How much Epson Salt?

[talktosamson]

hows it going, I have a boggelgum that has become a magnesium hungrey little slut since I flipped her to 12/12, I got some epsom salt, as I know its the solution to this particular problem, but I dont know how much to use, the kind I got says 495 mg per teaspoon? My deficency has worked its way about half way up the plant, so i think it needs a healthy dose, any how, suggestions?

 

[Rellikbuzz]

You'll want to add the epsom salts with EVERY watering now until the end of flowering. Initially, I would put 1 teaspoon per gallon for the first few waterings and then back off to 1/4-1/2 teaspoon per gallon the rest of the way. Also, and this is very important, you'll want to dissolve the epsom salts in a cup of very hot water before adding it to your nute solution. Otherwise, the salts won't dissolve and the plants won't be able to take them up. Good luck!

 

[3legdog]

Excellent post Rellikebuzz, very good info

 

[Guest]

Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element


Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.


Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.


Excessive levels of magnesium in your plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked out by having too much Calcium, Chlorine or ammonium in your soil/water.
One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by a ph lockout. By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you are doing good, but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t take in a nutrient because of the ph being off for that element, the plant will not absorb it but it will be in the soil… therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part way in on the inner leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency are: space between the veins (Interveinal) of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf.




Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles

Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus


Soil

Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Solution to fixing a Magnesium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Magnesium in them will fix a Magnesium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
Other nutrients that have magnesium in them are: Epsom salts, which is fast absorption. Dolomite lime and or garden lime (same thing just called different) which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Magnesia which is medium absorption. Worm Castings, which is slow absorption. Crabshell which is slow absorption. Earth Juice Mircoblast, which is fast acting. (a must buy!! Has lots of 2ndary nutrients).
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.


Here is a few pics of what a magnesium deficiency looks like in different stages. First one was on my plant at an early stage of veg. growth. This was the start of a very early magnesium deficiency. and the last one is from what magnesium lockout looks like when it is caused by a ph problem.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688 (pst.#2)

 

[00420]

hey guys i did this last week so watch it......

to much mg................ o no.......

i use AN cal mag...... i have used it so much that i now just poor a lil in the rez as the weeks go by... well 3 nights ago i poored n sliped dumped a lil to much....
i said fuck it more mg dont hurt.
boy was i wrong.... it make a nute lock out just like a mg dif.... so watch your self.... it did not kill my clones but it sure stunted them.....

pull the 12 & putting them back in the cloner for a few day n added new one's....

 

[dociron]

Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element


Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production and its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium which must be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive, but yet not to much to where it will cause the plant to show a toxicity.


Magnesium is one of the easiest deficiencies to tell… the green veins along with the yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins, sometimes leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. The growing tips can turn lime green when the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older, but It can also happen on older leaves as well. The deficiency will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer left and right sides of the leaves. The inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.


Excessive levels of magnesium in your plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked out by having too much Calcium, Chlorine or ammonium in your soil/water.
One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by a ph lockout. By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you are doing good, but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t take in a nutrient because of the ph being off for that element, the plant will not absorb it but it will be in the soil… therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part way in on the inner leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency are: space between the veins (Interveinal) of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf.




Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles

Light Acid Soils, soils with excessive potassium, calcium and or phosphorus


Soil

Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 . (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.



Solution to fixing a Magnesium deficiency
Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Magnesium in them will fix a Magnesium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
Other nutrients that have magnesium in them are: Epsom salts, which is fast absorption. Dolomite lime and or garden lime (same thing just called different) which is slow absorption. Sulfate of Potash, Magnesia which is medium absorption. Worm Castings, which is slow absorption. Crabshell which is slow absorption. Earth Juice Mircoblast, which is fast acting. (a must buy!! Has lots of 2ndary nutrients).
Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.


Here is a few pics of what a magnesium deficiency looks like in different stages. First one was on my plant at an early stage of veg. growth. This was the start of a very early magnesium deficiency. and the last one is from what magnesium lockout looks like when it is caused by a ph problem.
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688 (pst.#2)

I thought this sounded like my friend Stitch,
and yep,, it sure is,, pay attention,, Stitch knows what's what.
BOG brought Stitch here for that very reason.

