Golden Tiger

[rüdiger]

have you any evidence of a pure sativa grown like this? 12week+?

'Sats don't like to be pushed and mine seemed to yellow up very quickly with any high P boosters or high P flowering formulas.'

maybe I do a side by side, same container, peat based organic media

one low N high PK, other high N low P mid K.

in my experience, with that runoff and your schedule, i will grow a red stemmed eagle claw tree. soil or hydro.

is there something special in that pro mix, like a slow release pk source?
could it be the pro mix that make this method work?

thank you for ideas.

'When thinking about smoke quality, to me that´s the main priority, is it better to yellowish fan leaves on late flowering(meaning that the energy is being depleted from the plant) or dark green ones (meaning that the plant keeps feeding herself on the nutes) ?
My experience tells me that the first option suits me needs/tastes better.
I end up with a very smooth herb straight after drying and because most fan leaves have fall down it´s easy peasy to trim.
Is this just plain stupidity or am i into something?'

no childish, you follow the road to golden brown. hehe ;-)

 

[Elmer Bud]

have you any evidence of a pure sativa grown like this? 12week+?

'Sats don't like to be pushed and mine seemed to yellow up very quickly with any high P boosters or high P flowering formulas.'

maybe I do a side by side, same container, peat based organic media

one low N high PK, other high N low P mid K.

in my experience, with that runoff and your schedule, i will grow a red stemmed eagle claw tree. soil or hydro.

is there something special in that pro mix, like a slow release pk source?
could it be the pro mix that make this method work?

G`day Rudiger

The Red Stemmed Eagle Claw was what flashed into my mind as well . lol .

But he did say low , low dose nutes .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[rüdiger]

hey Elmer Bud

'But he did say low , low dose nutes'

wouldn't that even contribute more to the eagle tree expression?

this must be something with promix...or i really dont get it.


Homebrewer,
I read your whole thread with the serious 6 grow.

It seems to me that you grow for optical beautifulness.

in nature, cannabis is an annual and dies after her regenerative phase, the plant is genetical adapted to conditions where her growing media depletes of nutrients while she gains in bio mass. the re-gain to the soil is then done by her leftovers. also true for very long flowering tropical sativas near equator, just a slower cycle.

Imho this slow cutout of nutrient can be adapted to indoor.
when I now take a plant in this cycle and charge her with PK(and micros!), she will start to push flowers like crazy.
this is my experience, especially with sativa dominant strains.

rüdiger

 

[Elmer Bud]

G`day Rudiger

Could be the veg season in the sub tropics / tropics is the monsoon or wet season .
The flowering goes on at the end of Winter the dry season . And the "build up " to the wet season when humidity rises but rains don`t come yet .

So the wet season activates the soil . The less frequent rains as Winter carries on mean less microbe activity in the soil and less water to the plant in early flowering . Then late flower the ground is getting dry and cooler . The plant finishes and mulches the ground and nurtures the seeds and on it goes .

Stick that in your pipe and smoke it ! lol .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[rüdiger]

EB,
this is the detailed description what happens!

i smoke it raw

-my wormbin is the wet season
-the veg is my mamas
-clones go flowering where I let the media deplete of certain nutrients
and charge with PK
-unsmokable product goes back to wormbin after harvest

im a mad chemorganic forcefeeder

 

[Homebrewer]

have you any evidence of a pure sativa grown like this? 12week+?

Yup, every time a harvest.

Kali mist around 80 days:



Kali mist at 100 days:



A thai and Colombian gold cross from Classic Seeds around 80 days:

A haze hybrid of mine at 11 weeks:





It's all about your application rate. I've grown a lot more unhealthy plants with a high P, low N combination than any other mix.

is there something special in that pro mix, like a slow release pk source?
could it be the pro mix that make this method work?

The Promix that I use has no fertilizer charge to it.

 

[rüdiger]

N overfed til harvest. beautiful. im off.

 

[Homebrewer]

Homebrewer,
I read your whole thread with the serious 6 grow.

It seems to me that you grow for optical beautifulness.

I grow for optimum health because one will never experience the genetic potential of a strain with a leafless, deficient plant at harvest. Those leafless, deficient plants are likely the ones we all grew when we first started out in this hobby and I'm sure you'd agree that we all grow better herb these days as compared to back then.

in nature, cannabis is an annual and dies after her regenerative phase, the plant is genetical adapted to conditions where her growing media depletes of nutrients while she gains in bio mass. the re-gain to the soil is then done by her leftovers. also true for very long flowering tropical sativas near equator, just a slower cycle.

While it is true that the nutritional needs fade a bit towards harvest, by no means do those needs change in terms of elemental preference or cease to exist like 'flushing at harvest' would imply.

