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Heat signatures from the sky
- Thread starter az_kush
- Start date
badgr
Member
I wonder how far one of those Flir Helli's can see inside of a building. How many walls etc.. are needed to block the heat Sig. Would a 400w in an air cooled hood in a cab even show up? I was going to get that poly shield but I just used multiple layers of duct insulation. Everything i read seemed to make me think its not a huge deal if your running a small grow cab i/e 600w's and below? can anyone confirm? Thanks
Uh, all they see is heat signature differences. If your roof is much hotter in one part of the house then the other... they might think of something. But, garages are typically hotter then the rest of a house anyways.
G
Guest
Yeah I was under the impression they just see the heat of the house's walls, so like he said, if one part of the house is significantly hotter than another it gets noticed. Does anyone know for sure on this?
New Holland
Member
If your running 400's or 600's I wouldn't worry about heat signatures unless your getting into the 4Kw+ setup. I myself, and neighbours have 500 watt Halogens in our backyards, 100 watt incadesants, Refridgerator motors A/C units, heaters, even street lights giving of more heat then a couple of 400's or 600's. So I doubt they're gonna stick out amoungst the crowd.
If your growing in a house with Insulation already installed I wouldn't worry to much. Just think about it for a second,.....the heat from your grow light needs to eminate through plaster, then noticably heat the air in the gap between the plaster and outside brick wall, then heat the brick (or tile, incase of a roof) enough to radiate a signature outside that can be seen by Flir. Just think, do you think bricks outside your growroom are going to be any warmer then the rest of the house? Bricks are good Insulators.
Just need to worry about windows.
If your growing in a house with Insulation already installed I wouldn't worry to much. Just think about it for a second,.....the heat from your grow light needs to eminate through plaster, then noticably heat the air in the gap between the plaster and outside brick wall, then heat the brick (or tile, incase of a roof) enough to radiate a signature outside that can be seen by Flir. Just think, do you think bricks outside your growroom are going to be any warmer then the rest of the house? Bricks are good Insulators.
Just need to worry about windows.
One thing to note, if your exhausting hot air directly outside, that will show up and obviously.
Personally, I have a full framed wooden room in my garage and all of my exhaust goes into the garage and then slowly leaks out of its cracks.
My best suggestion is to vent into your attic during the day (if security is that big of a deal). Attics are known to be hot and any air that is passive going out of it won't seem odd.
Really, when it comes down to it, FLIR is the least of your worries
List of worries, starting with most important:
1) Improper electrical wiring.
2) Having a landlord need to do inspections.
3) People knowing about your grow.
4) Being over a plant count (if medical).
5) Actually getting some bud
6) Your dog crapping on the floor.
7) Finally FLIR
Over the span of my growing time, I've lived through 1-6 and everything was still fine. How about focusing on your grow and forget the worries; they make no difference in what will or will not happen.
Personally, I have a full framed wooden room in my garage and all of my exhaust goes into the garage and then slowly leaks out of its cracks.
My best suggestion is to vent into your attic during the day (if security is that big of a deal). Attics are known to be hot and any air that is passive going out of it won't seem odd.
Really, when it comes down to it, FLIR is the least of your worries
List of worries, starting with most important:
1) Improper electrical wiring.
2) Having a landlord need to do inspections.
3) People knowing about your grow.
4) Being over a plant count (if medical).
5) Actually getting some bud
6) Your dog crapping on the floor.
7) Finally FLIR
Over the span of my growing time, I've lived through 1-6 and everything was still fine. How about focusing on your grow and forget the worries; they make no difference in what will or will not happen.
Last edited:
roundtree
New member
Here's something so you can get an Idea of what your working against.
Thermal Infrared
No illumination required (uses object's own radiation)
Unnatural images
More expensive (http://www.nlectc.org, 2003)
Here's how thermal imaging works:
A special lens focuses the infrared light emitted by all of the objects in view.
The focused light is scanned by a phased array of infrared-detector elements. The detector elements create a very detailed temperature pattern called a thermogram. It only takes about one-thirtieth of a second for the detector array to obtain the temperature information to make the thermogram. This information is obtained from several thousand points in the field of view of the detector array.
The thermogram created by the detector elements is translated into electric impulses.
The impulses are sent to a signal-processing unit, a circuit board with a dedicated chip that translates the information from the elements into data for the display.
The signal-processing unit sends the information to the display, where it appears as various colors depending on the intensity of the infrared emission. The combination of all the impulses from all of the elements creates the image.
Most thermal-imaging devices scan at a rate of 30 times per second. They can sense temperatures ranging from -4 degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees Celsius) to 3,600 F (2,000 C), and can normally detect changes in temperature of about 0.4 F (0.2 C). There are two common types of thermal-imaging devices:
Un-cooled - This is the most common type of thermal-imaging device. The infrared-detector elements are contained in a unit that operates at room temperature. This type of system is completely quiet, activates immediately and has the battery built right in.
Cryogenically cooled - More expensive and more susceptible to damage from rugged use, these systems have the elements sealed inside a container that cools them to below 32 F (zero C). The advantage of such a system is the incredible resolution and sensitivity that result from cooling the elements. Cryogenically cooled systems can "see" a difference as small as 0.2 F (0.1 C) from more than 1,000 ft (300 m) away, which is enough to tell if a person is holding a gun at that distance!
