Golden Tiger

[bmking]

Hi all,,

my thanks go to dubio for this interesting genetics. I have a question regarding the genetics of my Golden Tigers. Maybe someone can tell me about if they are more thai or malawi influenced by looking at my pictures? I apologize for the picures, it is very crowded and they are not as beautiful as many others here.

They have been in VISIBLE flower for six weeks. I write visible because I actually switched to 12/12 after one week of germination, but it took three weeks for them to show the first signs of flowers.

I had some problems with the massive growth, but now since the flowers are slowly but surely starting to develop the growth has slowed down (thank god!).

I have a lot of patience and look forward to hear what you guys think Can I expect a crazy malawi high or more of an active and clear thai high?

 

[Cannabliss420]

im not a professional in this bmking, but it looks lik Thai leaning to me. anyone feel free to correct me if im wrong

 

[bmking]

Thanks cannabliss420. I think the same, the flowering takes a loooooooooooong time at least. I just wanted to be sure because if they were malawi leaning phenotypes then something must be wrong because of the extremely slow flowering.
But I would actually be happy to try something which is more thai dominant in the high

 

[paulo73]

Well done mate!

Well done mate!

G`day Dubi

3 Pheno harvested .
1 More extreme Sativa type to go . I had daily showers for about 3 weeks . But an Indian Summer . Temps between 14 and 25 . I let the plants run until 90 % of pistils were shrunken . A cpl of buds got rot .Nothin to cry about .

Made another generation of seeds and pollinated some of Sam`s OHaze / Sk .

Big ups to Paulo for spreading the love and the seeds .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

That´s good to know. I just hope the smoke ticks at least a few of your many boxes
I´m still in love with the GTs and another girl was brought in to the room a couple of weeks ago. Sorry for the lousy shot.

While GT#1 keeps doing her thing. I haven´t fed this girl for more than a month now, but she keeps "growing on".

The odd seed keeps popping on most fan leaves

Now it´s going to be fun to watch if the cuts taken keep this trait.

 

[Cannabliss420]

that is so interesting to see in the fan leaves

 

[Elmer Bud]

G`day Paulo

I suspect the GT like a lot of Sat types .
Draws up a lot of nutrients in veg and early flower . Then hardly feeds till late flower .

A saw the Haze Hombres in Holland growing Haze . They start out flower with an even mix of NPK . Then as flower continues the N is gradually lowered till mid flower . Then only PK . For about 3-4 weeks then water only for two weeks .

You have seen Dirk and Sammy`s grows ? yes ?
Now I realise they are doing hydro . But can we tune the soil to respond similarly ? Small doses of tea or nutes that get used up in a time frame ? Rather than a full spectrum that doesn`t deplete ?

That`ll keep you busy pondering for a while . he he .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[paulo73]

Happy Thursday guys.

Happy Thursday guys.

that is so interesting to see in the fan leaves

The interest always depends on the observer Life is always interesting but sometimes we´re too busy to get it.
Thanks for it.

G`day Paulo

I suspect the GT like a lot of Sat types .
Draws up a lot of nutrients in veg and early flower . Then hardly feeds till late flower .

A saw the Haze Hombres in Holland growing Haze . They start out flower with an even mix of NPK . Then as flower continues the N is gradually lowered till mid flower . Then only PK . For about 3-4 weeks then water only for two weeks .

You have seen Dirk and Sammy`s grows ? yes ?
Now I realise they are doing hydro . But can we tune the soil to respond similarly ? Small doses of tea or nutes that get used up in a time frame ? Rather than a full spectrum that doesn`t deplete ?

That`ll keep you busy pondering for a while . he he .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

Me thinks that you´re on the right track
As you might have noticed, this last year, i´ve neglected my research and studying hours and of course that you can see that on the way my new strains&techs perform. Knowledge is power and no knowledge can leave one powerless. But rest assured that with friends like you, and a few other for that effect, knowledge is never that far apart.
A couple of days ago i received a marvellous pm from a fellow grower with plenty of food for thought when comes to growing sativas indoors. Funny enough it was my first contact with this gentleman and out of the blue he took the time to empower me. Bless up my man!
What he stated goes quite right with what your saying and that is all the confirmation i need to try it out.
On my sativas i´ll try to feed them like this on this next run.
I´ll [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]try to schedule the sativas to controlled N cutout.
On a 12 weeker(only example):

week 1-4 NPK 2:4:4(only partial from 10, dosage varies),
week 5-8 1:4:5,
week 9-10 0:4:6,
week 11-12 flush like crazy

What are your thought on these?

