HELP I HAVE MOLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Guest]

High I hope everyone is having a great Holiday season,
I Went to my Cabinet this morning and noticed white powdery mold on a few of the leaves of my grapefruit clone and also one of my haze x g13 is splochy
with the stuff . I 've added more ventilation,a small clip on fan (in addition to
the wall hung Fan i have in their now) Also, should I Quarentine the infected victims ? any help or info will be appreciated

Psychic

 

[Guest]

High Psychichigh. In a grow book i have they call it powdery mildew, which i think is the same thing your talkin about. For control it says to increase air circulation like you did and Remove and destroy any foilage that is more than 50% infected.

Biological Control: Apply Serenade or spray with a saturation mix of baking soda and water.

Sprays: A saturation baking soda spray dries to a fine powder on leaf. The baking soda changes the surface ph of the leaf to 7 and powdery mildew cannot grow.

Hope this helps. peace.

 

[Guest]

Thanx so much , baking soda /water here I come lol

psy

 

[Babbabud]

bring the ph of some water up to about 8.0 and spray the leaves .. this should leave an alkaline residue and mildew will not grow on the alkaline suface ....increase grow room circulation ... should help if you stay on top of it ... also a neem spray if not too far into flower will help as the mildew cannot grow on the neem residue either.. hope this helps a bit >>>.... merry merry

 

[mybeans420]

i go the same route babba mentioned. i spray with neem regularly up to week 4 of flower. keeps bugs and mildew in check.

 

[Guest]

Well I to have the same stuff. It is called a few thing's and basically it is all the same, mold. It can be removed in a few way's, I just keep my humidity under 50%, but still found it and so it was because of air circulation, what I thought was good was half ass at best, improved this and all is gone.

I love the idea of the neam oil because I have it and can use it. I hope to improve the garden with this new information.

grow safe.

realhigh.

 

[Californian]

Powdery Mildew

Powdery Mildew

If this is what you have, it will kill all your plants very quickly. It's very aggressive. The ONLY way you are ever really going to kill it completely is if you get a sulphur vaporizer. Within a few days it will completely wipe out powdery mildew.

http://www.thestgeorgeco.com/catalogue/html/sulfume.html

Or something like it. I use mine about an hour and a half a week during the dark hours as a prevantative measure.

 

[Guest]

Thanks to everyone who posted and stopped by my thread to help. im using bakingsoda/water and im picking up some neem oil today.
Also californian i'll look into that
Psychichigh

 

[badmf]

The methods mentioned are all very good, but keep in mind this will re-occur if you don't completly sanitize the space after this grow! Use a 50% bleach or a h202 and wipe off everything including tools etc! Spores will land and when conditions are right again bam they're back! I use Serenade "before" this is a problem and outdoors too! Good low humidity and air circulation inhibit molds.

 

[Hashmasta-Kut]

if yo want to be a hippie about the whole thing, use milk, 10 -1 dilution. spay on. its great. i just tested it myself. read up on it it is used worlddwide in commercial growing. no bad milk smell either , a worry to some.

 

[Hashmasta-Kut]

actually very dry air promotes growth....you want good air circulation , and some humidity. actually moisture sprayed directly on the leaves is inhibiting. if you have a very dry room with good circulation the mildew spreads.

 

[Hashmasta-Kut]

"Well, its not your average, run-of-the-mill leaf mold is it?

Glad to hear you've been able to keep it at bay.

Here is a quote that might furthür clarify this behaviour:


Powery mildew of squash can be caused by two
species of fungi. Early in the season Erysiphe
cichoracearum is more common while later Sphaerotheca
fuliginea is predominant. Conidia of S. fuliginea germinate
at temperatures between 15 and 30°C, with the optimum
at 25°C. Germination does not occur below 15°C or above
31°C, or at a relative humidity below 95%. Conidial
germination requires a deposit of dew, but less than 3%
germinate in waterlogged conditions. The symptoms first
appear on old squash leaves seven to eight weeks after
emergence, but appear progressively earlier, relative to
the age of the leaf, on the later formed leaves. The disease
is more severe in shade than in full light, in close plant
spacings, and where luxuriant growth occurs because of
high nitrogen levels.


This author states +95% RH for spore germination...

This is how I've understood this... ok so after the humidity is high and the air is warm there's the 'conidia' that forms from the spores, 'condinium', on the leaves. It can be pread along by wind etc, no problem. Happy little PM conidia.

But to become a pathogen, a pest, it needs to grow its tendrils into the plants leaves to suck juiced from it, and form mycelium and grow along the surface. This mycelium, being on the surface of the leaf with little cover, does not like being sprayed or disturbed. Thus dry warm climate would be best for its growth."


stolen from somewhere....

 

[Guest]

if yo want to be a hippie about the whole thing, use milk, 10 -1 dilution. spay on. its great. i just tested it myself. read up on it it is used worlddwide in commercial growing. no bad milk smell either , a worry to some.

would that be whole, 2%, or skim? LOL

I drink skim if that shit works im all over it

CBF

 

[Pacridge]

I had a problem with mold. My mold was a light grey. Deep in the larger buds, really ruined my day. I read in Jorge C's book that spraying a light bleech solution would help plus raising the temp and lowering the hum. In the end I lost and lot of my last batch. Plus much of what wasn't lost was bleech a kind of white color.

So far this batch seems good. I've added a propane heater that's kept the hum. down and the heat up.

Any more info on how this milk treatment is done?