Imho this slow cutout of nutrient can be adapted to indoor.
when I now take a plant in this cycle and charge her with PK(and micros!), she will start to push flowers like crazy.
this is my experience, especially with sativa dominant strains.

rüdiger

We don't want to mimic anything from nature except the sun's spectrum and possibly the changing light cycles by experimenting indoors with schedules beyond 12/12 (possibly 11/13 or 10/14 etc). I grow other annuals outdoors and while I know the plant is taking up minerals for growth, it's not depleting the Earth to the point of deficiencies. If this 'slow cutout' of food existed naturally then this is obviously something we can improve upon indoors and outdoors to increase growth, not mimic. What I'm saying is that there is no 'slow cutout' of nutrients in nature in fertile soil and at no point do these plants change their elemental priorities. In terms of the 6 macro and secondary macro elements, nitrogen is always the most important at all stages of growth (sometimes potassium is first, usually for crops with watery fruits and veggies like tomatoes and lettuce), followed by potassium. Phosphorus ranks 4th behind calcium and ahead of magnesium and sulfur. This elemental preference is well documented by universities. I've done the side-by-sides, i've submitted reservoir samples to labs for analysis, these plants never need a lot of phosphorus.

But do what works best for you. I've got some Ace Panamas that are getting grown this summer and I'll likely start a journal. Feel free to follow along and say 'I told you so' at the end if the high N, low P combo gives less than desirable results .

 

[rüdiger]

'What I'm saying is that there is no 'slow cutout' of nutrients in nature in fertile soil'

i see many landraces that are adapted to very unfertile soil.
cannabis is no vegetable.

'We don't want to mimic anything from nature except the sun's spectrum and possibly the changing light cycles by experimenting indoors with schedules beyond 12/12 (possibly 11/13 or 10/14 etc)'

i suggest to open your mind.

let us quit the discussion here. thank you.

 

[Homebrewer]

'What I'm saying is that there is no 'slow cutout' of nutrients in nature in fertile soil'

i see many landraces that are adapted to very unfertile soil.
cannabis is no vegetable.

'We don't want to mimic anything from nature except the sun's spectrum and possibly the changing light cycles by experimenting indoors with schedules beyond 12/12 (possibly 11/13 or 10/14 etc)'

i suggest to open your mind.

let us quit the discussion here. thank you.

My mind is open to the idea that cannabis is not a special plant with special needs. My mind is open to the fact that mother nature is NOT consistent nor is she perfect. My mind is also open to the science behind plant nutrition which is the driving force behind optimal growth and I strive to create that nutritionally perfect day indoors 365 days/year.

Cheers .

 

[sweet-emotion]

This is my whispy pheno. Thin racemes of flowers that are starting to get heavy from resin and are bending under their burden. This girl is just over a meter.

I'll get some seeds from each plant as I let the eariest flowers be pollinated with a male gt.

Not a strong smelling plant until she's touched. I am struggling to describe the scent.

View Image

I wonder how this beauty would've turned out outdoors, she looks great

 

[paulo73]

Let´s not forget that like in all Human Pleasures (food, wine, tobacco) at the end of the day it all boils down to personal preferences. What is my perfect weed might be not the favourite weed of others.
And many thanks for the educated discussion, i think that this is the main purpose of forums.

 

[Elmer Bud]

G`day Home Brewer

I disagree with the same nutes being available at all times .
The wet season / dry season Summer / Winter soil temperature has an effect on availability . Plants need water to transport nutrients and temps effect microbes .Wet season / dry season . Vapor pressure / humidity will also effect transpiration and osmosis .

Rain fall stats for Santa Marta Colombia .

CLIMATE OF MALAWI
Malawi has a sub-tropical climate, which is relatively dry and strongly seasonal. The warm-wet season stretches from November to April, during which 95% of the annual precipitation takes place. Annual average rainfall varies from 725mm to 2,500mm with Lilongwe having an average of 900mm, Blantyre 1,127mm, Mzuzu 1,289mm and Zomba 1,433mm. Extreme conditions include the drought that occurred in 1991/92 season and floods of 1988/89 season. The low-lying areas such as Lower Shire Valley and some localities in Salima and Karonga are more vulnerable to floods than higher grounds.

A cool, dry winter season is evident from May to August with mean temperatures varying between 17 and 27 degrees Celsius, with temperatures falling between 4 and 10 degrees Celsius. In addition, frost may occur in isolated areas in June and July. A hot, dry season lasts from September to October with average temperatures varying between 25 and 37 degrees Celsius. Humidity ranges from 50% to 87% for the drier months of September/October and wetter months of January/February respectively.

