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Honey QWISO Forum (lets show them why qwiso is the best)
- Thread starter dingbat
- Start date
EzExtractions
New member
are we allowed to post links to other websites? the pump method involves a glass extractor tube (similar to a BHO extractor tube) and a low pressure hand pump to extract the oils rather than using mason jar/ strainer method. Less equipment to work with plus its a breeze to just be able to load it up with bud, put a filter on the end, fill it up with some iso, attach the pump, and start pumpin.
But ya if were allowed to post links to other websites i can show you where you can get the kits.
BTW Nice Qwiso Static Shock! stuff is dankalicious!
are we allowed to post links to other websites? the pump method involves a glass extractor tube (similar to a BHO extractor tube) and a low pressure hand pump to extract the oils rather than using mason jar/ strainer method. Less equipment to work with plus its a breeze to just be able to load it up with bud, put a filter on the end, fill it up with some iso, attach the pump, and start pumpin.
But ya if were allowed to post links to other websites i can show you where you can get the kits.
BTW Nice Qwiso Static Shock! stuff is dankalicious!
I will leave the answer to that question to the moderators, but what I do instead of just posting a link, is copy and paste articles from other forums, and give credit to that forum as its source.
That aside, you can certainly send me the link by PM and if it looks like a good procedure, we will check out the process and document it for publication here.
static shock
Member
are we allowed to post links to other websites? the pump method involves a glass extractor tube (similar to a BHO extractor tube) and a low pressure hand pump to extract the oils rather than using mason jar/ strainer method. Less equipment to work with plus its a breeze to just be able to load it up with bud, put a filter on the end, fill it up with some iso, attach the pump, and start pumpin.
But ya if were allowed to post links to other websites i can show you where you can get the kits.
BTW Nice Qwiso Static Shock! stuff is dankalicious!
Well put my friend well put.
That sums up my process.
Gonna be uploading some sour diesel shatter made in the same manner soon.
Came out so smelly
Qwiso for the win
KonradZuse
Active member
Someone was saying that ISO is poisonous and left inside our concentrate which will then destroy our liver over time.
Hello class, this week we are going to be covering IPA(isopropyl alcohol, isopropanol, 2-propanol, etc) vs Etoh(ethyl alcohol, pure alcohol, grain alcohol, everclear, etc), as this seems to be a popular topic lately, or rather many folks seem to be using IPA for their food grade extractions, so here we will illustrate the differences, and explain why you should use Etoh INSTEAD of IPA (iso) for all your food grade extractions.
To start us off, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol Now that you have read that, note that IPA comes mainly from the mixing of water and propene, that's right, a petroleum distillate!
Now he we will show a specification report for Sigma's 99.7%+ pure IPA (it's a PDF): http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/Graphic.../SPEC/W292907/W292907-BULK-K____ALDRICH__.pdf Now note the presence of things like arsenic, cadmium, mercury, and lead, keep in mind they are still present in this commercially refined "pure" product, so imagine what they are in the store bought brands (that purposefully keep it filthy anyways to prevent people drinking it[needs cite]).
Now here we have an MSDS report for 99% isopropanol http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9926005 And one for 70% http://www.transdesign.com/MSDS/La Palm/AlcoholseventyIPA.pdf Both clearly stating that IPA causes gastrointestinal problems, and over-exposure can cause damage to some internal organs, also "Persons with severe skin, liver or kidney problems should avoid use."
Now posting a spec report of ethanol is virtually useless, the pure grades contain usually nothing besides water and ethanol, maybe a point or two of methanol, but for shits and giggles, here is one of 200 proof: http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/Graphics/COfAInfo/SigmaSAPQM/SPEC/459844/459844-BULK_______SIAL_____.pdf
Here's the wiki for you to read up on real quick: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol now notice it can be made from either petroleum feedstock, or through the fermentation of sugars, the latter being drinking alcohol, also known as everclear. Speaking of everclear, we have 2 MSDS reports here, one of 151 proof everclear (http://www.nafaa.org/ethanol.pdf) and one of 190 proof everclear (http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9923956)
I'd like to point out, that the oral LD50 in mice, for both is around the same at about 3500mg/kg, but if you did all the reading you'd remember reading that (according to oxford) less than half the LD50 can cause toxicity in a 70kg human if left untreated.
After reading this, ask yourself which you'd rather use in the end... And feel free to ask any questions.
Thoughts on the legitability of this? Also anyone have any idea if anything is left over?
I've used ISO and Everclear with no distinction of the 2, or differences......
