How to cool 2x1000 for next cycle?

[BreezeEazy]

Hey everyone, I'm currently stuck in a bit of a pickle and don't know what to do. I need cooling ideas!

I have a 10x5x8' room with 2x600s in it currently. After this cycle I want to upgrade to 2 Gavita Pro 1000 DEs because they seem like the best 1000 for my situation. Obviously that is going to create heat issues. My room currently has 1200 watts and a 6" vortex and runs around 80-82 degrees with the lights on. My lights run at night because its cooler and cheaper than during the day time. I grow in my basement, its an open basement and this room takes up about a tenth of the space if that. How can I keep my temps in check until I'm in a position to get a mini-split (currently renting a town home)?

My current idea is get a 8" vortex or even 2 of them, hook them up to a 3 way duct and vent into my upper house, while sucking in fresh cool air from the basement. This way I can heat my upper house and or that hot air will trip the a/c in summer so my a/c unit can assist with cooling.

Plan b is hook up some ducting to my vent that will allow cold a/c air to pump into the room, and exhaust, again, to the upper part of my house.

I also have a water chiller (says its 1/10HP on the back but I thought it was a 1/4HP) that I could use with two iceboxes but I've read you need 1/4HP per 1000.

I really would appreciate some help, I'm trying to make that next leap until I can get a house where I can make long term modifications.

 

[BreezeEazy]

Forgot to mention, according to a gavita rep, whazzup, a 500 cfm fan can cool 1 pro 1000 light in a 4x4 / 5x5 tent. Should I splits my room into 2 small 'tents' or will light rails help disperse heat?

 

[Sativa Dragon]

Uh Oh another Gavita cooling question...

the Rep sounds a bit on the optimistic side.

Prolly need to hear from some one with some experience.

Peace

 

[BreezeEazy]

Uh Oh another Gavita cooling question...

the Rep sounds a bit on the optimistic side.

Prolly need to hear from some one with some experience.

Peace

I wouldn't say it is specifically a Gavita cooling question lol. If if I don't get the gavita I would still like to get a 1000. Plan B is a solis-tek 1000. Which still requires me to address heat issues.

 

[DrySiftWizard]

Hey everyone, I'm currently stuck in a bit of a pickle and don't know what to do. I need cooling ideas!

I have a 10x5x8' room with 2x600s in it currently. After this cycle I want to upgrade to 2 Gavita Pro 1000 DEs because they seem like the best 1000 for my situation. Obviously that is going to create heat issues. My room currently has 1200 watts and a 6" vortex and runs around 80-82 degrees with the lights on. My lights run at night because its cooler and cheaper than during the day time. I grow in my basement, its an open basement and this room takes up about a tenth of the space if that. How can I keep my temps in check until I'm in a position to get a mini-split (currently renting a town home)?

My current idea is get a 8" vortex or even 2 of them, hook them up to a 3 way duct and vent into my upper house, while sucking in fresh cool air from the basement. This way I can heat my upper house and or that hot air will trip the a/c in summer so my a/c unit can assist with cooling.

Plan b is hook up some ducting to my vent that will allow cold a/c air to pump into the room, and exhaust, again, to the upper part of my house.

I also have a water chiller (says its 1/10HP on the back but I thought it was a 1/4HP) that I could use with two iceboxes but I've read you need 1/4HP per 1000.

I really would appreciate some help, I'm trying to make that next leap until I can get a house where I can make long term modifications.

That.

I've done gavitas before and yeah they get pretty warm. We did standard cool tubes and used 8" fans to vent them. Being it's only 2 lights i'd think you'll be ok even if you do the split idea.

Dedicated loops for cooling lights isn't really needed until you start to get into 6kw+ or start burning juice.

In this case it's not so bad to split it like that.. lots of people think you need to blow those fans directly into the tubes to keep them cool.. and ultimately all that ends up doing is making the actual bulb vibrate so bad that they can burst or go bad.. keeping the airflow even and not 'too much' will save you lots of trouble.

Have done venting all sorts of ways and you should be just fine if you keep it to two lights.

 

[BreezeEazy]

That.

I've done gavitas before and yeah they get pretty warm. We did standard cool tubes and used 8" fans to vent them. Being it's only 2 lights i'd think you'll be ok even if you do the split idea.

Dedicated loops for cooling lights isn't really needed until you start to get into 6kw+ or start burning juice.

In this case it's not so bad to split it like that.. lots of people think you need to blow those fans directly into the tubes to keep them cool.. and ultimately all that ends up doing is making the actual bulb vibrate so bad that they can burst or go bad.. keeping the airflow even and not 'too much' will save you lots of trouble.

Have done venting all sorts of ways and you should be just fine if you keep it to two lights.

That is relief lol. I just went down to the basement to tinker around. The duct that runs right by my room has a vent on it so I can pop that off and shove my exhaust fan ducting in there and vent it that way or I can pull the ducting off that supplies one of my floor vents and have that pump into my room and exhaust out the floor vent. The ducting that supplies the floor vent is 6" so I could do a 8' to a 6" to connect to that. I think that and a thermostat hooked up to the fans should have me sitting alright with the thermostat helping to regulate the temperature.