Take care........................ "iron"

 

[Verite]

Epsom with every watering in flower? Sounds a little overkill. I hardly use any of the stuff and do just fine.

 

[00420]

Epsom with every watering in flower? Sounds a little overkill. I hardly use any of the stuff and do just fine.

it would depind on a lot of thing's

sume plants cant get enuff & some can......

water makes a big deal! my tap water need's a lil more mg then any of my other grow's in a town north of me.....
if your using r/o i dont see where u would use that much but sum for sure .
i would think the same for soil as to dro but thats a thought im not a soil grower....

i know grape ape lov's cal/mg

 

[Guest]

DOH! ya always measure before you dump shit in your rez lol. I dont know shit about hydroponics other than that!

 

[00420]

DOH! ya always measure before you dump shit in your rez lol. I dont know shit about hydroponics other than that!

thats the only thing that i do that with.....neva again..... i member i was in a hurry as well but o well at lest it was baby clones and i have more plus thell live...

everything else is down to a tee bro with AN theres no give when u use the whole line....

 

[DankBank]

hows it going, I have a boggelgum that has become a magnesium hungrey little slut since I flipped her to 12/12, I got some epsom salt, as I know its the solution to this particular problem, but I dont know how much to use, the kind I got says 495 mg per teaspoon? My deficency has worked its way about half way up the plant, so i think it needs a healthy dose, any how, suggestions?

Lots of times ph issues disguise themselves as mag problems. If you're in soil, make sure you're as close to 6.0 as possible. Also check your runoff to see where you're actually at. I struggled with a supposed mag problem for a long time and epsom didn't change a damned thing because improper ph was locking mag out. Getting control of ph made all the difference in the world. Exact same thing happened with a friend of mine as well.
If your ph is fine, as stated already, 1 tsp per gallon (2 tops) is the general rule with Epsom but personally I wouldn't do it every time. In fact, I wouldn't do it at all. I used to... but not anymore. Proper ph along with quality ferts should be all you need. Only my experience, though. Each persons situation can differ... but here's what my experience did for me....



Good luck,
db

 

[DankBank]

Epsom with every watering in flower? Sounds a little overkill. I hardly use any of the stuff and do just fine.

EXACTLY. I never used one grain of Epsom on the pic above.

 

[3legdog]

Once a plant has been diagnosed with a mg deficiency & is a mg hog like some of the varities i grow you should add epsome every time you water. Even in small ammts it will help since some fertilizers do not have enough or any in them to carry a fully mature weed. Some strains don't need any mg addition...the 1s that do should be given a steady suppliment with the program....my .02c

 

[Guest]

im kicking myself in the head for starting this grow with the Botanicare line while my supplier had no cal/mag supplement in stock when i bought those ferts. i have bewwy bewwy soft water too i'm a dummy.....General Hydroponics' Flora 3-Part line would have been the more logical choice, but again, im a dummy the micro part sounds godly...

Another note i didnt see listed here is that foliar feeding (anything) makes for QUICKER direct absorbtion then root-level feeding. If you want faster results, foliar feed

cj

 

[3legdog]

Right on CJ a folier is an excellent way for quick amendments


I sometimes use Botanicare also CJ & it is not all inclusive so i often have deficiences to correct. The cal/mag plus from Botanicare helps greatly & is a must w/crapy starting water...like you said

 

[Verite]

Excellent points and further affirms my continued belief that growers and grows are like snowflakes, no two are exactly the same.

What might be right for you, may not be right for some.

[ A man is born, he's a man of means.
Then along come two, they got nothing but their jeans.]

Now everyone together now ...

But they got, Diff'rent Strokes.
It takes, Diff'rent Strokes.
It takes, Diff'rent Strokes to move the world.

