Golden Tiger

[bmking]

Thanks rudiger, the two plants are in a 11.5/12.5 cycle. You are correct, Coco A+B gives 5-4-3... I will grab PK and reduce the lightning as you suggest. And is 10 not too extreme?

About the defoliating, should I totally stop it, although then the leaves cover over all the buds and branches?

Thanks again for taking your time answering me!

 

[smallgardener]

all flowering cycle 10/14? maybe this can be problem due to lower yield , but definitely fast things up...
if you can, give them stronger light. with this light they can go more than 15weeks total I guess...they look like very slow extreme thai pheno and yes stop taking the upper leaves - you will end with smaller fluffier buds

 

[rüdiger]

'About the defoliating, should I totally stop it, although then the leaves cover over all the buds and branches?'

yes, totally stop it.
think about what happens in your plant.
she stores all the nutrient you give her, in her leaves.
you take off the storages and put more nutrient in her system.
this makes no sense. and fucks your plant.

When you lower the N part and up PK, she will start to deplete the leaves of the nutrients and transport them to the flowers.

so you drive ec 1, you dose the canna ab to the half and up the now missing ec till it is0,8 with PK!
this is your new nutrient solution.

if you want her to finish with a high quality product, it is not extreme to give those extreme tropical sativas a lightning schedule beyond 11 hours.

10/14!

Has anyone of the low yield claimers ever tried it with 9,5/14,5 and a real pure haze or thai?
i dont think so
those plants differ the well known dutch hybrid so very much in their behavior.

your light is enough intense.
i finished my very sativa malawi in 14 weeks with lower than 25w per square feet and fluoros.



this is what i see, take care, i cant touch her

 

[bmking]

I have been growing different "mostly-sativas" before, but never have I been growing those kind of tropical sativas before. Maybe I had also "bad luck" to get my hands on an extreme thai-influenced phenotype. But I see it more as my chance to try this out!

I will go down to 10 hours of light per day. I have an EC of 1.2 at the moment with 2/3 osmosis water and 1/3 tap water giving an base EC of 0.4. Should I then add canna a+b until EC of 0.7 and then add PK until it reaches an EC of 1.0?

I have never used the PK before since I know it can burn the plants like hell! Therefore I just want to be sure.

I sound like a total newbie, but those plants need a totally different handling than sativa-hybrids I am used to. I like new challenges!

Thanks again and I stop cutting any leaves now. Normally I never did this anyhow. I don't mind 8 more weeks of flowering, but then they really need to be finished...

 

[rüdiger]

hi,

It can burn if overdosed like the recommendations on the bottles,
it should not burn anything if you keep your ec below 1!

- your start ec 0,4, ok.

step one: add canna ab till ec 0,6(1) or 0,7(2) or 0,8(3)

step two: add PK till ec 0,8(1) or 0,9(2) or 1,0(3)

always work a schedule like this from below, i recommend to start with the (1) variant then back up if defs. show up too fast.

your not newb, you do coco and take exact measurements of your nutrients, thats quite advanced.

handwater or automatic fertigation?

 

[bmking]

Thanks again for your exact step-by-step plan. I will try it like you write. I handwater them three times a day, since it is still manageable with only two plants. Therefore it is also much easier for me to adjust the measurements.
I will start mixing the nutritients now

This is my second time on Coco, the first time was with Orient Express which did also grow a lot but that was more due to change of medium. Coco impresses me a lot!

 

[rüdiger]

glad to help, keep us updated please!

I like to see how they react.

rüdiger

 

[bmking]

As promised I want to present some new pictures, taken exactly one week after the last update.

They are finally starting to develop many pistils and growth is slowing down (although not stopping totally). They have a slight N-deficiency, which is good and I will keep my EC at 0.8 with half comming from coco A+B and the rest being PK 13/14.

There is one more yellow spot which can be seen on the canopy. This is not because of N-deficiency but because the plant grew too close to the light bulb. I have bend them more down now.

As can be seen I have not cut any leafs. Should I leave like that or take down some of the bigger leafs so there is more air and a tiny little bit more space?

