh% range for optimum, most higher rh% than i like indoors and they also come with some of the fuckers u try to kill as a foodsource. So when its not optimum for the predators the food could potential reinfect your croop. And the predatore mites are more prophylactic than a treatmend.
The chrysoperla on the other hand are unspecific predators that would also eat thrypse and other stuff, doesn't require specific temp and rh% and also works as a treatment with an infestation.
I get them at 20 euro for 350-500 chrysoperla and use them at beginn of veg and 4-5 weeks later(most start of flower). The selling company recommends up to 30 chrysoperla/m2 for plants up to 150cm(5ft) for middle or heavy infestation. So a little overkill for my 1,5m2 but i like it that way
 
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Sunshineinabag

Sunshineinabag

Active member
chilliwilli said:
I prefere chrysoperla indoors. The predatory mites have specific temp and rh% range for optimum, most higher rh% than i like indoors and they also come with some of the fuckers u try to kill as a foodsource. So when its not optimum for the predators the food could potential reinfect your croop. And the predatore mites are more prophylactic than a treatmend.
The crysoperla on the other hand are unspecific predators that would also eat thrypse and other stuff, doesn't require specific temp and rh% and also works as a treatment with an infestation.
I get them at 20 euro for 350-500 crysoperla and use them at beginn of veg and 4-5 weeks later(most start of flower). The selling company recommends up to 30 crysoperla/m2 for plants up to 150cm(5ft) for middle or heavy infestation. So a little overkill for 1,5m2 but i like it that way
Click to expand...
Link da link to meh please
 
1

120Octane

Member
Give this a read if you wish






https://marronebio.com/biological-control-in-organic-ag/



Grandevo should be able to handle the spidy's


Mix 2 tsp a gallon....Mist all of the plants from the bottom side of the leaves....drop 1 cup of mix on a plant for pot soak right after a feeding....3 days repeat for 9 days total......Spray a mistthe walls the floors go to town except around hoods and ballast...may go sizzle....


It is biological warfare...No need for benificial bugs to pick from sticky buds....


Mist everything....spray everything for soil near your house to make a band of death.....spray a little heavier where the house meets the earth and repeat every 2 weeks 3 or 4 times.....spray your yard if wish...


Biologicals can do alot of good if have the right one...some build soil, some are N or P fixers, some are killers.....Biggest issue is make sure the bag is dated...more than a year old do not open and call who sold it about a return....as in life everything must die eventually....no date on the bag, return it....
 
bigpeter

bigpeter

Active member
B.A.C. Plant Vitality Plus is the first spider mites spray that makes Spider Mites, Aphids and Thrips disappear like snow in the sun. It will also control the eggs and larvae if sprayed on top of your substrate.


B.A.C. Plant Vitality Plus - Spider Mite - Thrip - Insect Spray


:rtfo:



It works 100%, Over the years I've used it twice, I'll eat my hat if it doesn't work for you.
 
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