is there an organic solution for this? I have what seem to be little fruit flys flying around my plants mostly in the evening. Will they harm the buds? I am in week 6 of 8 week flower and have seen many posts for chemical solutions but???? I read something about sand on top of the soil?
-
ICMag with help from Phlizon, Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest for Christmas! You can check it here. Prizes are: full spectrum led light, seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
fungus Knats
- Thread starter Dan42nepa
- Start date
G
Guest
yea I've heard that sand works, they can't lay eggs in the stuff it's to course for them, do it inbetween waterings I've heard that it gets messy.
here is some info I stole from the net last time I had an issue with them:
and that trap shown at the bottom there, this works really well, I use apple cores, when they start to ferment, the trap is stuffed full of them.
Considering that you are well into flower, I doubt you can rid yourself of them completely until you're done, these homemade traps will capture most of the adults anyway.
......................................................................................................
Once a structure is infested with fruit flies, all potential breeding areas must be located and eliminated. Unless the breeding sites are removed or cleaned, the problem will continue no matter how often insecticides are applied to control the adults. Finding the source(s) of attraction and breeding can be very challenging and often will require much thought and persistence. Potential breeding sites which are inaccessible (e.g., garbage disposals and drains) can be inspected by taping a clear plastic food storage bag over the opening overnight. If flies are breeding in these areas, the adults will emerge and be caught in the bag.
After the source of attraction and breeding is eliminated, a pyrethrum-based, aerosol insecticide may be used to kill any remaining adult flies in the area.
A better approach, however, is to construct a trap by placing a paper funnel (rolled from a sheet of notebook paper) into a jar which is then baited with a few ounces of cider vinegar. Place the jar trap(s) wherever fruit flies are seen. This simple but effective trap will soon catch any remaining adult flies which can then be killed or released outdoors.
here is some info I stole from the net last time I had an issue with them:
and that trap shown at the bottom there, this works really well, I use apple cores, when they start to ferment, the trap is stuffed full of them.
Considering that you are well into flower, I doubt you can rid yourself of them completely until you're done, these homemade traps will capture most of the adults anyway.
......................................................................................................
Once a structure is infested with fruit flies, all potential breeding areas must be located and eliminated. Unless the breeding sites are removed or cleaned, the problem will continue no matter how often insecticides are applied to control the adults. Finding the source(s) of attraction and breeding can be very challenging and often will require much thought and persistence. Potential breeding sites which are inaccessible (e.g., garbage disposals and drains) can be inspected by taping a clear plastic food storage bag over the opening overnight. If flies are breeding in these areas, the adults will emerge and be caught in the bag.
After the source of attraction and breeding is eliminated, a pyrethrum-based, aerosol insecticide may be used to kill any remaining adult flies in the area.
A better approach, however, is to construct a trap by placing a paper funnel (rolled from a sheet of notebook paper) into a jar which is then baited with a few ounces of cider vinegar. Place the jar trap(s) wherever fruit flies are seen. This simple but effective trap will soon catch any remaining adult flies which can then be killed or released outdoors.
J
JackTheGrower
Yellow Sticky Traps my friend...
I lay shrimp meal and I gets them...
Another trick is to turn on the lights outside the room and then turn off the grow light.
They will for the most part leave the dark.
Again my best friend is yellow sticky traps.
I lay shrimp meal and I gets them...
Another trick is to turn on the lights outside the room and then turn off the grow light.
They will for the most part leave the dark.
Again my best friend is yellow sticky traps.
G
Guest
I've tried beer
bananas
ketchup
I'm tellin ya man, apple cores, eat a few apples and make some of those traps, I just use construction paper and scotch tape.
Beer is already fermented, they love fruit that is in the process of fermenting/rotting, you will get hundreds not just a few.
bananas
ketchup
I'm tellin ya man, apple cores, eat a few apples and make some of those traps, I just use construction paper and scotch tape.
Beer is already fermented, they love fruit that is in the process of fermenting/rotting, you will get hundreds not just a few.
Gnatrol...Neem Sticky Traps...No Pest Strips...
Gnatrol...Neem Sticky Traps...No Pest Strips...
Gnatrol:
"Gnatrol is a strain of Bacillus thuringiensis v. israelensis (BT's) that specifically controls the larva of fungus gnats and helps break the reproductive cycle to get rid of them! BT's are a biological pesticide that contain naturally occurring bacteria in different strains that target specific insects. BT's are not known to be toxic to animals, birds, humans, fish or beneficial insects. They do not persist in or contaminate the environment in any way. Gnatrol is required to have EPA warning and caution labels as is the requirement by law for ANY registered pesticide- whether they are considered acceptable for organic use, environmentally friendly or not.
Use as a foliar spray, growing medium or soil drench, or in you nutrient solution.
Dilution Rate: 1-2 tsp/Gallon"
>>>watch your pH with the Gnatrol...mine skyrocketed last time i used it.
>>the gnats themselves only live to reproduce...its the larvae (in the soil) that harms the plants' roots...
break the life cycle with Neem Oil, sticky traps, etc...
they are a pain in the ass...good luck.
Gnatrol...Neem Sticky Traps...No Pest Strips...
Gnatrol:
"Gnatrol is a strain of Bacillus thuringiensis v. israelensis (BT's) that specifically controls the larva of fungus gnats and helps break the reproductive cycle to get rid of them! BT's are a biological pesticide that contain naturally occurring bacteria in different strains that target specific insects. BT's are not known to be toxic to animals, birds, humans, fish or beneficial insects. They do not persist in or contaminate the environment in any way. Gnatrol is required to have EPA warning and caution labels as is the requirement by law for ANY registered pesticide- whether they are considered acceptable for organic use, environmentally friendly or not.
Use as a foliar spray, growing medium or soil drench, or in you nutrient solution.
Dilution Rate: 1-2 tsp/Gallon"
>>>watch your pH with the Gnatrol...mine skyrocketed last time i used it.
>>the gnats themselves only live to reproduce...its the larvae (in the soil) that harms the plants' roots...
break the life cycle with Neem Oil, sticky traps, etc...
they are a pain in the ass...good luck.
G
Guest
I used Gnatrol the other day as a drench at 4 tsp per gal. put out some yellow sticky traps and things are looking much better.
If you plan on using Gnatrol it's best used in RO water or let your tap water sit overnight before adding the Gnatrol as the chlorine in tap water may neutralize it and make it less effective.
If you plan on using Gnatrol it's best used in RO water or let your tap water sit overnight before adding the Gnatrol as the chlorine in tap water may neutralize it and make it less effective.