Well, rudiger, your advice was very appreciated!!! I think it has helped me A LOT! Now the plants feel like being more manageable. I think had I not switched down the light and the N, they would have been growing far far more and still not being in the process of exploding pistils.

 

[Ready4]

we grew 3 GT's in soil and got 1 lady... we cut her in 3 cuttings at 110/120/148 days... did not see much diff headwise between the cuttings... smelled like hay when 1st cut, but did develop some nice florals after a bit of cure ...

Thanks for your research Zach. That "smelled like hay" gave me a good hint. Years ago, I had a very sativa leaning cross that I grew for 16-17 weeks, nice huge buds but tasted like hay and was not anywhere near as very special as the ones I picked far earlier.
So.. I had a GT fem, 10 weeks at 12/12, then switched to 10.5/13.5 .
At 88 days it looked done or close to it as there was no new pistils forming and, for a very low odor strain(superb !) it had developed a nice very special sharpness to the smell. After reading about the "hay" in your post, I gave it a chop. I do not believe in sitting there scoping with a loupe at the trichs - I believe these sativas can really mislead regarding trich colors. I have noticed for years that cdertain strains would reach an odor level that was extra intense for several days and then would go down hill with potency the longer they ran after smell subsided some.
Very happy to report that what I had at 88 days was and is very incredibly special and just awesome. Not too early at all in my opinion as their is no extra racy effect = it is possibly my new favorite. At zero cure, barely dry, it was fantastic. After curing, it has gone up another notch. A couple extra hits and trip weed indeed !!! Others have different phenos for sure, but at roughly 13 weeks it has stunned all who have smoked with me, including some friends who I call the "weed snobs" with their lates OG boring kush,etc - they were very surprised at how damn potent GT was.
Good luck to all, I really was impressed with GT. Highly recommend it !!! Thanks Dubi !

 

[rüdiger]

As promised I want to present some new pictures, taken exactly one week after the last update.

They are finally starting to develop many pistils and growth is slowing down (although not stopping totally). They have a slight N-deficiency, which is good and I will keep my EC at 0.8 with half comming from coco A+B and the rest being PK 13/14.

There is one more yellow spot which can be seen on the canopy. This is not because of N-deficiency but because the plant grew too close to the light bulb. I have bend them more down now.

As can be seen I have not cut any leafs. Should I leave like that or take down some of the bigger leafs so there is more air and a tiny little bit more space?

Well, rudiger, your advice was very appreciated!!! I think it has helped me A LOT! Now the plants feel like being more manageable. I think had I not switched down the light and the N, they would have been growing far far more and still not being in the process of exploding pistils.

very nice, she starts to push now!
let her be, be patient and im sure she'll reward you with some very special smoke.
dont cut the leaves even if they shade budsites, she will get rid of them naturally when the N def works up the plant.
its all good you got control now!

best, rüdiger

 

[Homebrewer]

very nice, she starts to push now!
let her be, be patient and im sure she'll reward you with some very special smoke.
dont cut the leaves even if they shade budsites, she will get rid of them naturally when the N def works up the plant.
its all good you got control now!

best, rüdiger

When these plants drop leaves, that is NOT a sign that things are going well.

 

[rüdiger]

have you grown his plant?

or do you think every cannabis plant behaves the same in flower?


If bmking will feed his plant further on a high N schedule, this plant will never finish for him.
In his last update you can see a definite ongoing flower buildup, this was not only induced because he cut his light hours.
It was induced partially by the now higher PK to N ratio in the nutrient solution.

It is a natural behavior of certain sativa genetics to get rid of their fan leaves, 'feeding' them to their flowers.
When you break such behaviors, feeding them high N when they start to yellow up in mid flower, they will never show their real potential.

and i dont want you to 'red' my writings in this thread, keep it calm and polite.

if you have a better idea, a feeding schedule or any other suggestions for bmking, you can write it down here and try to help him.

this was my intention. to help him.

addition:

Dubi from some pages earlier in this thread:

'The slender more delicate expressions are very thai dominant, they need quite less Nitrogen than the other phenos.'

