GreenGreenie
Member
I posted this in the wrong topic a couple minutes ago.
My apologies for the dual post, I'm new to all this and didn't even think about it until I realized no other posts had anything to do with wiring or controls at the original location.
Here's a copy/paste:
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I have a 7' x 12' greenhouse with 7'6" ceiling.
Triple sealed it and lined with reflective 1 1/4" insulation on walls and ceiling.
Got 3 air cooled grow hoods, but didn't hook up the insulated duct because I was worried the air scrubber would miss whatever odors escaped through the duct connections, and, my thinking was to remove the air from the peak, where the all the heat rises to.
Have 3, 1000W dimmable ballasts.
My biggest problem is heat. I can probably run the lamps at 600W, but was told the lower current will affect the light spectrum output, and only running at 1000W will I get the full benefits.
Right now I am only doing 10 plants, in flower with 2 MV @ 100%, and 1 HPS @ 50%. I'm finding the exhaust only cant get below high 70's.
I just ordered some parts to make 2 stage automatic cooling.
Going to install a motorized damper, and put a micro switch on it to run an inline fan for intake air.
I repurposed a commercial controller, so for normal heat the exhaust fan will come on, and the intake damper motor will open, then the micro switch will turn on the intake fan.
That will work only as long as it is 50° or 60° outside.
When it's 70° or warmer outside, the 2nd stage will turn off the intake supply, and turn on the AC.
Should I make the logic turn off the exhaust when the AC is on?
I'm worried about 2 factors
1) Sucking out the freshly cooled air. Even by redirecting the air flows so the cooled air is circulated as well as possible I could wind up blowing that expensive chilled air out the exhaust.
2) By introducing more air into the environment a positive pressure will be created. Continuing to push more air in will eventually cause the inside environment to push its way out. If I push air out that isn't scrubbed my grow will stink up the while neighborhood.
Even putting the AC on recirc there's an amount of fresh air mixed through an internal damper on the unit, so no matter what, sooner or later, a positive pressure will be developed.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.[/FONT]
My apologies for the dual post, I'm new to all this and didn't even think about it until I realized no other posts had anything to do with wiring or controls at the original location.
Here's a copy/paste:
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I have a 7' x 12' greenhouse with 7'6" ceiling.
Triple sealed it and lined with reflective 1 1/4" insulation on walls and ceiling.
Got 3 air cooled grow hoods, but didn't hook up the insulated duct because I was worried the air scrubber would miss whatever odors escaped through the duct connections, and, my thinking was to remove the air from the peak, where the all the heat rises to.
Have 3, 1000W dimmable ballasts.
My biggest problem is heat. I can probably run the lamps at 600W, but was told the lower current will affect the light spectrum output, and only running at 1000W will I get the full benefits.
Right now I am only doing 10 plants, in flower with 2 MV @ 100%, and 1 HPS @ 50%. I'm finding the exhaust only cant get below high 70's.
I just ordered some parts to make 2 stage automatic cooling.
Going to install a motorized damper, and put a micro switch on it to run an inline fan for intake air.
I repurposed a commercial controller, so for normal heat the exhaust fan will come on, and the intake damper motor will open, then the micro switch will turn on the intake fan.
That will work only as long as it is 50° or 60° outside.
When it's 70° or warmer outside, the 2nd stage will turn off the intake supply, and turn on the AC.
Should I make the logic turn off the exhaust when the AC is on?
I'm worried about 2 factors
1) Sucking out the freshly cooled air. Even by redirecting the air flows so the cooled air is circulated as well as possible I could wind up blowing that expensive chilled air out the exhaust.
2) By introducing more air into the environment a positive pressure will be created. Continuing to push more air in will eventually cause the inside environment to push its way out. If I push air out that isn't scrubbed my grow will stink up the while neighborhood.
Even putting the AC on recirc there's an amount of fresh air mixed through an internal damper on the unit, so no matter what, sooner or later, a positive pressure will be developed.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks in advance.[/FONT]
