Help me set my first sealed room up

[~Shhh~]

Hi all...

Been away from growing for a while and need some help getting myself back in the drivers seat. Hoping you guys can give me a leg up

I need a recommendation for a good mini split AC unit & dehumidifier - (UK). The space I have is 3.3m x 3.3m x 2.7m(H), ideally this will be filled by 2 NFT trays and 4 x 600w lights.

Having run a few tests in this room, I have noticed that the humidity is far higher in this room than any other in my place. Not sure of the cause, but unfortunately this is all I have to work with in terms of space so I will just have to deal with it somehow! Fingers crossed, the AC unit will draw enough water out of the air. I'm thinking I may need a dehumidifier for the dark period though?

Also looking for some guidance as to how much Co2 I will need for a 2 week veg & 9 week flowering period, really not sure how this is worked out. Will need a controller for the Co2 as well so any help there would also be cool.

Will not have the cash for vented hoods, don't have the space to vent them out either, hence the AC unit, so I'll leave those for another time maybe...

Think that's about it... I have some SSH to fill the trays with, and am anticipating having some nice bud to blaze on with the help of you guys.

So don't be shy n' help out a guy!!!

 

[~Shhh~]

21 views and no replys?

Surely someone has some advice for me... thought that's what this site was all about!

 

[Brazilianfire]

i would go with a 12000BTU mini one a with a dehui mode for at night. as far as how much co2 you need all depends how sealed your room is. you might burn through a few tanks no need for co2 during veg your average air co2 is 300-400ppm thats fine for veg. flower will be 1500 to 1800 to fully saturate the air for nice hard dense huge buds.
good luck

 

[sparkjumper]

I dont do hydro,but still do a lot of what you are trying to do.First I'm assuming you have a sealed room with non-cooled lights.I have an 8 by 8 room with 3 1K HPS and a 12,500 BTU window unit.A dehumidifier is absolutely essential during the lights off hours,not so much with lights on.It normally stays around 50% RH with the air conditioner with lights on anmd thats acceptable.It will rise above 75% RH after the lights go off without a dehumidifier,definately unacceptable.I use a green air cd-6 propane burner and a cap PPM-3 controller.Using a burner or a tank without a controller I found to be a waste of time.And I wasted plenty of it.A controller is the only way not to get co2 fluctuations which totally negate any benefit.A cyclestat timer is a waste.Calculating room size without taking into account number,size and stage of plants is a waste.Only a controller can assure you're getting 1500PPM or so with 200 or less PPM fluctuation.Cyclestat timers and formula's wont give you results

 

[wizberry]

My last room ran 4x 600s and a 400w for mothers/clones, using a 8K btu AC unit, completely sealed setup. A little underpowered, but since CO2 was being used, low 80s F was OK. Dehumidifier is a must during lights out tho. Ran lites at night.

 

[Guest 18340]

A 12000btu mini split will cover you perfectly IF you get a good name brand unit.
Get one that uses inverter technology (just google it). They are extremely efficient.
By design they are very quite.
In the UK you can get a brand (I cant remember the name but with alittle searching you'll find it) that even comes with quik-loc type connections on the line set so you don't even need to have the lines vacuumed.
I can't help you with the co2 cause I'm still learning about that myself, lol.
Goodluck

Oh, get one that has a "dry mode" and is programmable. That way you set it to "cool" during the lights on hrs and "dry mode" during lights off hrs.
On my unit, by default when in dry mode the set temp is 76 degrees. Meaning, when its in dry mode the temp cant be adjusted, its set by the factory to keep the temps at 76 degrees. Which just so happens to be a perfect temp

 

[~Shhh~]

Thanks for the reply's guy!!!

Can you all post your ambient room temps prior to lights on, or your outside temps while lights pls. This will give me a better idea of what your AC's are dealing with

would go with a 12000BTU mini one a with a dehui mode for at night. as far as how much co2 you need all depends how sealed your room is. you might burn through a few tanks no need for co2 during veg your average air co2 is 300-400ppm thats fine for veg. flower will be 1500 to 1800 to fully saturate the air for nice hard dense huge buds.
good luck

Thanks Brazilianfire! I am after the mini split type as you suggest, 12000BTU was what I was thinking from reading here, but there is 1 thread in particular that is pretty in depth regarding calculating AC size (noticed it after I posted my thread yesterday). The OP, I think he's called 00420, when using his calculations I would need a 18000BTU unit if I were to keep the ballasts in the grow room, and 14000BTU without.... I have a room that has a sun facing wall so this has been taken into account... I think the 12000BTU would probably do it, but will probably go for a 140000/16000BTU.

A few tanks of Co2 then, would these be 9kg tanks you are talking about?
Appreciate your post & help mate!

I dont do hydro,but still do a lot of what you are trying to do.First I'm assuming you have a sealed room with non-cooled lights.I have an 8 by 8 room with 3 1K HPS and a 12,500 BTU window unit.A dehumidifier is absolutely essential during the lights off hours,not so much with lights on.It normally stays around 50% RH with the air conditioner with lights on anmd thats acceptable.It will rise above 75% RH after the lights go off without a dehumidifier,definately unacceptable.I use a green air cd-6 propane burner and a cap PPM-3 controller.Using a burner or a tank without a controller I found to be a waste of time.And I wasted plenty of it.A controller is the only way not to get co2 fluctuations which totally negate any benefit.A cyclestat timer is a waste.Calculating room size without taking into account number,size and stage of plants is a waste.Only a controller can assure you're getting 1500PPM or so with 200 or less PPM fluctuation.Cyclestat timers and formula's wont give you results

Cheers sparkjumper,

Your correct, in that I don't have aircooled lights. I inted to use a Co2 controller so will not be relying on mumbo jumbo calculations :/ I have seen a few Green air ones but was also looking at the sentinel... any info on that? They seem to like it in the growshop... What size dehu would you recommend? Is your window unit on all the time while lights are on? I assume it is as this would keep the humidity in check/ around 50% constant... I'll have another look at green air's controllers, but I was after a tank instead of burner.

