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help! organic, ph..

Help me please. im sorry i dont have pics, but this is very similar.
nitrogen_potassiumlockout_PH_related.jpg


some spotting, some leaf tips burning, alot of yellowing, with green in the veins still mostly lower,
these are Clones in rockwool with roots, put into Roots Organic soil (with a little perlite added)

fed a bit of biobizz grow and supertrhive when transplanted...

I dont think i have a nitrogen Deficiency... i think i have a lockout issue.

The ph of the soil is almost 7.5, and we used tapwater(ph around 7) when transplanted..

When growing organically, do i need to worry so much about the ph?

Tell me what i can add to the water to help bring the soils ph down some?

Thanks for reading.
 

AndreNicky

Member
Ph always matters, your gonna wanna get the Ph of your soil down to 6.3-6.8 and when u feed the water should be the same PH
 
ok, so start feeding a ph balanced solution, and water with ph adjusted water?
now what is a good way to balance the water? vinegar? lemon juice?

i read that nitrogen readily uptakes from 5-8ph ranges. mine is still within that i would think. could these symptoms be from when they were in the rockwool? How long does a deficiency take to go away??
 

AndreNicky

Member
Maybe nitrogen readily uptakes at 5-8 but the 10 other nutrients don't! Your problem is PH lockout, simple as that. Give the plants a good flush and start feeding with a ph balanced solution, everything should turn around
 
sweet. thanks alot.
ive been waiting it out, until they needed their watering again anyways.. some are still growing great.. others have lost most major fan leaves and are barely producing growth.

ill feed with a little extra distilled water today, when the lights come back on. how do i lower the ph of it without chemicals?
 
Around a tablespoon vinegar to a gallon of water seem right?


should i need to in the future, what can be used to raise my pH? or make it more basic.. ?
 

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
A good organic soil has humates in it. This not only lets a plant feed outside the normal PH range but it will also allow the uptake of cations and compounds of cations that it would normally not be able too. This is the reason organic growers never have to fuck with PH...... Now, these plants are yellowin from the bottom up. Which tells ya they are/were starving. If this were a ph issue they'd be yellow with spots everywhere. I think you jus waited too long to transplant, or they took too long to make roots. It shouldn't take no time for them to bounce back all on their own...... Don't worry about the PH, Roots Organic is good soil and will take care of the PH naturally. You jus need ta give em time. What's been very badly damaged will prolly not come back to being nice an green again, but the plant will still thrive with new growth..... Good luck! BC
 

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
Nope, as long as there are humates in the soil it will be buffered. I haven't PHed anything fer years. You can do a search on organics and ph to learn more. The "organics for beginners" thread has some good info, but I know there is a specific thread on jus that. Knowledge is power my friend! later, BC
 

stihgnobevoli

Active member
Veteran
i grow in organic. my ph stopped being even about the second time i reused my soil. i strted seeing what the OP shows in his pics. took e a while to figure it out but my ph was off and lockout was occuring. i added more lime to my soil and did a water with some wayer i dissolved a tablespoon of lime in. they turned around in about 3 days. now i got a plant i started in the old soil before i limed it. halfway through flower and its showing that. it started as a nitrogen def, then turned into mag def, now showing phos and potassuium def. i forgot to add lime last water so i hope they can ride out a couple more days till the pot dries out. i dont wanna make it worse by overwatering.
 

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
If yer growing organic and reuse yer soil you should be adding 20% wormcastings back to the soil every time to replenish the microherd and the humates. Yul have no problems if ya do. This is the basics of what makes organics work..... Otherwise you could jus use plain ol petemoss, jus add lime...... Roots Organic soil is the cats ass fera premixed soil. Prolly some of the best you could buy, premixed. I'm sure once these plants start diggin in they'll snap right out of it. It's only been 4-5 days. Lets not ferget these are turning yellow with spots from the bottom up. They are/were starving. If it were a ph issue they would be yellow with necro spots everywhere, not jus the bottom. Let the fresh soil do it's thing, yul be fine. :2cents::2cents: BC
 
UPDATE> 2 are growing like hell with little to no yellowing/ spots,
2 are growing good with little yellowing/ spots
2 are yellowing and not really growing as vigorous.
2 have nothing but yellow/ crispy, dead fan leaves

Im supposed to have 2 strains here, maybe thats why half seem to be doing worse?.

ive noticed the bad ones have new growth that is yellowing between the veins, some edge burning, and some edge curling.. both up and the downward curled leaf.


Im really starting to think they have an imbalance somewhere, maybe i was overfed at the time i transplanted. i barely gave a 1/2 tsp per gallon of bio-biz bio grow and a drop of superthrive.

was that too much?


i have to water today, and im curious as to if i should put a little food in there or go all water.
 

Rastanfisk

Member
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Manganese gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-4.5
Manganese is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.0-5.6 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a manganese deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Manganese deficiency
Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn., or mix with water and water your plants with it. Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Manganese in them will fix a Manganese deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!) Other nutrients that have Manganese in them are: Manganese chelate, Manganese carbonate, Manganese chloride, Manganese dioxide, Manganese oxide, Manganese sulfate, which are all fast absorption. Garden Manure, Greenssand are both good sources of manganese and are medium/ slow absorption.

Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics,( which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) You need to Flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients. Picture 1 shows a manganese deficiency in flowering. http://www.icmag.com/gallery/data/500/1134manganese-def1.jpg
Soil Ph 6.5-7.0
 

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
hmmm...

hmmm...

I would go with jus plain water. If somethin was fucked up with the soil they would all be showing signs, and getting worse. I really think you jus waited way too long too transplant, and it's jus now catching up. There's no coming back from that.... I would jus like ta add, that soil is PH balanced, it wouldn't really matter anyway. Humates will buffer a PH from 4.0 to 8.0 with no problem. But I know that soil is PH balanced already! Btw, in order to get an accurate ph reading in soil you need a very expensive probe. Paper testers and those probes ya buy at wally world are useless! Testing the run off is very hit and miss too...... About the flushing. If you over feed from bottled nutes you could flush them out, but this soil has amendments in it and can't be flushed out...... I don't think there's much you can do but water em and see what pulls through. Everything they need is there. They shouldn't need ta fed for several weeks. I wish I could tell ya more, but only time will tell. Keep us posted so we can all learn from it. later, BC
 
will do. the biggest healthiest one and the next one down barely seem to be affected. i dont think its the waiting too long to transplant... who knows what it could be..

all i know is the really bad ones have new growth that is burning on the edges.. that doesnt seem to be a transplant issue does it?
 

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
Well, let me ask ya a few things. How big are these plants, how long did it take em ta root, how big are the rockwool cubes they got rooted in, how far/long were the roots stickin out of the cubes, how long were they rooted before they were transplanted, and were they fed anything before they were transplanted, and what did they look like before they were transplanted? BC
 

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