Hempy Bucket Basic Questions

[Cannabis]

I have started a test grow with two identical clones to see how my hempybucquet compares to the traditional hempy.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=94461

Two weeks into the test and the soil/hydro "bucquet" is outperforming about 2 to 1.

I just went over there...

the test is run unevenly.

feeding a soil/hydroponic hybrid box AND a fully hydroponic bucket, this:

Per gallon:
4 drops superthrive
4 droppers shultz 10-15-10
1 Tbsp fish emulsion
1 Tbsp molasses

Once the thing's straightened out it's easy to see the ramifications of a perlite bed with water in it, under ANY soil grow: adequate nutrient uptake and transpiration, with a fall-back on the soil for moisture once the reserve empties, enhanced uptake when the soil's capable of it, and it'll be there I'm sure to help. Matter of fact I thought of this exact concept for outdoor holes: watering a perlite/lava rock bed under an outdoor plant through a down tube so evaporation is nil. I hope it works well.

Nevertheless the test as done is erroneous by design; whether intentional or not I don't know. I don't necessarily think so, but there's no doubt the hydroponic plant is starved, so it's NOT the same thing as both being fed well.

[Edit: another guy came in the thread & said he fed both plants HYDROPONIC nutes, and says adamantly the hybrid bucket performs way better..]

 

[Pharma Geddon]

Pharma, can you use a wick system with the hempy buckets? And if so, how would you suggest going about it if you were to try it? I'm convinced the Dutch had the right idea in the first place; in overall terms, passive hydro is best. What you lack in raw power you gain in security once dialed in, so I'm trying to dig every thread I can on it so I can incorporate that into the designs. Passive hydro has such advantages that I think it's criminal considering the electricity issues we're facing to not be revisited and perfected once and for all.

Not sure on the wick system, no experience with them but the basic hand fed passive hydro is good enough for me.

I've got 7 week vegged all green vibrant seed plants and I've done is slop in 1 litre of lucas formula into each bucket each night, no flushing.

I love it to bits, if you're home, spend 10 minutes feeding them and doing the next nute mix. If you want to go out, they can miss a night or 2.

At some point I'll have the feeding automated but for now I'm still sorting out plant numbers/positioning.

 

[Jungle Jim]

So you just add back full strength nutes each time? If the plant is taking up water faster than nutes then how does the res in the bottom of the bucket not become too strong for the plants.

 

[G33k Speak]

...
The run off is a sod though.

I've now fitted drainage to the garden trays so it just flows away after feeding ....

you're halfway to a recirculating system...

why waste the nutes and water??

maybe I'm just OCD.

 

[BigBlack81]

So true. If one fourth the work were put into maximising the returns & methods of using passive in general, the whole pot growing scene would take off like a rocket. How did it ever become "established fact" that pot's hard to grow? Takes all these over engineered, Spiders-With-Antlers configurations with radio antennae on both rear views like an 18 wheeler?

It's a sin.

How many people have looked at forums, gone ''OMG" and left never to come back when if they'd have seen how easy it is to just grow your own..... bah..

This is why I'm trying to persue this as much as we can. Considering all the issues involved with growing, I like the idea of making passive wick hydro or passive capillary hydro work considering the ability of small plastic tubs to be shifted and used at will, once dialed in.

That said, I'm thinking that these little buckets in 20oz cups with a six-sided tiny hole drill pattern will allow enough water flow in a small passive plastic tub for which nute solution or pure water could be poured in. I'm thinking the Ziploc/Rubbermaid half gallon tubs with holes in the lids and netpots cut for the occasion with a small dremel could make this a possibility. A small spout in the lid for filling and a rubber stopper to make sure evaporation isn't an issue would make this system quick and efficient if one is doing it right. And the advantages of the clones taking the nutes they need at their time makes dialing in the watering schedule so much easier. The clones dictate the pace and once dialing the height ratio in correctly, doing this in a larger format wouldn't be much more difficult.

Some thoughts? And all apologies for hijacking the thread but this is such a baller idea that I want to expand it and see if we can make this research a reality for all involved. All our failures will one day make a great success if we can show that the sacred herb can be grown safely and securely if we think outside the box.

