Hemp Russet Mites!! Help?

[DONAJTHEIII]

your sayin teas wiped em out mo?

I just realized that I've got these fuckers all over my veg...not happy at the moment...I've got about 10 days to kill the fuck out of em...what's a guy to do?

spinosad? imid? floramite? avid? Aza? I've got all of those in the arsenal right now...wondering where I should start

Glad to be back sad to see people still fighting these little bugs.


First off im going to say that 99% of the time dirty cuttings are the place to pick these up. Kinda like getting an STD from a prostitute got a good chance to get one if you keep hitting up different sluts without protection.

I strongly believe these things are hard to get otherwise they have to be introduced from clones or whiteflies etc and really let them get out of control. If youve been hitting them in a rotation with the stuff youve mentioned above oh man somethings up dude they should be in check.

Anyways first off before anything bro clean your room or rooms up. No point in any of this shit if your not sanitary this is something im trying to get better at and relates directly to my exp. with the med field.

Heat that god damn room up to around 115 degrees and get those bastards running to the races after cleaning it up. After these steps, I know avinash's post above is the opposite and i respect him/her opinion , but I would then use a good neem product. The heat will not only kill the adults but will fry the eggs. Following up with a neem product ensures the egg aspect of being covered (ovacide). Next If your environment is optimal Id go with predators after another heat treat of two. If I wasnt going to with predators then Id hit them with a shot of avid the day of flip after a week of your last neem application.


Hope this helps bro just my 2 cents

in summary id do

Clean....Heat...2 day break... Heat....3 days later Neem..... then a week later follow up with avid etc or go the predator route. then flips em and see how it goes.


I like predators better if you have an optimal environment after an initial treatment of some sort to bring down mite population. like having security 24/7 I let off another group of predators halfway through flower fyi


deuces bro good luck

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

Psa off topic

The reason why the natural organic mite spray Gaurdian works so well is it has just a (recently detected) secret ingredient. Avid. No shit, they just got busted by my favorite lab in Eugene Oregon. O G Analytical. The owner of the company even copped to it in a statement.
http://www.oregonlive.com/marijuana...lags_potential_problem.html#incart_river_home

 

[JayTrinity]

Just did Conserve SC at 6.5 and 6.3 PH test run at 3 mill from a high powered paint sprayer.

Notice the bodies, they are shriveled, not just dead or dying but WRECKED!

Photo one: 300X vet microscope.



Photo 2: 300X vet microscope. VERY close up photo.

 

[Shantij]

Question

Question

Edit: I no longer advocate the use of neem based products at any stage of flower. Bio-accumulation has made me extremely sensitive to azamax/azatrol products. It is _not_ gone in even 60 days of indoor flowering. Please use these methods for veg only.

Complete eradication is still available.

Anything in flower that doesn't have mites on the buds yet... can possibly be controlled. Mix a 5ml/gallon solution of Azamax or Azatrol. Add a Capful of isopropyl alcohol (about 90% or stronger) and a few drops of dish detergent until the solution spreads on the leaf instead of beading up.

Use a sponge and wipe the top and bottom of every fan leaf, not the sugar leaves if possible. Please try not to drip this stuff on any buds. Difficult, but you CAN save your crop.... if you don't have hundreds of plants that is. Wipe the stems and any areas that have mites on them.

Dunk any clones or seedlings in this same mixture and you can also use it to spray.... as in completely drenching the plant but NOT the soil... no isopropyl in the soil please.


Any plants in flower that are 45 days from harvest can have 1ml/gallon put into their res or watered into soilless mixes.... at least 5ml/gallon is good for soil, others have said they can use more without harm... YMMV.


All plants in veg get a soil drench of 5ml/gallon and everything hydro gets 1ml/gallon.


Can you empty your flowering room for 6-8 hours?? Bomb it with floramite if you can.... just not your plants. Scrub down the floors and walls with a 5-10% bleach solution.

Spray/Dunk plants in veg every 5-6 days for 2-3 weeks... that should break the cycle. Keep them dosed with soil drench or straight in the res every 30 days.


You CAN get rid of them and the preventative maint in the veg room will keep them out. No need to rip everything down.


Stay Safe!

What is YMMV? When you say 5ml/gallon you mean 5ml of what, (Azamax or Azatrol?), to a gallon of water? And no isopropyl?

Thanks, Not sure if you'll see this. I'm new to these things.

 

[JayTrinity]

heads up, about to preflower and I found russets on an already sprayed plant.
They came back even after a good IPM.

