Help me choose a timer

[darkshadow]

I've heard some crazy stories about melting timers causing fires and would like to avoid burning down my apartment if possible.

I have been thinking about buying one of these for my 400w HID :

Should I buy something else? If so, what would it be?

 

[StoopheadFred]

You dont need to be overly scared of a 400w IMO. An xbox draws something like 250w just so you know.

Even if you decide to go for a hydro-store timer (read: overpriced), this isn't the one. This is a periodic timer (meant to go on and off multiple times a day at intervals you set) which would be better for something like a CO2 system.

 

[darkshadow]

This is a periodic timer (meant to go on and off multiple times a day at intervals you set) which would be better for something like a CO2 system.

Thanks for the info.

I thought it would work anyway but, i guess not.

 

[dansbuds]

For just a 400 watt light the digital timers you can buy anywhere will do the trick . but if your still worried about it buy an Intermatic 101 & a 4" square box & cover for a duplex recepticle . that will handle up to 1800 watts on a 20 amp circuit . 1500 on a standard 15 amp house hold bedroom circuit .

http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/3419/ELEC-T101.html?gclid=CJOL6_jvx7UCFUZV4AodAnwA2A

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RACO-Square-Box-Cover-5AA31


all these parts can be bought at homedepot ... including the wire you need & the outlet for around 80 bucks & you'll never have to worry about it burning up .

 

[StoopheadFred]

Look at the "on" dial. That timer only allows you to have your light on for a max of 20 minutes at a time.

 

[darkshadow]

if your still worried about it buy an Intermatic 101 & a 4" square box & cover for a duplex recepticle .

I'd rather not mess with the house wiring.

I guess I'll just keep digging until i can find a reliable timer.

Most timers sold in grow shops aren't even meant to be used this way. Hell, i was about to buy a Titan timer until i went on the company's website and read : CAUTION : DO NOT USE WITH BALLAST. I probably could have started a fire right there.

 

[bloyd]

You don't want that timer, that is a cycle timer. Not what your looking for. My favorite timer never had a problem with 400s http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-timer-95205.html. Hydrofarm rebrands these same timers and sells them for 3x the price.

 

[rives]

The best way to go is what Dan suggested - there are very few timers that will stand up to these types of loads long-term. All watts are not created equal - a magnetic ballast is an inductive load, and an electronic ballast is a capacitive load. Almost all timers are rated based on a resistive load (like a heater), which can be several times higher than the other two types. Personally, I wouldn't use a timer that only gives a wattage or amperage rating without telling you what type of load they are rating it for - you can bet that it is the easiest load to handle, and it is a crap shoot how it will work with ballasts.

If you are only driving one ballast, and easy way to use the Intermatic is to get a good 12 gauge extension cord and cut it in two. You can then feed the timer with the male end, and run your ballast on the female end.

 

[Hurk]

I have a friend who had a 400w light with a cheap timer and the timer caught fire. Don't think that because it's just a 400 you're safe.

 

[darkshadow]

The best way to go is what Dan suggested - there are very few timers that will stand up to these types of loads long-term. All watts are not created equal - a magnetic ballast is an inductive load, and an electronic ballast is a capacitive load. Almost all timers are rated based on a resistive load (like a heater), which can be several times higher than the other two types. Personally, I wouldn't use a timer that only gives a wattage or amperage rating without telling you what type of load they are rating it for - you can bet that it is the easiest load to handle, and it is a crap shoot how it will work with ballasts.

If you are only driving one ballast, and easy way to use the Intermatic is to get a good 12 gauge extension cord and cut it in two. You can then feed the timer with the male end, and run your ballast on the female end.

That's a great idea!

Looks like I've got my answer. Thanks

Don't think that because it's just a 400 you're safe.

I never said i was, the more i research, the more i realize how unsafe all this is.

 

[Hold Your Fire]

Rives.

What do you think of the Titan 4's or 5's.

http://www.titancontrols.net/products/timing/apollo-4-and-5.aspx

They have relay's in them.

 

[darkshadow]

Rives.

What do you think of the Titan 4's or 5's.

http://www.titancontrols.net/products/timing/apollo-4-and-5.aspx

They have relay's in them.

I'd also like to know.

 

[rives]

Rives.

What do you think of the Titan 4's or 5's.

http://www.titancontrols.net/products/timing/apollo-4-and-5.aspx

They have relay's in them.

Well, according to the propaganda sheets, they say that they are rated for ballast usage. However, when you go to the download for detailed specifications, there isn't really much there. The only thing that they list is a rating for tungsten lamps (standard incandescent). They might be fine, and are probably far better than the conventional light-duty timers, but I would either go with the Intermatic or a digital timer driving a power relay. If the specifications don't include details for your intended use, you really don't know what they are good for regardless of what the marketing guys are telling you.

 

[Hold Your Fire]

So the intermatic is the way to go but not sure I understand what you mean with your descrtption, involving the 12 ga cord.

 

[rives]

If you cut a cord in two, you will have a male plug with a cord attached which can then be stripped back and attached to the "line side" of the Intermatic and the ground. This will supply the timer motor and the contacts with power, and can simply be plugged into the wall socket.

The female connector cord end will be stripped back and attached to the load side contacts and ground in the Intermatic. You can then plug your ballast into this female connector.

Be sure and use some cord grips or clamps to provide some strain relief for the cords as they enter the timer enclosure.

I'm not sure how to make it any clearer - if this doesn't do it for you, a more specific question might help.

 

[intotheunknown]

I believe the timer youre going to want is something with a tungsten connection.
as the timer switches on and off the connection between those off and on should be made well.

cheap timers=problems.
its another one of those things... you pay for what you get.

ive been using a digital tungsten connection expensive timer for years on a 400w without issue.
and on my 1k i use an intermatic heavy duty "water heater" timer thats hardwired onto its own 15A breaker. No issues either. It is actually fairly simple to instal-follow the directions.

 

[rives]

I believe the timer youre going to want is something with a tungsten connection.

As I said up above, tungsten refers to standard incandescent lamps. For ballasts, the ratings that you look for are inductive (magnetic) and capacitive (electronic).

 

[intotheunknown]

So Rives, myself running electronic ballasts, would it be a good idea to switch out the timer im using on the 400w?
is this information as far as inductive v.s capacitive printed on the timer and or box it came in? where is this information available?
really glad I ran into this thread. really is something to think more about than I originally did.
Great info Rives.

 

[rives]

My preference is always to use equipment that is rated for the task. Shit can still go awry, but at at least you've done everything foreseeable to stop it. The better timers will have the specification for each type of load on the labeling, but sometimes you need to go to the manufacturer's web site for the detailed specifications.

Sometimes they will give you a rating for "motor load" rather than "inductive". There are 746 watts/hp, so if the timer says that it is good for 1/4 hp, figure that it will only handle about 185 watts of magnetic ballast. Also, keep in mind that the nominal wattage rating (400,600,1000, etc) is just for the lamp and does not include the ballast losses (the amount of power that it takes for the ballast to run). This is usually around another 10%, at least.

Glad this is of help to you!

 

[dansbuds]

As a referance point for what Rives & I are talking about . if you look at the timer in my pic , theres a 12 guage appliance cord coming from the bottom of my timer plugged into a 20 amp circuit . I have 2 20 amp circuits run from the basement to my grow room & my 3 lights/timer is on 1 circuit & the rest of my fans and stuff is off the other .

but yeah a 12 guage appliance cord is good enough to run your light without fear .

& the outlet the timer is plugged into .