I´ll also move my sativas away from the bulbs as the flowering progresses, to decrease light potency and emulate outdoors conditions... Is this stupid?!
[/FONT]

 

[Elmer Bud]

G`day Paulo

Sounds like the man has a plan .
My hypothesis wasn`t too long in the planning . It`s what the Hombres have been telling us for a few years ...

And yes I agree . The more Sat the less it likes Infra red radiation . The heat and the colour are not friendly . Again another educated guess . They didn`t see that colour light in their lands of origin .
I took note of the colour of the Summer sun in EU last year . I have also noted the colour of the light in the tropics at equinox . Lots more blue in the tropics .
I could spend all day in the sun in the EU . And hardly get sun burnt . A 15 min stint in the tropical sun and we have UV damage . To human skin . That`s the opposite end of the spectrum to infra red ? So ?

Maybe some blue CFL / PLL or MH ?

Chew on that . Rattle snake Paulie .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[paulo73]

Hello again.
We´re on the same page there, has most South European, i tend not to wast too much time on planning. I´m more of a hands on kind of guy.
I got a 125W Blue CFL hanging around somewhere, i might add it later on. But to be honest last night when light went on i was in trouble to get inside the room. Damn girls seem to want to hug me as soon as i get in. And a few were already laying down on the floor with their limbs stretched wide open...was that an invitation or what!?
But as soon as i harvest a couple of big ladies i´ll get my shit together.

 

[Elmer Bud]

G`day Paulo

Your a Latino bro .
You `re are ruled by passion . And thats the way it should be . If we were all dry witted Ozzies it`d get pretty dull I tell yah . lol .

Yep last I saw your garden it was lookin like an Iberian amazon . he he .

My guru tells me 2 HPS to 1 MH . But CFL or PLL do help . They make for closer nodes and better ripening is my exp . Less fox tails that don`t want to finish .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[rüdiger]

'Now I realise they are doing hydro . But can we tune the soil to respond similarly ? Small doses of tea or nutes that get used up in a time frame ? Rather than a full spectrum that doesn`t deplete ? '

YES, WE CAN

 

[Homebrewer]

Me thinks that you´re on the right track
As you might have noticed, this last year, i´ve neglected my research and studying hours and of course that you can see that on the way my new strains&techs perform. Knowledge is power and no knowledge can leave one powerless. But rest assured that with friends like you, and a few other for that effect, knowledge is never that far apart.
A couple of days ago i received a marvellous pm from a fellow grower with plenty of food for thought when comes to growing sativas indoors. Funny enough it was my first contact with this gentleman and out of the blue he took the time to empower me. Bless up my man!
What he stated goes quite right with what your saying and that is all the confirmation i need to try it out.
On my sativas i´ll try to feed them like this on this next run.
I´ll [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]try to schedule the sativas to controlled N cutout.
On a 12 weeker(only example):

week 1-4 NPK 2:4:4(only partial from 10, dosage varies),
week 5-8 1:4:5,
week 9-10 0:4:6,
week 11-12 flush like crazy

What are your thought on these?

I´ll also move my sativas away from the bulbs as the flowering progresses, to decrease light potency and emulate outdoors conditions... Is this stupid?!
[/FONT]

FWIW, I've found that a high nitrogen formula from start to finish works best, especially when it comes to longer flowering strains. For starters, higher doses of phosphorus induces stretch whereas higher N encourages branching. You'll not only get structurally superior plants with a high N, low P combo but they'll be MUCH healthier in the long run.

Just feed with restraint, keep your medium clean and these plants will know exactly what to do. Good luck!

 

[rüdiger]

Homebrewer,
high nitrogen formula from start to finish will give you a very green unpleasant smoke, especially with long flowering sativas.

when you contribute information towards a feeding schedule wich works for you, it would be nice to get some more information of exact NPK and ec. what is with K? do you flush at all?

for me, like this, your post adds confusion.