My last room ran 4x 600s and a 400w for mothers/clones, using a 8K btu AC unit, completely sealed setup. A little underpowered, but since CO2 was being used, low 80s F was OK. Dehumidifier is a must during lights out tho. Ran lites at night.

Cheers wizberry,

Sounds reassuring! Sounds like I will need a dehumidifier after all... Drat mo cash I don't have :/ I note that temps can be slightly above usual when running Co2, what is the ceiling for temps when running Co2?

A 12000btu mini split will cover you perfectly IF you get a good name brand unit.
Get one that uses inverter technology (just google it). They are extremely efficient.
By design they are very quite.
In the UK you can get a brand (I cant remember the name but with alittle searching you'll find it) that even comes with quik-loc type connections on the line set so you don't even need to have the lines vacuumed.
I can't help you with the co2 cause I'm still learning about that myself, lol.
Goodluck

Oh, get one that has a "dry mode" and is programmable. That way you set it to "cool" during the lights on hrs and "dry mode" during lights off hrs.
On my unit, by default when in dry mode the set temp is 76 degrees. Meaning, when its in dry mode the temp cant be adjusted, its set by the factory to keep the temps at 76 degrees. Which just so happens to be a perfect temp

Hi evlme2,

that answers quite a bit of my enquiry, cheers! I have seen the quad-lock type you are talking about- they are also known as DIY mini slpit systems. This is what I am after, was going for a mini split portable at first but noted the home mini split indoor unit is like a third of the size of a portable unit and alot more efficient... I'll do a search for one that uses 'inverter technology' and has 'dry mode'... Does your unit have a setting that allows you to have 'dry mode' kick in at a set time?


Much appreciated amigos!

 

[sparkjumper]

I use a cap ppm-3 controller which has been good to me but not so with many others.I've heard it sticks a lot but I've only had the problem once in about 2 years.I hear the sentinel is great.Either way its good to hear you understand the importance of having controlled co2.I'm not kidding cyclestats(Timers that control frequency and duration of burn)according to room size totally suck as do calculations for bottled co2.I have my window unit on 24/7.It never goes off.I keep temps between 80-85 degrees at the canopy using a lazer thermometer.

 

[Guest 18340]

Yes. Mine is fully programmable. It has Auto, Dry, cool and heat modes. I can set it in any combination , to kick on/off at any time of the day/night.
So I set the "cool" mode to kick on when my lights come on. 12 hrs later when the lights shut off it kicks to "dry mode". My humidtiy never goes above 40 degrees, no matter what time of the day/night it is.
These units are awesome. Its as if they had us growers in mind when they designed these things.
Good luck!

 

[~Shhh~]

I use a cap ppm-3 controller which has been good to me but not so with many others.I've heard it sticks a lot but I've only had the problem once in about 2 years.I hear the sentinel is great.Either way its good to hear you understand the importance of having controlled co2.I'm not kidding cyclestats(Timers that control frequency and duration of burn)according to room size totally suck as do calculations for bottled co2.I have my window unit on 24/7.It never goes off.I keep temps between 80-85 degrees at the canopy using a lazer thermometer.

I noticed the same thing you describe about the cap ppm-3 controller when searching for info about it. The sentinel seems to get good reviews all round seems to do the same as the fuzzy logic cap ppm-3, without the customer complaints so I'll probably have to go with that, although this has to be shipped in.... there doesn't seem to be any controller similar to these in Europe. I have ordered a lazer thermometer man! It just looked so cool :/ and yes it does take very accurate measurements which also good, lol...

I will endeavor to keep my canopy at the same temps you quote above.

Yes. Mine is fully programmable. It has Auto, Dry, cool and heat modes. I can set it in any combination , to kick on/off at any time of the day/night.
So I set the "cool" mode to kick on when my lights come on. 12 hrs later when the lights shut off it kicks to "dry mode". My humidtiy never goes above 40 degrees, no matter what time of the day/night it is.
These units are awesome. Its as if they had us growers in mind when they designed these things.
Good luck!

I have found a couple of AC's with inverter tech (which rocks btw!) they also dehumidify at a rate of about 1.8L/h is this enough to keep the humidity in check you think? I have emailed them to see if they have a 'dry mode' for lights off... One is advertised as having '4 modes' so I am assuming 'dry' is one of them. Out of curiosity, and to compare, what is the name & model of your unit?

 

[sparkjumper]

Just get a controllerShhhh,any controller with the cap being the cheapest.When you get your flowering plants dialed in for the co2 enrichment you will be amazed man.O and use R/o water too its an also must.When you pull your first dialed in co2 flowered plant that looks to be maybe 4 oz and it turns out to be six you'll know what I'm talking about

 

[Guest 18340]

http://www.portableacshopping.com/9000btuminisplitac-inverter.html
This is the model I have.