Hello class, this week we are going to be covering IPA(isopropyl alcohol, isopropanol, 2-propanol, etc) vs Etoh(ethyl alcohol, pure alcohol, grain alcohol, everclear, etc), as this seems to be a popular topic lately, or rather many folks seem to be using IPA for their food grade extractions, so here we will illustrate the differences, and explain why you should use Etoh INSTEAD of IPA (iso) for all your food grade extractions.
To start us off, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isopropyl_alcohol Now that you have read that, note that IPA comes mainly from the mixing of water and propene, that's right, a petroleum distillate!
Now he we will show a specification report for Sigma's 99.7%+ pure IPA (it's a PDF): http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/Graphic.../SPEC/W292907/W292907-BULK-K____ALDRICH__.pdf Now note the presence of things like arsenic, cadmium, mercury, and lead, keep in mind they are still present in this commercially refined "pure" product, so imagine what they are in the store bought brands (that purposefully keep it filthy anyways to prevent people drinking it[needs cite]).
Now here we have an MSDS report for 99% isopropanol http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9926005 And one for 70% http://www.transdesign.com/MSDS/La Palm/AlcoholseventyIPA.pdf Both clearly stating that IPA causes gastrointestinal problems, and over-exposure can cause damage to some internal organs, also "Persons with severe skin, liver or kidney problems should avoid use."
Now posting a spec report of ethanol is virtually useless, the pure grades contain usually nothing besides water and ethanol, maybe a point or two of methanol, but for shits and giggles, here is one of 200 proof: http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/Graphics/COfAInfo/SigmaSAPQM/SPEC/459844/459844-BULK_______SIAL_____.pdf
Here's the wiki for you to read up on real quick: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethanol now notice it can be made from either petroleum feedstock, or through the fermentation of sugars, the latter being drinking alcohol, also known as everclear. Speaking of everclear, we have 2 MSDS reports here, one of 151 proof everclear (http://www.nafaa.org/ethanol.pdf) and one of 190 proof everclear (http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9923956)
I'd like to point out, that the oral LD50 in mice, for both is around the same at about 3500mg/kg, but if you did all the reading you'd remember reading that (according to oxford) less than half the LD50 can cause toxicity in a 70kg human if left untreated.
After reading this, ask yourself which you'd rather use in the end... And feel free to ask any questions.
Thoughts on the legitability of this? Also anyone have any idea if anything is left over?
I've used ISO and Everclear with no distinction of the 2, or differences......
Blue Socks
Member
You guys are getting the putty like material consistency for your iso hash but whenever I make it, it comes out dry and sandy like dry sift. I don't use heat to purge the iso though i let it sit in front of a fan for at least 8 hours. I'll usually make some in the morning and by the time I get home later the plate is fully dry and there is no oil consistency left. All my iso comes out looking like this. The one on the right is first wash the one on the left second wash. Both were left in the iso for too long which is why they are a little darker than I normally like. Came from some Lemon Kush I had that got molded. The hash still smells faintly of the buds
Attachments
If you read the MSDS for ethanol, it will say essentially the same thing. At the levels of concern, neither are safe.
At the levels typically encountered in an extract, the concern is more in how it tastes.
At the levels typically encountered in an extract, the concern is more in how it tastes.
EzExtractions
New member
This is for any one who doesnt think that im getting 19% returns with this pump/tube method, and some dank.
4.2g of Outdoor Blue Cheese w/ stems
0.3g of stems removed = 3.9g of bud total
Scale Tared out with oil slick pad
0.8g of oil according to my scale
Put that on your nail and dab it!
Made with the C9EK
Peace out heads!
4.2g of Outdoor Blue Cheese w/ stems
0.3g of stems removed = 3.9g of bud total
Scale Tared out with oil slick pad
0.8g of oil according to my scale
Put that on your nail and dab it!
Made with the C9EK
Peace out heads!
static shock
Member
KonradZuse
Active member
I have a Palmscale 7 @ 200g, but it's fucked up. Since I got it every time I weigh something the scale goes into the negative range, so if I have a 0.05 item, it will say 0.02 and then if I take it off will say -0.03. It's messed up... I bought new batteries and it ate through those as well, still displaying the negatives at times. It does it especially now that my battery is super dying.
EzExtractions
New member
mines a palmscale 8.0 and i have never had an issue with it, some times it takes a little while to start up but thats it. Its always spot on right down to the tenth of a gram. I put my 250g weight on it every time before weighing out anything and its always spot on.
I use fresh batteries of course, maybe its time for an upgrade?
Thanks static for the kid words, im freezing up some press/heated hash right now to do an extraction, pics on Wednesday
Kushed_
Member
1-Look between platform and the case for obstruction(s). This area needs to be open space to allow the platform to move freely.
