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Hemp Russet Mites!! Help?

zoo

Active member
I've had broad mites before. I believe you deal with russets the same way

Ditch any organic method. Fuck heat treatments they do not work and neither does spinosad. You will never kill every single egg with a heat treatment. Impossible to heat the whole plant to 120F. There will always be cool spots where eggs/larvae can survive. I tried many heat treatments and they did not work.

My advice. Ditch all big plants take clones of everything you want to keep. Buy some avid/forbid and some yukka extract

New clones once rooted need to be dipped in avid/forbid in this cycle @1ml/ gallon

day 1 - avid
day 5 - forbid
day 10 - avid
day 15 - forbid

(use yukka as a surfacant) - not essential though

Job done.
 

spaceboy

Active member
Just found out ive had these for at least 2 maybe 3 cycles. All plants are about a foot tall at the moment so Im hoping Im not too late, but Im concerned about them being all over the room and maybe the house. Wondering how these are transfered from plant to plant besides wind and other insects and myself..?
Maybe they need to be treated and put on clean tables with no fans blowing on them while you continue to treat and sterilize the environment even further???

Also seems some have had success with chems and some still battling them even though they have used the same chems. I think its coming down to plant size and eradicating them totally from the environment. Is it true these things can live on dead plant matter for up to 80 days? If so than even jars need to be sterilized.

Would love to hear from more people that have successfully beat these bastards.
 

D3pthCharg3

Member
I've read: min - 80 days, max - 6 months. This is based on reading forums, not from an entomologist though. I personally am not sure what to think. I've let mine lay fallow for 3.5 months, just in case, and because I could. I know patience is not an option in some grows.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
damnit...
picture.php
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Check out my thread here, https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=335002

I had a lot of success against HMR and other nasties with the spray I make now. Apologies if you've already seen the thread. :good:

Good lookin out whodat, I just sprayed with safer 3 in 1 tho tonight n it says not to mix sulfer with oils, could kill the plants, but ima make your recipe and keep it handy if this safer + no pest strips doesnt get the job done. Last time I had um a few years back og biowar did the trick but I hit um a week ago n had humidity in the 90s for 2 days n didnt have no effect, might got a bad batch or sumfa cuz the root pack smelt way worse then i remember.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Hot Shot No Pest strip kills russets.

so I had some of these but they were used, been stored in a freezer bag. I put 3 in my veg chamber and 3 in my seed crop which is in a 3x3 tent. after 24 hours just scoped, seen a bunch of bugs in a stand still, but I zoomed in closer and ones mouth or front legs or whatever was movin still. But they definitely seem to be workin, yesterday they were all havin a fuckin rave on my shit, now they all look stoned out they minds. Ima get a few fresh ones and put um in both rooms for a few more days, then spray some safer 3 in 1 after I take um out. Prolly leave the ones in the veg chamber but the 3x3 tent is in a room in my house so dont want them things hangin for too long. I'll keep yall updated.
 

who dat is

Cave Dweller
Veteran
I think it begs the question, "Do I want to "treat" my plants with something that I don't want in my house for any amount of time?"

I don't want to step on toes, just food for thought. :2cents:
 
O

Orrie

I would listen to what who dat is has to say on the matter\ get your environment right so the good guys outnumber the bad guys.

From his excellent advice earlier in this thread and others-

Sorry to anybody else that's seen this same info today but I'll post it here again for the 3rd or 4th time just so everybody can know another approach to get rid of these. The following is a copy and paste I wrote and posted in other threads today
thumbup.gif





[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Don't add any sulphur in conjunction with or after any sprays using oils, the two together create a phytotoxic effect on your plants. I'm also not a fan of OG Biowar as I personally think it is a vastly overpriced product where %70 of the product itself is Talc.

I had recent success against Russet Mites by using Green Cleaner for 2 or 3 applications, 3 days apart to initially knock them their numbers down. Apply the predator mites several days after your last green cleaner application so that they won't be killed off by it before they can do what they are supposed to do. I would order predator mites right now and get them to you before any additional damage is done. The nice thing about the mites is that they will stick around if cared for and will continually do work against spider, russet, and broad mites. I ordered mine from Evergreen Growers Supply. Here is a link where they break down what good mites will combat the bad, specifically for cannabis. https://www.evergreengrowers.com/crop...endations.html

Here are the relevant ones for you that I had on my last order that I was very happy with,

Amblyseius swirskii - For Russets, Broads
Hypoaspis (Stratiolaelaps scimitus Womersley) - General soil mite, good defender against fungus gnats, etc.
Amblyseius fallacis on bean leaves - Good attacker against spider mites and good general defense
Amblyseius cucumeris Rapid Release - Also eats russet mites and good defense.

Seafour also recently recommended to me to get bee pollen to apply to the plants after a time so that they can feed off of it after bad mite populations begin to dwindle and the good mites can eat that as well as the bad mites to survive.

With all of this you can create the perfect defense to really knock them out and also keep them around so they don't stick around. I would venture a guess that if Russets are around then they are all over so you want to create this good environment for the beneficial predators to exist and stick around to perpetually keep the Russets off your plants. Keep us posted, no need to lose sleep [/FONT]


simple as that.
 

Treetroit City

Moderately Super
Veteran
Notice I was careful to not recommend the no pest strip. Just stating facts. I wouldn't use them in flower and would not want to even use them in veg however to each their own.
 

DoubleTripleOG

Chemdog & Kush Lover Extraordinaire
ICMag Donor
Here's a link for info on the active ingredient in the No Pest strips. Scroll down to the "fate in humans and animals" section. There's always a lot of misinformation spread around on the net. Pretty sure Cornell college, Michigan State, Oregon State, and UV of CA have their shit together.


EDIT: here's the link , spaced out for a bit there.

http://pmep.cce.cornell.edu/profiles/extoxnet/carbaryl-dicrotophos/dichlorvos-ext.html
 

Treetroit City

Moderately Super
Veteran
Here's a link for info on the active ingredient in the No Pest strips. Scroll down to the "fate in humans and animals" section. There's always a lot of misinformation spread around on the net. Pretty sure Cornell college, Michigan State, Oregon State, and UV of CA have their shit together.

Ahhh, about that link...
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Lol! Where is here? Anyway I only used um in early early veg and the other tent a seed crop, where ima just harvest the seeds and throw out the leftover material. Not really worried about it.
 

CHEFfy

Member
If you're not worried about finished product or are still in veg... forbid does the trick. You can usually get a repackaged ounce of,the stuff on eBay if you just need enough to get rid of em once. Again, not a recommendation but it def works.
 
O

Orrie

When does a poison get rid of them forever?

If that were the case, growers would spray pesticides or hang no pest strips once but it appears the opposite to be true

The folks having the toughest time with pests seem to be the ones who advocate spraying. Growers using predators report less continued problems with RM/BM on these boards.


side note-
I would hope those of you not throwing your product out would be honest about the chems that were used while growing.


Other than that, if it works for you .....
 

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