How loud is S&P 200x?

[Monku Bakatare]

I have a 4X5X8 foot closet with a 600W in a hood. I have been using a Stanley fan on low setting for the last 3 years, and it keeps me within tolerable temp range. I need to get a filter set up, and want to go with a S&P 200x and a Phresh filter (6X24) rated up to 550CFM. My question is how is the noise of the S&P compared to the Stanley. Has anyone had experience with both to compare? Also, my hood and ducting is 6" and the S&P200x is 8". I plan to put 8"-6" reducer on both ends of S&P to fit current set up. Any thoughts, suggestions or musing welcome.

 

[qbert]

I have a TD-200 (not a TD-200x, I think the 200x is discontinued now) sitting in my closet. I'll try to remember to fire that puppy up tonight or tomorrow and post back with my thoughts. I'm expecting it to be very quiet.

 

[Jnugg]

I always see people talking about using duct reducers....don't do this,this will cause unwanted back pressure on your fans motor causing a drop in airflow/cfm.If you use an 8 " fan but your air-cooled reflector has 6" flanges just use 8" ducting and tape it to the reflector.

Common sense people,common sense.

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

i own 3 S&P 150(6") and 1 4" there the longest lasting, quietest fans ever!! the 200 should be whisper quiet! S&P is ATLEAST 2-3x quieter then vortex/oricle/value

 

[qbert]

I always see people talking about using duct reducers....don't do this,this will cause unwanted back pressure on your fans motor causing a drop in airflow/cfm.If you use an 8 " fan but your air-cooled reflector has 6" flanges just use 8" ducting and tape it to the reflector.

Common sense people,common sense.

I would assume that the 2" diameter "wall" that would create as the duct meets the hood would create far more resistance and turbulence than the gradual tapered transition. Maybe I'm not understanding what you're suggesting, though.


Don't know, would just think that logically. At least its always been drilled into my head regarding forced induction intakes on gas engines that smooth transitions are way better for airflow than what you're suggesting. What do ya think?


Myself, I thought a TD-150 6" would do it for my main cab exhaust, but since my Can-Filter 33 could accommodate an 8" duct I upsized the whole deal with a TD-200 8" and matching duct.


I can also say that when I hand-spin these S&P fans they rotate by themselves for an unnaturally long time and make absolutely no noise or vibration. Feels like some high quality bearings on that thing.

 

[Monku Bakatare]

Jnugg-I always see people talking about using duct reducers....don't do this,this will cause unwanted back pressure on your fans motor causing a drop in airflow/cfm.If you use an 8 " fan but your air-cooled reflector has 6" flanges just use 8" ducting and tape it to the reflector.


I figured that would be the case, but everything I've got including the exit holes are 6", so it would be big hassle to change. The thing is, when I look at pictures of a lot of those S&P's (TD-150), it looks like they have the very type reducers on either end already. That is not the case with the TD-200, but why not just add my own?