 

[CaptainTrips]

So true. If one fourth the work were put into maximising the returns & methods of using passive in general, the whole pot growing scene would take off like a rocket. How did it ever become "established fact" that pot's hard to grow? Takes all these over engineered, Spiders-With-Antlers configurations with radio antennae on both rear views like an 18 wheeler?

lol. Yeah, growing pot is EASY. Sure getting the most yield or whatever takes some skill. But growing healthy weed for a nice personal stash is easy. Doesn't matter if your growing in soil, passive hydro or active hydro. Personally i think hydro is easier. Ive got e&f and 1 hempy going.

 

[BigBlack81]

Do you think you could replace the perlite with some rockwool nuggets to make this system completely reusable? That in 20oz pop bottles would make this system prime for organic hydro microSOG. All the things you want in weed in a small package. Baller.

Ideas? Thoughts?

 

[Dalaihempy]

Do you think you could replace the perlite with some rockwool nuggets to make this system completely reusable? That in 20oz pop bottles would make this system prime for organic hydro microSOG. All the things you want in weed in a small package. Baller.

Ideas? Thoughts?

If you want to make the medium reusable i would go with clay rocks and nothing more i my self dont like to re use perlite others do i my self dont but i have used clay rocks and found they work well to.

 

[paulobaca]

Hey thanks all for the very helpful info. I've learned a lot about hempy buckets, but I havent found too much info on veg times.

I think hempy may have reccomended 2.5 gallon buckets, what would be a good veg time under a 400W MH for a freshly rooted clone in a 2.5 bucket?

How many hempy buckets do you guys put under 1 1k HPS? For example would 12 hempy buckets vegged for 10 days in 1.5 gallon containers work under a 1k?

I know for dwc they grow so big that 12 plants under 1k would not work.

I was gonna do a rockwool drip this run but Im thinking of changing to hempy buckets. Has anybody done a bunch of mini hempy buckets, using a SOG keep em small to keep canopy even type of concept. It seems most hempy buckets are tree style grows.

Thanks for all the info.

 

[messn'n'gommin']

Hey thanks all for the very helpful info. I've learned a lot about hempy buckets, but I havent found too much info on veg times.

I think hempy may have reccomended 2.5 gallon buckets, what would be a good veg time under a 400W MH for a freshly rooted clone in a 2.5 bucket?

How many hempy buckets do you guys put under 1 1k HPS? For example would 12 hempy buckets vegged for 10 days in 1.5 gallon containers work under a 1k?

I know for dwc they grow so big that 12 plants under 1k would not work.

I was gonna do a rockwool drip this run but Im thinking of changing to hempy buckets. Has anybody done a bunch of mini hempy buckets, using a SOG keep em small to keep canopy even type of concept. It seems most hempy buckets are tree style grows.

Thanks for all the info.

This may help point you in the right direction.

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=94461

Namaste. mess

 

[PurpDiesel 87]

You can do it either way, right now i have 2 grows going. one with the recommended 2.5 gallon buckets which i have 8 going under a 600w hps. and then i cut clones and they are looking god right now those wil be in 1 gallon buckets and will only veg for 2 weeks.

http://icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=102438\

 

[Bass Akwards]

Another variation ...

Another variation ...

After reading about the "hempy" system, and other hydro schemes, we wondered whether it could be adapted. The idea of separating a soil layer and a pearlite layer with coir is interesting, and there might be a PH change or bacteriological reason it contributes, but it might not be necessary.

The biggest problem with hydro is that growers are Locked In to the absurd prices and promotional "hoo-doo" of the major Hydro suppliers. Having to constantly defy nature ( keeping every organic out of the liquid lest it become "contaminated" ) and test for PPM and PH, is a hassle that can be learned, and done well, but why bother?

Here's what we did last Spring to test a 5 gallon bucket outdoors:

Four holes were drilled three inches from the bottom. One inch of sand was added, and then the entire bucket was filled with a pearlite/vermiculite mixture. ( Four gallons of Pearlite and one gallon of vermiculite were placed in another bucket, and soaked with water. It was dumped on a tarp and rolled around until it was completely blended. )

The mix was sprinkled, a bit at a time, with a dry mixture of amendments containing: 1 cup Milorganite ( an activated sludge product, completely organic and sterile ) 1 cup bone meal, 1 cup Cottonseed meal, 2 cups Kelp meal, 2 cups of Gypsum, 1 cup kitchen compost, and 2 tablespoons Epsom Salts.

