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Help with pink kush

Mattbho

Active member
Any pink kush growers out there ??

There is5 plants in a 3/4 full 20gal soft pot blumat drippers x5 occasionally add boogie brew (carbs /seaweed/kelp). Under 1/2 of 8× 3950 cree cob leds @550w

my clones are kept too cool plus p.o.s. mars light for veg (too red)and most show mag deficiency until veggies out for a bit in correct conditions .

The old school pink can be such a finicky bitch . But I absolutely love me some pure pink kush . Not this watered down crap that's around nowadays . The greasy stinky candy tasting dripping resin ring knock your socks off pink kush. Been trying to tame this gal for a while using various methods. I always get bomb smoke but I know she can yeild better .
She HATES wet feet and won't tolerate that basically shuts down if overwatered.

I'm asking for experienced advice to get the most out of this cultivar. Came from old pink kush seeds I saved from a seeded batch of buds . She almost always has that overfed over watered look to her even as a young.


Pink on left
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​​ this would be a flower not under the light decent shape maybe a tad mag hungry?
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​​
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​​​and heres one closer to the light
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​​the yellowing is starting to show. I have given them half dose b 1 and a pinch of Epsom like maybe a decent steak seasoning pinch in a gallon of water . Also topdressed with my regular powerbloom Gaia Power Bloom Contains:BoneMeal, Mineralized Phosphate, Fishbone Meal, Rock Phosphate, Mined Potassium Sulphate, Glacial Rock Dust, Insect Frass, Feather Meal, Basalt Rock Dust, Kelp Meal, Humic Acid, Gypsum, Greensand, Blood Meal 2-8-4.
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​ cookies & cream on the right living life as always
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Mattbho

Active member
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is calcium being locked out due to too much magnesium. Is this just par for 6 weeks i usually taker her 11 to 12 weeks
 

Mattbho

Active member
This being an organic run i know it is what it is but I would like recommendations so I can ammend the soil for next run. If Noone has any ideas I think I will try loading up the soil with gypsum/ oyster shell flour hopefully its not too much calcium. Can u really have too much available calcium?
20210422_162427.jpg

this is the 3rd or 4th run of Frank's soil not against a soil test but almost all the other cultivars are thriving .
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here's a shot of the flower that stretched above the light . Am I just giving too much light. Could it iron locked out of the flowers that are being pushed.
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slight taco from being up in the heat but def no yellowing . Looks like too much nitrogen if anything
 

Mattbho

Active member
This is the pink and c & c day of flip. Those fuckers were healthy . Then a couple weeks later
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GoatCheese

Active member
Veteran
That yellowing is caused by cob light damage. You’re running your cobs abit too hot / you have them too close to the plants and so the leaves get dehydrated.

I also have Cree CXB3590s and my plants looked similar to your PK till i figured how to dial in my lights to suit my grow tent. I have three of those cobs running about 30 watts/ per cob about 65cm above canopy and i can’t raise the light any higher any more so i could use more watts out of the cobs.

Plants can handle led/cob radiation differently, some are more sensitive to it. Also plants in coco/hydro do better under modern leds/cobs cause there is more moisture in the plant’s tissue than when grown in soil. Meaning you can run your leds/cobs with more watts if you grow in coco/hydro compared to plants growing in soil.
..and plants in soil start to suffer quite fast when the soil gets too dry and the lights are running too hot. So try to get the watering right also

Yes plants need more calmag under modern leds but your problem is that you’re running your cobs abit too hot.
 

Tynehead Tom

Well-known member
I have no experience with the light being used but to me it looks like they are hungry and I would guess that the soil is locking up. I didn't notice it mentioned but have you done a PH slurry of the affected plant and the non affected plant(s) ?
I have read many times that LED grown plants can have higher nutrient requirements and this has led many a grower into the adventure of dialing in that strain under the LED conditions.
I would not apply a cal mag solution if trying to boost calcium.
Real deal pink kush can be a heavy feeder and this can cause issues for some growers as they try and remedy things.
I would mix 2.5 to 3mls of Granulated Gypsum per gallon of water or nutrient.... with every application.
Top dress the affected plant with 4 or 5 tablespoons of granulated gypsum right away and water in.
Gypsum is two forms of calcium and sulphur. It will not change PH but will assist the soil in holding the desired PH and will bind up excess salts so that they no longer cause lockout.
It will not harm your plants either as far as burn or other negatives.

you will know pretty quick if it is the lights or the soil.
I have light sensitive plants and they don't fade out like a cal/mag deficiency.