 

[Rellikbuzz]

I agree with what 3LegDog has said. While some strains may not need much mag, others will starve for it. All the strains I have grown loved a consistent, albeit in small amounts, feeding of epsom salts. From my understanding, AN's Cal-Mag is a much more concentrated dose of mag than you get with epsom salts which is why I recommended 1/4-1/2 tspn. per gallon ratio. The 1 tspn. dose is simply to give them a much needed fix. However, I was VERY remise in not stating that you should most definitely make sure that your PH is in an acceptable range. Can't remember who suggested that first but kudos to you, my brotha! Be sure to check the PH of your nutes first BEFORE feeding and then get a PH reading from the runoff that comes out of the bottom of your pots (this is assuming that your growing in soil, of course). If your PH is in the acceptable range (5.8-6.5), then I would add the epsom salts in the doses that I recommnended in my earlier post. On the other hand, if your PH is in fact out of whack, you should first correct your PH and wait 5-7 days to see if the plant's health improves. If this corrects the problem, then great! However, adding the epsom salts periodically in small doses shouldn't hurt anything at all.

Advanced Nutrients has been very outspoken for quite some time now that cannabis plants are, in general, Magnesium "hogs". While most conventional teachings have led growers to believe they should dose their plants with plenty of nitrogen, it's actually Magnesium that the species craves (especially when in flower). Most nutrient regimes lack adequate magnesium levels. Hence, the advent of Cal-Mag supplements and the like. I used Advanced Nutrients 2+ program exclusively but never tried the Cal-Mag. I just used epsom salts (which cost a fraction of the price) with great success. Never felt a need to change.

Well, you have gotten some very good advice from some very knowledgable growers here. I hope this has helped in some way. Best of luck to you!

 

[00420]

I agree with what 3LegDog has said. While some strains may not need much mag, others will starve for it. All the strains I have grown loved a consistent, albeit in small amounts, feeding of epsom salts. From my understanding, AN's Cal-Mag is a much more concentrated dose of mag than you get with epsom salts which is why I recommended 1/4-1/2 tspn. per gallon ratio. The 1 tspn. dose is simply to give them a much needed fix. However, I was VERY remise in not stating that you should most definitely make sure that your PH is in an acceptable range. Can't remember who suggested that first but kudos to you, my brotha! Be sure to check the PH of your nutes first BEFORE feeding and then get a PH reading from the runoff that comes out of the bottom of your pots (this is assuming that your growing in soil, of course). If your PH is in the acceptable range (5.8-6.5), then I would add the epsom salts in the doses that I recommnended in my earlier post. On the other hand, if your PH is in fact out of whack, you should first correct your PH and wait 5-7 days to see if the plant's health improves. If this corrects the problem, then great! However, adding the epsom salts periodically in small doses shouldn't hurt anything at all.

Advanced Nutrients has been very outspoken for quite some time now that cannabis plants are, in general, Magnesium "hogs". While most conventional teachings have led growers to believe they should dose their plants with plenty of nitrogen, it's actually Magnesium that the species craves (especially when in flower). Most nutrient regimes lack adequate magnesium levels. Hence, the advent of Cal-Mag supplements and the like. I used Advanced Nutrients 2+ program exclusively but never tried the Cal-Mag. I just used epsom salts (which cost a fraction of the price) with great success. Never felt a need to change.

Well, you have gotten some very good advice from some very knowledgable growers here. I hope this has helped in some way. Best of luck to you!

if your fine with out the AN cal-mg no worrys bro...

i uise it for my crops 2 reasons....
1 my tap water sux balls
2 grape ape is a mg whore.... she cant get enuff epsom salt is not enuff for her... but is for the other strains i grow.. so i keep both around....
( AN also has 2 cal mg's...... 1 for veg n 1 for bloom )

my purple kush has allready started shoing signs of wanting mg
& a nute boost....

 

[70s_PotHead]

I use Bionicare cal-mag plus 5ml per gallon at every feeding and the plants love it and stay completely happy. Since I started using it my plants have never had a mag issue so thats just less to worry about. I use to use epsons but never had good results like I do with cal-mag plus.

70s

 

[3legdog]

Too bad most of the dam US has crappy tap water....not evn worthy of a weed . I won't even give my animals this 350+ ppm garbage.


edit: i also use the Botanicare's cal/mag 70's & seem's to be ok in sm ammts. I have also had it lock out feedings & now try & only use it between feedings...w/plain water.