 

[DrySiftWizard]

Electronic thermostats can be tricky if they are not accurate enough. I've seen rooms be 'set' to certain temps but because the thing stunk, it wouldn't register close enough (some are like.. +/- 6-8*..that much) and it would let the room get either way too hot or way too cold.

If you do that, make sure you also set up a cheap sensor if the one you buy won't recall high/low for the night.. so you can be assured that's not happening.

Some people just leave it and expect things to 'go right'.. rarely is that the case for one reason or another, lol.

Sounds like you should be good to go, though. Necking down 2" shouldn't make a difference.. I do it here and there all the time.

So long as you don't lose too much pressure because of the length of hose you're running.. the lights should cool just fine. Low torque fans (not sure what you're using atm) sometimes won't push air past a certain point.. even the super quiet 14" cans I was using were low torque and they had problems with 20-25' of insulation being ducted out.

Don't have those issues with the FKDs.. but they are twice as much, lol.

Also, skip the lightrail/movers. Not worth it. You'll be fine.

 

[Sativa Dragon]

Personally I would go with the Solis Tek and a nice air cooled hood. The solis tek will also work in conjunction with the other, so when it's lights on time they will ignite sequentially. Not required till you get a pile of lights though.

Gavitas are nice but they are designed for large spaces with a pile of air movement, like a "Green House".

So buyer beware you can for all intents and purposes save some cash and still get great results with your Solis-tek. And then there is one less heat problem giving you more latitude with your environmental control.

Peace

 

[BreezeEazy]

I had a break through last night. I'm just going to build a room It is going to include the ducting that is down there so I'll just use my a/c to keep the temp in control lol. Bigger area, solves the temp issue, I easily vent out and hopefully it wont cost that much. Then next to that I want to build a "storage" closet that will be the veg room. I'll still get some 8" fans to push the exhaust air and mount some oscillating fans. My roomie and his dad does construction so I'll have their help plus me, we'll upgrade the electrical too and make everything real nice. The landlord will love the free work. The room will be roughly 13'x12' with the veg room being something like 10'x5'. I told him if we could make it happen for like $1k we'll be set. Not sure how much it costs to build a room like that but we'll see. Since it'll never be a room one can live in, it doesn't have to be up to code like the other room that is down there when we moved in.

I agree with you on the solice-tek Dragon but after I get a solis-tek, bulb, and a cooled hood the price comes out to basically the same. I originally wanted the matrix, their bulb and to run umbrella hoods but after doing my research for hours the Gavita is the better buy IMO. I'd consider an ePaps if I could find how much a replacement reflector is.

 

[JG's Ghost]

Breeze:

The best thing I've ever seen/used to cool a room is the Icebox. They are basically a small radiator attached to the end of your air cooled light fixture at the exhaust end, and you pump cold water through them. To do it right you need a dedicated chiller, and res, but when done right you can just recirculate the air in the room, and use a smaller carbon filter/fan to bring in fresh air, and exhaust the smell.

I see you mention them in your first post. That 1/10 hp will work, but you will need to keep it running almost 24/7 to get the water cold enough to handle a 12/12 cycle for 2 lights. I use a full 1 hp for just 2 lights, and it keeps the water at 40 degrees.

http://www.hydroinnovations.com/product-details.php?title=ICE_BOX_Water-Cooled_Heat_Exchanger&pro=10

 

[Snow Crash]

Breeze:

The best thing I've ever seen/used to cool a room is the Icebox. They are basically a small radiator attached to the end of your air cooled light fixture at the exhaust end, and you pump cold water through them. To do it right you need a dedicated chiller, and res, but when done right you can just recirculate the air in the room, and use a smaller carbon filter/fan to bring in fresh air, and exhaust the smell.

I see you mention them in your first post. That 1/10 hp will work, but you will need to keep it running almost 24/7 to get the water cold enough to handle a 12/12 cycle for 2 lights. I use a full 1 hp for just 2 lights, and it keeps the water at 40 degrees.

http://www.hydroinnovations.com/product-details.php?title=ICE_BOX_Water-Cooled_Heat_Exchanger&pro=10

I find that pretty funny, because they are among the most inefficient forms of cooling. The 6" ice boxes have been discontinued, they straight didn't work. The 8" are around, but you need a lot of water to effectively cool more than just 1000w. It's great if you have a pool or well, but for the average guy it's just more plumbing and hassle than it is worth.

I can't believe no one has spoken about CFM...

If your space is 400 cubic feet then exhausting the room at a rate of once per minute should suffice to keep the temperature deviance from the intake temperature to the grow room temperature within 5-6 degrees. So if it is 66-74 outside then you shouldn't have any problem sticking under 80.

What I would do is add a single 8" Vortex fan as an exhaust, that gets you almost 2x per minute at ~750cfm. Although, include a filter and maybe a bend or two in the ducting and you're probably cutting that down to ~600cfm. To maintain negative pressure, but still reduce the strain on the fan and improve air flow, I would use the 6" fan you have now to assist the intake. Definitely on a speed controller.

Also, take a look at the ePapillon, their reflector design handles the heat much better than the Gavita design.

 

[Shcrews]

I grow in several 2kw tents (see my sig), and i use one 10" fan to cool each 2kw. An 8" fan will keep it cool too. or You will need two 6" fans to cool 2kw