This was a variation of the BCGA "Super Soil", without the peat-moss.

( Worm castings could be substituted for the compost if none is available. )

The bucket was planted with two green pepper starts, and watered.

At the end of the season, an examination showed no slime or other bio-hazard at the bottom, and a healthy growth of roots all the way down. The plants did just fine, and produced as well, and grew slightly better, than other buckets containing various organic soil mixes.

There's no doubt in our mind that this can be done indoors, with herb.

Plain tap water ( aerated overnight ), good lighting, and lots of fans & ventilation should be all that's needed.

Comments and suggestions are always welcome.

 

[Bass Akwards]

Upon further consideration ...

Upon further consideration ...

Upon further consideration, and after reading other posts, we might forget about the vermiculite altogether since the Kelp and Cottonseed meal will both hold some moisture, and so will the Milorganite.

One caveat about using Milorganite: until there's a flush of flora & fauna from the compost/castings in the mix, it could have a musty odor when moistened. There's no commercially available fertilizer that's anywhere near as complete, organic, and inexpensive, as this product of the Milwaukee sewer district. Fourty pound bags are available nationwide.

It might also be beneficial to make up these buckets a few weeks in advance of using them. In much the same way that organic soil mixes must "cure", allowing time for the bacteria & fungus to develop, the same principle would apply.

If you think that the roots would do better with no nutrients near the bottom, go ahead and try. It would probably depend on the watering schedule, how much runoff has to be drained away, and whether it's intended to be a small bush, or a major piece of lumber.

Though watering would be a hassle by hand, this arrangement even might even work in a SOG situation, with a larger number of much smaller pots.

 

[Dalaihempy]

The biggest problem with hydro is that growers are Locked In to the absurd prices and promotional "hoo-doo" of the major Hydro suppliers. Having to constantly defy nature

Well the advantage of hydro is its sterile no pests no weeds and less things go wrong how hard is it to mix nutrents into water and then feed your plants.

All you need is a half decent nutrient you dont need all the rest they try and sell you like bud swell and so on.

The advantages of hydro to organics is clear for indoors the plants take up nutrients much faster than organic grown plants do why hydro is faster as hydro nutrients once mixet with water can be taken up by the plants roots as soon as there feed but with organic feeding the organics need to brake down at a micro level before plants can take up the nutrients wich takes days and nutrients are made of salts and minerals wich are also found in nature.

 

[wickedpete66]

hempy buckets

 

[dubwise]

I'm nearly complete on my first ever hempy system and could not be happier. I run two other systems for my veggies (hydro) and they are a pain in the ass compared to my hempy bucket system.

 

[Bass Akwards]

with organic feeding the organics need to brake down at a micro level before plants can take up the nutrients wich takes days and nutrients are made of salts and minerals wich are also found in nature.

Organic nutrients do not "brake down".

They don't really even "break" down.

Rather, on a continuous basis, bacteria and fungus growing on the roots metabolize soil constituents and make nutrients available. There's no time gap where nutrients aren't available.

"Wich" salts and minerals are found in nature ... so what?

As for hydro nutes being "sterile", ... that's just incredibly stupid.

Get this straight, dimwit, every square cubic inch of this planet, from the bottom of the ocean to the top of Mt. Everest is awash with trillions of bacteria and fungus. Unless your hydro is running inside an autoclave ( look it up ) and even if the nutes were manufactured and packaged sterile, ( which they're not ) they'd be contaminated as soon as the bottle opens!

Plentiful air, and the help of gravity, have more to do with the speed of hydro grows than anything associated with the nutrients.

In an organic hydro setup, where exactly would the pests come from?

Without peat-based soil, the chances of bugs arriving are miniscule.

Cottonseed meal, kelp meal, dried blood, bone meal, Milorganite, and molasses, don't carry bugs. Neither do worm castings or Epsom salts.

 

[Dalaihempy]

Organic nutrients do not "brake down".