I've been in this situation many times running a wide variety of genetics in every grow and some plants just need a little figuring out.
Learning to add Gypsum to my gardening was a game changer that I picked up from members threads like jidoka and got a lot of helping refining my methods from Rykus, who runs the real Pink Kush in very large commercial scale, but highly refined, grow rooms and methods.
 

GoatCheese

Active member
Veteran
From my experience, plants don’t need a heavier NPK feed under modern leds/cobs, just more calmag and/or epsom salts. I feed my plants just the same under my Cree cobs as i did when i had a HPS in my bloom tent.
I think people have wrongly been thinking the led radiation yellowing is caused by lack of Nitrogen but it’s not, it’s caused by dehydration cause the lights are too close to the plants/ the lights are running too hot.
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
GoatCheese can you tell us more about how much more cal mag or epsom salts they need? I am trying to keep plants happy but the lights always win so far.
Also, my plants seem to eed more of the other nutes as well, not just cal mag. I am saying that because I keep a pretty good and steady VPD and soil humidity and they still look a bit underfed even if I am feeding 150 to 200% doses of nutes. Aside from the extra cal mag I am always feeding and the extra ammendaments I have put in the soil.
 

GoatCheese

Active member
Veteran
GoatCheese can you tell us more about how much more cal mag or epsom salts they need? I am trying to keep plants happy but the lights always win so far.
Also, my plants seem to eed more of the other nutes as well, not just cal mag. I am saying that because I keep a pretty good and steady VPD and soil humidity and they still look a bit underfed even if I am feeding 150 to 200% doses of nutes. Aside from the extra cal mag I am always feeding and the extra ammendaments I have put in the soil.

Well, i use 0,5ml/L of Canna calmag with every feed (same amount for soil grows and coco) and some epsom salts once in about two weeks. I usually grow in soil and i’m not so experienced with coco growing but i have one coco-plant blooming in my tent atm. along with plants in potting soil.

Imo, the yellowing under modern white leds it's not a NPK nutrient deficiancy issue, i give my plants exactly the same amount of BioBizz Grow and Bloom as i did when i was using a HPS light. The only thing i have added to my feed is Calmag and epsoms, nothing more.

As i said, the yellowing is caused by dehydration under intense led/cob radiation, so it is also related to temperature/humidity levels in your grow area, and so there isn’t a fixed amount of calmag that will sort the yellowing issue. And like i said plants in soil will suffer noticeably easier than plants grown in coco/hydro because there’s naturally more moisture in the plant tissue in hydro grown plants.

.. some plants suffer easier under leds than others. My CBD Critical Cure can take it fairly well while my UK Cheese /Deep Chunk is at the other end of it, that plant doesn’t like low air humidity under HPS either.

My soil plants under Cree cobs look worse during winter cause the air is more dry than during summer, so i have to dim the lights down abit during winter for this reason or the leaves look even worse. Few months ago (winter) i had to stay under 30 watts/per cob at about 60-65cm above canopy but now when it’s spring time i can use little over 30 watts per cob at the same distance to canopy.

So it is abit complicated issue and changes thru out the year depending where you live and also your growing style. I live in N Europe and winters are quite problematic.


In short, the yellowing is related to:

- Humidity/temperature in your grow area
- The particular strain you’re growing
- Growing style soil vs hydro
- Distance between lights and the canopy --- Amount of watts out of the lights you’re using

..apparently even the Kelvin value of your grow lights has an effect. I have read that lower K level (more red) dehydrates the plant tissue easier than higher K levels = 2800K vs 4000K ...because of the wave lengths of these photons. Photons of higher K level will lose some of their radiation energy easier to the atmospheric gasses (air in your grow room) than the more Red photons.

I’m also fairly new to modern cobs/leds so i’m still learning. I’ve had my cobs just under a year now and i put few Samsung LM301H strip-set together few weeks ago.
So everyone has to dial in their cobs/leds to suit their particular grow area/environmental factors.
 

Mattbho

Active member
Cobs are definitely a different beast. These are 3000k. I've been using these for a few years and am finally learning . My 1st few grows I gave way too much power the plants barely stretched and were light stressed . Now I start at 50% go to 100 and start cutting back the light the last 2 weeks . It just makes tastier flowers.