 

[JayTrinity]

Hi is TetraSan good for russets? Already used Forbid 2 months ago then last month forbid with avid. dont want to use it to much

 

[_tessarecting]

Youre better off not using that stuff at all...click the link in my sig

 

[JayTrinity]

not sure. my friend is using surfer and aspirin every other day then nukem.
might go with met 52

 

[JayTrinity]

I ended up on a 50 gallon mix tank with Big time exterminator. I mix it all up one time and have a paint sprayer attached. So now I can spray any time I want!

 

[who dat is]

Sorry to anybody else that's seen this same info today but I'll post it here again for the 3rd or 4th time just so everybody can know another approach to get rid of these. The following is a copy and paste I wrote and posted in other threads today

Don't add any sulphur in conjunction with or after any sprays using oils, the two together create a phytotoxic effect on your plants. I'm also not a fan of OG Biowar as I personally think it is a vastly overpriced product where %70 of the product itself is Talc.

I had recent success against Russet Mites by using Green Cleaner for 2 or 3 applications, 3 days apart to initially knock them their numbers down. Apply the predator mites several days after your last green cleaner application so that they won't be killed off by it before they can do what they are supposed to do. I would order predator mites right now and get them to you before any additional damage is done. The nice thing about the mites is that they will stick around if cared for and will continually do work against spider, russet, and broad mites. I ordered mine from Evergreen Growers Supply. Here is a link where they break down what good mites will combat the bad, specifically for cannabis. http://www.evergreengrowers.com/crop...endations.html

Here are the relevant ones for you that I had on my last order that I was very happy with,

Amblyseius swirskii - For Russets, Broads
Hypoaspis (Stratiolaelaps scimitus Womersley) - General soil mite, good defender against fungus gnats, etc.
Amblyseius fallacis on bean leaves - Good attacker against spider mites and good general defense
Amblyseius cucumeris Rapid Release - Also eats russet mites and good defense.

Seafour also recently recommended to me to get bee pollen to apply to the plants after a time so that they can feed off of it after bad mite populations begin to dwindle and the good mites can eat that as well as the bad mites to survive.

With all of this you can create the perfect defense to really knock them out and also keep them around so they don't stick around. I would venture a guess that if Russets are around then they are all over so you want to create this good environment for the beneficial predators to exist and stick around to perpetually keep the Russets off your plants. Keep us posted, no need to lose sleep

 

[KONY]

Do these mites and broad mites seem to prefer some strains over others, or rather are some strains resistant to their damage??

Still chasing a dudding problem. Few plants have looked like Mtn picturs on the previous page. However Forum GSC is 100% resistant to the problem. My glue is mostly resistant too, wifi is right in the middle. However Guava, Casey Jones and Bubba kush are very susceptible.

 

[JayTrinity]

my glue and GSK is fine my double dream has damage but many DD are ace!

EDIT: found a single russet on my guerilla glue on a weird looking leaf. Just one.
Im sure there millions but iv got them in hard core check so they wont ever get the best of me.

IPM, I hate it. Rotation, rotation, I spray more then I get laid.

 

[George]

if you guys are having luck with spinosad, i would look into imidicloprid. imid and spinosad seem to kill the same bug types. they both claim a "unique mode of action" but when you read the description they seem to kill them the same way. uncontrollable twitching, ripping muscle from tissue, paralysis, death. imid is what is used in advantage flea treatment for dogs. its got a wide range of target insects. do not use on plants outside that have flowers as you will kill bees with it. be smart, time it properly.

i had russets way back and used heat to take care of business. recently got thrips and white flys again (white flys can be taken care of using h202, worked awesome but they are coming in from outside due to all the citrus trees we have so i wanted something that will continue to work) and this time used imid on vegging plants. they killed off everything so far and its a systemic and will stay in the plant for like 30 days or so. if i only had the whiteflys i would of ran with the h202 but with the thrips, spinosad worked but i must of missed a spot and got reinfected. the imid so far as taken care of business and i dont have to worry about missing a spot since it translocates everywhere. itll stay in the plant long enough to break the life cycle as well. make sure you do it right to. 2 oz per gallon. put your ferts in and ph the mix. water the plants until good runoff, then leave them alone for a few days. do not water with regular mix the next day or whatever. let them absorb it, its a systemic soil drench so it needs to have time to be uptaken and your medium should really be completely soaked with it. i dont do the drench, just water them until your at 100% saturation. i did two back to back treatments to be safe and the plants show no wear from the IMID. just make sure you buy the imid only version, i have heard the one with the contact killer can cause some damage. pure imid shows no damage what so ever. if you want a contact killer, spray them with spinosad for immediate effect, then hit them with the imid in that order. i guess you coudl spray the imid too but, id rather keep spraying any kind of chemical to a min/zero. i wouldnt do it the other way as i wouldn't wanna be handling the plants after using the imid. less exposure just always feels better. could be safe as shit, who cares. water can kill you if you drink enough...