They don't really even "break" down.

Bull shit.

Rather, on a continuous basis, bacteria and fungus growing on the roots metabolize soil constituents and make nutrients available. There's no time gap where nutrients aren't available.

"Wich" salts and minerals are found in nature ... so what?

As for hydro nutes being "sterile", ... that's just incredibly stupid.

Get this straight, dimwit, every square cubic inch of this planet, from the bottom of the ocean to the top of Mt. Everest is awash with trillions of bacteria and fungus. Unless your hydro is running inside an autoclave ( look it up ) and even if the nutes were manufactured and packaged sterile, ( which they're not ) they'd be contaminated as soon as the bottle opens!

Plentiful air, and the help of gravity, have more to do with the speed of hydro grows than anything associated with the nutrients.

In an organic hydro setup, where exactly would the pests come from?

Without peat-based soil, the chances of bugs arriving are miniscule.

Cottonseed meal, kelp meal, dried blood, bone meal, Milorganite, and molasses, don't carry bugs. Neither do worm castings or Epsom salts.

Conventionally (as well as hydroponically) grown plants grow faster and produce higher yields of higher quality. Some growers testify that organics produce better tasting crops; this may be true due to various organic components that become available to the plant during the breakdown process of organic matter. For this to be completely true the plant requires both organic plant and animal matter. For most organic nutrients, a breakdown process needs to occur for the nutrients to become available to the plant. This breakdown process is preformed by micro-organisms found in soil. These micro-organisms break down the organic matter into nitrates, ammonium, potassium oxides etc. These are exactly the same as what the conventional nutrients provide to the plants. The organic process takes time and the micro-organisms also consume some of the nutrients that the plants require. Plants grown using conventional nutrients tend to grow faster and yield more, but it’s also easier to over-fertilize plants and salt buildup can be a problem if you don’t leach periodically. Correcting deficiencies is also easier with conventional nutrients since they are so readily available to the plant. Organically-grown plants tend to grow slower and yield less, but there is less of a problem with salt buildup and flavor can often be better than conventionally-grown plants. Organic fertilizers may also limit the choice of growing mediums and systems you can use. Here are some examples of conventional (mineral) and organic nutrients that BGH supplies:


Your fucken nuts.

 

[ThisBuds4You]

Bass Akwards:

I think I'd listen to Dalaihempy since he's the creator of the Hempy bucket method...

--
TB4U

 

[Bass Akwards]

Is English a 2nd Language?

Is English a 2nd Language?

Conventionally (as well as hydroponically) grown plants grow faster and produce higher yields of higher quality. Some growers testify that organics produce better tasting crops; this may be true due to various organic components that become available to the plant during the breakdown process of organic matter. For this to be completely true the plant requires both organic plant and animal matter. For most organic nutrients, a breakdown process needs to occur for the nutrients to become available to the plant. This breakdown process is preformed by micro-organisms found in soil. These micro-organisms break down the organic matter into nitrates, ammonium, potassium oxides etc. These are exactly the same as what the conventional nutrients provide to the plants. The organic process takes time and the micro-organisms also consume some of the nutrients that the plants require. Plants grown using conventional nutrients tend to grow faster and yield more, but it’s also easier to over-fertilize plants and salt buildup can be a problem if you don’t leach periodically. Correcting deficiencies is also easier with conventional nutrients since they are so readily available to the plant. Organically-grown plants tend to grow slower and yield less, but there is less of a problem with salt buildup and flavor can often be better than conventionally-grown plants. Organic fertilizers may also limit the choice of growing mediums and systems you can use. Here are some examples of conventional (mineral) and organic nutrients that BGH supplies:

Your fucken nuts.

Either you can't spell, don't wish to spell correctly, are too lazy to use spell-check, or just don't care. Did you intend to use possessive case?

( is English a second language? )

"You're" evidently under the spell of a common ailment:

You Believe Everything You Read!

The blatant marketing pitch you posted above was cut & pasted wholesale from the website of a Hydro Store!

The very least you could have done is give them credit.

( Especially since they're wrong. )

Here's the link: http://forums.bghydro.com/faq.php?faq=faq_nutrients

Consider the source, or find better ones, before you spout off again.