Personally I believe it is a few things . This is organic super soil with plenty or soil. The plants will sway the pH and decide what it wants to eat .

Whomever said radiation , that makes sense. its a fact if the lights were dimmed 25% I wouldn't see the early yellowing . They could be somewhat root bound because I did veg them for several weeks trying to fill the canopy. I usually just let them get happy and flip the lights.

The barneys pink is the watered down pk version . You can find a close cultivar but its always inflated commercialized imo . I believe that's why Reefer man crossed it. increase yeild, make it easier to grow and shave off some flowering time . I wish he would chime in , he knows this plant front wards and backwards I imagine . I didn't buy the seeds from him and don't really think a pm is appropriate.

I guess I was hoping being the most growbn plant in bc for several years a pink expert would chime in and say add xx . :peacock:

Thank you everyone for your input and time
 

tobedetermined

Well-known member
Premium user
ICMag Donor
I have a 10 pack of his Ultimate PK fems that I bought from Seedbay. Mid-summer I hope to get around to do a Barney's vs Ultimate side by side. The Barney's I grew turned out very well & we smoke it nightly. It is great for my pain & I really like the taste. I tried the LP offerings & while they were all punchy, they were all too dry & certainly lacking in taste when compared to my grow. Reefer does say his is far better but I won't know until the late fall.
 

Tynehead Tom

Well-known member
From my experience, plants don’t need a heavier NPK feed under modern leds/cobs, just more calmag and/or epsom salts. I feed my plants just the same under my Cree cobs as i did when i had a HPS in my bloom tent.
I think people have wrongly been thinking the led radiation yellowing is caused by lack of Nitrogen but it’s not, it’s caused by dehydration cause the lights are too close to the plants/ the lights are running too hot.

if it is light burn from the LED , why is it not happening to both plants under the same light?
I have a bottle of cal/mag...... I've never even opened it/
Cal/Mag gets misused all the time. Not saying that directed at you but still.
I grow in soilless mix and full organic water only.... with gypsum as the only additive from start to harvest(in organic)
epsom and cal/mag together are boosting magnesium on both counts but why are you needing to do this?
My bet is that if the base feed has sufficient magnesium it is only calcium and sulphur that "should" need to be replenished regularly for "most" cannabis.
I am running rooms with a 110 plant count and have close to 20 strains all under the same conditions.
Light burned plants develop burnt edges or between the veins that brown off if the leaf is left on the plant.
Mobile yellow blotches with fading between the veins ...... Something is preventing the plant from accessing calcium..... too much magnesium? or not enough calcium.?
I'll politely suggest the latter.
 

GoatCheese

Active member
Veteran
if it is light burn from the LED , why is it not happening to both plants under the same light?
I have a bottle of cal/mag...... I've never even opened it/
Cal/Mag gets misused all the time. Not saying that directed at you but still.
I grow in soilless mix and full organic water only.... with gypsum as the only additive from start to harvest(in organic)
epsom and cal/mag together are boosting magnesium on both counts but why are you needing to do this?
My bet is that if the base feed has sufficient magnesium it is only calcium and sulphur that "should" need to be replenished regularly for "most" cannabis.
I am running rooms with a 110 plant count and have close to 20 strains all under the same conditions.
Light burned plants develop burnt edges or between the veins that brown off if the leaf is left on the plant.
Mobile yellow blotches with fading between the veins ...... Something is preventing the plant from accessing calcium..... too much magnesium? or not enough calcium.?
I'll politely suggest the latter.

You use the word “light burn” while i used the word “dehydrated”. And i already went into the factors that play part in grow areas that cause the leaves to dehydrate under modern leds. Read my earlier post again, if you’re interested.

The part of the plant in the corner is greener cause it’s not directly under the light. The leaves in post #4 have clear signs of dehydration caused by leds; Dehydrated, dry looking – lost their waxy shine, yellowing. Google “Led light bleaching/damage on cannabis” and you will find similar photos. My plants looked the same when i ran my lights with too much wattage/too close to the plants, so i know personally why they look like that.

Individual plants handle led/cob radiation differently as i stated in my earlier post. Soil getting too dry worsens the symptoms.

The parts of the plant(s) that are not too close to the light are clearly dark green so they are not under fed, and so it is not a NPK nutrient deficiency. Plants grown under modern leds do not need stronger NPK feed compared to HPS, as i have already stated.
Peace
 

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