high temp shutoff for powerbox

[zizration]

hello ,i am asking this question for a buddie. the powerbox dpc 15000 light controller units have the optional trigger port for a high temp shut off device.



he purchased a grozone unit on the recommendation of the guy at the store..


http://www.bghydro.com/grozone-control-tp3-high-temperature-shut-off-tempstat.html



it only turns off 3 light tho. thats not providing the security he was looking for. anybody know which unit he could buy which would turn off all ten lights at once?

 

[Speed of green]

Is the powerbox programmed to only shut three lights down when your high temp is triggered?

https://www.hydroponics.net/i/135899

this is what i have ^^^
My 8 light controller has two trigger cords that plug into a timer, the timer is plugged into my high temp shutoff.

so when the heat gets too high, all the lights shut down.

 

[queequeg152]

just use relays/contactors.

i think the contactors they make for those automatic generator transfer switches come in insane sizes... 100+ amps.

but it might be cheaper to just use several 50 amp compressor contactors. idk.

 

[zizration]

i don't think the powerbox can be configured to only shut down 3 lights? it only has the one trigger port and it has its own built in timer. when the heat gets to the set high it shuts down 3 lights only. yours is doing eight tho? that would be good. gotta get that figured out..

 

[zizration]

just use relays/contactors.

i think the contactors they make for those automatic generator transfer switches come in insane sizes... 100+ amps.

but it might be cheaper to just use several 50 amp compressor contactors. idk.

well they advertise the powerbox as having a trigger port for high temp shut off. would be kind of cool to make use of it..

 

[queequeg152]

what is the trigger port?

is it just a 120vac signal? or is it just a switch?

if its a 120vac signal, then get some 120vac coil contactors.

if its a switched output, then IMO... get a 500ma 24vac doorbell transformer and wire it to the N/O contacts, then to your contactors.

24vac is better for relay controls... safer, simpler wiring etc. just get some 18 gauge 3 conductor plenum thermostat wire. its like 5 cents a foot.

 

[zizration]

you sure make that sound easy....http://www.powerboxinc.com/dpc15000.html this is the unit in question..


i wish you lived near me, id get you to do this for me!!

 

[queequeg152]

800 fucking real life dollars for that thing?

fucking hell.

its basically a simple power distribution center? contractors build these things all the time to run table saws and air compressors right off the panel. its like 300 bucks worth of parts and tool cord...

what ever.

anyway, i looked up the pdf and these things have "trigger ports", not high temp imputs?

it will do the same thing though.

basically you feed that outlet 120v, and your lights will turn on and override the built in timer.

so basically all you need to do is put a normally open contactor inbetween this 120v 'lights on' signal.

you want normally open because in the event of a power failure or failure of your thermostat equipment, it will fail OFF.

then you wire a cheap simple heating thermostat that will cut out when your emergency temp condition is reached.

you can wire this thermostat with 120vac ( aka line voltage thermostat), or with a 24vac transformer like i mentioned.

personally i would run a transformer... its safer though a bit more expensive. a transformer + 3amp fuse or what ever size the thermostat wires and transformer needs will be like 15-25 bucks.

a thermostat linevoltage or low voltage will be like 20 bucks.

if you are not familiar with wiring shit and setting up thermostats... please just get a johnson controls line voltage thermostat. they are stupid simple.

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Johnson-...age-Digital-Temperature-Control-120-240v-SPDT

just move the jumper to heating mode, then wire your hot/load conductor through the N/C contacts, then set the thermostat up.

the thermostat will be acting as a switch that will turn off the 'lights on' signal to your box thing.

 

[BlackMarketMic]

Hi, I was just thinking of a simple way of doing this with my grow after having a discussion with one of my grow buddies because he has the Gavita de pro's with a master controller, the gavita's have a safety feature that dims the lights at a set temperature if it gets too hot and even better the lights will shutoff if dimming is not enough to bring the heat down as an overall safety feature wich is very important. Im running 3 1000w magnetic ballasts on relays so the only time they shut off is when I unplug them..the ballasts are not inside the grow rooms and are not in enclosed metal boxes either to let them run cooler. Minutes before stumbling on your thread I pondered how I could achieve this without forking over my hard earned dolla bills to the hydro stores over priced/over hyped brand named equipment.. It's simple, just like queequeg said a thermostat set at maximum temperature you want your lights to shut off at the thermostat controls the coil on a relay, your plugs for your lights are wired from the n.c. contacts (normally closed) on the relay. So what this means is your outlets for your ballasts are always powered or controlled by timer unless your grow room temperature rises above the safety temperature you set on the thermostat, if it gets too hot thermostat activates it's contact which magnetizes the coil on the relay changing the state of n.c. contacts to open therefore cutting off the power to the ballast outlets. 10 lights at 120 v or 240 v ? I presume they would be on 240 circuits so max 5 amps each so total 50 amp draw go for a 60 amp contactor so it won't be loaded 100% and get a cheap 24 v doorbell transformer and a low voltage thermostat. 200-300$ for this diy... contactor will be the most expensive item and you probably will have to get it from an electrical equipment supplier.