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Hemp Russet Mites!! Help?

Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
...but mind the 7 week residual. Don't trust labels, do research, find studies done on the products from sources not in their closed loop.
 

CHEFfy

Member
Indeed. Take cuttings, tear down and sanitize everything, treat with forbid and you should be good to go. New mothers etc... Should give you a full 10+ weeks to allow residuals to dissipate completely.
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
germination rates are good after that treatment?

I posted on Jorge Cervantes forum with this question. Jorge replied that NO bugs can overwinter in seed. He thinks even soaking in water would kill a dormant mite . I felt way better after hearing this from the man !
 

Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
germination rates are good after that treatment?

I've never done it, just what I was told. I would imagine they would be though, seeds are pretty versatile vehicles of life. Probably would be best to do a test sample first.

Eggs obviously won't be "in" the seeds, but attached to the outside. I imagine you would have to have a serious infestation for that to occur as well. I have often wondered if storing the seeds in a -10f freezer would kill the eggs over time or not. A constant temp that low would be a different environment then scattered nights of freezing temps outside. I have never seen any absolutely undeniable evidence of eggs wintering over on seeds but where I live spider mites are native now. They certainly seem to last the winters here but it's really not that cold, rarely snows here in the winter.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
picture.php


russets.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
OG biowar - Get you a few pieces of pvc and make a giant humidity dome to put over your plants that you want to keep. Spay the shit out of um with og biowar for a few days. Should do the trick.
I wonder if u mixed the met52 with the ogbiowar if that would have any negative or canceling effects?
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
Indeed. Take cuttings, tear down and sanitize everything, treat with forbid and you should be good to go. New mothers etc... Should give you a full 10+ weeks to allow residuals to dissipate completely.

I have heard / read that forbid alone won't do it, but avid will ? I ordered nuke em from a store that my buddy works at. ....hasn't come in yet so I have been thinking about one of these two nasty's. I am harvesting the infested flower crop now, I left them completely untreated. However my bloom tent is in the same room as my veg cabs , so contamination is likely. I HAVE been treating the veg plants for nearly the entire 2 months that the current flower crop has been going for. I have used in rotation; spinosad, and a mix (that I got from avinash miles) of 91percent ISO mixed with neem and Dr. Bombers, also used green cleaner and recently aa depot product called "eco smart" its a mix of rosemary and other oils, smells alot like sns 217. I also soil drenched yesterday with sns 203. I alternate water sprays every other day wiith the mixs. So they get sprayed everyday . I also clean the veg cabs every or every other day. I am trying to hit them super hard now through harvest so I can hopefully flip a clean crop. I am planning to use a pylon bomb (maube twice)in addition to bleaching the tent at least twice, plus spraying it down with a miteicide. Sketched... . my boy that works at the grow store and has been growing for easy 20 years says he doesn't know of anyone that has ever totally got rid of mimites fuck !:shucks::shucks:
 

CHEFfy

Member
Honestly, forbid did the trick for me. I was very thorough in getting the stuff everywhere though (and stayed out for a couple days while the cuttings were rooting). Like I said, started over with new moms etc... That all being said, never taking in cuts from outside sources again. Popping seeds and current mothers from now on for Cheffy.
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
Regardless the techniques, (some bettr than others...) the golden rule of 3 times every three days along with wetting agent is key.

this being said, once one is awakened to the existence of sutch a fucking coriace organism, the simple Blow up camera inspection of new commers, systematic abamectin treatment while baby in quarantine, and Azadirachtin upkeep in early vegetative stage will WITHOUT THE SHADOW OF A DOUBT! rid you of these pesky, insignificant fucktards as to never have them again if you do not go party in dirty people s gardens or roll in a fucking pile of infected Cyclamen, or a truckload of Romanian wheat.
blessed

Ises and Blessings
jf
Three times every 3 days .... So do you mean you apply the avid ,let it dry , then repeat 2 more times in the SAME day , then repeat 3 days later , and again 3 more days later ?
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
Honestly, forbid did the trick for me. I was very thorough in getting the stuff everywhere though (and stayed out for a couple days while the cuttings were rooting). Like I said, started over with new moms etc... That all being said, never taking in cuts from outside sources again. Popping seeds and current mothers from now on for Cheffy.

Thanks for all the help and input chef. I don't take cuts, I did aquire my mother's many years ago via clone... But never had problems til recent, long after getting cuts that I was certain were clean. I produce tons of seeds so I got that covered. However I have purchased seeds that could have come from those seed factories in Spain , and popped many before I was aware of these lil a holes. From now on I guess I will be sterilizing all seeds prior to germination. Did you bomb your room at all ? I would think these things could get everywhere, ...carpet , walls ,etc. Seems a few other approaches would be necessary to keep them from coming back....not just preventatives.
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
I am wondering if the sns 203 (which was pretty old) made my leaves curl. Today they are super tacoed ... I don't think after all this spraying , they would suddenly revolt and uprise with a massive all out attack. I didnt think they had much of population left after 2 months of sprays.
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran

I have read this and many other threads including the broad mites ones , several times now. What exactly is the defining difference in the damage caused by each, and does it matter ? It seems like it might. No pun intended... As certain treatments are effective for one and not the other and vice versa
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I have had broads in the past, and have russets in my veg room right now. Damage is quite similar, as is treatment.

i c an only say for sure that i've had hemp russets not braods, bt the russets can give the plant a brownish look when they take over, broads don't (fromwhat i've seen from pics of peoplles broad infestations).
aside from that the damage looks all very very similar.
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
That exactly what I was thinking Mr. Miles. Didn't realize you are now a moderator. Nobody messes with the avi
 

panick503

Member
i c an only say for sure that i've had hemp russets not braods, bt the russets can give the plant a brownish look when they take over, broads don't (fromwhat i've seen from pics of peoplles broad infestations).
aside from that the damage looks all very very similar.

A very true observation. Russets are also visible to the eye when you have a bad infestation. Look like spots of saw dust. The leaves hook and curl in a very similar fashion. The only difference I can think of off hand as far as treatment is that russet mites are vulnerable to sulfur, and broad mites arent
 

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