How do I stop gravity flow from rez/pump?

[little-soldier]

Hello my fellow ICMAGERs,
my reservoir is higher than the pump so even when the pump turns off, I still get some nutrient flowing through the pump/lines. I need to cut the nutrient loss in my DTW system.What are my different options to get rid of this problem? Thanks

 

[starke]

Either plumb your pump higher than your rez or buy a submersible pump to go in the rez. If you go the submersible pump route be sure to plumb in a siphon break. Now that I've typed this...a siphon break might fix your current issue. Google the term for examples.

 

[trichrider]

pump above rez, like he says^^

 

[mowood3479]

Anti siphon valve perhaps..
I use a submersible pump in my dtw..
Needed a 1/4” t just above water line in Rez to break siphon after pump shuts off.
Might be what u need

 

[little-soldier]

I can't use a submersible pump because I need 50 psi of pressure through my line. That why I bought a jet pump. I also can't plumb the pump above the reservoir. If the intake pipe has the slightest air bubble, the pump will fail or I will have to prime it.
Any other ideas or are these my only options? I am using aeroponics

 

[little-soldier]

It says to install the syphon break above the water level. Do you guys think I can get away with installing it below the water level just not in the reservoir? (on my intake line)

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

(edit: No, my suggestion will not help unless the pump is above the res.)

 

[PurplePotion]

You could use a small 12/24v electronic solenoid type shut off valve. They are fairly inexpensive and would be an easy fix. Have it turn off and on with your pump and voila.

 

[little-soldier]

The solenoid valve could work but I guess it would need to turn on and off fast so the pressure does not build up in the pump and line. BUT if it fails to turn on, then I guess there goes my pump

 

[f-e]

The solenoid valve could work but I guess it would need to turn on and off fast so the pressure does not build up in the pump and line. BUT if it fails to turn on, then I guess there goes my pump

I don't follow?

You have a pipe from your tank to your pump. During the fertigation cycle you power the pump and a valve in that pipe.

3 bar is a lot?

What head of water is causing the water to keep siphoning? Just a meter or so? and what size delivery hose do you use? I do something a little different

 

[unnamedmike]

.

 

[PurplePotion]

The solenoid valve could work but I guess it would need to turn on and off fast so the pressure does not build up in the pump and line. BUT if it fails to turn on, then I guess there goes my pump

Typically the types of pumps you’re talking about have a built in pressure switch which will have some external wires going from it to the motor of the pump. If you put the solenoid directly on the inlet, you could splice into the wires coming from the pressure switch to power the solenoid (and the motor), so they are always on/off at the same time (be sure to match voltage of solenoid to voltage of pump/switch). That’s what I would do at least. Also, you should be using an accumulator of some sort with these types of pumps to prevent rapid cycling of the motor if you aren’t already.

Most of the other options mentioned involved introduction of air at some point in the cycle which as the OP stated, is no good for these pumps.

 

[little-soldier]

f-e

My reservoir is upstairs. Its a 50 gallon baril with a hole at the bottom. I hooked up a flexible pipe with a check valve going to the 1 1/4" inlet of my red lion 1/2 hp jet pump. Outlet is 1 1/4" PVC pipe I made into a manifold which has 2 garden hose (1/2 inch) hooked up to it. So pump feeds through the manifold to the garden hose, then filtered with T screen irrigation filter then going to the plants (misters). Plants are in the basement. What do you mean 3 bar is a lot?

 

[little-soldier]

PurplePotion, thx for the info for the solenoid. I have never used an accumulator tank and don't think I really want to. What do you mean rapid cycling? pump had been on 30s off 3m and so far 3 crops with no problem but now I am planning on doing a DTW so I need to make sure the misters dont drip when the pump turns off.

 

[PurplePotion]

PurplePotion, thx for the info for the solenoid. I have never used an accumulator tank and don't think I really want to. What do you mean rapid cycling? pump had been on 30s off 3m and so far 3 crops with no problem but now I am planning on doing a DTW so I need to make sure the misters dont drip when the pump turns off.

An accumulator is a tank with an air filled pressurized bladder inside (set 2-3psi below the cut-in pressure of the pump, which is typically 15psi below the cut-off/rated pressure). You plumb it in-line after the pump. You can find small ones for RVs and campers for $30-50, or 1-5gal for home RO units at the hardware store for around the same price. They make them as big or small as you could possibly want. They essentially store pressurized water. Common application is for homes with well water, RO systems, etc. In addition to decreasing the amount of cycles the pump has to turn on and off, it allows for greater demand in a situation where the pump alone would be unable to keep up.

 

[little-soldier]

Thanks for the heads up purplepotion but I am doing low pressure hydro and I am fine with the pump running often. Its doing an excellent job at providing 40psi. So I guess the solenoid would fix my problem then

 

[Fixer]

Is your pump in the reservoir? If so you can drill a small hole in the line above it that squirts back into the res. as a siphon break.

 

[Absolem]

This is what I use in my 60 gallon barrel for an anti siphon.
The black plastic part is the anti siphon. Water can go up and to the plants then when the pump kicks off air gets pulled in through the anti siphon and breaks the siphon. No water leaks from it when the plants are being watered. Home depot used to carry the anti siphon and the rest of the parts can be found at Menards.

 

[Esme]

Cheap way to-do this if the pump is in the tank add a 13MM slip 4mm,
It's cheap and will stop the tank from

Like this

 

[120Octane]

How about what is used in the real world...Itscalled a 1 way check valve...50 PSI you said? Even better...


Simple ball trapped in a cage....Pump pressure forces the ball into a spring...pump shuts off so does flow....


If you have a water fall piss pump max 5 psi its not going to work...You got to have PSI not piss dribble...


Call Fastenall they can fix you up, just tell them you need it for 50 PSI max,working pressure of what ever your line flows when yer pumping...40 psi be a shot in the dark but proboly close