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I'd hang a carbon filter at one end, then your fan, then the 1000wt light (with air cooled hood). The fan will suck air through the carbon filter and blow air through your hood and out of the room. That's about as simple a setup as you can get.
I'd also recommend going with a bigger fan than you probably need. Go one size up. I would recommend Hyper Fans. They use very minimal electricity and move more air than most other fans on the market. They also come with a controller that allows you to turn the fan speed up and down.
Your room is 104 cubic feet. You want a fan that will exchange all the air in the room every 5 minutes at the very least. Every minute is better... So you want a fan that is a bare minimum of 250cfm. I'd go with a 400-500cfm 6 inch inline fan. If you get the hyper fan (or just buy a fan controller that works with any type of fan) then you can always just turn the fan down if it's too powerful.
I like moving as much air as possible though. I like some negative pressure in the room (so you see the walls kind of getting sucked in a little bit. Keeps all the smell in).
And if you set it up the way I described you can just have a passive intake opening and you will get plenty of fresh air without needing a separate intake fan (and at the same time remove all the heat and smell from your room).
So here's a diagram as best as I can quickly make it here -
(Carbon filter) -> (fan) -> (air cooled light) -> (air vented out of the room)
You can just stick the fan right on one end of the carbon filter. Then on the other end of the fan you attach flexible ducting and run it to the light, and then run another piece of flexible ducting from the other end of the light to wherever you want the used air to vent.
Hopefully the way I explained it is understandable... lol
I guess I should have asked, do you have a light reflector yet? If so, is it an air cooled type? I'm not sure if that's what you meant about 4,6,8 in attachments or not...
I have pretty much always run the air cooled hoods, so I'm not sure...
I remember way back in the day having a 400 in a closet (with no ventilation at all) and it got way too hot (obviously). But you are running ventilation, so hopefully it will be ok.
You can still just set the fan on top of the carbon filter and run ducting from the other end of the fan to outside the room. Try to keep the ducting in as straight a line as possible. Every time it turns, you lose air flow. If you have to make a turn with the ducting, you want to get those 90 degree metal elbows, so the air flows smoothly around the turn.
Hopefully with a 400 or 500 CFM fan it will move enough air in the tent to keep it cool.
If not, worst case scenario you may have to switch to an air cooled hood.
I would also try to set up the ballast outside of the tent (if it's a remote ballast). That will eliminate some heat.
Well it really depends on your ambient temperatures.
First the Carbon filter will drop the output of the exhaust by 25% to 30%, so if I decided that I need 100 CFM, I woud put a 150CFM exhaust.
Secondly, different ambient temperatures will give you different CFM requirements, for example for a target temperature of 77°F (25°C)
a) Ambient temperature (AT) of 50°F (10°C), then 70 CFM with no filter, 100 with filter
b) AT of 59°F (15°C), then 105 CFM no filter, 150 with filter
c) AT of 68°F (20°C), then 211 CFM no filter, 300 with filter.
You will exchange the air between once and three times every minute.