How can i add a "High Temp SHUTOFF" feature to my 8k of lights?

[grant123]

Just as the subject says, im looking for a way to add a safety high temp shut off to my sub panel that is controlling my 8 1k ballasts.

I have one of Caps 120v high temp shut off switch thingys, but im running 220 to the lights, and this one switch of course is no where near acceptable.

Is it possible to make some sort of 'trigger cable' like the lighting controllers use? anyone able to help me with this?

 

[BlindDate]

Use relays.

 

[LolaGal]

buy a CAP HLC-3e High temp shutdown and on delay 105 bucks

 

[odin_]

buy a CAP HLC-3e High temp shutdown and on delay 105 bucks

"The HLC-3e is rated at 15 amps @ 120 volts."

is this compatible with multiple 240s?

i see one 120 plug in the front of this thing?

edit: i think he has one of these and it isnt really what he wants either
i think that he wants something that will kill all the lights if the heat in the source gets too high (at least that is what i am looking for - my temps in the room are fine, but 10k in ballasts is a bit of a worry sometimes)

 

[cashmunny]

Just as the subject says, im looking for a way to add a safety high temp shut off to my sub panel that is controlling my 8 1k ballasts.

I have one of Caps 120v high temp shut off switch thingys, but im running 220 to the lights, and this one switch of course is no where near acceptable.

Is it possible to make some sort of 'trigger cable' like the lighting controllers use? anyone able to help me with this?

If you break open the case of the Caps 120V controller it will have a relay. Find the relay trigger wire and tap into it to run an external relay hooked up to your subpanel.

Or you could just plug a small DC adapter into your Caps 120V controller and use that to trigger your relay.

You'll need a pretty stout relay or series of relays that won't weld together in the closed position with 33 amps coursing through it. Try Digikey.com if radioshack doesn't have what you need.

 

[Hundred Gram Oz]

I need to get one of these, thank for the info all

 

[grant123]

I need to get one of thet neese, thank for the info all

what he said. . .

Although ill take it one step further cause im somewhat slow at times....

What type of relay do i have? call it 50 amps that need to be shut off.. here is a link http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Selection thanks for the help!

 

[headiez247]

buy a CAP HLC-3e High temp shutdown and on delay 105 bucks

yup. I use one

 

[BlindDate]

You can buy a relay at Radio Shack for $15

 

[rainforestnomad]

You dont need a relay, just a small contact and a push button. There is a simple circuit you can wire into your lighting circuit to incorporate a high temp shut off, but the exact wiring method depends on how you are timing and controlling your lights. I have built high temp shut offs which use a dedicated contactor controlling the lights, and the coil of this contactor is controlled by a thermostat and a smaller contactor. I can draw you up a wiring diagram if you give me some details on how you time your lights and have it wired up.

 

[*mistress*]

run 6k...
run 8k from hours 5, 6, 7 & 8... then off.
keep 2 lights operating on dedicated timer, for peak of plant photosynthesis, or mid-day, then turn off. end.

enjoy your garden!

 

[rainforestnomad]

Mistress, I also need to know how you have wired your lights. Are they all fed from a dedicated panel and 220v wire? or are they on individual timers on different circuits throughout your house? Also, how does your timing cycle work out for yhou? I've only heard of people doing what you are doing. around here 9/10 growers are just going all lights on for 12 hours or 18 hours.

 

[*mistress*]

maybe didnt fully understand your 1st post...

are you seeking high temp shut off, measured from the temp of the room?

or the temp of the insulated electrical wiring?

& based on these, a switch/machine turns off lights???

the insulators of the wiring shouldnt fail due to the temps generated from/in a garden.
what ever total load is, just run 80% of that - & should be ok.

if total load to room is, say, 60 amps, total current used should not exceed

.8*60=48 amps, or i (current).

this should be very safe operating amperage. the insulators for that wiring is designed to be used @ total load & then some. they should not spontaneously erupt into flames, just because running ballst & lights...

same for total load, or power.

you are running @ least 8k of lights, or 8k (p). @ 220 volts, or (e).
this gives,

power/voltage=current
8000/220=36.66 amps

if is really 240 volts...
8000/240=33.33 total amps

add cooling & support systems...
12000/240=50 amps...

right around that 80% point, but still safely rated operation...

can cook & simultaneously bake in a 5000w+ range all day long & not be concerned w/ plug burning up.
dont have to install special device to shut off oven when baking @ 450*f...

if have wired a 60-100 amp sub-panel to garden, just run @ 80% of total load capacity & should be ok.

if turning off lights to lower temps in room, just wire 2-x lights to seperate timers & turn on/off during mid-day, or period when stomata open & plant is absorbing most light. they dont need much light @ dawn or dusk, same as nature...

enjoy your garden!