G13xHashplant Yellowing Out...

[Infected361]

I have a G13xHashplant at day 45 of flower that is starting to yellow out pretty bad and it looks like its got about three weeks left on it yet. I know it's a nitrogen deficeny because it is in flowering and all that but the yellowing is bit much for my liking and i think the major leaves will fall and die before they really should.

This is my first grow and don't know everything yet so I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions as to how I could curb the yellowing till i started the flush.

I'm using ffof with 30% perlite the fox farms grow big (in veg), tiger bloom at half strength (2tsp), and big bloom at 2tbls. I also add 1 tbls molasses and have also started using the cha-ching soluble from the trio pack every other watering ( btw.. looking very frosty! and it smells like shit!). And 1 tsp cal mag every once in a while. PH is 6 - 6.5. I have also read that ffof loses N fast in flowering. OH 600W HPS...

That is what I have to work with and would consider buying something to help out but would prefer not too. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[Guest423]

are you sure it has that long left to go? i grew G13 x hashplant and hashplant and they were done between 55-60 days....mine yellowed up big time the last 10-14 days or so.

 

[Infected361]

Well it looks like it's got quite a bit of fattening up to do. It's got a couple 9-12 inch colas that need to fill in a lot more I think. BUT i am a noob when it comes to this so I guess i dont really know.

I just think that with how yellow it is now if the leaves fall off i dont know how its going to make enough energy to fill in those buds. I'm thinking about posting pics but am a lil paranoid in doing so. I just figure that i give it a pretty good amount of nutes so far that I dont know how it could be yellowing out so gnarly like.

Anyone else grown this out and have their opinions?

 

[Guest]

I recommend just leaving them and letting them do their thing.

I also would NOT recommend adding nitrogen as too much nitrogen during the flowering period can actually revert the plant back to veg and delay flowering.


just go with the flow bro. It takes a few flowering cycles before a grower really perfects the process with a certain strain.

peace

 

[Infected361]

thanks for the input virtuoso

I have also read that too much N during flowering will severly stunt the flowering cycle.

Good thing I haven't jumped the gun and added anything to the mix.

Nice to get so many replies!

If anyone else has any input Please feel free!

 

[Herbalistic]

Hellou!!!

It is normal for Mr.Nice to start yellowing at the last two/three weeks of flowering and should be treated by doing nothing, so dont add nitrogen as this will only delay the flowering time!

Here is a good tip if you don't want to smoke something that put you to sleep after 45 min of smoking. Harvest your Mr.Nice buds when half of the trichomes are clear and the other half are blur. This should give you an herb that goes to your head and body, not just to your body.

Everybody does their herb like they want but you should at least consider this with one or two plants, so the whole crop wont be straight couchlock, plus you know next time how do you prefer your herb!!! This was just a tip for you if you haven't growed or smoked Mr.Nice before, not an absolut truth!!! Just like I said before people are fancy to different kind of highs and what works for me, may not work for you!!! (Oh really )

Anyway, enjoy your Mr.Nice herb, it is one of my favorite indicas!

Keep It Green & Growin But Don´t Forget The Smokin!
Peace Out Growers!

 

[sproutco]

1 teaspoon cal mag every once in a while is very little. This is only 15 ppm magnesium. Sure you don't have magnesium problems rather than nitrogen?

 

[Infected361]

Herbalistic - Thanks for the reply mang. I'm thinking I'll be harvesting this girl when the trichs are mostly cloudy and a few amber because to be honest I want this Indy to knock my shit out!

I have some sativas in flower that will take care of my head stash. (c99xpanama red , and some jack flash ) haha thanks for the input, can't wait for the Mr. Nice!!!

Sproutco - So far I dont see any signs of mag problems. I do also add epsom salts every once in a while which may have curbed any problem. But 15ppm is very low and does not sound healthy.

So i think i may start adding 2 tsp cal-mag every feeding instead of every once in a while. What do you think?, sound good?

Thanks for the help sprout, advice from a veteran grower makes me happy!!