 

[Elmer Bud]

FWIW, I've found that a high nitrogen formula from start to finish works best, especially when it comes to longer flowering strains. For starters, higher doses of phosphorus induces stretch whereas higher N encourages branching. You'll not only get structurally superior plants with a high N, low P combo but they'll be MUCH healthier in the long run.

Just feed with restraint, keep your medium clean and these plants will know exactly what to do. Good luck!

Originally posted by Rudiger .
have you grown his plant?

or do you think every cannabis plant behaves the same in flower?


If bmking will feed his plant further on a high N schedule, this plant will never finish for him.
In his last update you can see a definite ongoing flower buildup, this was not only induced because he cut his light hours.
It was induced partially by the now higher PK to N ratio in the nutrient solution.

It is a natural behavior of certain sativa genetics to get rid of their fan leaves, 'feeding' them to their flowers.
When you break such behaviors, feeding them high N when they start to yellow up in mid flower, they will never show their real potential.

and i dont want you to 'red' my writings in this thread, keep it calm and polite.

if you have a better idea, a feeding schedule or any other suggestions for bmking, you can write it down here and try to help him.

this was my intention. to help him.

G`day HB

That regime might work for your Hybrids .
Though looking at the fox tails and greenness of the leaves you will need to cure longer to remove the chlorophyll . Or its gonna be bitey in the lungs . https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6374607&postcount=406

But more land race or extreme sativa don`t like it . They store nitrogen and use it up in flower . High N makes for foxtails later flower set and never finish experiences .
Feeding my plants with canna A/ B my plants have faded and a lot of leaves dropped . The flowers still flourish .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[Homebrewer]

I could comment and correct several things in the two posts above but I'll refrain as I've already said my piece in the previous pages. But I would challenge you folks to think about these plants in common sense terms. If your house plant started dropping leaves and turning yellow, would you think that's a good sign?

Unfortunately BmKing's plants in the weeks to come will reflect what happens when folks do what they think is best for the plant instead of actually listening to the plant. Good luck!

 

[Elmer Bud]

G`day Home Brewer

These are Thai / Malawi cannabis hybrids . From Tropical climates .Grown for seedless flowers .
Not house plants ...


Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[Homebrewer]

These are Thai / Malawi cannabis hybrids . From Tropical climates .Grown for seedless flowers .
Not house plants ...

So just to be clear, you're saying chlorosis and premature leaf-drop are desirable in this 'specific case'?

 

[Elmer Bud]

G`day HB

I smoke flowers not leaves .
I try took look through the leaves at the calyxes when I am assessing a plant . I have seen plants with no shade leaves left continue to stack on weight .

So to answer your question yes . And in many other cases as well . Growing Sativa sinsemilla is not about how pretty the leaves look at 90 days .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[Homebrewer]

So to answer your question yes . And in many other cases as well . Growing Sativa sinsemilla is not about how pretty the leaves look at 90 days .

I'm not going to tell you how to grow but I am going to tell you that you've been misguided. The info is out there should you seek higher quality flowers for yourself. Good luck to you .

 

[rüdiger]

i walk the wrong side, its the sunny one

'I could comment and correct several things in the two posts above but I'll refrain as I've already said my piece in the previous pages. But I would challenge you folks to think about these plants in common sense terms. If your house plant started dropping leaves and turning yellow, would you think that's a good sign?'

again,
common sense is that cannabis is no house plant, nor a vegetable.


'Unfortunately BmKing's plants in the weeks to come will reflect what happens when folks do what they think is best for the plant instead of actually listening to the plant. Good luck!'

what is your advice for him with his plant and situation?
is it possible to be a bit more constructive?

have a nice weekend, rüdiger

 

[rüdiger]

This is my 14week ACE Malawi flowering in 4x4 easyplug(coco/perlite),

their nutrient is PK + micros only, forcefed via submerge watering, ec 0,9. day 52.

I challenge you to replicate with a high n, mid k, low p schedule.
this can be done in any setup in a corner and takes no place.

btw, i really fucked with them a few times draught wise...

rüdiger