2-Try new batteries
3-Do a calibration
4-There may be a software setting for AZT (auto-zero width). If your scale allows, set this value for 3. The scale will automatically rezero itself for up to a value of .03 grams.
5-Scrap it
canna woop!
Member
nice i got to give a go at ethanol extraction next time. Does any one use freshly harvested cannabis for their extracts?
KonradZuse
Active member
Will do... Deff wont scrap it or buy another one... 30 year warranty ftw
I just got it like 2 years ago.....Washing the product/Neem and mildew.
Washing the product/Neem and mildew.
Gray Wolf some questions please. Because of Neem Oil and mildew I'm going to wash some product and then do an extraction either with butane or Isopropyl to clean it up first. I do a wash anyway and then dehydrate in a "Nesco" because of lung problems. Couple of questions, what way would you go, how many days would you water care, what size bag did you use to filter the water. The mildew is a worry, I use a Volcano Vape but will either the butane or Iso take care of the spores? This is a great thread with lots of very informed people, I appreciate your time.
Washing the product/Neem and mildew.
Gray Wolf some questions please. Because of Neem Oil and mildew I'm going to wash some product and then do an extraction either with butane or Isopropyl to clean it up first. I do a wash anyway and then dehydrate in a "Nesco" because of lung problems. Couple of questions, what way would you go, how many days would you water care, what size bag did you use to filter the water. The mildew is a worry, I use a Volcano Vape but will either the butane or Iso take care of the spores? This is a great thread with lots of very informed people, I appreciate your time.
The butane or Iso will concentrate what ever Neem oil is left and it will be harder to remove from the cannabis essential oil from that point on.
You might consider freezing the material and extracting bubble hash from it first, and then extracting oil from the hash. That would dramatically reduce the amount of surface area sprayed with Neem or infested with mildew, that is present when solvent is used.
If you extract with Iso, you can filter it down below a micron to get rid of the mold spores, or down to 0.2 micron, to get all the mold material and any bacteria.
If you extract with butane, and winterize with alcohol, you can also do the same thing.
If you elect to water wash, I wouldn't start with good bubble bags, because the sticks and stuff wear out the bags.
I would most likely wash in a 220 micron paint straining bag, and then process the wash through a 150, a 74, and a 50 bubble bags, if I had no other choices.
What I did, was make a wash bucket, by pop riveting 150 micron stainless mesh over a hole I cut in the bottom of a 5 gallon plastic bucket. I made a donut out of the lid and used that donut, silicone caulk, and some heavy mesh to reinforce the mesh installation.
Attachments
I reported on ethanol extraction from fresh harvested cannabis in "Amber in 15 minutes..." linked in signature.
Neem oil and mildew contamination.
Neem oil and mildew contamination.
Thanks Gray Wolf for the information. I kind of like the idea of making bubble hash first, that would cut down the area of neem contamination. To bad they have to add all the rest of the stuff with the neem oil, by its self its ok for consumption but just tastes bad and it's water soluble. The mildew is something new and really hasn't taken hold but its a worry of course.
Another question, I have noticed on EBay that the prices for Iso [C3H8O] is very good by the gallon compared to buying it locally by the quart or pint. I was looking at the ingredients and noticed it is petroleum based and didn't know that, thought is was made from corn like ethanol , the price is so good I'm thinking something is wrong with it, its not rubbing alcohol. Is there more than one formulation if its marked 99.9 pure? Its being marketed as a cleaner for parts.
Neem oil and mildew contamination.
Thanks Gray Wolf for the information. I kind of like the idea of making bubble hash first, that would cut down the area of neem contamination. To bad they have to add all the rest of the stuff with the neem oil, by its self its ok for consumption but just tastes bad and it's water soluble. The mildew is something new and really hasn't taken hold but its a worry of course.
Another question, I have noticed on EBay that the prices for Iso [C3H8O] is very good by the gallon compared to buying it locally by the quart or pint. I was looking at the ingredients and noticed it is petroleum based and didn't know that, thought is was made from corn like ethanol , the price is so good I'm thinking something is wrong with it, its not rubbing alcohol. Is there more than one formulation if its marked 99.9 pure? Its being marketed as a cleaner for parts.
Isopropyl is usually made from petroleum, but it is still the same chemical formula as simple alkane propyl alcohol, which it is an isomer of. The same atoms are just arranged differently.
Why should it matter where the atoms came from, as they are just atoms of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen.
The word rubbing alcohol was coined to cover alcohol used for rubbing, which may or may not be isopropyl. If they use ethanol, it will be denatured with something like Iso or methanol.
99.9% purity is the good stuff and will work fine.
