What's new
  • As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.

HELP!!!! WHO'LL PLAY "NAME THAT DEFICIENCY"????

gonejah17

Member
Well lets get to it, got some flowering plants that are showing me yellow.

These plants have been through alot and I didnt expect too much but the yellowing tips are strange. At first I had my light (400W) like 3 inches away from these tops (Temps dont get above 75, moved it up a little now), so I thought it might be light bleaching?? But ppl are telling me probably not so I'm thinking maybe Mag def????


I flushed them this last week with some 6.5 R/O w low dose epsom salt (1/2 tspn per gallon), been giving them MG Water Soluble all Purpose Plant food as a veg nute at a LOW dose, and Im gonna start them on FF BIg Bloom this next watering.


Then I have this veg plant thats showing me some shit too, maybe calcium???



I was away from these plants for a little over a month, not AWAY but so busy that I was treating them like shit, and my digital ph pen isnt too reliable (I HATE THESE MIDRANGE DIGITAL PH METERS!!!!! Saving up for a truncheon, in the meantime using the little liquid vial test ciz I know it works.) so it might be caused by a ph swing as well.

They are in FFOF with 30% perlite

Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially for the flowering plants that yellowing is crazy!!!!


{EDIT} ANOTHER PIC OF THE YELLOWING TIPS

 
Last edited:

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
Your ph is out and you have a few issues. Spots are cal def, yellowing leaves with green veins is mag def. Yellowish scald burns are from your light. What is your idea of a low dose of MG? How often do you feed it?

Are you checking runoff ph? Adjusting nutes to 6.5 is wrong if your soil is out. Example, soil is 5.6, you need to adjust ferts to 7 to counteract and even out at 6.3 middle of the ideal range. I have a cheap ($70) Milwaukee ph pen and it works great, providing I calibrate every two weeks. I got lazy once and it was out .9 and my plants sure took the hit because of it.

One more thing, 3" is insanely close for a 400 w light and if anyone tells you different, walk away from them really fast. Just because the light is air cooled and you don't feel heat, doesn't mean it can't damage your plants. Radiant energy from the light will also burn a plant, kinda like sunburn. This is different than heat. Raise the light to at least 12" if air cooled.

The plants will green up if you correct the problems, but the spots and scalds are here to stay.
 

Weedhound

Grower
ICMag Donor
I'm with Pete here.....a lot of that is radiant burn but I'm not sure about the defs....not a soil person.
 

DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
i see mag def, calcium def, nitro def, maybe even Mo/iron def...
also a tad of burning, ironicly.
increase your useage of cal-mag/sensical
id also upp your NPK amounts, just a tad.
 

gonejah17

Member
HeadyPete said:
Your ph is out and you have a few issues. Spots are cal def, yellowing leaves with green veins is mag def. Yellowish scald burns are from your light. What is your idea of a low dose of MG? How often do you feed it?

Are you checking runoff ph? Adjusting nutes to 6.5 is wrong if your soil is out. Example, soil is 5.6, you need to adjust ferts to 7 to counteract and even out at 6.3 middle of the ideal range. I have a cheap ($70) Milwaukee ph pen and it works great, providing I calibrate every two weeks. I got lazy once and it was out .9 and my plants sure took the hit because of it.

One more thing, 3" is insanely close for a 400 w light and if anyone tells you different, walk away from them really fast. Just because the light is air cooled and you don't feel heat, doesn't mean it can't damage your plants. Radiant energy from the light will also burn a plant, kinda like sunburn. This is different than heat. Raise the light to at least 12" if air cooled.

The plants will green up if you correct the problems, but the spots and scalds are here to stay.


Hey man thanks SOOO much!!! Lol yeah I thought maybe the light was too close and might be bleaching the plants, lmao 3" i guess is crazy close. This is my first time doing this and I thought I saw ppls lights growing into the HID's before but I know Ive always read to keep them like 16" away.

I got this light table somewhere and it kinda bent my mind towards the closer the better lol but I guess thats not always the case. Thanks again

AS far as the deficiencies I need to get some LK or some Cal Mag, yeah?? I hear maybe dolomite lime?? Thanks for all the help man Im open to all input.

Yeah I had a milwakee but it went south on me, they gave it to me with a loose O ring supposedly and some water got in it, as far as that goes I have a question, I have 4.0 and 7.0 buffer solution, on my new pen if I calibrate it to the 7.0 and then test it on the 4.0 it doesnt read 4.0 lol

On my one Hannah I can calibrate it to 4.0 and 7.0 but its a grocheck with two probes and its meant to be wall mounted so its a kindof a hassle to carry around.

once again all help is GRETLY appreciated. +rep

PS thanks for the runoff tips I didnt really realize that abot buffering, noob mistake. And do you think 9" is too close for the light???

{EDIT} it wont let me rep????
 
Last edited:

gonejah17

Member
DIGITALHIPPY said:
i see mag def, calcium def, nitro def, maybe even Mo/iron def...
also a tad of burning, ironicly.
increase your useage of cal-mag/sensical
id also upp your NPK amounts, just a tad.

thanks man, Ill update w my improvements
 

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
You can put the light as close as possible without burning. Start 12" and observe your plants. Move closer by 1 inch increments until you see the plants no likey....plants may grow into HIDs but they are also getting burnt.

Use the CalMag, dolomite is waaaayyyy to slow acting, it's meant to be used in soil and cooked for awhile.

You must confirm your ph is correct before adding anything. If the ph is out, additions will not help and just lend to an overfert situation.

Don't worry about the 4.0 calibration, just do the 7. You are never gonna get near 4, hopefully :D
 
G

Guest

A good way to judge how close to place your light is hold your hand at the top of your plant. If it's too hot for your hand after a bit, it's too hot for your plants.
 

gonejah17

Member
thanks for the help guys.

Got lots of problems with the plants, light bleach, cal and mag, and ph . . . Ill post more pics when they're fixed but heres one of the sadhus thats damaged



I can have my hand on the tube for as long as I want without burning my hand, the temp RIGHT under the hottest point is like 80 . . . . This is because the room the cab is in is not heated so ambient temps are low.

This is why I had the bulb so close but I wasnt thinking about bleaching.

Its better a little further away anyway because it widens the lights footprint.

Thanks IC for all the help, like I said more pics when they're all nice and pretty - but heres the canopy as is

 

DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
there actualy looking pritty good, how many days in again?
might want to add a few dyas/week to the end to help them mature better.

id still up your cal-mag a tad more, i c some Cal spotting.

also if your past week 5 go easy on nitrogen and pick the yellow leafs when they get brown/limp they actualy get to a point where they do a pre-disconnect from the stem and if u give a slight tug they pop-off real EZ..

id get some AN big-bud as it has alot of different forms of mag. looks like your at week 4 or 5...
nice and bushy though,
 
Top