anyways, what im getting at is give the IMID a whirl. i just use the citrus and vegetable version from Monterrey from the local hydro store. i dont have it in front of me but i think its .22%. good stuff for vegging plants. i wouldnt feed them this stuff during flower no matter what the label says though. smoking is different than eating and its not worth the risk for me.

 

[D3pthCharg3]

can hemp russet mites be seen moving under the scope? I am seeing something that looks like the pics on the bottom leaves of a clone I received, but they don't appear to be moving. Can you see them moving along ever so slowly like spider mites?

 

[who dat is]

can hemp russet mites be seen moving under the scope? I am seeing something that looks like the pics on the bottom leaves of a clone I received, but they don't appear to be moving. Can you see them moving along ever so slowly like spider mites?

You can see them moving. They sort of wriggle around and they look more like some nasty little maggots or something to me instead of mites. I would think it prudent to treat all new cuts coming in with a good IPM treatment to ensure nobody is hitching a ride in.

 

[D3pthCharg3]

Ive checked out a few videos online of them moving. From viewing still images only, it may appear as though these are what's on the undersides of some of my leaves. However, what's on my leaf doesn't move, any of them. After seeing them moving on a video, I wonder if this is not something else, like an egg of some kind. Has anyone ever seen these hanging out but not moving? I sat for literally 60 seconds , very still with scope, watching 3 of these spots not move at all, whatsoever. They do look the right size and shape though, any thoughts? My brain is fried. Also, no damage to plants...as of yet. Do I just happen to happen to have some things on my leaves that look a lot like russets, but are actually just dust or something, thrip eggs, I dunno??..

Big question is do they lay idle, or are they always moving?

I did a Green Cleaner (thx WhoDat) spray just for the heck of it, and pitched the Slymer cut they may have come in on.

 

[king oscar]

If they are white maggot looking things, tapered like an ice cream cone they're probably dead russets

 

[D3pthCharg3]

Thanks for the answer. The confusing thing is I hadn't yet done a spray to kill them. That was my first time seeing that , so I sprayed after. This is not an argument of the above post, but I must have seen 50 of the little spots pre-spray, and not one moved at all. How did they die? Are they eggs? Am I going a little nuts? They're so small I really can't get a positive ID: head, legs, etc.


I did all the right things
*Quarantine for 3+weeks of rooted clone
*isolation once introduced to veg for 10 day+
*no other plant introductions to the garden
*no issues in the garden of the "cut benefactor" or the mother it came from.

....as Dad says "Time will tell".

 

[truck]

just went through a battle with these bastards. I thought i was f'd up the a. Twice a week treatments with ORGANOCIDE started at 1/4 strength and worked up to full strength concentration as i progressed seeing my plants could handle an increase in strength and were getting healthier. After reaching the full strength i backed down to 1/3 strength as it just a convenient measurement and backed all the way down to 1/8 strength for continued weekly or bi weekly applications to maintain pressure and control over the populations. I can use 1/3 strength on clones as well without hurting them. I have also used 1tsp organocide, 1tsp age old Calibur, 1tsp age old fish and seaweed, 1/4tsp epsom salt per gallon of water. This seems to keep everything down and the plants happy as a maintenance spray. Jeorge Cervantes swears by AACT foliar applications to keep them under control. Once you have these bastards, they are a part of your environment, weekly sprays will be required, even if you slash and burn your crop, they live in the environment you will most likely track them back into your room some how. Best to learn how to keep them down and get foliar spraying down. Studies also show plants can't reach their maximum production without foliar application. Organic and clean but spraying is a must when mites are involved. I'm testing out some plant washes to see what will work best to remove the build up of oils so it doesn't mess with the extractions from trim. which is why i only use neem in veg now.

 

[D3pthCharg3]

well, I just saw one wiggling, so I am pretty sure I have them. Albeit a beginning infestation, as I don't have any plant damage yet. I guess I was "lucky" to spot the mites before the damage. It's still actually hard for me to find any to scope still, but I imagine that will quickly change. I will be 120 degree heat treating tonight.

If anyone has any HEAT TREATMENT recommendations/advice/results I'd love to hear them.