 

[Homebrewer]

Homebrewer,
high nitrogen formula from start to finish will give you a very green unpleasant smoke, especially with long flowering sativas.

If that's your experience then I'd examine your application rates and your curing process.

when you contribute information towards a feeding schedule wich works for you, it would be nice to get some more information of exact NPK and ec. what is with K?

for me, like this, your post adds confusion.

I prefer the 3-1-2 NPK ratio but a 3-1-3 or 2-1-3 or 2-1-2 or a 1-1-1 will work fine too. The take away is that P is not needed in large amounts, especially in relation to N. I hope this is now more clear.

do you flush at all?

Salts are leached from my medium every time I water.

 

[symbiote420]

I've been growing organically since '94 and the only problem I've found when feeding high nitro throughout growth lessens the density of the buds ....I've harvested green plants and the ash was as white as snow and burned super clean!

It's not really required to flush when growing with organics, that's really advo for people who "force feed" their plants.

 

[rüdiger]

symbiote420,
green is chlorophyll, i dont want it in my curing process and i dont sweat cure to get it out.
lesser flower density is not prefered when growing airy sativas

maybe you try organics that are not overamended with nitrogen rich or nitrogen producing sources. or are you in 'bottle organics' ?

Homebrewer,
as said i dont prefer to sweat cure my harvest to get a nice 'golden-brown', i try to cut N early. When the plant is ready she is 'pre cured', chlorophyll wise.

'I prefer the 3-1-2 NPK ratio but a 3-1-3 or 2-1-3 or 2-1-2 or a 1-1-1 will work fine too. The take away is that P is not needed in large amounts, especially in relation to N. I hope this is now more clear.'

thanks for exact explanation!

'Salts are leached from my medium every time I water.'

So you do dtw, hydro/coco? Or change between feeding and water only in soil? I want to try a schedule like this, i have never heard of this. about what are we talkin here?

rüdiger

 

[Homebrewer]

Homebrewer,
as said i dont prefer to sweat cure my harvest to get a nice 'golden-brown', i try to cut N early. When the plant is ready she is 'pre cured', chlorophyll wise.

'I prefer the 3-1-2 NPK ratio but a 3-1-3 or 2-1-3 or 2-1-2 or a 1-1-1 will work fine too. The take away is that P is not needed in large amounts, especially in relation to N. I hope this is now more clear.'

thanks for exact explanation!

'Salts are leached from my medium every time I water.'

So you do dtw, hydro/coco? Or change between feeding and water only in soil? I want to try a schedule like this, i have never heard of this. about what are we talkin here?

rüdiger

I only grow longer flowering sativas in promix with the 3-1-2 NPK ratio that I mentioned before. I feed lightly at every watering and water enough to get about 10-15% runoff. The goal is to keep that medium free of any buildup and to supply the minimum amount of mineral salts needed to support healthy growth. Sats don't like to be pushed and mine seemed to yellow up very quickly with any high P boosters or high P flowering formulas. Slow and steady seems to win the race with these beauties.

 

[Elmer Bud]

G`day Home Brewer

Appreciate your insights .

One detail . Not every one reading this lives in the US of A or has access to Pro Mix .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[Homebrewer]

G`day Home Brewer

Appreciate your insights .

One detail . Not every one reading this lives in the US of A or has access to Pro Mix .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

I grow hydroponically too so when I said that I only grow sats in promix, I just meant that I don't grow sats hydroponically. IME, the 'ideal NPK' balance is different for water-culture hydro as compared to peat-based container gardening. Any peat-based medium with desirable drainage and water retention properties should work great with the high N, low P combo that I like. Sorry for any confusion.

 

[paulo73]

Now in the midst of all these educated comments comes the childish question.
When thinking about smoke quality, to me that´s the main priority, is it better to yellowish fan leaves on late flowering(meaning that the energy is being depleted from the plant) or dark green ones (meaning that the plant keeps feeding herself on the nutes) ?
My experience tells me that the first option suits me needs/tastes better.
I end up with a very smooth herb straight after drying and because most fan leaves have fall down it´s easy peasy to trim.
Is this just plain stupidity or am i into something?

The educated tone of most comments make me feel like a 10yo visiting University.
Bless you all for keeping me on a humble path.