Has short-term toxicity been studied? It's been a while since I researched CO2 fumigation on live plants and didn't save references. 60% CO2 did not harm strawberry plants for at least 24 hours.
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Hemp Russet Mites!! Help?
- Thread starter Treetroit City
- Start date
Has short-term toxicity been studied? It's been a while since I researched CO2 fumigation on live plants and didn't save references. 60% CO2 did not harm strawberry plants for at least 24 hours.
Lol I said "I think" as a disclaimer hehehe. It's been a long time for myself, havnt really done too much inside gardening last five years. But I remember talking with a buddy who owns a shop where I lived. He told me to set the regulator to 10k ppm. Past that can kill them. Once again though, idk for certain. I think that was a long term thing to help battle spider mites as part of a regiment. Maybe I was confused and 10k ppm can harm humans and we shouldn't be working in a garden with those levels, that may have been it.
I also do remember friends saying they would just open the tank all the way over night. Your probably right about short term and long term. I'm starting to think the 10k ppm was for long term and for human presence.
*edit* Osha permissible entry levels are currently 5k ppm, they used to be 10k ppm. Exposure to 100k ppm can render a human unconscious in minutes. Maybe a good thunk to keep in mind if one was to go that limit which is only 10%. Hold your breath to go turn on the fans.
Does anyone have any solid idea what the temps the hrm and their eggs can winter down too? I'm wondering if the beans sit for a long time at -10 to -30F that might be enough to kill em.
I also do remember friends saying they would just open the tank all the way over night. Your probably right about short term and long term. I'm starting to think the 10k ppm was for long term and for human presence.
*edit* Osha permissible entry levels are currently 5k ppm, they used to be 10k ppm. Exposure to 100k ppm can render a human unconscious in minutes. Maybe a good thunk to keep in mind if one was to go that limit which is only 10%. Hold your breath to go turn on the fans.
Does anyone have any solid idea what the temps the hrm and their eggs can winter down too? I'm wondering if the beans sit for a long time at -10 to -30F that might be enough to kill em.
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RedBeardy5
Active member
I have never heard of the co2 method really wiping these guys out. Has anyone had a positive experience with co2. Seems like a good way without using chemicals.
The Journal of Industrial Hemp article says
Hillig (unpublished data, 1994) also killed A. cannabicola with CO2 by enclosing potted plants in large plastic bags and filling the bags with CO2 for 2 hours.
I know I've seen something published somewhere though, in more detail. Baking soda and acid isn't expensive, but many growers would or should prefer to start over, so, most positive experience will be with that.
Lol starting over isn't an option for outdoor or light dep. Neither is co2. We get natural heat treatments around here in the summer time hehehe! Outdoor sucks too cause the tiny critters piggy back in on the bigger critters. I swear the moths taking naps on the underside of leaves is to blame for a lot.
fivethreeoh
Member
subbed into this thread I just kicked the shit out of them with nukem..
Another thing to try is take-down garden spray. Kills eggs, and safe late in to flower.
Any negative reaction from the plants, from the nukem?
My burnt a little and I could smell the citric acid for sure. My raspberries got spider mites and I sprayed em with the left over solution and they burnt Hella bad!
Take down can get expensive. Forbid and avid used early enough is the best. After flowering begins, azatrol or azamax or a similar product works great. Sulfur works great too but careful when applying that in combination with oils, wait a week before of after the sulfur to apply oils. Organacide helps slow em down. A local grow shop sells this crazy concauction(sp?) Of herbs and oils that fucks em up bad and is totally organic and the guy says you can safely drink it.
Take down can get expensive. Forbid and avid used early enough is the best. After flowering begins, azatrol or azamax or a similar product works great. Sulfur works great too but careful when applying that in combination with oils, wait a week before of after the sulfur to apply oils. Organacide helps slow em down. A local grow shop sells this crazy concauction(sp?) Of herbs and oils that fucks em up bad and is totally organic and the guy says you can safely drink it.
fivethreeoh
Member
some burning but they are coming back..
JayTrinity
Member
hi guys, Im wanting to stay organic and there Russet mites inside the small buds now. (and millions of dead ones)
Can I just spray the hell out of them with nukem, then azomax and it keeps them in check with enough time to flower and finish?
I don't expect 100% eradicate them but just keep them down?
And its possible to finish out?
I have a paint sprayer and a 15 gallon tank of azomax.
But azomax really kills the adults yes then they hatch again?
Why do people say azomax does not work?
Im told they hatch every 2 days
Can I just spray the hell out of them with nukem, then azomax and it keeps them in check with enough time to flower and finish?
I don't expect 100% eradicate them but just keep them down?
And its possible to finish out?
I have a paint sprayer and a 15 gallon tank of azomax.
But azomax really kills the adults yes then they hatch again?
Why do people say azomax does not work?
Im told they hatch every 2 days
Neem concentrates will slow em down but not eradicate them completely. A proper ipm is needed don't spray the same thing twice. Multiple people say spinosad kills them on contact but idk for sure cause I use spinosad in my regiment.
Indoor or outdoor and how deep into flower?
Indoor or outdoor and how deep into flower?
Azamax is not a contact killer, so it can take several generations to start seeing the effects
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life on seed
life on seed
really would like more info on how long these lil a holes can live in seeds ? like if I buy a pack from a breeder that had HRM or broads how long should I wait to germinate , just to be sure any seed hitchhikers are dead ? Are we all opening ourselves up to this pest by buying seeds ? It would seem unlikely that anyone growing on the scale that breeding requires would have zero bugs. Input PLEASE ?!
life on seed
really would like more info on how long these lil a holes can live in seeds ? like if I buy a pack from a breeder that had HRM or broads how long should I wait to germinate , just to be sure any seed hitchhikers are dead ? Are we all opening ourselves up to this pest by buying seeds ? It would seem unlikely that anyone growing on the scale that breeding requires would have zero bugs. Input PLEASE ?!
wondering how to treat the rest of the house ? if my garden (tent in bedroom ) has the hrm or broads , arent they likely in the carpet and stuff ? just killing them on plants and sanitizing the tent will likely not get them all, I will do a few bombs too , but really dont want them to come back after ! anyone whos beat em please help
shit
i can't remember WHERE but somewhere (i think on ICmag, but, again, can't be sure) i read about sterilizing seeds before germination to be sure you have removed any risk of HMR's or Broads.... iirc they used hydrogen peroxide.....
here is something: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=205466
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3% h2o2 at 140F for 30 minutes is what I was told once.
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