skunktoker
Member
I have always used dunks for many many years now It works great I also use the bits the bits work faster but the dunks are stronger so it seems after about 4-6 days no more gnats simple to use and works awesome......ST
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TexasToker
Member
Awesome find Lola, whodathunk? Thanks, I can get rid of the buggers without so much effort!
Gardeners put a one inch chunk of potato on the compost to check for larvae. just like lifting a stone in your garden, if it's damp under the potato larvae will come to the surface. if you see no sign of life then you can say your soil is pretty clean.
i add gnatrol wdg to my res/watering can whenever i introduce new media into my garden with the exception of hydroton and rockwool minicubes... coco/dirt/etc all get watered with it the first time they get watered to help kill any eggs along for the ride; i follow up the second and third waterings with gnatrol as well... this is enough to kill em
for seedlings i pasteurize my coco in a 5gal bucket with boiling water poured over a good amount tied up in a paint strainer bag left to sit for 90 minutes. this sterilizes the medium; nothing is alive inside it; i only do this with coco as there is no bioherd to worry about out of the bag... nothing worse than gnat larva crawling around a 20 dollar seedling
for seedlings i pasteurize my coco in a 5gal bucket with boiling water poured over a good amount tied up in a paint strainer bag left to sit for 90 minutes. this sterilizes the medium; nothing is alive inside it; i only do this with coco as there is no bioherd to worry about out of the bag... nothing worse than gnat larva crawling around a 20 dollar seedling
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LolaGal
Thanks Ya'll!!! Glad to help. I just could not find any information on the subject when I was researching it.
This product was not intended for fungus gnats, but works great! It makes sense, since Gnatrol is the the same product, different form, and harder to use.
Just got a catalog from Planet Natural... hahaha they think I will give them more money for their dead useless predator mites.. no way.. hahaha
This product was not intended for fungus gnats, but works great! It makes sense, since Gnatrol is the the same product, different form, and harder to use.
Just got a catalog from Planet Natural... hahaha they think I will give them more money for their dead useless predator mites.. no way.. hahaha
fishwater
Member
What about crushing up about ten dunks, and adding it to my LC's mix while it is "cooking"? Should work shouldnt it? The bacteria in the dunks wont harm the micro herd that is establishing itself could it??
I all ready have the little bastards everywhere... came with the MG I used last time. Now I have some Fox Farm or Black Gold EWC that have added some other crawlies to my seedlings all ready.....
I all ready have the little bastards everywhere... came with the MG I used last time. Now I have some Fox Farm or Black Gold EWC that have added some other crawlies to my seedlings all ready.....
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LolaGal
1/4 tsp ontop of a pot of soil is enough!
One dunk treats like a whole olympic sized swimming pool for mosquitoes... for like 3 months if I remember the directions...
don't get carried away!
justintime420
Active member
thanks for the info def gonna be useful
OMountainMix
Member
I'm getting some of these from the hardware store tnoight or tomorrow. I have a lot of individual bucket systems, how much should I put in each reservoir?
Tylor Durden
Member
+1 dunks work against mosquitoes in fish ponds and old tires like a flamethrower, not sure how they will work as described however. I used them in low lying areas of my property where water would tend to sit for a couple of weeks during the rainy season, also in the rain barrels I used when I did most of my gardening outdoors. Since they breed the bacteria, I might try some in a watering can and then watering newly placed soil with it for a few days, covering the pots up with saran wrap till the bacteria can do it's job.
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LolaGal
Anybody with hydro experience using dunks, feel free to holler.
I don't think a whole dunk would be necessary Mtn. I would just break off 1/4 of a dunk and float it in the rez. It should drip down on the hydroton and do the same thing as in soil.
Like I said, these rascals are made for putting in a pond to keep mosquitoes away for the whole summer. So how much water in a pond? 10,000 gallons? It says on the back that they treat an unimaginable amount of water.
It don't take a lot of dunk to treat soil, no hydro experience here.
I am afraid a water leak would ruin my ceilings. so no hydro for me where I am growing in the attic.
I don't think a whole dunk would be necessary Mtn. I would just break off 1/4 of a dunk and float it in the rez. It should drip down on the hydroton and do the same thing as in soil.
Like I said, these rascals are made for putting in a pond to keep mosquitoes away for the whole summer. So how much water in a pond? 10,000 gallons? It says on the back that they treat an unimaginable amount of water.
It don't take a lot of dunk to treat soil, no hydro experience here.
I am afraid a water leak would ruin my ceilings. so no hydro for me where I am growing in the attic.
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LolaGal
Dunks are designed to dry out and it does not hurt them.
It is not necessary to add to watering can. Just sprinkle on top of soil and when you water, it activates the dunks.
Then next time you water, the dunks activate again. For 3 months.
Then you gotta add another sprinkle.
Adding Dunk Bits to water is messy. It clogs up watering cans and sticks to the sides. I already tried it that way first in my experiments in fighting the Dreaded Fugus Gnats.
take my advice just sprinkle on top of soil or put it in a mesh bag in a resevoir to keep it from getting all over and clogging lines.
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LolaGal
good tip Dr. Dank! 10 bucks a quart is mighty cheap. I will check it out. thanks.
OMountainMix
Member
I was figuring to break them up into small pieces. I"ll hit a hardware store with my hubby this weekend and see what the possibilities are. He is very educated about all these things, but I often have a different perspective and other friends of ours tend to add ideas or better ways of going about things in, too. That's what I love about icmag is reading what's going on with other people, getting to ask my own questions and seeing all the discussion and getting ideas. It's a lot of fun and frankly reduces my anxiety about doing the best that I can . . .
Ha - I just made up a batch of LC#2/w blood meal etc. and was sitting in the garage thinking the same thing. What I ended up doing is just crumbling up a dunk and sprinkling it on top of the finished batch in each 20 gal tub. I'll probably do it again each time I rotate and mix the soil over the next few weeks. And then again after I transplant. But after planting, I'll use a fresh batch of dunks.
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SexInTheCity
FUCK....I just checked this re-veg plant and seen alittle worm on the leaf...and I check my veg cab and theres tiny white worms everywhere in the soil.....I'm going to cry if this spills into my other cab....hopefully these dunks will work and the other measures for the flyers just incase they spawn....fuck fuck fuck thanks for the info though Lola!
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SexInTheCity
Will these dunks kill everything in the soil? It seems I have another sub-species http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=159960 as in this thread...tank beetles or whatever....eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep scary stuff