 

[sproutco]

Less guessing

Less guessing

You want a ratio of about 4 parts potassium to 2 parts calcium to 1 part magnesium. If you get too far away from this, you will get a deficiency. Example: you got 50 ppm magnesium...you would also have 100 calcium and 200 potassium.

Located in my signature below is a link for a ppm calculator. Enter net weight of the bottle, total ml, ml your using per gallon, and % of each element like 3% magnesium. It will give you your answer in ppms of each element. If you don't know the type of nitrogen but have a total %, enter it once into either nitrate, urea, or ammonia but only enter it once. The answer comes out the same. Here is an example. Click on it to make it larger. Put cursor in bottom right corner when larger to make even bigger and clearer.



You may find this info on the bottle. If k2o multiply by .83 and if p2o5 multiply by .43 to get true p and k. The calculator does this for you.

Now that you got your numbers in ppms, you can make good judgements about adding things. You should be applying 100-200 ppm nitrogen for normal size plants. 150 ppm n is usually plenty. 75 ppm starting out on seedlings. 100 ppm nitrogen is plenty to keep foliage green in flower. Of course the ferts have more than just n.

Since your using soil/soilless with dolomite lime or oyster shells,etc...which supplies calcium and magnesium, you would reduce the calcium and magnesium in the water. You may not need any cal mag just after repotting, but as the soil gets watered many times the lime or whatever gets washed from the soil. You might then have to start applying more cal mag closer to the 4:2:1 ratio potassium to calcium to magnesium in your water. Even with dolomite lime in the soil, I like to apply 30 magnesium and 60 calcium every third watering if none in the regular ferts. This works out to be about 2 teaspoons cal mag plus per gallon of water. 1/4 teaspoon of both epsom salts and powdered gypsum per gallon also works well and includes valuable sulfur.

 

[20kw dreams]

I absolutely spray N defs in flower, and it does great things. Your not going to delay flowering unless you have ALOT of N in your plants, like solids dark green and glossy all the way through. I've talked with alot of people about N in flower, and anyone who has tryed chucking them up into flower gets better results then when they let them yellow out. The ticket is really to try and time the N def for like 3 days to a week before harvest. The down side to heavy N though is a longer cure time, as it'll make your herb initially grassy flavored.

I suggest foliar feeding them with a dilute urea. There is no way you are going to get them enough N to delay flowering or such. It is hard to grally green them back up much, but you can delay continued yellowing.

Nitrogen is essential in the production of chlorophyl, hence the yellowing. Chlorophyll is necessary for photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is necessary for the plant to produce energy. Energy is required for proper growth. When you get an N def at any point in time during flowering, even the end, you are slowing growth. Once your buds start to yellow, you have pretty much stopped growth. At this point your buds are only maturing, not growing.

Herb will finish faster without N, but will not finish slower with N, unless you have extreme N reserves.

Sproutco - where do you get your K:Ca:Mg ratios at? Soil science says the proper Ca:Mg ratio is 8-12:1. This would be in soil, however. Is in different in hydro or soilless media? I know hydro/soilless nutrients have a lower Ca:Mg ration, but 2:1? This ratio has nothing to do with plant uptake, but the precipitation of both as CaMg carbonate if the ration is too low, or am I mistaken? And where do people get this K:Ca ratio at? This doesn't exist outside of pot websites that I have been able to find. K is an extremely mobil ion, and Ca and Mg are both cations, so they are not competing for space on colloids, so what's the deal?

Just figured I'd ask if you do know any of this stuff. I am wondering wether this information, which seems so prevelent on ICMag, is either
A) True in the first place
B) Is a result of soilless media
or C) A result of the crop being grown

 

[sproutco]

Sproutco - where do you get your K:Ca:Mg ratios at? Soil science says the proper Ca:Mg ratio is 8-12:1. This would be in soil, however. Is in different in hydro or soilless media? I know hydro/soilless nutrients have a lower Ca:Mg ration, but 2:1? This ratio has nothing to do with plant uptake, but the precipitation of both as CaMg carbonate if the ration is too low, or am I mistaken? And where do people get this K:Ca ratio at? This doesn't exist outside of pot websites that I have been able to find. K is an extremely mobil ion, and Ca and Mg are both cations, so they are not competing for space on colloids, so what's the deal?