Chiang Mai Yearly Weather Summary

Throughout the year the temperatures in Chiang Mai are often above or close to 30°C. The climate of Chiang Mai falls into three main seasons. From the end of October to February, it is the ‘cool season’. There is a sharp rise in temperature in March to May and there is plenty of sunny weather during this period. From June to late October, you can expect frequent rain and thunder showers.
Chiang Mai, The ‘culture capital’ of Thailand is wonderful city and popular all over the world as a stunning tourist destination. The climate in Chiang Mai is controlled by tropical monsoons and the weather is typically hot and humid throughout most of the time. Although the country remains hot most of the year, the weather in Thailand is divided into three distinct parts, hot season, cool season, and rainy season.
Cool Season
The season starts in November and prolongs its journey till February. It is the most preferable season to visit the city. As the Chiang Mai climate remains quite warm most of the year and genuinely “cool” weather only occurs in the northern mountains, tourists prefers the season to others. The cause behind such liking are varies, such as during this time the city witnesses little rainfall, temperature appears comfortable to visit the 700-year-old town and so on.
Hot Season
Starting from mid March the hot season in Chiang Mai lasts till late June. Higher relative temperature and infrequent rain are the general characteristic of this season. Consequently, it is considered less popular season for visitors to travel although in the coastal part of the city it remains nice temperature.
Rainy Season
The rainy season in Chiang Mai lasts from July to October. Heavy downpour dominates the weather most of the time. However, the weather appears sunny and suitable throughout the rainy season if a tourist can endure the heat and humidity, but during this season a flash-flood afternoon downpours can make the tour spoiled. During this time, Chiang Mai temperature climbs 25-26 °C to 33-34 °C.

Now that`s both sides of the Equator and a similar pattern . Wet Spring - Summer . Followed by dry cooler Winters .

That fits in with my up take of nutes in veg an less in early flower theory .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[Homebrewer]

G`day Home Brewer

I disagree with the same nutes being available at all times .
The wet season / dry season Summer / Winter soil temperature has an effect on availability . Plants need water to transport nutrients and temps effect microbes .Wet season / dry season . Vapor pressure / humidity will also effect transpiration and osmosis .

Elmer, my statement about the nutritional needs not varying in terms of elemental preference isn't anecdotal, that info comes from data released by the University of Florida. By all means though, do what works best for you.

 

[paulo73]

Again, thanks for all the education that goes on in here. I do love it!!!
What i do with it all?! Only matters to me
Couple of shots from the GT#1

I´ll bring her down on the next couple of days, my handscope says 20% amber, 60% milky and 20%clear and for the first time, it´s good enough for me.

 

[Cannabliss420]

shes askin to come down! some serious weight on that lone stalk

 

[bmking]

I don't want to be spammy, but any other suggestions regarding the phenotype of my plants: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6366544&postcount=381 ?

What is the expected flowering time of the thai-phenotype? I can provide new pictures if there is interest. They are finally flowering, but I think it takes 7 more weeks or so.

 

[paulo73]

No spam at all. Bring on those shots and i´m sure that more educated opinions will come.
Imho it leans more to the thai side of it and when comes to flowering time my guess is that it will be over 15weeks.
I would cut back N straight away. Which time schedule are you running?

 

[bmking]

Alright, I just made some fresh pictures. Be warned, it looks very messy!!

They are now slowly flowering more and more and looking at my previous pictures at least makes me glad because I can see the slow development of flowers. Today I could even feel that they are starting to produce resin. They showed their sex 8 weeks ago and have of course since been flowering... Still I am afraid something is wrong and they will never finish...

Any advice is appreciated. The first five pictures were made before removing some of the biggest leafs, but since there are so many it is impossible to see the difference. I spent 30 minutes on removing the leaves and bending the stems by the way.

I was thinking about topping all the shoots, but I am afraid this will just produce even more shoots and become even more untameable.

I was really hoping that they would soon stop growing, and they have a little, but nevertheless I need to bend and prune them every second day. You can see how close they are to the 250W light bulb. Fortunately I have a ventilater close to the bulb so that just a few shoots burn slightly.

I grow on coco with Canna Coco A+B, so unfortunately I can not influence the nitrogen feeded to them.

How many more weeks do you think to go? Do you think they can finish in 8 weeks? I dont want to start all over again and I am really curious about the finished product!

Are they really the thai-influenced phenotypes? And what is then expected from the high? A clear thai-high with little malawi influence?

 

[rüdiger]

hi,

i guess shes on 12/12 and coco ab is 5-4-3? what is a, what is b?
then this is the problem.

light her with 10/14! straight, no slow downcycling!
cut N out to a minimum, give her low dosed PK and see what happens!

and stop defoliating her from below, this forces only more 'upper' branching.