Thermal imaging - This technology operates by capturing the upper portion of the infrared light spectrum, which is emitted as heat by objects instead of simply reflected as light. Hotter objects, such as warm bodies, emit more of this light than cooler objects like trees or buildings (http://www.howstuffworks.com, 2003).
Round1
Thermal Infrared
No illumination required (uses object's own radiation)
Unnatural images
More expensive (http://www.nlectc.org, 2003)
Here's how thermal imaging works:
A special lens focuses the infrared light emitted by all of the objects in view.
The focused light is scanned by a phased array of infrared-detector elements. The detector elements create a very detailed temperature pattern called a thermogram. It only takes about one-thirtieth of a second for the detector array to obtain the temperature information to make the thermogram. This information is obtained from several thousand points in the field of view of the detector array.
The thermogram created by the detector elements is translated into electric impulses.
The impulses are sent to a signal-processing unit, a circuit board with a dedicated chip that translates the information from the elements into data for the display.
The signal-processing unit sends the information to the display, where it appears as various colors depending on the intensity of the infrared emission. The combination of all the impulses from all of the elements creates the image.
Most thermal-imaging devices scan at a rate of 30 times per second. They can sense temperatures ranging from -4 degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees Celsius) to 3,600 F (2,000 C), and can normally detect changes in temperature of about 0.4 F (0.2 C). There are two common types of thermal-imaging devices:
Un-cooled - This is the most common type of thermal-imaging device. The infrared-detector elements are contained in a unit that operates at room temperature. This type of system is completely quiet, activates immediately and has the battery built right in.
Cryogenically cooled - More expensive and more susceptible to damage from rugged use, these systems have the elements sealed inside a container that cools them to below 32 F (zero C). The advantage of such a system is the incredible resolution and sensitivity that result from cooling the elements. Cryogenically cooled systems can "see" a difference as small as 0.2 F (0.1 C) from more than 1,000 ft (300 m) away, which is enough to tell if a person is holding a gun at that distance!
Thermal imaging - This technology operates by capturing the upper portion of the infrared light spectrum, which is emitted as heat by objects instead of simply reflected as light. Hotter objects, such as warm bodies, emit more of this light than cooler objects like trees or buildings (http://www.howstuffworks.com, 2003).
Round1
G
Guest
And the correct answer is aluminum foil.
The second correct answer is that, if you're really in danger of being found by an i.r. device, evolution of legal doctrine is going to mean the heat you vent will become problematic too.
Therefore you're talking about a lot of aluminum foil or aluminum foil-backed styrofoam sheet, or the aluminized poly you see sold above.
If you're in the united states, your private residence is protected by constitutional issues involving an i.r being able to reproduce a very good image of you making love to your old lady or rubbing your itchy creme on, etc.
If you're not, basements are the first layer of protection. The reason for that, is that the ceilings of them can be easily insulated using foil-backed foam and at that point, only seepage of heat is at issue.
IF you're not basement ready they sell an aluminized panda film now as you see above. If you can't get that, then aluminum foil is the answer. Allegedly, the thicker the better.
If you google the likely phrases concerning 'reduced i.r. signature' and 'avoiding infra red detection' etc, you're going to find a lot about it; many of the things written about it have to do with the masking of i.r. of soldiers, and military vehicles, so don't be shy in your reading.
But it boils down to aluminum foil. How you get there is a matter of mechanical convenience for you and your building skills & cash.
The second correct answer is that, if you're really in danger of being found by an i.r. device, evolution of legal doctrine is going to mean the heat you vent will become problematic too.
Therefore you're talking about a lot of aluminum foil or aluminum foil-backed styrofoam sheet, or the aluminized poly you see sold above.
If you're in the united states, your private residence is protected by constitutional issues involving an i.r being able to reproduce a very good image of you making love to your old lady or rubbing your itchy creme on, etc.
If you're not, basements are the first layer of protection. The reason for that, is that the ceilings of them can be easily insulated using foil-backed foam and at that point, only seepage of heat is at issue.
IF you're not basement ready they sell an aluminized panda film now as you see above. If you can't get that, then aluminum foil is the answer. Allegedly, the thicker the better.
If you google the likely phrases concerning 'reduced i.r. signature' and 'avoiding infra red detection' etc, you're going to find a lot about it; many of the things written about it have to do with the masking of i.r. of soldiers, and military vehicles, so don't be shy in your reading.
But it boils down to aluminum foil. How you get there is a matter of mechanical convenience for you and your building skills & cash.
Last edited:
Black_Cloud
New member
I haven't even thought bout IR choppers. Has me thinking now. I have my grow in a shed and the whole shed gets pretty hot.. Heli flies my area every once in a while although i dont think they would take notice.. How much detail can they get through IR and do they need any warrant to go down and check it out or is that image enough to get them snooping...
I will soon be running a 400 watt hps but i recently installed a 5000 btu AC in the Shed hopefully they cancel out.
I will soon be running a 400 watt hps but i recently installed a 5000 btu AC in the Shed hopefully they cancel out.