Just figured I'd ask if you do know any of this stuff. I am wondering wether this information, which seems so prevelent on ICMag, is either
A) True in the first place
B) Is a result of soilless media
or C) A result of the crop being grown

You want 2:1 calcium to magnesium in the plant. Sometimes calcium uptake is slow due to things like drought and reduced water flow into the plant. Blossom end rot in tomatoes is an excellent example of this. So growers may increase calcium to magnesium to 3-4:1. 4:2:1 is not a fact but rather a guide. I have seen this being used for plugs (seedling trays), bedding plants like geraniums (actually a perlagonium.), and poinsettia (Euphorbia). You should research the % of the elements in normal plant tissue. You will see these ratios. I found this article by North Carolina State University on growing Geraniums. It mentions using this ratio:

Potassium (K): Potassium is involved as a metabolism catalyst, for stomata function, and disease resistance. Deficiency symptoms appear as necrosis of lower leaf margins and plants develop weak stems and stalks. Excess levels of K can reduce the uptake of Ca, Mg, Mn, NH4-N, and Zn. K should be applied at the rate of 150 to 250 ppm. To insure that K does not interfere with Ca and Mg uptake, a K:Ca:Mg fertilizer ratio of 4:2:1 should be used (similar to poinsettias). Excellent sources for K are potassium nitrate, 20-10-20, or 15-5-25. Remember when calculating K fertilization rates, the numbers on the fertilizer bag are expressed as a percent of K2O. Therefore multiply the bag number by 0.83 for the percentage of K.

Calcium (Ca): Calcium is a major constituent of cell walls. Deficiency symptoms are expressed as death (blackening) of growing points of terminal buds and roots. Ca is a non-mobile element and uptake is by the root tips. Excess levels of Ca can reduce the uptake of K, Mg, and B. A fertilization rate of 50 to 100 ppm Ca should be used, remembering to maintain the K:Ca:Mg fertilizer ratio of 4:2:1. Ca can be supplied from your irrigation water (if adequate levels exist), dolomitic limestone, or calcium nitrate. Remember that Ca uptake into the plant and transportation within the plant is through the water flow, so promoting good root growth so water uptake can occur and good shoot growth that aids in transpiration will assist in Ca uptake.

Magnesium (Mg): Magnesium is an important element in the chlorophyll molecule and in enzyme activation. Deficiency symptoms appear as interveinal chlorosis of older leaves and the leaves may have an upward curl. Excess levels of Mg can reduce the uptake of Ca. Mg fertilization rates of 25 to 50 ppm should be adequate, remembering to maintain the K:Ca:Mg fertilizer ratio of 4:2:1. Sources of Mg are dolomitic limestone, Mg in water supply (if adequate levels exist), and magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts). To correct a Mg deficiency, magnesium sulfate can be mix at the rate of 1 lb in 100 gal of water (works out to be 1 teaspoon epsom per gallon ) and applied as a drench. Do not mix magnesium sulfate with other fertilizers. To prevent Mg deficiency, magnesium sulfate can be applied monthly.

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-504.html

Here is some average plants. You can see the k, ca, and mag.

Table 1. Elemental ranges for uppermost mature leaves of woody ornamentals.

Element
Percent*

Nitrogen
2.0 - 2.5

Phosphorus
0.2 - 0.4

Potassium
1.5 - 2.0

Calcium
0.5 - 1.0

Magnesium
0.3 - 0.8


Parts Per Million

Iron
100 - 200

Manganese
50 - 100

Zinc
20 - 75

Copper
5 - 10

Boron
20 - 30

Molybdenum
0.1 - 1.0

* Percent of leaf dry weight

http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/CN001

Its nice to be high.

 

[Infected361]

Wow Sprout, nice informative post! Lots of good stuff.

That ppm calculator is very neat and is going to help me out a bunch with my feeding. Wtih all this help i should be able to keep my nutes at the proper levels, while also aoviding the burn i like i did once already ..eeek..

Thanks for everyones help so far, helping me tune in my growing skillz. Hopefully ill be seeing some improvements and some more bud growth!

Any other suggestions, go right ahead...